Powerflex Motor Mount Inserts

[danbfree]

Installed the passenger side yellow insert last night. once again thanks to the forums I knew ahead of time what to do.
I did use a ziptie instead of the rubber oring they supplied.
I simply removed the headlight and moved the coolant overflow tank out of the way.
I did need a jack to help raise and lower the motor in order to get the mount on and off without fighting with it.
I was a little worried about added NVH but I can't honestly notice anymore than was already there.
Thanks again for those that contribute info.

Glad you got it installed easily with the info here, that is definitely the exact way to go... So which mounts did you have installed before this one? I ask because I really had quite a bit more vibes after adding my pineapple slice, but only had a 75a RMM before that... And contrary to people saying idle should be raised to help with vibes, with these engine mounts installed LOWER idle helps... my 900 RPM tune has FAR more vibes than my 800 RPM tune had, which was butter smooth, I had it adjusted to 850 for the perfect happy medium.

 

[M0LTEN]

I have had the AWR 75a installed for awhile now. I also have whatever idle comes with the canned stratified flash tune.
My car has idled like a mack truck since the RMM install. Putting the pineapple slice in made no discernible difference to me.
I can live with it but you can feel every thing coming from the motor like it was hardwired to my seat, lol.

 

[danbfree]

I have had the AWR 75a installed for awhile now. I also have whatever idle comes with the canned stratified flash tune.
My car has idled like a mack truck since the RMM install. Putting the pineapple slice in made no discernible difference to me.
I can live with it but you can feel every thing coming from the motor like it was hardwired to my seat, lol.

Yeah, that's weird, AWR at 70a somehow must have more vibes than my Torque Solutions 75a, as I only felt a bit of a lumpy idle like I was cammed if stopped facing uphill until I did the insert... how weird we got such different results! And yeah I *think* Stratified default might be 800 and it was butter smooth with both RMM and insert at that, and now at 850 I can hear and feel the car better but far from annoying... Come to think of it now, it's probably because my RMM is like Cobb and Vudu with the big dual bushing vs. the smaller bushing design on the AWR.

 

[bhmax]

Thanks to everyone for the info and pics. It helped in the install of the Powerflex street bushings in all 3 of my mounts. I put in a lightweight battery, changed the trans fluid, and changed the center passenger side mount bolt also. With my car being a 2016, there’s been some things that make me wonder exactly how much this year has been improved over the ‘14-15. I’ve never felt the clunk from the engine that others have mentioned that is supposedly improved with a RMM upgrade. That center passenger side mount bolt from mine has a 10.9 grade stamped on the top, do the earlier years have that? Another thing is the mention of ride quality improving on the ‘16+. Mine has seemed decent for what the car is, but my recent driving has been a BRZ with SpecR/Bilstein, so my perception may be skewed.

This being the first fwd car I’ve owned in 8 years, I wanted to add the inserts since it’s been said to improve traction and torque steer. I figured it might help make the mounts last and give the car a better feel also. I replaced front and rear bushings in the RMM. The rear is the version with 4 poly pieces, where the 2 inserts can be installed or not. I decided to put all the pieces in to see how it feels solid. I wasted time trying to remove the stock bushings with subpar tools. A machine shop got them out for me in 5-10 minutes(time to get a hydraulic press?). Everything went in fairly easily. I put the o-ring on the passenger mount, but then a wide zip tie on top of that.

I’m not sure if I feel any improvements for me after a couple of short drives yet. There are more vibes at cold high idle. The amount is ok for me after the idle revs drop and any other time during driving. The only negative so far is too much added bass noise while cruising in the 2500-3k rpm range. I like more added feel and noise while driving aggressively, but prefer not to have it while cruising. I’ll see if it reduces after more miles driven on the inserts. If not, I may pull out the rear RMM inserts to see if the added void space helps.

 

[bhmax]

I forgot to add, I also changed out the front 2 exhaust hangers with the Powerflex ones. That might change things also with regards to NVH. The front stock one seems very soft.

 

[danbfree]

Thanks to everyone for the info and pics. It helped in the install of the Powerflex street bushings in all 3 of my mounts. I put in a lightweight battery, changed the trans fluid, and changed the center passenger side mount bolt also. With my car being a 2016, there’s been some things that make me wonder exactly how much this year has been improved over the ‘14-15. I’ve never felt the clunk from the engine that others have mentioned that is supposedly improved with a RMM upgrade. That center passenger side mount bolt from mine has a 10.9 grade stamped on the top, do the earlier years have that? Another thing is the mention of ride quality improving on the ‘16+. Mine has seemed decent for what the car is, but my recent driving has been a BRZ with SpecR/Bilstein, so my perception may be skewed.

