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What oil brand do you use on your Fiesta ST?
- Thread starter Harvick
- Start date
- Tags fiesta st oil fiesta st oil brand
Those two might be a bit thinner (in HTHSV) than the T6.
I believe the M1 is 3.6 currently and the Castrol is ~3.7, whereas the T6 is at or above 4.0 in High Temperature High Shear Viscosity, so they will be slightly better than the T6 in that regard, but still much worse than even the thickest 0W/5W-20s out there.
Most of the year (save for the occasional cold snaps) in mid-southern Florida, the difference will not matter at all.
But what I do NOT know (maybe a Ford tech/engineer on here can confirm this or not??) is IF the variable valve timing, and/or cam phaser mechanisms (<-IF we have those??) in these 1.6 EcoBoosts require a certain viscosity to function properly, as is necessary in other engines/brands with VVT/CP/etc.?![[dunno]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_dunno.gif "Dunno [dunno]")
IF they do, I would not go too high above the required viscosity, unless for open tracking/road course use in the summer, where it will shear down quickly to about a 20 weight's HTHSV range (~2.6-2.9) anyway after a couple of laps.
I'm guessing the answer on whether or not we can safely use higher viscosity oils would be IF the Antipodes/Southeast Asian/Middle Eastern (or any other HOT climate) sold FiSTs say that they can (or even SHOULD above certain ambient temps) use 5W-30s (or even thicker) oils right in their manuals??
That is, unless they use a completely different VVT system in their engines (VERY doubtful about that!).
I believe the M1 is 3.6 currently and the Castrol is ~3.7, whereas the T6 is at or above 4.0 in High Temperature High Shear Viscosity, so they will be slightly better than the T6 in that regard, but still much worse than even the thickest 0W/5W-20s out there.
Most of the year (save for the occasional cold snaps) in mid-southern Florida, the difference will not matter at all.
But what I do NOT know (maybe a Ford tech/engineer on here can confirm this or not??) is IF the variable valve timing, and/or cam phaser mechanisms (<-IF we have those??) in these 1.6 EcoBoosts require a certain viscosity to function properly, as is necessary in other engines/brands with VVT/CP/etc.?
IF they do, I would not go too high above the required viscosity, unless for open tracking/road course use in the summer, where it will shear down quickly to about a 20 weight's HTHSV range (~2.6-2.9) anyway after a couple of laps.
I'm guessing the answer on whether or not we can safely use higher viscosity oils would be IF the Antipodes/Southeast Asian/Middle Eastern (or any other HOT climate) sold FiSTs say that they can (or even SHOULD above certain ambient temps) use 5W-30s (or even thicker) oils right in their manuals??
That is, unless they use a completely different VVT system in their engines (VERY doubtful about that!).
So is the consensus that a 5w-30 full synthetic is ok or not? Living in Southern California it gets HOT in the summer and want to make sure a 5w-20 will be ok for a FiST with a stock turbo running an aggressive tune. I'm due for an oil change soon and am thinking of going to Pennzoil PP 5w-20, Redline 5w-20, or Amsoil 5w-20. Just want to run the best cleanest oil I can
Those two might be a bit thinner (in HTHSV) than the T6.
I believe the M1 is 3.6 currently and the Castrol is ~3.7, whereas the T6 is at or above 4.0 in High Temperature High Shear Viscosity, so they will be slightly better than the T6 in that regard, but still much worse than even the thickest 0W/5W-20s out there.
Most of the year (save for the occasional cold snaps) in mid-southern Florida, the difference will not matter at all.
But what I do NOT know (maybe a Ford tech/engineer on here can confirm this or not??) is IF the variable valve timing, and/or cam phaser mechanisms (<-IF we have those??) in these 1.6 EcoBoosts require a certain viscosity to function properly, as is necessary in other engines/brands with VVT/CP/etc.?
IF they do, I would not go too high above the required viscosity, unless for open tracking/road course use in the summer, where it will shear down quickly to about a 20 weight's HTHSV range (~2.6-2.9) anyway after a couple of laps.
I'm guessing the answer on whether or not we can safely use higher viscosity oils would be IF the Antipodes/Southeast Asian/Middle Eastern (or any other HOT climate) sold FiSTs say that they can (or even SHOULD above certain ambient temps) use 5W-30s (or even thicker) oils right in their manuals??
That is, unless they use a completely different VVT system in their engines (VERY doubtful about that!).
I believe the M1 is 3.6 currently and the Castrol is ~3.7, whereas the T6 is at or above 4.0 in High Temperature High Shear Viscosity, so they will be slightly better than the T6 in that regard, but still much worse than even the thickest 0W/5W-20s out there.
Most of the year (save for the occasional cold snaps) in mid-southern Florida, the difference will not matter at all.
But what I do NOT know (maybe a Ford tech/engineer on here can confirm this or not??) is IF the variable valve timing, and/or cam phaser mechanisms (<-IF we have those??) in these 1.6 EcoBoosts require a certain viscosity to function properly, as is necessary in other engines/brands with VVT/CP/etc.?
