OBD2 code P219A (Please point me in the right direction)

[mk_not_a_robot]

The good news is that you should be able to get those parts used pretty cheap and get what you need to back to stock... Again, best of luck to you man!

Thanks!

Ill be sure to replace that EVAP valve, and also Ill replace the PCV as well.
Those are super cheap, so I'm going to replace those asap(After looking at the legal stuff again).

I might have more questions concerning those two things.

Other than that I think I got to play it out and see what happens.

In the mean time thanks to everyone for all the help.

 

[danbfree]

Thanks!

Ill be sure to replace that EVAP value, and also Ill replace the PCV as well.
Those are super cheap, so I'm going to replace those asap(After looking at the legal stuff again).

I might have more questions concerning those two things.

Other than that I think I got to play it out and see what happens.

In the mean time thanks to everyone for all the help.

Sounds like a plan, if anything comes up just ask here and we'll try to help out!

 

[dmb]

Right, I get what you're saying. This is the reason why I ordered that Cat, and was thinking about the ECU and air intake.

Because the removed cat, and the modded ECU, this has a real chance of voiding that warranty.
If it didn't I would have just brought it into a ford dealership and told them to fix it.

This is also the reason why I sent it to a independent mechanic to do a diagnostic.
I didn't want to send it back for a diagnostic ( to the non-ford dealership I bought it from) for several reasons.


Truth is, Since I didn't do my due diligence, I'm aware that I'm drawing the short straw on this one.
The two dudes who sold it to me deserve a baseball bat to the shins, but legally I'm not on the best footing.

I'm going to take a second look at my legal options like I mentioned anyways.

Also, it seems like the engine is developing lifter tick as well.
If the legal angle fails, getting it back into a "warranty" condition is my best bet to avoid paying thousands more if that ticking gets worse.

So yeah, that's my motivation to buy more parts.

these engines don't have lifters so be careful being timid because time is not on your side this time. Good Luck Bro, Dennis

 

[XR650R]

Also, it seems like the engine is developing lifter tick as well.

Hi! I told you to come here for advice, and you did. Good.

The other site is good if you want to buy stuff, but this is where people will actually help you out.

The stock FiST has a "ticky" sound, with the hood open. It's normal. As dmb already said, it doesn't have lifters. That's just due to the direct injection. Nothing to worry about.

 

[mk_not_a_robot]

these engines don't have lifters so be careful being timid because time is not on your side this time. Good Luck Bro, Dennis

I looked into the legal angle once again, and went to the BBB.

According to them, since the paper states no warranty, and sold as is. And since they state on the inspection report that the cat is missing, and the ECM is modified, there isn't much of a complaint that I can make.

I don't have a problem with confrontation, but Im not going to waste time knowing that I've already lost that option.


I've ordered the parts I need, and I've found that when I drive the car without giving it too much gas the light doesn't come on.
I've been doing that for a week now.


Still. When the parts come in Ill put them on, and then send the car in.

 

[mk_not_a_robot]

Hi! I told you to come here for advice, and you did. Good.

The other site is good if you want to buy stuff, but this is where people will actually help you out.

The stock FiST has a "ticky" sound, with the hood open. It's normal. As dmb already said, it doesn't have lifters. That's just due to the direct injection. Nothing to worry about.

Yeah, good advice to come here. But I beat you to it by a week or so

For the ticking sound:
What about from inside the cabin? I can hear it intermittently while its idling, and it matches the rpm as well.
It doesn't get louder when I step on the gas.

It isn't loud, but if the radio is off, and windows closed you can hear it.
The closest sound to it would be like a fishing rod being reeled in, but quieter (unless you put your head near the valve train) and not very resonant or hollow sounding.

It would be great if that is just the injectors.
Could be, never owned a car with DI before.


Also, even if the car doesn't have lifters, it does have valves, which is what I mean.

 

[mk_not_a_robot]

Okay, I think you might be right XR650R,

this is a link to a video and the guys car sounds VERY similar to mine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UY8lmFZihas

Mine on cold start is very noticeable. Once the engine is warm, and I've driven down the highway for a bit, its quiet but still there.

So that's promising.

 

[mk_not_a_robot]

So I put in the new cat, and the two new oxygen sensors.

Check engine light is gone.

I decided to put those in before the PCV and EVAP purge valve, because the cat is definitely the bigger job.

So they aren't in the car, and I'm going to return them.

I checked all intake hoses, and the exhaust again, tightened things up, and it runs smooth and responsively.