This being the first fwd car I’ve owned in 8 years, I wanted to add the inserts since it’s been said to improve traction and torque steer. I figured it might help make the mounts last and give the car a better feel also. I replaced front and rear bushings in the RMM. The rear is the version with 4 poly pieces, where the 2 inserts can be installed or not. I decided to put all the pieces in to see how it feels solid. I wasted time trying to remove the stock bushings with subpar tools. A machine shop got them out for me in 5-10 minutes(time to get a hydraulic press?). Everything went in fairly easily. I put the o-ring on the passenger mount, but then a wide zip tie on top of that.

I’m not sure if I feel any improvements for me after a couple of short drives yet. There are more vibes at cold high idle. The amount is ok for me after the idle revs drop and any other time during driving. The only negative so far is too much added bass noise while cruising in the 2500-3k rpm range. I like more added feel and noise while driving aggressively, but prefer not to have it while cruising. I’ll see if it reduces after more miles driven on the inserts. If not, I may pull out the rear RMM inserts to see if the added void space helps.

Good detail on your feedback, let me ask about the suspension: What month was your build date? I think it's late '16's built 6/16 or later that got the tweaked suspension... also, let me check my stock bolt and see what the grade is, I never thought about it, just heard the ARP is much stronger to handle the extra strain with a insert added in there. I still think that since the insert slice is thicker than the stock rubber to begin with that some people may want to replace with the yellow slice instead of adding for less vibes and would still help in general. Also, was thinking maybe you should have just done a separate RMM upgrade for around $100 and have your stock one to put back later instead of trying to dial in these bushing and paying for machine shop assistance. I could recommend one of the RMM that have the small and large dual bushing setup like Cobb, Vudu and Torque Solutions, having that big bushing there really helps keep the vibes down but also helps put the power down too... just a thought and again, nice write up!

 

[bhmax]

Good detail on your feedback, let me ask about the suspension: What month was your build date? I think it's late '16's built 6/16 or later that got the tweaked suspension... also, let me check my stock bolt and see what the grade is, I never thought about it, just heard the ARP is much stronger to handle the extra strain with a insert added in there. I still think that since the insert slice is thicker than the stock rubber to begin with that some people may want to replace with the yellow slice instead of adding for less vibes and would still help in general. Also, was thinking maybe you should have just done a separate RMM upgrade for around $100 and have your stock one to put back later instead of trying to dial in these bushing and paying for machine shop assistance. I could recommend one of the RMM that have the small and large dual bushing setup like Cobb, Vudu and Torque Solutions, having that big bushing there really helps keep the vibes down but also helps put the power down too... just a thought and again, nice write up!

Looks like my build date is 7/16. That may make a lot of sense on the ride quality reports I’ve seen. I’d like to try out a similar mileage ‘14-15 sometime over a bumpy road to see how it compares. I wonder if other changes such as engine mounts were made. Not too worried about my stock RMM, the machine shop only wanted $10. I’m sure I could find another if I needed, but I have a feeling I’ll be happy with this setup. I like to tinker, so it’ll be interesting to see if removing the “B” inserts might remove some of the bass noise if it continues. There’s a certain portion of a Whiteline rear diff bushing on the 86 platform that if left out, cuts down on noise transfer tremendously. Could be the same thing with the RMM bushing setup. It could be something else entirely such as the exhaust hanger though.

 

[danbfree]

Looks like my build date is 7/16. That may make a lot of sense on the ride quality reports I’ve seen. I’d like to try out a similar mileage ‘14-15 sometime over a bumpy road to see how it compares. I wonder if other changes such as engine mounts were made. Not too worried about my stock RMM, the machine shop only wanted $10. I’m sure I could find another if I needed, but I have a feeling I’ll be happy with this setup. I like to tinker, so it’ll be interesting to see if removing the “B” inserts might remove some of the bass noise if it continues. There’s a certain portion of a Whiteline rear diff bushing on the 86 platform that if left out, cuts down on noise transfer tremendously. Could be the same thing with the RMM bushing setup. It could be something else entirely such as the exhaust hanger though.

Yes, it will be cool to tinker and dial in the RMM stiffness and bass noise you're getting... hopefully since it's been done once already it will be easier but at least you got a hookup on cheap help there.

Anyway, the stock RMM was updated for all '16+ cars but still was known as barely adequate for a stock tune so you're doing the right thing beefing it up.

 

[danbfree]

Hi Jeff,

I could not have said it any better myself. Those are my thoughts EXACTLY!

Here is the part #: C1BZ-6068-C

It is known as an upper bracket. I got it from Gaudin Ford in Vegas. They had the cheapest part+shipping price. You might ping Steve@tasca who is a vendor on this forum and see what he can do for you. You're in GA so I am guessing shipping is going to be different for you than for me in PDX.

