VT330R Hybrid Turbo Kit Install and Review

[VirtualRonin]

Im sorry, but is that 2 days to get from across the pond to here???? Even with the money spent for it, I'm impressed.

Yeah, I ordered it Monday night. Super fast shipping!


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[TyphoonFiST]

That's epic shit right there...

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[slopoke]

Did you ever find your boost leak?

 

[VirtualRonin]

Did you ever find your boost leak?

No, nothing that I could find from a visual inspection. I'm going to do a boost leak test on Saturday, so I'll know whether or not I have a leak. We've been progressing with tuning this week though, I'm up to 19psi on my datalog runs and just got a new revision today.


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[Dirttwurk]

Your kinda close. I'll try to explain it as best I can at the moment but I'm still learning as well.

The wastegate actuator is mechanically attached to the internal wastegate flapper valve, which is located on the exhaust side of the turbine. When that flapper opens it allows exhaust to bypass the turbine, limiting speed of the turbine, which also limits the boost created on the compressor side.

The wastegate actuator is a linear actuator made of an internal spring and diaphragm. The electronic boost solenoid allows boost pressure to be added to the top of the actuator, pressing on the diaphragm and the spring, which increases pressure applied to the wastegate flapper. As long as the flapper is closed, the turbine will spin faster, creating more boost. So, the wastegate flapper is held closed by mechanical spring pressure and boost pressure applied to the diaphragm. You can customize the wastegate spring to achieve your minimum boost level which occurs when the exhaust flow overcomes the spring pressure applied by the wastegate actuator without air pressure applied to the diaphragm.

This is a baseline tune so we're running purely on spring pressure so we know what base boost we are starting with. Spring pressure plus preload should yield an expected boost pressure, which we are not at just yet. For example, 11psi spring + preload of 3mm should yield 13-14 psi according to my tuner.

Currently, I am seeing around 12psi on my 3rd gear datalogs.


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Hey Man,
Just thought I'd chime in since you said you're still learning. Boost pressure on this style of wastegate diaphragm doesn't serve to hold the valve closed. The boost control solenoid is basically an air bleed that delays when the actuator sees enough boost to overcome spring pressure and push the wastegate into the open position. Back in the day lots of stuff ran only on spring pressure. So if you had an 11psi spring, you more or less saw 11psi at the manifold. An old hack was to tee in a mechanical bleed valve into the reference line to the actuator, bleeding off some of the boost so that you would hold to a higher manifold pressure before the actuator started moving. Manual & Electronic boost controllers, and the factory boost control solenoids all work on a similar principle.

With that said, if you're still getting low boost issues, you might want to verify that the lines on your solenoid are going to the right places. Next thing I'd look for is if something is preventing the swing valve from closing fully, maybe something stuck in the valve seat. Or the valve head not sealing fully for some reason.

Hope this can be of help in diagnosing your issue.

 

[VirtualRonin]

Hey Man,
Just thought I'd chime in since you said you're still learning. Boost pressure on this style of wastegate diaphragm doesn't serve to hold the valve closed. The boost control solenoid is basically an air bleed that delays when the actuator sees enough boost to overcome spring pressure and push the wastegate into the open position. Back in the day lots of stuff ran only on spring pressure. So if you had an 11psi spring, you more or less saw 11psi at the manifold. An old hack was to tee in a mechanical bleed valve into the reference line to the actuator, bleeding off some of the boost so that you would hold to a higher manifold pressure before the actuator started moving. Manual & Electronic boost controllers, and the factory boost control solenoids all work on a similar principle.

With that said, if you're still getting low boost issues, you might want to verify that the lines on your solenoid are going to the right places. Next thing I'd look for is if something is preventing the swing valve from closing fully, maybe something stuck in the valve seat. Or the valve head not sealing fully for some reason.

Hope this can be of help in diagnosing your issue.

It definitely helps my understanding of the wastegate actuator. I'm planning to do a boost leak test this weekend so if there is an actual leak, I should be able to identify it easily.


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[VirtualRonin]

With my very limited knowledge of turbo's. I thought that the boost pressure on the sense line side is the muscle that operates the actuator to open the IWG valve, thereby controlling boost. If there was a leak, would that lessen the pressure to operate the actuator and have too much boost? Maybe the valve on the turbo is not closing completely? Or a leak somewhere from the turbo compressor outlet to intake manifold? Just thinking out loud.

So, turns out you were on the right track with this and I was thinking it worked a different way. I appreciate the input [emoji1303]


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[Guzzi1200SE]

Hello excellent (best) choice. I have a magnetic on way. Approx. 5 weeks. Mods for sure. I've been looking at power adding options. This one is at the top of the list. Been talking to Ron at Woosh to configure a setup. Luv to see how your install goes. Are you keeping the stock turbo ? Friend of mine wants to convert his non ST to a turbo version. I'm in NJ If you want to chat on phone let me know. Like to see what you have planned. Thanks, Stan 908-208-3735

 

[VirtualRonin]

I got the ITG crossover installed and I can confirm that it does reach all the way to the inlet elbow [emoji1303]



I had to get a new 70mm elbow since I already modified the one that came with the kit.



