Most reliable big turbo for lots of miles per year

TyphoonFiST

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#41
Boom. That’s the stuff I need to know.


So, I don’t suppose there’s accurate how-tos addressing those common screw ups? Could be helpful on someone swing vote shopping

So, a lot of this could be solved by getting the ported mani or the ram horn, and doing most of the assembly on the work bench along with the smooth intake tube?

Will the whole thing slide right in as a bench assembled unit?
The stock manifold will be easier to hang with the Turbo Vs. An actual tubular manifold....the OEM one is more compact also in size. When you get to that point and are hanging it with the OEM you will see what I mean. The coolant lines are easy peasy...I do believe most crush washers need to be torqued to 19 ft lbs if you wanna get Technical. I got my lines the way they needed to be on the Turbo then Torqued them down.... no leaks here! Just make sure you do it out of the vehicle and not in the vehicle. That's what makes it 10x harder because there is very little to no room once it is hanging/bolted on the engine.




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TDavis

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#42
I have the whoosh intake pipe/cross over pipe. The BOV is just fine that and it stays out of the way during an oil change when you pull the plug. If you end up getting a Garrett let me know....I'll show you how mine sits if you need reference.


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The stock manifold will be easier to hang with the Turbo Vs. An actual tubular manifold....the OEM one is more compact also in size. When you get to that point and are hanging it with the OEM you will see what I mean. The coolant lines are easy peasy...I do believe most crush washers need to be torqued to 19 ft lbs if you wanna get Technical. I got my lines the way they needed to be on the Turbo then Torqued them down.... no leaks here! Just make sure you do it out of the vehicle and not in the vehicle. That's what makes it 10x harder because there is very little to no room once it is hanging/bolted on the engine.


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Was the whoosh crossover. It long enough either to reach he turbo elbow? Or was that with the stock crossover?

How hard is it to get the manifold with the new turbo on back into the car? I know you have a lot of room once the wiper cowl and crossover are removed. Is there any snagging that happens?
 


TyphoonFiST

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#43
Was the whoosh crossover. It long enough either to reach he turbo elbow? Or was that with the stock crossover?

How hard is it to get the manifold with the new turbo on back into the car? I know you have a lot of room once the wiper cowl and crossover are removed. Is there any snagging that happens?
The whoosh crossover was made for the stock turbo connection and not long enough to connect to the Garrett hence the insert I used to connect the Whoosh intake pipe/ crossover pipe to the Elbow off the Turbo inlet.

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TDavis

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#45
I have the whoosh intake pipe/cross over pipe. The BOV is just fine that and it stays out of the way during an oil change when you pull the plug. If you end up getting a Garrett let me know....I'll show you how mine sits if you need reference.


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You mind posting pics for reference? I’m 90% on getting this turbo
 


slopoke

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#46
You mind posting pics for reference? I’m 90% on getting this turbo
I'm not sure if you are aware, but the ATP kit comes with a hot side charge pipe that has a nipple that you can fit a external blow off valve to. If that is what your question is about. Ron@Whoosh stated that he recommends that the blow off valve go on the cold side charge pipe where the sound symposer lives.



Fiesta_ST_chargepipe1.jpg

MMICP-FIST-14CP_1_9.png
 


TyphoonFiST

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#47
I'm not sure if you are aware, but the ATP kit comes with a hot side charge pipe that has a nipple that you can fit a external blow off valve to. If that is what your question is about. Ron@Whoosh stated that he recommends that the blow off valve go on the cold side charge pipe where the sound symposer lives.



View attachment 19283

View attachment 19284
You do not need to put it on the cold side....I didnt....just another pipe that isn't necessary.

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#48
Garrett all the way. Put over 60k miles on my Gen 1 GTX2867r and it was still going strong when I changed over to a Gen 2 GTX2860r. [strongman]
 


ron@whoosh

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#49
You do not need to put it on the cold side....I didnt....just another pipe that isn't necessary.

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you are correct that locating the BOV on the cold side is NOT mandatory
what I suggested and I'm sorry if I wasn't clear is when installing the Tial BOV on the ATP hot side pipe with 1" BOV tube/flange, the BOV sits very low to the ground and in a poor position. Capping that 1" port on the ATP hot side pipe then adding a BOV to your OEM symposer port (we offer the Supersonic TurboSmart) or adding a full replacement cold side such as cp-e with HKS is a much better or easier option.

This is info collected from many customer installs over the past year or so. You can certainly use the provided ATP parts as they designed if you wish.
 


TDavis

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#50
Garrett all the way. Put over 60k miles on my Gen 1 GTX2867r and it was still going strong when I changed over to a Gen 2 GTX2860r. [strongman]
How do you like the 2860r compared to the 2867r?
 


TDavis

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#52
The 2860 builds boost a lot faster and is capable of maxing out stock internals on the fiesta block.

Green is the 2860 in 4th vs the 2867 in 4th.
View attachment 19287
So is it the physical block thats inferior or the internals that are when pushing over 400? I'm sure its just internal like you said but I've heard the block can be iffy too.
 


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#53
I'd say if you put the upper block support and good forged rods and pistons, the shortblock could be taken to 500whp and beyond.
 




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