IF they do, I would not go too high above the required viscosity, unless for open tracking/road course use in the summer, where it will shear down quickly to about a 20 weight's HTHSV range (~2.6-2.9) anyway after a couple of laps.
I'm guessing the answer on whether or not we can safely use higher viscosity oils would be IF the Antipodes/Southeast Asian/Middle Eastern (or any other HOT climate) sold FiSTs say that they can (or even SHOULD above certain ambient temps) use 5W-30s (or even thicker) oils right in their manuals??
That is, unless they use a completely different VVT system in their engines (VERY doubtful about that!).
The problem is that the Red Line (as phenomenal as it is) is not certified/approved to/by the Ford 945-A spec at all (as is NO 5W-30 currently, even the Motorcraft version).
It is still unclear whether or not Amsoil actually tested, and paid for the Ford 945-A approval/certification for their Signature Series 5W-20 (AGAIN, even as GREAT as that stuff may be, and actually superior to the 'on the shelf at Wal Mart' 5W-20s which DO meet the spec).
They show the Ford spec in their listings, but the bottle lacks the API Energy Conserving 'Starburst' logo (and the additive package ppm levels are fairly high as well, albeit lower than Red Line's), so I don't know IF that invalidates it for the Ford spec or not?
The Amsoil OE series 5W-20 DOES meet all of the Ford spec approvals/requirements, but it is not anywhere near as good (or is capable of even HALF as much a 'long drain' interval, due to a much lower starting TBN) an oil as their Sig Series, and probably not any better than the stuff on the Wal Mart shelves.
Bottom line is that NONE of the above even matters IF you either do not care if Ford refuses your internal engine component warranty IF they can tie the failure to the non-spec oil used (ask the BIG powah peeps/DHM/etc. on here how much a quality rebuild/new block/bottom end/etc. co$t$).
OR if you are willing to roll the dice that your dealer (or the local warranty tech) will even bother to test which oil you were running at the time of the failure (given what an engine/labor runs them, I would NOT count on this, as even a very thorough/detailed Used Oil Analysis costs a tiny fraction of that ordeal!!).
Of course, once out of the power train warranty period (without an extended warranty), ALL bets are off, and I myself will go IMMEDIATELY to Red Line, Motul 300V, or one of the other big add pack, group 4/5 type 'boutique' full/"real" synthetics.![[wink]](/images/smilies/wink.gif "Wink [wink]")
It is still unclear whether or not Amsoil actually tested, and paid for the Ford 945-A approval/certification for their Signature Series 5W-20 (AGAIN, even as GREAT as that stuff may be, and actually superior to the 'on the shelf at Wal Mart' 5W-20s which DO meet the spec).
They show the Ford spec in their listings, but the bottle lacks the API Energy Conserving 'Starburst' logo (and the additive package ppm levels are fairly high as well, albeit lower than Red Line's), so I don't know IF that invalidates it for the Ford spec or not?
The Amsoil OE series 5W-20 DOES meet all of the Ford spec approvals/requirements, but it is not anywhere near as good (or is capable of even HALF as much a 'long drain' interval, due to a much lower starting TBN) an oil as their Sig Series, and probably not any better than the stuff on the Wal Mart shelves.
Bottom line is that NONE of the above even matters IF you either do not care if Ford refuses your internal engine component warranty IF they can tie the failure to the non-spec oil used (ask the BIG powah peeps/DHM/etc. on here how much a quality rebuild/new block/bottom end/etc. co$t$).
OR if you are willing to roll the dice that your dealer (or the local warranty tech) will even bother to test which oil you were running at the time of the failure (given what an engine/labor runs them, I would NOT count on this, as even a very thorough/detailed Used Oil Analysis costs a tiny fraction of that ordeal!!).
Of course, once out of the power train warranty period (without an extended warranty), ALL bets are off, and I myself will go IMMEDIATELY to Red Line, Motul 300V, or one of the other big add pack, group 4/5 type 'boutique' full/"real" synthetics.
The problem is that the Red Line (as phenomenal as it is) is not certified/approved to/by the Ford 945-A spec at all (as is NO 5W-30 currently, even the Motorcraft version).
It is still unclear whether or not Amsoil actually tested, and paid for the Ford 945-A approval/certification for their Signature Series 5W-20 (AGAIN, even as GREAT as that stuff may be, and actually superior to the 'on the shelf at Wal Mart' 5W-20 which DO meet the spec).
They show the Ford spec in their listings, but the bottle lacks the API Energy Conserving 'Starburst' logo (and the additive package ppm levels are fairly high as well, albeit lower than Red Line's), so I don't know IF that invalidates it for the Ford spec or not?
The Amsoil OE series 5W-20 DOES meet all of the Ford spec approvals/requirements, but it is not anywhere near as good (or is capable of even HALF as much a 'long drain' interval, due to a much lower starting TBN) an oil as their Sig Series, and probably not any better than the stuff on the Wal Mart shelves.
It is still unclear whether or not Amsoil actually tested, and paid for the Ford 945-A approval/certification for their Signature Series 5W-20 (AGAIN, even as GREAT as that stuff may be, and actually superior to the 'on the shelf at Wal Mart' 5W-20 which DO meet the spec).
