Sound symposer delete

[Eric Pittman]

Today I decided to unplug the symposer and I preferred the sound. What is the best way to disable this? I put duct tape over it in case it vents air. Does anyone know if it is a sealed system?

[video=youtube;CquuP5ofrYw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CquuP5ofrYw&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/video]

 

[rodmoe]

You should be fine as long as it is sealed up

 

[Eric Pittman]

Not sure duct tape counts as sealed Any ideas for something more permanent? I'm not going to shove a sock in it like peltonracer!

 

[rodmoe]

When we were doing this on our Mustangs we would go to Lowes/Home Depot and get a rubber cap type thing or plug

and seal it up with a hose clamp or some sort of device like that.

 

[pelotonracer2]

Not sure duct tape counts as sealed Any ideas for something more permanent? I'm not going to shove a sock in it like peltonracer!

What? My sound symposer is factory... there is no sock in it! LOL

 

[xplorguy]

Ha! I can't imagine disconnecting the sound symposer....it adds to the character of this car and it lets me know copious amounts of fuel is being used for my need for speed or amusement.........

 

[Sekred]

You could plug the hose directly at the intake manifold, just need to know the ID size.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Metal-Aluminium-Blanking-Plug-Bung-Silicone-Hose-Dump-Valve-Bov-End-Cap-solid-/221339650950?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

 

[92FOX]

I wish to do this, and am aware of the Boomba, Dead Hook, and other kits to delete the symposer. I do not wish to just plug the tube and zip tie the plumbing under the engine cover as the Boomba kit does, I'd rather remove the entire system.

It seems to me it should be as easy as removing the part from the intake tube near the intake manifold, plugging that hole, and removing everything from there to the firewall. Am I missing something?

 

[Gone in 60]

As a previous poster suggested, I just put a rubber plug in mine from Lowes. If I want it back, I can remove the plug in minutes.

 

[92FOX]

I just made my own sound symposer delete, as many others have. So far, so good. Bought a 3/4"PVC cap (threads on the inside, smooth on the outside) for $0.98. Removed the box and the small hose very easily to behind the battery. I also sanded the top of the cap smooth and painted it black with some clear so it doesn't stand out so much. All I need now is a cap/plug for the other end of the hose.

My only worry is that the cap may blow out of the hose on the charge pipe, so for now I've left the hardware in the back of the car and am considering getting a worm-sale hose clamp to replace the stock spring-steel style. For under $2, I am happy since I do not need the tap for the boost gauge right now.


Link to part from Home Depot:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte-Pipe-3-4-in-PVC-Sch-40-FPT-Cap-PVC-02117-1000HD/203811710

 

[Superfly Snook]

I used the dorman plug method BoostBumps posted here: http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/146-Fiesta-ST-Sound-Symposer/page3

The key for me was getting a ratchet/extension on the plug and getting it pretty tight in there so it wouldn't come loose and try to turn sideways. I am much happier now hearing the actual exhaust and not the droning symposer sounds. I think any method that plugs that thing up should work.

 

[92FOX]

Hadn't seen that method yet, I'll be doing this one later on for sure.

 

[92FOX]

As expected, the PVC cap was a fail...after 125 miles on the highway, with a few 3rd gear pulls, I heard a loud "pop" followed by immediate loss of power. Yep, blew the cap out. Glad it didn't shoot into the underside of the hood and dent it or get caught anywhere it could do damage (like the fan), and glad I had the foresight to put the box and tubes in the trunk since I half way expected this exact thing to happen. Got her all put back together, and going to get an expandable plug to put in there this weekend.

One very important lesson learned: I would not have been happy with a non-ST, this thing was a dog with no boost