36,000 Miles Brake Service

[LITTLEVADER]

So last time at my Ford Dealer, I was told my rear pads are worn and need replacement..Was quoted $180 per axle to do it...Does this sound about right?? What has been people's experiences with them?? I know brake pads should not have a wear timetable but more on your style of driving, and I do drive aggresively...no track, but road aggressive. I know also the torque vectoring system in our cars use the brakes more heavily..Any info or input will be greatly appreciated.

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[Jerickson88]

So last time at my Ford Dealer, I was told my rear pads are worn and need replacement..Was quoted $180 per axle to do it...Does this sound about right?? What has been people's experiences with them?? I know brake pads should not have a wear timetable but more on your style of driving, and I do drive aggresively...no track, but road aggressive. I know also the torque vectoring system in our cars use the brakes more heavily..Any info or input will be greatly appreciated.

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I made the decision this afternoon to step away from motorcraft prts. Not that they are inferior to parts store stuff but their pads have lifetime warranty and usually get the parts quickly, provided they are correct. Keep in mind that Duralast pads won’t have the edge that the Motorcraft “S” pads do for high performance driving, but they may last longer and have less dust. They are also 1/3 if not less than MC pads and have a lifetime warranty. The way I use the car, I doubt I’d know the difference.

Now, if you’re gonna track the car, I’d go with the S pads. You cannot do any better (maybe) for the price, without going big brakes or doing significant brake mods.

I’m also getting away from the MC oil and filter, and going to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Service writer told me that if I swap to synthetic, there’s no reason I couldn’t go 7,500 miles on an oil change, and that the MC Syn blend was fine product but in staying with that, he would do it every 5k.

These are my opinions, not solicited to be 100% be all end all advice.

 

[danbfree]

So last time at my Ford Dealer, I was told my rear pads are worn and need replacement..Was quoted $180 per axle to do it...Does this sound about right?? What has been people's experiences with them?? I know brake pads should not have a wear timetable but more on your style of driving, and I do drive aggresively...no track, but road aggressive. I know also the torque vectoring system in our cars use the brakes more heavily..Any info or input will be greatly appreciated.

Sadly, this does sound right for the life of the pads for many people and the price is actually pretty GOOD price for the dealer... you can always find an overwhelming selection of decent pads on RockAuto including ceramic if you find your stock ones to be too dusty, in fact the Motorcraft ceramics are the most expensive not performance brand option there is... nothing wrong with going with a decent name brand and not Motorcraft either if you want to order pads yourself and ask a random cheapie brake shop to do the work for you.

 

[danbfree]

I made the decision this afternoon to step away from motorcraft prts. Not that they are inferior to parts store stuff but their pads have lifetime warranty and usually get the parts quickly, provided they are correct. Keep in mind that Duralast pads won’t have the edge that the Motorcraft “S” pads do for high performance driving, but they may last longer and have less dust. They are also 1/3 if not less than MC pads and have a lifetime warranty. The way I use the car, I doubt I’d know the difference.

Now, if you’re gonna track the car, I’d go with the S pads. You cannot do any better (maybe) for the price, without going big brakes or doing significant brake mods.

I’m also getting away from the MC oil and filter, and going to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Service writer told me that if I swap to synthetic, there’s no reason I couldn’t go 7,500 miles on an oil change, and that the MC Syn blend was fine product but in staying with that, he would do it every 5k.

These are my opinions, not solicited to be 100% be all end all advice.

Wow, that went off-topic quickly, LOL... But no reason to not do full synthetic when Walmart SuperTech is SN Plus rated now and Quaker State Ultimate Durability that is right up there with Amsoil and Royal Purple in the wear tests is only $20 too... I'll keep getting the Motorcraft FL400S larger oil filter as it's literally spec'd the same for $4 as the $8-10 aftermarket ones. I as well like PUP for oil, it was the only reasonably priced ACEA A5 oil that my Kia turbo called for but now that the Quaker State Ultimate Durability is so cheap and tests so good, I'm stuck on that for now... Definitely agree that a lot of Motorcraft parts are overpriced, other than the oil filter, OP should check around for better prices for sure.

