I just saw this post today, and it eased my mind a bit. Last week I got an Mfactory LSD, and I'm waiting to get it installed. It is literally my first mod, and a pretty big ticket item with supporting parts and install costs, so I've been hoping it's the right move given the opportunity cost. It snowed a foot here in Ithaca, NY today, I think the LSD should make the little beast a pretty good winter car. I'll post up when I find out.
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Woods247 BrokeFiST Build
- Thread starter Woods247
- Start date
![[wink]](/images/smilies/wink.gif "Wink [wink]")
![[:(]](/images/smilies/frown.png "Frown [:(]")
Thread Starter
#126
Thank you! Towards the tail end of 20 minute sessions on hot south eastern days, they do get a little greasy. The RT615K+ seems to hold on a bit longer than its predecessor. I've played around with air pressure and it doesn't seem to make much difference in terms of heat management. I find 30psi cold in all four tires works well. By the end of the sessions I see 36/37psi all around.
Tirerack is having a ridiculous sale on the older RT615K right now. They're less than $400 for a set! I'm tempted, but i think I will try the Federal RSRR next to see if they manage heat better. Honestly, it gets hot as hell here in the summer. Without R comps I'll probably continue to experience tire fatigue after 15 minutes of thrashing. There is a really attractive tire used by drivers in the UK called the Nankang AR-1 that is available in 215/40r17. I've been messaging Nankang USA regularly about bringing them in. No reply yet.
Tirerack is having a ridiculous sale on the older RT615K right now. They're less than $400 for a set! I'm tempted, but i think I will try the Federal RSRR next to see if they manage heat better. Honestly, it gets hot as hell here in the summer. Without R comps I'll probably continue to experience tire fatigue after 15 minutes of thrashing. There is a really attractive tire used by drivers in the UK called the Nankang AR-1 that is available in 215/40r17. I've been messaging Nankang USA regularly about bringing them in. No reply yet.
What do you consider hot when you say "hot south eastern days"? I figure I'd be fine. I'm just wondering because the more research I do on Federals the more I find people say they went with the Dunlop Z3s instead because the Federals get greasy quickly. Now mind you I've only seen a few say that but I'm just opening up my options as of now. I won't be getting new tires until right before TOTD.
Thread Starter
#128
Hot here is mid to upper 90s with humidity above 80%. A buddy has Z3s at our last trackday and they blistered on the outside of the tread. I considered them until I saw that. My old Subaru lit up RSRs. They were junk on that car. It’s a lot heavier and AWD though.
Thread Starter
#130
My offseason tire trailer build is coming along. I bought the bare trailer from a local guy extremely cheap. He used it once so it’s mint!
I’m trying to build it as simple as possible. I used a small piece of plywood over the front section and covered in a piece of rubber backed outdoor carpet I picked up from Home Depot. I probably have more money in the stainless hardware and carpet than I do in the trailer itself. Stainless is a necessity here.
I decided to use the same small box I’ve been using to carry my large tools and fluids. I also plan to bring two VP Racing 5 gallon jugs. I was originally only going to tote one fuel can but I’d like to bring the extra so I have fuel I trust for the ride home. Ridiculous I know, but I’m mental.
I plan to cradle the wheels inside the open area at the back of the trailer and strap them individually. I also picked up wheel totes to help protect them if they contact each other. I still haven’t ordered track tires so I don’t have them ready to mount yet.
I’ll use the trailer’s spare as ballast to make sure the tongue isn’t too heavy or too light. 10 gallons of fuel and my tools are approximately 150lbs. The wheels will be around 160lbs (if I choose the Federal RSRR in 215/40r17 and their specs are accurate). I may need to shift a little weight towards the tongue to move into the positive for towing stability. The spare may offset it perfectly. I’ll weigh everything when it’s complete and update this post. I towed the trailer empty with my car and I couldn’t tell it was there. I was very happy about that. My only concern is towing it up my steep driveway after it’s loaded. I doubt it’ll be a problem but I bet it weighs 500-600lbs when it’s done. The car will feel that when it’s climbing up from my garage. To be continued...
I’m trying to build it as simple as possible. I used a small piece of plywood over the front section and covered in a piece of rubber backed outdoor carpet I picked up from Home Depot. I probably have more money in the stainless hardware and carpet than I do in the trailer itself. Stainless is a necessity here.
I decided to use the same small box I’ve been using to carry my large tools and fluids. I also plan to bring two VP Racing 5 gallon jugs. I was originally only going to tote one fuel can but I’d like to bring the extra so I have fuel I trust for the ride home. Ridiculous I know, but I’m mental.
I plan to cradle the wheels inside the open area at the back of the trailer and strap them individually. I also picked up wheel totes to help protect them if they contact each other. I still haven’t ordered track tires so I don’t have them ready to mount yet.