I drove the car hard over the past several days, and despite the bad road conditions, managed to hit a new top speed of ... <legal and safe speed> (On a clean deserted straight away).
No surprise to any of you I'm sure, the car had more, I just ran out of clear road.

Turns out the downstream O2 sensor was damaged, and the inner housing of the element was completely broken off.
Also, it was packed full of carbon.
The sensor did not give any readings what so ever.
How the lazy / crooked dicks at the dealership missed that I only have one idea: They didn't check.

So, that's that. Appreciate the advice, even though I wound up not using most of it in the end.

In other news, the 3 bolts that attach the cat to the turbo housing are a massive pain in the F%^king ass.
I had to shove my arm up in between the firewall, and around to get that last one.

Then again I could have fully removed the air intake hoses above the thing, but whatever.

Happy driving!

 

[danbfree]

So I put in the new cat, and the two new oxygen sensors.

Check engine light is gone.

I decided to put those in before the PCV and EVAP purge valve, because the cat is definitely the bigger job.

So they aren't in the car, and I'm going to return them.

I checked all intake hoses, and the exhaust again, tightened things up, and it runs smooth and responsively.

I drove the car hard over the past several days, and despite the bad road conditions, managed to hit a new top speed of ... <legal and safe speed> (On a clean deserted straight away).
No surprise to any of you I'm sure, the car had more, I just ran out of clear road.

Turns out the downstream O2 sensor was damaged, and the inner housing of the element was completely broken off.
Also, it was packed full of carbon.
The sensor did not give any readings what so ever.
How the lazy / crooked dicks at the dealership missed that I only have one idea: They didn't check.

So, that's that. Appreciate the advice, even though I wound up not using most of it in the end.

In other news, the 3 bolts that attach the cat to the turbo housing are a massive pain in the F%^king ass.
I had to shove my arm up in between the firewall, and around to get that last one.

Then again I could have fully removed the air intake hoses above the thing, but whatever.

Happy driving!

Glad to hear it all worked out! Yes, taking off the wipers, cowl and crossover definitely would have got you more room, I just upgraded the crossover, turbo inlet and full recirc (quiet but stronger) DV/BOV and yes, it was a ton of work that I'm glad is done... So just the sensors and cat did the trick, that's good to hear... Now just keep running premium in it until when/if you decide to address the tune, if you bring it in without a stock tune they may void you on the spot but sounds like you just may be in a good spot now!

 

[LaserWhisperer]

Yeah, good advice to come here. But I beat you to it by a week or so

For the ticking sound:
What about from inside the cabin? I can hear it intermittently while its idling, and it matches the rpm as well.
It doesn't get louder when I step on the gas.

It isn't loud, but if the radio is off, and windows closed you can hear it.
The closest sound to it would be like a fishing rod being reeled in, but quieter (unless you put your head near the valve train) and not very resonant or hollow sounding.

It would be great if that is just the injectors.
Could be, never owned a car with DI before.


Also, even if the car doesn't have lifters, it does have valves, which is what I mean.

Did your "fishing rod being reeled in" sound go away, too?

 

[mk_not_a_robot]

I have bought a used ECM of the internet, apparently it's stock.
My plan is to have that checked out, and install it once I know that it is good to go.
And Ill keep the current ECM as well.... for various reasons.



The fishing reel sound has not gone away.
After taking more time to listen and hone in on the location of the sound, I found that it is coming from behind the 2nd cylinder from the right (If you're facing the engine).

Looking online, I found that the device making the sound is actually the high pressure fuel pump.
Some say the sound is normal, others say if it's really loud it might mean its worn down / damaged.

Ill find out after I put the ECM in.

 

[LaserWhisperer]

Mine has about 65k on the clock, and recently also started to make the fishing reel sound (not the DI sound, I'm used to this from DI 3.6Ls in Cadillacs )
ZERO performance degradation, however. I have a HPFP cam bucket ready to install, I've just been lazy / busy / it's cold out / I don't wanna

 

[mk_not_a_robot]

Mine has about 65k on the clock, and recently also started to make the fishing reel sound (not the DI sound, I'm used to this from DI 3.6Ls in Cadillacs )
ZERO performance degradation, however. I have a HPFP cam bucket ready to install, I've just been lazy / busy / it's cold out / I don't wanna

Yeah I might look into that. a good amount of the time its actually not very loud at all. But it is more noticeable when I start it up cold.

The next thing I'm going to do to my ST is get rid of that Sound symposer thing.

Looks like there is a long thread about that, Ill be taking a look.

 

[danbfree]

Yeah I might look into that. a good amount of the time its actually not very loud at all. But it is more noticeable when I start it up cold.

