Safe aftermarket LED headlight bulb info, finds and discussion

[redmoe]

Look at the difference between ours! Damn, the rear casings are completely different, what year is yours?

It just looks like drivers side vs passengers side to me. Both seem to have the same lip that the Hikari appear to be short enough to fit under.

 

[redmoe]

I don’t know why these manufacturers keep calling the anti flicker modules can bus anti flicker or just can bus. While this more is common with cars that use can bus for module communication the flicker that is seen when LEDs are installed is do to the PWM (pulse width modulation) of the power input to the halogen bulb. This is done to extend the life span of the halogen bulbs and reduce the power needed to run them. Incandescent bulbs react much slower the the change in the power source thus the output does not flicker. When you install LEDs into one of these systems you may see the flicker of the modulation due to their fast reaction time. The anti flicker modules are typically capacitors used to smooth out the signal.

 

[KKaWing]

Some of the more "legit" manufacturers actually sell modules that has both resistors for canbus errors and a capacitor to smooth out pwm... so I guess the street stall level vendors started to just mix them up

 

[redmoe]

That makes sense. I never ran into the error issue but my only experience with this is from the Jeep world. Apparently the Jeep control module was not looking current draw associated with the halogen bulb or the LED headlight assembly already had a load resistor installed.

 

[danbfree]

It just looks like drivers side vs passengers side to me. Both seem to have the same lip that the Hikari appear to be short enough to fit under.

No, not just that, you can clearly tell the '14 model has much deeper housing... unless the the Hikari is actually shorter to fit completely within with my oEdRo's actually longer? I'll have to look up the lengths of each if I can find them...

Edit: Yep, the Hikari appear to be shorter than oEdRo so now we need to clarify: IF base is wider than 32mm, is it's length shorter than X and if so it will also fit...

 

[danbfree]

I don’t know why these manufacturers keep calling the anti flicker modules can bus anti flicker or just can bus. While this more is common with cars that use can bus for module communication the flicker that is seen when LEDs are installed is do to the PWM (pulse width modulation) of the power input to the halogen bulb. This is done to extend the life span of the halogen bulbs and reduce the power needed to run them. Incandescent bulbs react much slower the the change in the power source thus the output does not flicker. When you install LEDs into one of these systems you may see the flicker of the modulation due to their fast reaction time. The anti flicker modules are typically capacitors used to smooth out the signal.

So, just to be clear, ALL LED's have a "driver" some are built in to the bulb and some have that external module, I don't think anti-flicker for CANBUS systems has anything to do with either style; it's a matter of whether the anti-flicker for CANBUS is incorporated into the design of either style and most of the newer LED's simply have it now... Besides, I don't think that it affects our car anyway, I'm pretty sure it doesn't use the CANBUS system that causes flicker issues or else wouldn't we hear reports of flicker and dashboard lights for bulb out? But I do get worse radio reception I've noticed, not any hum or noise at all, just simply bit worse reception.

 

[redmoe]

If you look at his pics with the covers on the housings look the same as the 2017 or at least as best I can tell from photos. The part numbers are right in the back of the housing. That would be the quickest way to tell. Based on the photos and product images I think that the Hakari is indeed shorter than a lot of the other offerings out there.

 

[redmoe]

So, just to be clear, ALL LED's have a "driver" some are built in to the bulb and some have that external module, I don't think anti-flicker for CANBUS systems has anything to do with either style; it's a matter of whether the anti-flicker for CANBUS is incorporated into the design of either style and most of the newer LED's simply have it now... Besides, I don't think that it affects our car anyway, I'm pretty sure it doesn't use the CANBUS system that causes flicker issues or else wouldn't we hear reports of flicker and dashboard lights for bulb out? But I do get worse radio reception I've noticed, not any hum or noise at all, just simply bit worse reception.

My point is that it’s a terminology issue. It is the PWM of the power source that causes the flicker not the fact the vehicle uses can bus for inter module communication. Unlike a HID system LEDs do not need a driver to fire them. LEDs will typically have a current limiting resistance as they act closer to a Short when fully forward biased vs a halogen filament which has an inherent resistance. Some LEDs have control circuits for the fans or if they offer color shifting.

Some LED offerings now have smoothing caps in them but many do not as the size of the caps creates a packaging issue.

One thing to add I believe that some manufacturers refer to the voltage regulator that some LED systems use to power the chips as a driver. In that context some bulbs may have a driver. This regulation is where the interference noise is generated. Depending on the regulator design it may be able to compensate for the PWM cycle.

The LED chip voltage requirements will drive whether voltage conversion is needed or not. Some chips can run off of the 12V system directly.