I’ll use the trailer’s spare as ballast to make sure the tongue isn’t too heavy or too light. 10 gallons of fuel and my tools are approximately 150lbs. The wheels will be around 160lbs (if I choose the Federal RSRR in 215/40r17 and their specs are accurate). I may need to shift a little weight towards the tongue to move into the positive for towing stability. The spare may offset it perfectly. I’ll weigh everything when it’s complete and update this post. I towed the trailer empty with my car and I couldn’t tell it was there. I was very happy about that. My only concern is towing it up my steep driveway after it’s loaded. I doubt it’ll be a problem but I bet it weighs 500-600lbs when it’s done. The car will feel that when it’s climbing up from my garage. To be continued...
My offseason tire trailer build is coming along. I bought the bare trailer from a local guy extremely cheap. He used it once so it’s mint!
I’m trying to build it as simple as possible. I used a small piece of plywood over the front section and covered in a piece of rubber backed outdoor carpet I picked up from Home Depot. I probably have more money in the stainless hardware and carpet than I do in the trailer itself. Stainless is a necessity here.
I decided to use the same small box I’ve been using to carry my large tools and fluids. I also plan to bring two VP Racing 5 gallon jugs. I was originally only going to tote one fuel can but I’d like to bring the extra so I have fuel I trust for the ride home. Ridiculous I know, but I’m mental.
I plan to cradle the wheels inside the open area at the back of the trailer and strap them individually. I also picked up wheel totes to help protect them if they contact each other. I still haven’t ordered track tires so I don’t have them ready to mount yet.
I’ll use the trailer’s spare as ballast to make sure the tongue isn’t too heavy or too light. 10 gallons of fuel and my tools are approximately 150lbs. The wheels will be around 160lbs (if I choose the Federal RSRR in 215/40r17 and their specs are accurate). I may need to shift a little weight towards the tongue to move into the positive for towing stability. The spare may offset it perfectly. I’ll weigh everything when it’s complete and update this post. I towed the trailer empty with my car and I couldn’t tell it was there. I was very happy about that. My only concern is towing it up my steep driveway after it’s loaded. I doubt it’ll be a problem but I bet it weighs 500-600lbs when it’s done. The car will feel that when it’s climbing up from my garage. To be continued...
I’m trying to build it as simple as possible. I used a small piece of plywood over the front section and covered in a piece of rubber backed outdoor carpet I picked up from Home Depot. I probably have more money in the stainless hardware and carpet than I do in the trailer itself. Stainless is a necessity here.
I decided to use the same small box I’ve been using to carry my large tools and fluids. I also plan to bring two VP Racing 5 gallon jugs. I was originally only going to tote one fuel can but I’d like to bring the extra so I have fuel I trust for the ride home. Ridiculous I know, but I’m mental.
I plan to cradle the wheels inside the open area at the back of the trailer and strap them individually. I also picked up wheel totes to help protect them if they contact each other. I still haven’t ordered track tires so I don’t have them ready to mount yet.
I’ll use the trailer’s spare as ballast to make sure the tongue isn’t too heavy or too light. 10 gallons of fuel and my tools are approximately 150lbs. The wheels will be around 160lbs (if I choose the Federal RSRR in 215/40r17 and their specs are accurate). I may need to shift a little weight towards the tongue to move into the positive for towing stability. The spare may offset it perfectly. I’ll weigh everything when it’s complete and update this post. I towed the trailer empty with my car and I couldn’t tell it was there. I was very happy about that. My only concern is towing it up my steep driveway after it’s loaded. I doubt it’ll be a problem but I bet it weighs 500-600lbs when it’s done. The car will feel that when it’s climbing up from my garage. To be continued...
Absolutely zero issues to be had. The car did, and does, great while towing
Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
Thread Starter
#134
This Curt harness made it super simple: http://a.co/d/1neB9sE
Thread Starter
#136
My hitch is stable but the ball insert jiggles a lot. I was thinking about buying this if it bugs me too much: Hitch Clamp 1 1/4 - Hitch Tightener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068D3WLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ybd.BbR1DHHRF
I use a threaded hitch pin on my truck’s 2” receiver and it works perfectly.
I use a threaded hitch pin on my truck’s 2” receiver and it works perfectly.
Thread Starter
#139
It was very easy. I removed my exhaust tip to make it easier. I also had my wife hold one side while I started the nuts. I definitely won’t remove it at the track. It would be a pain in the ass and I don’t want to start my day that way.
I have one as well. Mines the draw tite though. I have a 4x6 that I *occasionally* pull, or a hitch basket (need a heat shield for that)
If you’re slick, you can just pop the hanger loose and not lift the car or remove the heat shield and have it done in like 30 mins. I lifted one side, popped the hanger loose, and installed per instruction, minus the heat shield. Used the stock hanger and wrapped two zip ties around it to give it a hair of sag that you likely won’t notice. It only hits on retarded bumps.
If you’re slick, you can just pop the hanger loose and not lift the car or remove the heat shield and have it done in like 30 mins. I lifted one side, popped the hanger loose, and installed per instruction, minus the heat shield. Used the stock hanger and wrapped two zip ties around it to give it a hair of sag that you likely won’t notice. It only hits on retarded bumps.
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