180F Ford Motorcraft Thermostat now available

[koozy]

I really don't like working with coolant at all. I don't like the feel of it running down my arms, slippery tools, etc. and finding a place to properly dispose it.

 

[alexrex20]

I am trying to eat some General Tso's chicken and the damn coolant taste is still on my fingers LOL

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[M-Sport fan]

Ya. It wasn't bad. I wouldn't mind helping another local FiST. I bet we could do it in under an hour next time. Another great example of me making everything harder than it needed to be, was to simply let coolant drip everywhere instead of draining the rad properly into a receptacle. I was fighting slippery tools the whole time lol

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Yes, THANKS for the extra heads up and tips in addition to koozy's most EXCELLENT write-up/tutorial!

I will not even attempt this mod, until I am at the very least, changing out/flushing the whole system, and/or replacing the inadequate factory radiator.

 

[alexrex20]

good job! was the OE thermostat marked with a temp?

Pics of the oem tstat that came out of my 2017.

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[koozy]

I didn't write a detailed how-to for this as there was something pretty decent already available. What I wanted to offer with my photos and notes is that R&R'ing the thermostat is not as bad as many have made it seem to be, not even close.

The perception is that it looks like a big job, because the immediate thing to think is that the whole front end has to come off and the truth is... not so.

Hopefully those that may be interested in R&R'ing the thermostat, but were put off with unvalidated concerns can put them to rest by the experiences of those who have actually done it with little drama if at all

 

[alexrex20]

koozy, I never even considered swapping tstats until your post about how you did it. Everything else I've read was that the bumper and radiator had to come off to replace it. As you showed, that is certainly not the case. I ordered mine as soon as you swapped yours. You're right, it's not nearly as hard as many people made it out to seem. It's labor intensive but very straightforward. I reckon it would be an easy few hour job for any driveway mechanic with basic hand tools.

 

[TDavis]

koozy, I never even considered swapping tstats until your post about how you did it. Everything else I've read was that the bumper and radiator had to come off to replace it. As you showed, that is certainly not the case. I ordered mine as soon as you swapped yours. You're right, it's not nearly as hard as many people made it out to seem. It's labor intensive but very straightforward. I reckon it would be an easy few hour job for any driveway mechanic with basic hand tools.

This is interesting. Even the workshop manual doesn't say to remove the bumper and/or rad

 

[alexrex20]

This is interesting. Even the workshop manual doesn't say to remove the bumper and/or rad

What does the manual say? For the serpentine belt, it was saying to remove the motor mount but that's wrong also.

I was just going by what was said by others who have done the swap. There's a vid on YT where the dude took apart the entire front end of the car to get to the tstat.

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[TDavis]

It has pictures obviously but I didn't post them.



Drain the cooling system.
Refer to: Cooling System Draining, Vacuum Filling and Bleeding (303-03C Engine Cooling - 1.6L EcoBoost (132kW/180PS) - Sigma, General Procedures).

Remove the generator.
Refer to: Generator - 1.6L EcoBoost (132kW/180PS) - Sigma (414-02 Generator and Regulator, Removal and Installation).

Disconnect the electrical connectors, detach the harness retainer and position the wiring harness aside.

-Release the clip.

-Disconnect the coolant outlet hose.

-Release the clamp and disconnect the radiator hose.

-Remove the bolts and the coolant shutoff solenoid valve.
Torque: 89 lb.in (10 Nm)

-Release the clamp and disconnect coolant bypass hose.
Use the General Equipment: Hose Clamp Remover/Installer

-Remove the bolts and the thermostat housing.
Torque: 89 lb.in (10 Nm)

-Installation

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

 

[koozy]

Pics of the oem tstat that came out of my 2017.

So.... if you're interested and curious and want to put out some facts, since the OE thermostat that came out of your '17 just as the one that came out of my '14 is unmarked with a temp; you could test it yourself to see when your OE stat opens up by placing it in a pot of water and boil it with a thermometer to see at what temp the stat opens. This would help dispel or validete the thought some think that Ford updated the thermostat to 180 for '16+MY. If you're interested....

 

[alexrex20]

It has pictures obviously but I didn't post them.



Drain the cooling system.
Refer to: Cooling System Draining, Vacuum Filling and Bleeding (303-03C Engine Cooling - 1.6L EcoBoost (132kW/180PS) - Sigma, General Procedures).

Remove the generator.
Refer to: Generator - 1.6L EcoBoost (132kW/180PS) - Sigma (414-02 Generator and Regulator, Removal and Installation).