 

[danbfree]

ps i trust phillips bulbs all day i use their bulbs for my grow and have yet to replace the bulbs 3 years later sorry kinda off topic there

This isn't off-topic, definitely part of LED Discussion... But yeah, both Philips and CREE both offer great LED chips, it's a matter of which model of each... For example the cheaper $70 Hikari uses CREE XHP-50 chips, which are good, but CREE's best chip is now XHP-70... For the $90 Philips it uses Luxeon Z model chips, which is likely newer/higher level like the XHP-70 generation, so we may be simply looking at 2 different generations used... The 2 models of Hikari also look like a completely different design overall, just a similar fan base. So in this case the Philips are definitely better, I posted some XHP-70 based sets earlier too, and they up in the close to $90 price as well, so that would make sense...

 

[redmoe]

Back to the Phillips Hikari fitment on a 2017, I just ordered a set so we should know this weekend.

 

[redmoe]

What’s everybody using for the fogs? If these Hikari work out i need to get something for the fog lights lol.

 

[danbfree]

My point is that it’s a terminology issue. It is the PWM of the power source that causes the flicker not the fact the vehicle uses can bus for inter module communication. Unlike a HID system LEDs do not need a driver to fire them. LEDs will typically have a current limiting resistance as they act closer to a Short when fully forward biased vs a halogen filament which has an inherent resistance. Some LEDs have control circuits for the fans or if they offer color shifting.

Some LED offerings now have smoothing caps in them but many do not as the size of the caps creates a packaging issue.

One thing to add I believe that some manufacturers refer to the voltage regulator that some LED systems use to power the chips as a driver. In that context some bulbs may have a driver. This regulation is where the interference noise is generated. Depending on the regulator design it may be able to compensate for the PWM cycle.

The LED chip voltage requirements will drive whether voltage conversion is needed or not. Some chips can run off of the 12V system directly.

Thanks for the details! And yep, the Hikari are shorter than most, I wish we had a measurement available so we can clearly define "To fit the stock housing, the bulb base must be no more than 32mm/1.26" wide OR XX/XX in overall length"... that would REALLY help with our selection process! At least we know the Hikari are about as long as the stock bulb so that they will stay completely contained in the housing, it just sucks with so much variance out there.

 

[danbfree]

What’s everybody using for the fogs? If these Hikari work out i need to get something for the fog lights lol.

For fogs, all you have to do is pop out one button tab and one T25 screw in the wheel well and then there is plenty of room to fit whatever you want, if that helps any... 3000k yellow will penetrate actual fog better, but of course some people like to use regular 6000k for more light right in front of the car too... I had an extra set of old mediocre LED's I threw in there for now after my amazing deal find on multi-mode bulbs just led to them going out of sync with each other immediately... Also, the beam pattern sucks so you can always replace the entire fog light assemblies too, and since they are a very common size/standard there are TONS of choices, I wouldn't even know where to begin...

 

[redmoe]

Just ordered these to go along with the Hikaris: Alla Lighting Super Bright H11 LED Fog Lights 2000 Lumens High Power 3030-SMD LED H1... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N67FMQ5/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_38hIBbW356D12

Gotta cut through all of that AZ fog lol

 

[danbfree]

Just ordered these to go along with the Hikaris: Alla Lighting Super Bright H11 LED Fog Lights 2000 Lumens High Power 3030-SMD LED H1... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N67FMQ5/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_38hIBbW356D12

Gotta cut through all of that AZ fog lol

Interesting, never thought to even consider those simulated projection bulbs, I don't think they are all that bright but probably will have better projection as fog lights than the regular LED headlight bulbs I threw in there... But honestly, I would have chosen a different one, there are way better ones for $4-5 more right on Amazon, including of the same brand,

 

[redmoe]

Curious which ones are better and why?

 

[redmoe]

FYI just changed the order for these as they look like a better halogen replacement:

Alla Lighting H11 LED Fog Lights Super Bright 3000 Lumens High Power CSP SMD LED H11 3000K H11LL H8LL H8 H16 H11 LED Bulb H11 Yellow Fog Lights Lamp Bulbs Replacement w/Projector (Set of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077ZFFY47/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_k8jIBbEY8P468

 

[danbfree]

FYI just changed the order for these as they look like a better halogen replacement:

Alla Lighting H11 LED Fog Lights Super Bright 3000 Lumens High Power CSP SMD LED H11 3000K H11LL H8LL H8 H16 H11 LED Bulb H11 Yellow Fog Lights Lamp Bulbs Replacement w/Projector (Set of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077ZFFY47/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_k8jIBbEY8P468

Yeah, there you go, I just searched for H11 yellow fog LED and saw those too... I liked the ones that are 3200 lumen for $28.95 but this one is better than the first.

https://www.amazon.com/XSPEED-Extremely-Bright-Version-CSP-Chips/dp/B07CW8PB13/

 

[redmoe]

dang it those look better lol. Yet another order canceled. I guess I am getting my moneys worth this week on Prime. I will get some measurements and an install video of the Hikari this weekend.

 

[ROCKYFiestta]

man love those yellows i got these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CZQ7WVF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

but those yellows are just sexier and hopefully brighter please post a pic of the yellows when installed dying to see how they turn up

i felt like the ones i got are not as bright