Here is what you have to do:

*Disconnect positive and negative terminals using 10mm socket. Be careful not to touch them together (I placed a piece of wood between the positive connector and the positive terminal because the cable is pretty short and likes to snap right back into place.

*Remove battery tie-down using 10mm socket. You may need a slightly deeper socket for this one. I am guessing you have that already. If not, you may want to get a metric deep socket set.

*Before removing the battery, remove the MAF sensor so it doesn't get bumped. It also allows more clearance for the tray and the battery to come out.

*Remove the battery

*You should see a few bolts in the bottom of the tray. IIRC, one of them is an 8mm so make sure to have that size handy.

*Remove the induction hose so you can more easily access the ECU connectors.

*This next part was the most difficult, mostly because the ECU connectors are fragile and can be a headache if broken.

*The ECU connectors have a little tab that you have to push down and at the same time you pull the little white lever back until you hear a click. You can then pull them out. There are two. The bottom one is at a weird angle so be careful how you are pulling. (This forum post on the Boomba bushing install has a great explanation: http://www.fiestast.org/forum/fiest...-racing-shifter-bracket-bushings-install.html)

*Remove the 10 mm bolts for the battery tray and carefully remove the entire tray. Be careful of the exposed pins that the ECU connectors plug into. I would cover it with a towel so minimize any potential damage.

*You will now see the black plate that covers the mount. Remove the bolts to allow it to be wiggled free. This is where you may need two people. I had my dad pull up on the airbox while I wiggled that black plate over the bolt. The plate has a downward facing lip that makes it difficult to clear the bolt that is sticking up. If you don't have two people or don't want to deal with that, just remove the airbox.

*Jack the transmission up. I needed to put the car on Rhino Ramps to get my jack to clear under the front bumper. It's the same procedure that you did with the passenger-side, except you want to jack the transmission up. You don't have to jack it up very far, just enough to relieve the tension on it.

*You can now get to the mount. It has both 18mm and 15mm bolts. The upper bolts are 18mm and the lower bolts are 15mm, just as the passenger-side.

*Remove the mount from the car.

*Push the insert into the new mount. Make sure to coat the entire insert in lithium grease of CV joint grease. In addition to making it easier to push in, it will help prevent squeaking. Make sure to use both insert pieces as that small piece will hold the insert in place!

*Install new mount and tighten 18mm large bolts to 125nm (92.2 ft-lbs) and 15mm to 89nm (65.64 ft-lbs).

*Release jack to allow transmission to sit at correct height.

*Reinstall black plate and tighten bolts. Again, you may need two people if you haven't removed the airbox to get the plate in the correct position.

*Reinstall battery tray with bolts and reconnect ECU connectors.

*Reinstall battery and plug ECU connectors back in.

*Reinstall battery tie-down.

*Reinstall induction hose and plug MAF sensor back in.

*Reinstall battery connectors.

*Enjoy your new mount!

Here is a video that will show you how to remove the battery tray and induction hose: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6Ju0TxeWMI&t=109s&index=4&list=WL

I hope this helps. Removing the ECU connectors, battery tray, and black plate are the most difficult part.

It was easy to wiggle the black plate right off, what the problem is not being able to get the 2 side 15mm screws tightened back down, they simply won't thread back down, what a nightmare... I have no idea what I'm going to do.

Edit: Finally got one top thread back in smoothly and one I had to just reef down, was able to get it all torqued down properly.... lesson here is to be careful as after the insert is in, the poly sticks out and can catch the edge where there the metal comes together on the side, so gotta get the mount placed in from the side, not drop down, and hold it up against the side while getting those 2 side bolts first, then get those 3 silver ones torqued down.

 

[DieselMech]

I have had the AWR 75a installed for awhile now. I also have whatever idle comes with the canned stratified flash tune.
My car has idled like a mack truck since the RMM install. Putting the pineapple slice in made no discernible difference to me.
I can live with it but you can feel every thing coming from the motor like it was hardwired to my seat, lol.

