Turbo swap quick question

[kivnul]

I still have the symposer hooked up. Think plugging it will help?

 

[Intuit]

Yep, as long as you don't drive like a jackass while you're waiting on your base map it's not a problem. Was monitoring everything on the AP and had no knock or negative corrections the entire time.

Does the system stay out of turbo when a code is triggered?

There are many parameters that are adaptable with data filled in by sensors (such as MAF or/and MAP) and there are some parameters that are baseline/hard-coded. When some of the sensor feedback regularly appears outside of expected norms, I suspect the risk is that a code gets set, it reverts to limp-home mode, and one looses performance until a reboot. I suspect that the primary purpose for the tune isn't necessarily to prevent lean condition, knock/ping, and subsequent engine damage, but instead to allow one to actually reap the benefits of the new hardware without triggering a code and going into limp-home mode.

Accurate?

 

[kivnul]

Does anyone know what size / type of tubing is used on the turbo itself for the boost control? The barb on the compressor outlet? is straight instead of angled. The tube is not long enough really and has some sharp bends. My tuner said that the tune he sent should hit about 22 psi but I am seeing just shy of 18 psi and I am worried that this may be why. (checked hot and cold pipes, all is tight)

 

[Xaendeau]

Does the system stay out of turbo when a code is triggered?

There are many parameters that are adaptable with data filled in by sensors (such as MAF or/and MAP) and there are some parameters that are baseline/hard-coded. When some of the sensor feedback regularly appears outside of expected norms, I suspect the risk is that a code gets set, it reverts to limp-home mode, and one looses performance until a reboot. I suspect that the primary purpose for the tune isn't necessarily to prevent lean condition, knock/ping, and subsequent engine damage, but instead to allow one to actually reap the benefits of the new hardware without triggering a code and going into limp-home mode.

Accurate?

It doesn't. Not at all. I spent a few revisions just getting the waste-gate setup right. (spools at 3.1k, max torque at ~3.6k@22 psi, max boost at ~4.2k@25psi till right before redline). If you have a tune that has a map for a low boost or "waste-gate boost" pressure, it doesn't do anything with the waste-gate actuator solenoid and just lets it fly open willy-nilly. I have three items controlling the boost: the waste-gate my tuner labored over so long, the throttle body, and the BOV.

You have two main pressure sensors. You have a TIP in the intake pipe after the intercooler which is before the throttle body, and the main MAP on top of the intake manifold post throttle body. My tune is setup to keep the waste-gate fairly steady (keep turbo in full boost), then the TIP reads the base boost coming off the turbo, usually 27-25 psi spooled. What happens is my car is setup to creep the throttle body slightly closed to reduce boost to 25 psi while keeping the turbo in full boost. If I have traction control on, the car is setup to pull timing first if there is wheel slip, then the throttle body creeps shut a bit to reduce boost and let the wheels catch again...usually is about ~15psi in first gear with a lot of timing pulled since I am running crap tires right now. The BOV will creep open a little bit in first gear and in second if it is raining when the throttle angle goes too far in (pulling power+timing) order to prevent compressor surge and keep the wheels from spinning. Without (timing+boost based) traction control, it just smokes these cheap tires I have till 3rd gear. Nothing really hard-coded in these ECUs. Stock traction control just slams the throttle body closed and blows off all of your boost. Some tuners do things a little differently than the way mine is setup...and all of the parameters and sensors are operating significantly different than stock.

On a low psi waste-gate (5-10 psi) and have a stock style turbo like the x47 you could drive around like that for a while in "low boost" mode. I setup my MRX turbo with the upgraded waste-gate with a shit ton of preload, so I went ahead and got the basemap loaded before starting the car...as the waste-gate does like 16 psi of boost in "low-boost" mode...and I don't have a diverter valve anymore. Switched to a mechanical BOV.

If you go into boost though (turn the low boost map off), you would mess things up big time.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

If you have a tune that has a map for a low boost or "waste-gate boost" pressure, it doesn't do anything with the waste-gate actuator solenoid and just lets it fly open willy-nilly.

On a low psi wastegate (5-10 psi) and have a stock style turbo like the x47 you could drive around like that for a while. I setup my MRX turbo with the upgraded waste-gate with a shit ton of preload, so I went ahead and got the basemap loaded before starting the car...as the wastegate does like 16 psi of boost in "low-boost" mode.

If you go into boost though (n turn a low boost map off), you would mess things up big time.

What he's saying is things go boom...like your engine from detonation or over boost. Food for thought...so don't get throttle punchy just yet.

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Xaendeau]

Does anyone know what size / type of tubing is used on the turbo itself for the boost control? The barb on the compressor outlet? is straight instead of angled. The tube is not long enough really and has some sharp bends. My tuner said that the tune he sent should hit about 22 psi but I am seeing just shy of 18 psi and I am worried that this may be why. (checked hot and cold pipes, all is tight)

5/32" or 3/16" vacuum line will work. I've used both, I think the (3/16" or 4.7mm) one is the exact fit but the (5/32" or 4mm) will work too. You have vacuum lines running from the intake (pre-turbo), compressor outlet (pre-intercooler) and waste-gate. You then have a boost control solenoid that regulates everything. These vacuum lines are high-ish quality...they also are held in place by tiny compression clamps. Maybe check those? They shouldn't have any leaks unless you got a stick/road debris shoved up there and damaged something. I wouldn't even bother replacing those unless you are sure they are an issue. The stock diverted valve is known to be kinda meh. It is built into the side of the turbo, right on the compressor outlet.

If you have boost leaks