The next thing I'm going to do to my ST is get rid of that Sound symposer thing.

Looks like there is a long thread about that, Ill be taking a look.

Just be sure to add a little sound somehow like at least a muffler swap so you can hear what's going on.... I did my delete a few days before I got mine into the muffler shop to have the muffler swapped over to a glasspack the car was just too eerily quiet and found myself driving too fast missing on getting that sound feedback!

 

[Hardline]

After research on the ECU programming, the P219A code was most likely set due to the cat delete. Part of the test algorithm measures the delay of an intentional afr disturbance between the pre and post cat o2 sensors. With a cat installed and no issues with air and fuel delivery, the cat's oxygen absorbing capacity should prevent that disturbance from affecting the rear o2 sensor voltage very much. With a fuel delivery issue(or no cat installed) the sensor will show more voltage change, and will set this code along with a P0420 code.

 

[mk_not_a_robot]

I definitely believe you. I did put in a cat. Unfortunately since I was kind of anxious, I grabbed a OEM cat.

If you read through this thread, you'll notice that I was wanting to return the car to stock.

... I kinda changed my mind since then.

I also replaced the upstream, and down stream O2 sensors. The CEL has not returned.

If I kept a bit more calm, I would have used a nice performance cat, instead of the OEM. Oh well.

Also [MENTION=9500]danbfree[/MENTION], the first owner installed the catless downpipe, but also a obnoxious and annoying muffler-less exhaust with a big fat resonator tail pipe thing.

Going highway speed rattles my ears from the droning.

So ... problem solved?

I think I'm going to get one of those nice Milltek Exhausts, which apparently are quiet, but good for higher hp.
Actually, I'm building a list of upgrades, most of it is new brake rotors, cooling (mentioned in that supercharger thread).

Actually most of my upgrades this year will be brakes, engine mounts (not just RMM), suspension, and cooling / intake stuff and the exhaust pipes.
I'm not sure if that means a tune adjustment from the intake / exhaust, I haven't looked into that yet.

Eventually I'll make a big jump from the mostly stock setup to a X47R, or possibly even a VT330R, with meth / water injection.

Ill probably spray the exhaust stuff with that ceramic heat coating, and if it's safe, probably a coating of lime green spray paint (I don't know how that affects the ceramic stuff).

But that big upgrade is at least a year away.

 

[dmb]

I definitely believe you. I did put in a cat. Unfortunately since I was kind of anxious, I grabbed a OEM cat.

If you read through this thread, you'll notice that I was wanting to return the car to stock.

... I kinda changed my mind since then.

I also replaced the upstream, and down stream O2 sensors. The CEL has not returned.

If I kept a bit more calm, I would have used a nice performance cat, instead of the OEM. Oh well.

Also [MENTION=9500]danbfree[/MENTION], the first owner installed the catless downpipe, but also a obnoxious and annoying muffler-less exhaust with a big fat resonator tail pipe thing.

Going highway speed rattles my ears from the droning.

So ... problem solved?

I think I'm going to get one of those nice Milltek Exhausts, which apparently are quiet, but good for higher hp.
Actually, I'm building a list of upgrades, most of it is new brake rotors, cooling (mentioned in that supercharger thread).

Actually most of my upgrades this year will be brakes, engine mounts (not just RMM), suspension, and cooling / intake stuff and the exhaust pipes.
I'm not sure if that means a tune adjustment from the intake / exhaust, I haven't looked into that yet.

Eventually I'll make a big jump from the mostly stock setup to a X47R, or possibly even a VT330R, with meth / water injection.

Ill probably spray the exhaust stuff with that ceramic heat coating, and if it's safe, probably a coating of lime green spray paint (I don't know how that affects the ceramic stuff).

But that big upgrade is at least a year away.

You went from asking about a Chip? to X47r with meth injection in 2 months. you got my like on this post!

 

[danbfree]

I definitely believe you. I did put in a cat. Unfortunately since I was kind of anxious, I grabbed a OEM cat.

If you read through this thread, you'll notice that I was wanting to return the car to stock.

... I kinda changed my mind since then.

I also replaced the upstream, and down stream O2 sensors. The CEL has not returned.

If I kept a bit more calm, I would have used a nice performance cat, instead of the OEM. Oh well.

Also [MENTION=9500]danbfree[/MENTION], the first owner installed the catless downpipe, but also a obnoxious and annoying muffler-less exhaust with a big fat resonator tail pipe thing.

Going highway speed rattles my ears from the droning.