 

[dmb]

my factory pads were making the scraping sounds so i figured i'd get some EBC reds F&R. Pulled the wheels off and.... the pads look new, so on the shelf they go [EBC's]. now I gotta make time for the FMIC, thermostat, Symposer delete, SS brake hoses, adj endlinks, B-8's, H&R springs, RMM and the side MM. needless to say the 18 f-150 is gonna be used for a few days, Bummer indeed

 

[Jerickson88]

Wow, that went off-topic quickly, LOL... But no reason to not do full synthetic when Walmart SuperTech is SN Plus rated now and Quaker State Ultimate Durability that is right up there with Amsoil and Royal Purple in the wear tests is only $20 too... I'll keep getting the Motorcraft FL400S larger oil filter as it's literally spec'd the same for $4 as the $8-10 aftermarket ones. I as well like PUP for oil, it was the only reasonably priced ACEA A5 oil that my Kia turbo called for but now that the Quaker State Ultimate Durability is so cheap and tests so good, I'm stuck on that for now... Definitely agree that a lot of Motorcraft parts are overpriced, other than the oil filter, OP should check around for better prices for sure.

Lol kind of.. at 32k today, my front pads were gone, but tears had half life. Put the Duralast pads on earlier. Been going thru the “seating processes” I can conclude that they do stop well but aren’t as snappy as the MC. Maybe they will tighten up a hair, but they are more “comfortable”

 

[Joshyfresh6953]

$180 for pads seems about right for both front AND back. if its just the front OR the back, I personally think that's expensive.... Changing your pads is pretty simple, I wound never pay a dealer to replace my brake pads and/or rotors unless there's some new special tool or process Ford came up with the change them, which I doubt lol

 

[Jerickson88]

$180 for pads seems about right for both front AND back. if its just the front OR the back, I personally think that's expensive.... Changing your pads is pretty simple, I wound never pay a dealer to replace my brake pads and/or rotors unless there's some new special tool or process Ford came up with the change them, which I doubt lol

My dealer quoted me 159.97 plus tax for front pads no labor. I went to autozone and bought $27.99 pads and the car stops just fine for street/daily

 

[danbfree]

$180 for pads seems about right for both front AND back. if its just the front OR the back, I personally think that's expensive.... Changing your pads is pretty simple, I wound never pay a dealer to replace my brake pads and/or rotors unless there's some new special tool or process Ford came up with the change them, which I doubt lol

My dealer quoted me 159.97 plus tax for front pads no labor. I went to autozone and bought $27.99 pads and the car stops just fine for street/daily

Yep, local brake shops have $100 per axle for parts and labor specials as well, I'm sure the dealer is always more expensive.

 

[HardBoiledEgg]

That's cheap


I charge 300 per axel including parts. But my labor rate is also 154 per hour plus OEM parts. Ford dealer btw

 

[danbfree]

That's cheap


I charge 300 per axel including parts. But my labor rate is also 154 per hour plus OEM parts. Ford dealer btw

Exactly, they offered a pretty good deal for a dealership, obviously some coupon promotion or something, normal labor rate for a dealer is like what you charge. That's why for something as simple as brakes, just go to a brake shop with specials as long as they have decent reviews and save the dealership for warranty or complex things if you are on a budget.

 

[Jerickson88]

Exactly, they offered a pretty good deal for a dealership, obviously some coupon promotion or something, normal labor rate for a dealer is like what you charge. That's why for something as simple as brakes, just go to a brake shop with specials as long as they have decent reviews and save the dealership for warranty or complex things if you are on a budget.

To be honest, I have a line of what I can do and what I will pay someone to do. I can replace my own clutch. I know nothing about valvetrain/head work. I refuse to pay someone to do hoses, belts, thermostats, brakes, wheel bearings and things of the like. I can diagnose a fair bit. Not a genius, or expert mechanic but I don’t throw money away!

My rotors were smooth. I didn’t have any shaking prior, so I did a pad slap. It took under 30 mins. On brakes, I usually catch them before they are cut up. Sometimes I don’t. I’m sure next front brake job will involve pads and rotors. I anticipate that I’ll need to do rears by 55k