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Turbo swap quick question

kivnul

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#1
Hiya. I have read thru quite a few threads about pulling the turbo. It seems many (all?) people remove the exhaust manifold and the turbo together and then separate them. Is this required? I ask because this is on my todo list this coming weekend but I did not purchase any manifold studs/nuts/gasket. Thanks all.
 


TyphoonFiST

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#2
That is a good question! I also was starting to wonder if I would be coming across any broken studs for the exhaust manifold...im at 37k and getting ready for install. I was thinking about getting some ARP shtuff but if not many people have encountered broken studs.....Great! I will just move forward without getting anything...makes my life easier!
 


koozy

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#3
Hiya. I have read thru quite a few threads about pulling the turbo. It seems many (all?) people remove the exhaust manifold and the turbo together and then separate them. Is this required? I ask because this is on my todo list this coming weekend but I did not purchase any manifold studs/nuts/gasket. Thanks all.
Not required, but I'd recommend it. It gives you the opportunity to clean and put some anti-seize on some of the fasteners. New gaskets and fasteners are not required, unless you strip or ruin something during removal. There's several how-to's around, but here's my ~18 step removal process.
http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/3074-koozy-s-ST?p=142338&viewfull=1#post142338
 


TyphoonFiST

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koozy

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#7
When you bought the Ramair pipe did you have to buy a new coupler for it to fit the Garrett or was the one that came with it proper? I have a Garrett that I'm thinking to buy it for even though the aluminum and heat soak bother me.
I bought one to fit my application. The one that comes with the Ramair crossover pipe is meant for the OE factory turbo inlet dimensions.
 


Quisp

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I pulled manifold and turbo. Easier working up top for me. My exhaust manifolds studs all came out of the head. I just had to remove the nuts from the studs and thread them back in.
 


OP
kivnul

kivnul

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Thread Starter #9
Not required, but I'd recommend it. It gives you the opportunity to clean and put some anti-seize on some of the fasteners. New gaskets and fasteners are not required, unless you strip or ruin something during removal. There's several how-to's around, but here's my ~18 step removal process.
http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/3074-koozy-s-ST?p=142338&viewfull=1#post142338
I had not seen your breakdown before now but it does closely match what I have gathered from other sources. I am guessing I will be taking the mainfold off then if only for ease of use. Ill be checking my local dealers to see if they have any parts in stock. I do not want to be waiting on something when I inevitably break a gasket or bolt.

Thanks all for the replies.
 


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#10
hmmm, from the bottom on rhino ramps. turbo separate from exhaust manifold. removed alum heat shield completely, not the bend it out of the way bs. used nothing but sk, snap on and mac tools. had zero problems......
 


Intuit

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Do people just swap turbos without retuning and still have a perfectly functioning vehicle?

Idle curiosity... not interested in doing any of this, but just curious.
 


TyphoonFiST

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Do people just swap turbos without retuning and still have a perfectly functioning vehicle?

Idle curiosity... not interested in doing any of this, but just curious.
No....fueling....timing everything needs to be reworked. If not Engine go Boom after detonation.

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
 


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kivnul

kivnul

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Do people just swap turbos without retuning and still have a perfectly functioning vehicle?

Idle curiosity... not interested in doing any of this, but just curious.
I am guessing you could get the engine to idle OK with a hybrid swap. As soon as you stepped on the gas tho all sorts of things will be wrong. The computer will have no idea how to compensate. As TyphoonFiST says, Boom.
 


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I am guessing you could get the engine to idle OK with a hybrid swap. As soon as you stepped on the gas tho all sorts of things will be wrong. The computer will have no idea how to compensate. As TyphoonFiST says, Boom.
Not entirely accurate, I had a custom 93 tune done for the stock turbo on my car when I did the swap. Was able to drive normally, just tried my best to keep it out of boost. Had no issues while I waited for the base map to come in from Stratified.
 


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kivnul

kivnul

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My word usage was not optimal. By "stepped on the gas" I mean "aggressive throttle input" or "floored it"
 


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My word usage was not optimal. By "stepped on the gas" I mean "aggressive throttle input" or "floored it"
Yep, as long as you don't drive like a jackass while you're waiting on your base map it's not a problem. Was monitoring everything on the AP and had no knock or negative corrections the entire time.
 


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kivnul

kivnul

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Update: just got the turbo installed. That was quite the chore. Ended up taking off the exhaust manifold. 3 of the studs did not look healthy afterword, but I had 4 spares so all is good. Shifting cables were touching the Mountune downpipe; pulled one of them out of its bracket to make room. 20 hours all in or so for this project.

I am getting the dreaded x47 whistle. Wondering if going back to a stockish intake would tone it down. May make a dedicated thread to it later, searching the forums is not working out for me.
 


jeff

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hmmm, from the bottom on rhino ramps. turbo separate from exhaust manifold. removed alum heat shield completely, not the bend it out of the way bs. used nothing but sk, snap on and mac tools. had zero problems......
The heat shield does have to be bent/mangled a bit, even once all the bolts are off it doesn't just come right out. I agree it should be removed rather than bent out of the way.

Update: just got the turbo installed. That was quite the chore. Ended up taking off the exhaust manifold. 3 of the studs did not look healthy afterword, but I had 4 spares so all is good. Shifting cables were touching the Mountune downpipe; pulled one of them out of its bracket to make room. 20 hours all in or so for this project.

I am getting the dreaded x47 whistle. Wondering if going back to a stockish intake would tone it down. May make a dedicated thread to it later, searching the forums is not working out for me.
Congrats good man on a job well done. Your base map will feel wimpy but don't be dismayed, once it's all done you'll be happy.

The whistle..........I lived with mine for 6 months and recently swapped intakes to get rid of some of the noise. With my new setup (stock modified box, panel filter, Ramair induction pipes/crossover) the whistle is barely even noticeable, all you hear is engine rumble and exhaust, it's great. So if you have a SRI or cone filter type setup you might want to swap out. Some people love the whistles and whooshing though.

Congrats again!!!
 


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kivnul

kivnul

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Thread Starter #19
Congrats good man on a job well done. Your base map will feel wimpy but don't be dismayed, once it's all done you'll be happy.

The whistle..........I lived with mine for 6 months and recently swapped intakes to get rid of some of the noise. With my new setup (stock modified box, panel filter, Ramair induction pipes/crossover) the whistle is barely even noticeable, all you hear is engine rumble and exhaust, it's great. So if you have a SRI or cone filter type setup you might want to swap out. Some people love the whistles and whooshing though.

Congrats again!!!
Thanks Jeff. Currently running the CPE setup which if I recall from previous reading allows for the loud whistle. Ill take a looksie at some of the offerings of induction pipes, cobb type filter and maybe the ST200 airbox.
 


jeff

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#20
Thanks Jeff. Currently running the CPE setup which if I recall from previous reading allows for the loud whistle. Ill take a looksie at some of the offerings of induction pipes, cobb type filter and maybe the ST200 airbox.
Yeah holler at me if you want to discuss, I’m super happy with my new setup. I’m betting any new air box such as Cobb or mountune offers is gonna add some noise.
 


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