I trimmed about 2" off the elbow on the turbo inlet side



I also trimmed an area on the bottom of the elbow to clear the Turbosmart Plumb Back



The replacement elbow was a little thicker than the original



The included bracket for the ITG crossover didn't really fit anywhere but I was able to use it by adding a grommet to the bracket and some plastic spacers.







Comparison pic, this one is on the UK version



From the front. Also, the breather hose connected with no issues





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[TyphoonFiST]

Noice meng! Happy to hear its finally coming together right!

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[felopr]

This itg crossover pipe expecially made for this hybrid or just off the shelf that fits any fiesta with oem turbo ? If the later, what makes it so different from, lets say the ramair? Thanks

 

[VirtualRonin]

This itg crossover pipe expecially made for this hybrid or just off the shelf that fits any fiesta with oem turbo ? If the later, what makes it so different from, lets say the ramair? Thanks

The description in this link says "Fits all global 2013 and newer Ford Fiesta ST 1.6T"

https://clptuning.co.uk/product/itg-maxogen-pro-cais-crossover-intake-pipe-ford-fiesta-st-1-6t/

I purchased this because the company that makes this turbo, AET Motorsports, recommends this crossover pipe specifically and since my RamAir wasn't a direct fit I wanted to see if this one would fit better.

Here's some comparison photos. You can see the ITG is a little different but it pairs well with the VT330R turbo.













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[slopoke]

Let us know how the boost leak testing goes. On that subject, I just cobbled together a DIY tester. My car developed a squeal. Kind of sounds like when you put a blade of grass between your fingers and blow. It happens under heavy acceleration. Putting around town, no noise. I hope it's a loose clamp, but I've seen people with exhaust manifold hardware loosening up and leaking past the gasket complain of similar noises. Either way, I've got a new gasket if that turns out to be the problem. More likely a clamp since my car has less than 3,000 miles on the odometer.

 

[VirtualRonin]

Let us know how the boost leak testing goes. On that subject, I just cobbled together a DIY tester. My car developed a squeal. Kind of sounds like when you put a blade of grass between your fingers and blow. It happens under heavy acceleration. Putting around town, no noise. I hope it's a loose clamp, but I've seen people with exhaust manifold hardware loosening up and leaking past the gasket complain of similar noises. Either way, I've got a new gasket if that turns out to be the problem. More likely a clamp since my car has less than 3,000 miles on the odometer.

I decided to forego the boost leak test for now. Turns out I need to cap off the cold side vacuum line and the line by the throttle body for the system to hold pressure during the test.

I'm not getting any indication of boost leak from any of my datalogs from last week and no visual or audible signs. I'm up to 22 psi on my latest tuning revision and it's holding.


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[ron@whoosh]

The description in this link says "Fits all global 2013 and newer Ford Fiesta ST 1.6T"

https://clptuning.co.uk/product/itg-maxogen-pro-cais-crossover-intake-pipe-ford-fiesta-st-1-6t/

I purchased this because the company that makes this turbo, AET Motorsports, recommends this crossover pipe specifically and since my RamAir wasn't a direct fit I wanted to see if this one would fit better.

Here's some comparison photos. You can see the ITG is a little different but it pairs well with the VT330R turbo.

View attachment 17782

View attachment 17783

View attachment 17784

View attachment 17785





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it's easy to see the difference
the RAMAIR has a bracket that will not allow for any adjustment from the OEM location of the crossover pipe
the ITG is held in place with a half circle bracket with a rubber strap (same as the ITG intake kit mounting we have on the shop car) This is much more forgiving than the OEM crossover pipe or the RAMAIR which fits like the OEM / solid in place

I'm anxious to see the results once your tune is finalized

 

[VirtualRonin]

Hello excellent (best) choice. I have a magnetic on way. Approx. 5 weeks. Mods for sure. I've been looking at power adding options. This one is at the top of the list. Been talking to Ron at Woosh to configure a setup. Luv to see how your install goes. Are you keeping the stock turbo ? Friend of mine wants to convert his non ST to a turbo version. I'm in NJ If you want to chat on phone let me know. Like to see what you have planned. Thanks, Stan 908-208-3735

I'm planning to keep the stock turbo for now. Someone is usually selling one on the Facebook group FiSTs of Fury so I would check there.


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[VirtualRonin]

Tuning update....we are close to wrapping up the 91 octane tune. Screenshot from datazap showing the boost curve on my 3rd gear datalog.

It's holding 24psi to redline at around 60% WGDC. Still room to grow but not without more fuel.

I'll try and get some V-Dyno graphs later this week but I plan to get the car on a real dyno soon. It's probably gonna be a Dyno Dynamics, the same one I put my car on with my stock turbo.


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[slopoke]

VirtualRonin, I did my boost testing today. The link below is to my thread on boost testing. Looks like you won't have to do it with the pressure results from your tuning testing, but just in case you have problems in the future.

http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/17444-DIY-Boost-Tester?p=302806#post302806

 

[VirtualRonin]

VirtualRonin, I did my boost testing today. The link below is to my thread on boost testing. Looks like you won't have to do it with the pressure results from your tuning testing, but just in case you have problems in the future.

http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/17444-DIY-Boost-Tester?p=302806#post302806

Thanks for sharing! Nice write up, def will help anyone who might need to test their setup.


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[VirtualRonin]

Dyno runs scheduled for next week on Friday, June 8th at 2pm. Gonna be running on a Dynojet


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