They show the Ford spec in their listings, but the bottle lacks the API Energy Conserving 'Starburst' logo (and the additive package ppm levels are fairly high as well, albeit lower than Red Line's), so I don't know IF that invalidates it for the Ford spec or not?
The Amsoil OE series 5W-20 DOES meet all of the Ford spec approvals/requirements, but it is not anywhere near as good (or is capable of even HALF as much a 'long drain' interval, due to a much lower starting TBN) an oil as their Sig Series, and probably not any better than the stuff on the Wal Mart shelves.
I would highly doubt that the JGD oils, even their 'street' version offerings would have gone through the Ford certification process/fees involved either, and they are also very highly 'additized' as well (like Red Line), which puts them well beyond the API GF-5/SN ppm additive level limits.
I can safely say that their 'race' oils will NEVER pass ANY manufacturer's certifications (save for track bound, manufactured, pure race cars).
Their site has NO product data sheets at all, so it is hard to tell any certifications, actual viscosities, or any other tech specs.![[:(]](/images/smilies/frown.png "Frown [:(]")
I can safely say that their 'race' oils will NEVER pass ANY manufacturer's certifications (save for track bound, manufactured, pure race cars).
Their site has NO product data sheets at all, so it is hard to tell any certifications, actual viscosities, or any other tech specs.
I would highly doubt that the JGD oils, even their 'street' version offerings would have gone through the Ford certification process/fees involved either, and they are also very highly 'additized' as well (like Red Line), which puts them well beyond the API GF-5/SN ppm additive level limits.
I can safely say that their 'race' oils will NEVER pass ANY manufacturer's certifications (save for track bound, manufactured, pure race cars).
Their site has NO product data sheets at all, so it is hard to tell any certifications, actual viscosities, or any other tech specs.
I can safely say that their 'race' oils will NEVER pass ANY manufacturer's certifications (save for track bound, manufactured, pure race cars).
Their site has NO product data sheets at all, so it is hard to tell any certifications, actual viscosities, or any other tech specs.
For most of the 'boutique oils'; VERY high concentrations of ZDDP (ZincDialkyDithioPhosphate), which in concentrations over ~3000 ppm over long periods, can become corrosive to internal engine components (besides killing your catcon IF and ONLY IF you have any kind of ring/valve seal leak into the combustion chamber), and also high doses of various forms/compounds of molybdenum, possibly titanium, some very high tech forms of synthetic polymers (recently) and in rare cases, antimony (ALL of these are anti-friction/anti-wear type additives).
Most of the more racing oriented, even if still labelled as 'usable' for the street, oils tend to NOT have as many TBN boosting/long drain extending/acid and fuel dilution buffering detergent/dispersant additives like; calcium, magnesium, boron (which can also act as an anti-wear additive as well), since these can contribute to oil foaming/aeration/cavatation which could spell death to a costly, high revving race engine.
Race oriented engines tend to get MUCH more frequent/low mileage oil changes than street engines, so the above detergent/dispersant/Total Base Number type additives are not necessary for their uses anyway.
Red Line IS one exception to the above with their 'street'/multi-grade oils (vs. their pure race single weights), since they throw big quantities of calcium into these oils to make them more streetable, and to last at least for a 5K-7.5K oil change interval, whereas some of the race oils (like some of the Motul 300V grades) actually warn you right on their spec sheets to NOT leave their product in the sump for more than 1500-2000 miles at MOST.
Again, without seeing the spec sheets, or an accurate virgin oil analysis of them, it is impossible to know where the JGD street oils stand concerning these details (maybe try calling their tech dept.?).
Most of the more racing oriented, even if still labelled as 'usable' for the street, oils tend to NOT have as many TBN boosting/long drain extending/acid and fuel dilution buffering detergent/dispersant additives like; calcium, magnesium, boron (which can also act as an anti-wear additive as well), since these can contribute to oil foaming/aeration/cavatation which could spell death to a costly, high revving race engine.
Race oriented engines tend to get MUCH more frequent/low mileage oil changes than street engines, so the above detergent/dispersant/Total Base Number type additives are not necessary for their uses anyway.
Red Line IS one exception to the above with their 'street'/multi-grade oils (vs. their pure race single weights), since they throw big quantities of calcium into these oils to make them more streetable, and to last at least for a 5K-7.5K oil change interval, whereas some of the race oils (like some of the Motul 300V grades) actually warn you right on their spec sheets to NOT leave their product in the sump for more than 1500-2000 miles at MOST.
Again, without seeing the spec sheets, or an accurate virgin oil analysis of them, it is impossible to know where the JGD street oils stand concerning these details (maybe try calling their tech dept.?).
Nice....you could have them order more in from another store also...just have them do a store to store transfer.....like I said check back every so often....it's gets crazy cheap...I've gotten it as low as $1.60 a qt on some stuff with a discount. If your military or law enforcement or fire fighter ,You can get a 10% off also.
Ironically, that is the username of the person who sells/promotes Shaeffer's products on bobistheoilguy.com, "sales rep". ![[:)]](/images/smilies/smile.png "Smile [:)]")
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