Disconnect the electrical connectors, detach the harness retainer and position the wiring harness aside.

-Release the clip.

-Disconnect the coolant outlet hose.

-Release the clamp and disconnect the radiator hose.

-Remove the bolts and the coolant shutoff solenoid valve.
Torque: 89 lb.in (10 Nm)

-Release the clamp and disconnect coolant bypass hose.
Use the General Equipment: Hose Clamp Remover/Installer

-Remove the bolts and the thermostat housing.
Torque: 89 lb.in (10 Nm)

-Installation

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

That makes it sound so easy. But in actual practice, the headlight also has to come out to remove the alternator. And the AC compressor needs to be lowered to fully access the thermostat housing bolts. Where did you get a copy of the full service manual?

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[alexrex20]

So.... if you're interested and curious and want to put out some facts, since the OE thermostat that came out of your '17 just as the one that came out of my '14 is unmarked with a temp; you could test it yourself to see when your OE stat opens up by placing it in a pot of water and boil it with a thermometer to see at what temp the stat opens. This would help dispel or validete the thought some think that Ford updated the thermostat to 180 for '16+MY. If you're interested....

I'll pass on that. I can already tell the difference in water temp with the new tstat. Now it likes to sit around 195 whereas before it would sit around 220. We'll see how well it manages the heat when I start driving it like an asshole. I may be a little premature on this, but I don't think we will have any more 95+ days this year. So the true test may have to wait til next year.

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[koozy]

yeah, I don't think Ford did either. Nothing I could find reflected that.

I think the 180 was created to address the '14-'15 recall candidates.

But that's a plus for those who wanted a lower stat, but not 160 that was available from Mishi.

 

[alexrex20]

A little more anecdotal evidence. Today I was hooning around a bit on the way home, messing around with a slightly older Civic Si sedan (2015 maybe?) as we worked our way through traffic. It was mostly just 5th gear action, though that seems to be what my car REALLY hates in the heat. I think the sustained high boost in the relatively low rpm of 5th gear is what does it in. I couldn't get the temp over 211F, whereas normally just driving home like a normal person it would be sitting at 225F. Granted, it was only 85F ambient today but with this sort of driving I would be at full hot (8 bars on the dummy gauge) within minutes. Today I was messing around with the Si for quite awhile; mostly because a stock Honda Fit was trying soooo hard to keep up with us.

In the summer, even when I'm trying to let the water temp cool as much as possible (no boost, low rpm cruising at 70mph), it would not ever drop below 213F. Now, driving it like an asshole, I can't get it to climb past 211F. So far it's a big win for me.

 

[TDavis]

That makes it sound so easy. But in actual practice, the headlight also has to come out to remove the alternator. And the AC compressor needs to be lowered to fully access the thermostat housing bolts. Where did you get a copy of the full service manual?

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I work at Ford so I have access to the workshop manuals.

 

[Sekred]

Me too, took about 4 hrs.

 

[koozy]

That’s pretty good and quicker than me, I like to take me time and clean things while I have access to things. Nice to see more successfully taking on the task.


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[koozy]

Also, you weren't kidding about those damn spring clamps on the small hose! [emoji51]

just saw this, I missed it earlier. Those spring clamps had me considering using worm gears instead when things were going back on, but alas the OE spring clamps are really the best IMO. The thing is they have to be positioned in a certain way and location which makes it challenging in the tight confines. Good thing is I don't foresee having to remove those again for a long time LOL

 

[Sekred]

That’s pretty good and quicker than me, I like to take me time and clean things while I have access to things. Nice to see more taking on the task.


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I already had the headlight out and car on stands, wheels off. I did not pull the housing right out because I did not remove "that" hose at the back. The clamp was facing down and I could not be bothered with it, I think I know why you removed the oil filter now. I removed the intake tube to the throttle body and this gave a bit more wiggle room. All in all a pain the arse because there is FA room, my arms look like I have been tormenting my puddy cat.

 

[koozy]

I think I know why you removed the oil filter now.

I removed the oil filter because I couldn't see the 2 lower thermostat housing bolts from the top while I was loosening them and wasn't comfortable taking them all the way out blind and potentially losing them into the abyss, LOL. My tools weren't magnetic. Removing the filter allowed me access and sight to at least one of the bolts where I felt comfortable enough that I wouldn't lose it. The challenge for me was due to the tools I had available. I liked my use of a magnetic antenna pickup tool to screw the lower bolts back for reinstallation, enough so that I could put a socket on to torque them down. I like the snake tool Alex used and if it's magnetic, even better.