Oil catch can/Separator

[BoostBumps]

I used a 5/8" to 1/2" reducer with 1/2" ID hose which is not enough of a difference to adversely impact flow rate considering the OE connector ID's are ~1/2" to begin with...Although I must admit that just using 5/8" hose would eliminate the need for reducers and additional clamps along with having 5/8" NPT's on CV and OCC ports...

 

[CanadianGuy]

Okay so anyone knows of any one working on a plug and play version?

 

[Chris G]

Okay so anyone knows of any one working on a plug and play version?

I was hoping the same… with a helpful diagram for an install because I clearly don't know as much as these guys do.

 

[Sekred]

I could not find a 5/8 check valve other than a dedicated Pneumatic valve that was around $200, my solution was high temp plastic barbs.

 

[westcoaST]

Check out my build thread. I purchased a spare PCV hose from Rock Auto, and the Morimoto catch can from Amazon. I went one step further and purchased clear, wire reinforced vacuum hose, so I could see through the outlet end of the catch can. The Morimoto baffled catch can comes with 5/8" ID hose and hose clamps. Take the Rockauto hose, cut off and strip the barbed ends, then pull the PCV hose from your FiST, cut the hoses, and you are almost done. Either make a angle from aluminum, drill it, and install it on the strut tower, or drill and tap a hole, in the tower, and mount the catch can. Its pretty simple.

 

[westcoaST]

I could not find a 5/8 check valve other than a dedicated Pneumatic valve that was around $200, my solution was high temp plastic barbs.

View attachment 3954

Where did you get the plastic barbs Sekred?

 

[Sekred]

Where did you get the plastic barbs Sekred?

I got them from a Auto store, use for vacuum lines on manifolds ext. I will search latter and see if I can locate. Moving house at the moment

Try this http://www.auto-performance.co.uk/index.php?cPath=154

 

[BoostBumps]

I could not find a 5/8 check valve other than a dedicated Pneumatic valve that was around $200, my solution was high temp plastic barbs.

View attachment 3954

Clever solution! Have you installed this yet?

Just one point....I'm just wondering how well those plastic barbs are going to clamp and seal against the CV's metal barbs without producing any vacuum leaks? Or are those barbs soft and compliant similar to a hose?

Just a suggestion if this doesn't seal well is that if you could find a thin walled 1/2" ID - 5/8" OD hose and cut a 1/2" section to fit onto the CV barbs and then slip the 5/8" ID hose over that this would seal very nicely with a clamp...I may investigate this further myself to eliminate a few clamps...

 

[HaveBlue83]

i made mine with the Home Depot air/water separator, with mods to keep it sealed up and removed the filter, and did the same 5/8-1/2 reducer at the catch can. put it next to the Pass headlight. I had to use straight couplers as 90deg ones are only online. I can redo it later. I have about $65 into it total. I cut the PCV line at the flexi ends and then took the home depot 5/8"-1/2" nylon coupler and heat gunned the PCV flexi-part to them. worked great and was a PAIN

I have noticed after stopping and idling for awhile and then moving, i can smell oil. after I intalled a JBR catch can on the FoST, it did the same thing.....because it's catching the oil instead of caking it into the head and burning most of it up. its raw hot oil in a can, and it permeates in the air. I was glad to smell that again lol.

I shouldn't have waited until 15K to do this. I SHOULD have done it at 1K like I did with my focus. I would have clean valves right now. I'm going to walnut blast the valves in the spring...maybe I will do the Boomba inserts as well then.

OH YEAH: I broke a damn tab off the PCV line that I reused. one is left. I musta cracked it last fall when I initially tried to remove it. I gotta order another PCV line and cut it.

 

[Sekred]

Clever solution! Have you installed this yet?

Just one point....I'm just wondering how well those plastic barbs are going to clamp and seal against the CV's metal barbs without producing any vacuum leaks? Or are those barbs soft and compliant similar to a hose?

Just a suggestion if this doesn't seal well is that if you could find a thin walled 1/2" ID - 5/8" OD hose and cut a 1/2" section to fit onto the CV barbs and then slip the 5/8" ID hose over that this would seal very nicely with a clamp...I may investigate this further myself to eliminate a few clamps...

Sealing was one of my concerns too.
The plastic is a soft flexible type. The ID matches the OD of the CV pretty much. I heated the plastic barbs in boiling water and used a vice to press them onto the CV, there a tight fit. I have been running the CC for over 12 months now, no leaks. I checks the hose clamps every now and then.
Just a note, the hose size I used for the catch can lines was 11/16 not 5/8.

 

[BoostBumps]

Sealing was one of my concerns too.
The plastic is a soft flexible type. The ID matches the OD of the CV pretty much. I heated the plastic barbs in boiling water and used a vice to press them onto the CV, there a tight fit. I have been running the CC for over 12 months now, no leaks. I checks the hose clamps every now and then.
Just a note, the hose size I used for the catch can lines was 11/16 not 5/8.

Hey thanks Sekred! I might try this out....

 

[lessard.dcj]

Okay so anyone knows of any one working on a plug and play version?

Boomba is working on a PnP version of an OCC for us. Right [MENTION=1045]Boomba Racing[/MENTION]

 

[iso100]

Yes!!

 

[HaveBlue83]

would be nice to see a PnP one. I cannot find any info saying that their can is baffled or not. I like the size n shape tho. easy to get in there.

 

[GoMax]

Dual Catch Cans?

This is a great picture, Thanks Sekred for the image!
There are two Vent lines to discuss here.