So ... problem solved?

I think I'm going to get one of those nice Milltek Exhausts, which apparently are quiet, but good for higher hp.
Actually, I'm building a list of upgrades, most of it is new brake rotors, cooling (mentioned in that supercharger thread).

Actually most of my upgrades this year will be brakes, engine mounts (not just RMM), suspension, and cooling / intake stuff and the exhaust pipes.
I'm not sure if that means a tune adjustment from the intake / exhaust, I haven't looked into that yet.

Eventually I'll make a big jump from the mostly stock setup to a X47R, or possibly even a VT330R, with meth / water injection.

Ill probably spray the exhaust stuff with that ceramic heat coating, and if it's safe, probably a coating of lime green spray paint (I don't know how that affects the ceramic stuff).

But that big upgrade is at least a year away.

And just to throw another monkey wrench into your plans to consider, there's a tuner making 300whp with an x47r on a 100% stock exhaust. You'd only need to be concerned with high EGT's if you were to continuously pound on it/track it but goes to show there isn't much of a restriction at all.

 

[mk_not_a_robot]

You went from asking about a Chip? to X47r with meth injection in 2 months. you got my like on this post!

lol, true, very true.

When I first bought it, I was seeing it as a poor mans sports car. I liked how flooring it made the car claw at the road, super fun!

Then the car went to
"hey! more than 3/4 of your bank account might detonate on the hi way!",

then back to "Hey! this car is really easy to work on ... and mod ... and it's the first "fast" car you've ever owned ..... hmmm"

The CEL and all that spoiled it for a bit, but that's in the past now.

I'm going to do a few more cheap maintenance items too, just as a preventative thing.

Just did the high pressure pump fuel tappet yesterday morning, the hardest part wast getting the intake crossover pipe to lift off the turbo housing with one arm, no problem.
Or maybe it was unscrewing the worm gear clamp with a tiny screwdriver.

[MENTION=9500]danbfree[/MENTION]
I believe you, a lot of parts and mods only seem to be needed if you're doing something insane.

I did think that a better exhaust was needed for pushing past 250hp though, so it's just for when the temps get high from constant boost and all that then?
It does seem like this car can be pushed hard, but can't do it for very long without hitting some dangerous temperatures.

The mountains / foothills are about 3hrs drive from me, and there is several long runs through there that seem like a good weekend.
If I do that, I might be hitting some high temps.

 

[danbfree]

lol, true, very true.

When I first bought it, I was seeing it as a poor mans sports car. I liked how flooring it made the car claw at the road, super fun!

Then the car went to
"hey! more than 3/4 of your bank account might detonate on the hi way!",

then back to "Hey! this car is really easy to work on ... and mod ... and it's the first "fast" car you've ever owned ..... hmmm"

The CEL and all that spoiled it for a bit, but that's in the past now.

I'm going to do a few more cheap maintenance items too, just as a preventative thing.

Just did the high pressure pump fuel tappet yesterday morning, the hardest part wast getting the intake crossover pipe to lift off the turbo housing with one arm, no problem.
Or maybe it was unscrewing the worm gear clamp with a tiny screwdriver.

[MENTION=9500]danbfree[/MENTION]
I believe you, a lot of parts and mods only seem to be needed if you're doing something insane.

I did think that a better exhaust was needed for pushing past 250hp though, so it's just for when the temps get high from constant boost and all that then?
It does seem like this car can be pushed hard, but can't do it for very long without hitting some dangerous temperatures.

The mountains / foothills are about 3hrs drive from me, and there is several long runs through there that seem like a good weekend.
If I do that, I might be hitting some high temps.

So things like coolant and charge temps are affected more by having an IC or radiator upgrade and oil temps aren't a big deal until over 250+ anyway as long as you run full synthetic but it can be synergistic affect upgrading any one these areas too... so with a stock cat having like 600-800 cells, that's simply a lot of surface area getting really hot to burn off exhaust fumes as a catalyst. Eventually that can burn out your stock cat or raise your general underhood temps much faster if you track it with longer races or pound on it all day for rally day with a group out in the country, etc. Sure, running completely catless may squeeze out 10hp with a hybrid too, but isn't much of a restrction even with a hybrid upgrade. So for some of us a high flow cat at 100-200 cells with a proper bung spacer for the o2 sensor can be a great compromise. For example, a whoosh 200 cell high flow cat has 1/3 or less the hot surface area of the stock one but is plenty of catalyst effect to at least fully knock out the perceived fumes. It just prob wouldn't pass a sniffer test but easily would for OBD only emissions checks.