#1 is on the left in the picture. It goes from the PCV Valve near the back of the engine, along the vent hose, and into the Intake Manifold.
This vent hose is where we have all been installing our OCC's, for good reason. During low boost or no boost (idle) conditions, the majority of the Crank vented Oil goes along this path. Putting an OCC here helps to pull that airborn oil out of the system, preventing it from hitting the back of our intake values (hence - hopefully - preventing carbon build-up on our intake valves)

#2 is on the right in this picture. It goes from the Valve Cover to the Air Intake (just upstream of the turbo).
This vent hose is where oil goes when we are under boost @ the intake manifold.
I'm NOT SAYING the valve cover is under pressure.....
Under boost, we have a HUGE Vacuum on the Air Intake side, and oil vapor is pulled from the valve cover into the air stream headed towards the turbo (and more importantly - our inter-cooler).

I can understand the need (and desire) for an OCC on line #1. It keeps excess oil from entering the intake, and carbonizing our intake valves.
There is clear evidence from users that these OCC's do capture airborn oil.
For line #2, having an "oily" airstream (let's ignore that its HOT air coming from the Valve Covers) headed to the turbo - and then into the Intercooler - seems like another bad situation.
Especially if we want to keep oil out of our air stream (both under vacuum and under boost)

Question: Wouldn't adding a second OCC to line #2 protect the inter-cooler from getting gunked up with oil residue? .... and out of our intake Valves?
I believe this line is not under pressure (when we are under boost), so the OCC would act similar to the OCC in line #1 (?)

The CFM Baffled Valve Cover vent might / should allow you to remove line #2, and just Vent the air to atmosphere. However, if you don't want to VTA, I think installing a second OCC in line #2 would be important.

I already plan to install an OCC on line #1. Worth it to do so in line #2?

-- Max

 

[timmytoast]

I used a 5/8" to 1/2" reducer with 1/2" ID hose which is not enough of a difference to adversely impact flow rate considering the OE connector ID's are ~1/2" to begin with...Although I must admit that just using 5/8" hose would eliminate the need for reducers and additional clamps along with having 5/8" NPT's on CV and OCC ports...

View attachment 3953

So you're saying using 5/8" ID hose from the PCV to OCC to intake manifold would be fine?

 

[D1JL]

[MENTION=2268]GoMax[/MENTION]
The hose you call #2 is not a vent but the inlet air side of the PVC system.
I do not understand where everyone thinks there is boost pressure in the valve cover?
How would it get in there?

Remember that any pressure in the valve cover would also be in the oil pan.
If this were the case, we would all be ok launching dip sticks through the hood.

If you believe that you have a high enough pressure caused from blow by, then you have a more serious problem then the need for a catch can.

BTW, that PCV inlet hose is baffled in the valve cover.
Although I can see how some air can be siphoned into the turbo.
But if there were a lot of oil, it would be all over the compressor impellor and I have never heard of this.


Dave

 

[GoMax]

[MENTION=2268]GoMax[/MENTION]
The hose you call #2 is not a vent but the inlet air side of the PVC system.
I do not understand where everyone thinks there is boost pressure in the valve cover?
How would it get in there?

Remember that any pressure in the valve cover would also be in the oil pan.
If this were the case, we would all be ok launching dip sticks through the hood.

If you believe that you have a high enough pressure caused from blow by, then you have a more serious problem then the need for a catch can.

BTW, that PCV inlet hose is baffled in the valve cover.
Although I can see how some air can be siphoned into the turbo.
But if there were a lot of oil, it would be all over the compressor impellor and I have never heard of this.


Dave

Dave,

I may not have been clear - and for that I apologize.

My understanding is the the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system is always trying to vent the crankcase when the engine is running.
When the engine is at idle, the intake manifold is under vacuum, and the air is vented thru line #1.

My understanding is when the engine is under boost (at the intake manifold), the crankcase air still has to go somewhere.
Since line #1 is basically closed (from the PVC valve), the crankcase air can't exit via line #1.
In these conditions, I believe the venting must happen via line #2.
(You mention that Line #2 is an air inlet - and it very well may be - I am not totally sure WHAT line #2 is doing... to be honest!)

Line #2 isn't under boost, its under vacuum. From the intake side of line #2, we would see a vacuum (basically nil at idle, but higher under boost), and air would be pulled from the valve cover to the intake stream. No pressure to launch our dipsticks into orbit - thank goodness!

In line #1, when that line is under vacuum, we use an OCC to catch the excess oil, and prevent it from entering the intake.
In line #2, when that line is under vacuum, we.....do nothing....... my question was centered around if the second OCC was needed or not...

Clearly if Line #2 has an internal baffle, then they are already trying to contain that oil in the valve cover area, and prevent it from entering the Intake.
My questions was merely to confirm my understanding, and to see if we might need a second OCC.

From your statement, it seems like there is little if any evidence of a need.
(And I freely admit I could absolutely be completely befuddled and modeling this wrong - sorry if that is the case!).
--- Max

 

[MOFiST]

I've been meaning to pull my 'hose 2' to see if there's any oil residue on it. Only then will I be convinced of a need. Another guy I asked told me he'd pulled that said hose off and saw no oil residue. If there's no residue I seriously doubt it's an issue.

 

[D1JL]

As I said, I see how some air can be siphoned through that hose under load but I wouldn't think much.
I have had my intake tube off many times and I have never seen it wet.

Did you know that there is a factory oil separator on the engine?
I would post a picture but I am at work an no access to the shop manual.


Yokohama, I was stationed near there in the '70s.
Dave