I know this is an old thread but I have the same RMM and power flex inserts and holy shit do I get some vibes, especially with the ac on. But racecar life [emoji869]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[danbfree]

I know this is an old thread but I have the same RMM and power flex inserts and holy shit do I get some vibes, especially with the ac on. But racecar life [emoji869]

Just to clarify, the AWR is a 70a bushing, but because it's a small bushing design and not like the big bushing clones like Bobb/Vudu/Whoosh/Torque Solutions, it acts more like an 80a if it was of the big bushing design. Having small bushings, there is less material before the tension hits metal vs. additional area for more give on the big bushing ones. I can safely say this as I have the Torque Solutions that is a 75a and I had almost zero vibes at all until I did the upper mount inserts. Now I can tell I'd like a little stiffer. So it may sound weird, but I may go from my 75a to the AWR 70a because of this... And for those wondering, I know it was the old post that was quoted about it, 850 is the perfect idle speed if you have any upgraded mount at all, that's what Dizzy sets by default. I did try both 850 and 900, and 850 is the sweet spot, I'm surprised that Strat doesn't use 850 for their default, but they use the factory 750. But, I'm surprised you're getting so many vibes with just the AWR 70a and the street inserts, maybe you need to have your idle at 850 as well?

 

[DieselMech]

Just to clarify, the AWR is a 70a bushing, but because it's a small bushing design and not like the big bushing clones like Bobb/Vudu/Whoosh/Torque Solutions, it acts more like an 80a if it was of the big bushing design. Having small bushings, there is less material before the tension hits metal vs. additional area for more give on the big bushing ones. I can safely say this as I have the Torque Solutions that is a 75a and I had almost zero vibes at all until I did the upper mount inserts. Now I can tell I'd like a little stiffer. So it may sound weird, but I may go from my 75a to the AWR 70a because of this... And for those wondering, I know it was the old post that was quoted about it, 850 is the perfect idle speed if you have any upgraded mount at all, that's what Dizzy sets by default. I did try both 850 and 900, and 850 is the sweet spot, I'm surprised that Strat doesn't use 850 for their default, but they use the factory 750. But, I'm surprised you're getting so many vibes with just the AWR 70a and the street inserts, maybe you need to have your idle at 850 as well?

Oh I absolutely do, I plan on getting a flash tune from dizzy next week. Car shifts amazing and holds the motor tight. My speed3 had a balance shaft delete and all cpe mounts so these vibes aren’t as much as those but definitely there lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[danbfree]

Oh I absolutely do, I plan on getting a flash tune from dizzy next week. Car shifts amazing and holds the motor tight. My speed3 had a balance shaft delete and all cpe mounts so these vibes aren’t as much as those but definitely there lol

Right on, I absolutely LOVE my Dizzy tune. After going with Stratified early due to them simply being the most popular at the time/had the most word of mouth, I'm glad I went with Dizzy just for the free e30 when Jason launched his V2 in October, that also added in the newer Cobb features that Stratified had previously already... So yeah, 850 is the Dizzy default for idle, I think you'll find it just right. I just uninstalled my AP before bringing in my car to the dealer, which, first of all is weird to me as I have just over 20k miles on my car and I've been tuned since 1500 miles, it feels under powered now, but my exhaust is louder for some reason? Maybe richer tune? But the factory 750 idle RPM is WAY too quiet, I feel like I'm in an electric or electric car, hehe... but yeah, still not much vibes due to my fairly soft RMM, if you want to trade RMM's let me know! hehe

 

[danbfree]

Oh, since this is the Powerflex upper mount insert thread, thought I'd share something I've learned... If you are already lowered and don't want too many vibes or too nailed down of a ride where you have zero body lean in curves, then you might want to skip these... and vice versa, if you aren't lowered and/or want to be nailed down as much as possible, then these are a bargain for how much they help! After recommending these a lot on the FB groups too, one of the guys who got them based on my suggestion actually is taking them out because of this. He already has a stiff RMM and Swift springs and these put him over the top into too rough and too flat handling for him.

 

[bhmax]

I’ve had this installed for about 2500mi. I did a track day on a kart track (briefly getting into 3rd gear) and started getting a thumping noise after it. Found it I guess! I’ve been running Dizzy’s e40a tune. I guess the large rear street insert, at least without the smaller inserts that leave the voids like I was doing, isn’t great long term.

 

[danbfree]

View attachment 20416

I’ve had this installed for about 2500mi. I did a track day on a kart track (briefly getting into 3rd gear) and started getting a thumping noise after it. Found it I guess! I’ve been running Dizzy’s e40a tune. I guess the large rear street insert, at least without the smaller inserts that leave the voids like I was doing, isn’t great long term.

Thanks for the feedback on the actual RMM inserts, hadn't heard much about them before... So I guess this is one reason to invest in a full RMM instead of the inserts here at least...

 

[DieselMech]

View attachment 20416

I’ve had this installed for about 2500mi. I did a track day on a kart track (briefly getting into 3rd gear) and started getting a thumping noise after it. Found it I guess! I’ve been running Dizzy’s e40a tune. I guess the large rear street insert, at least without the smaller inserts that leave the voids like I was doing, isn’t great long term.

Given that it was a track day that killed it I would think spirited driving on the road wouldn’t cause this. Still good info to share though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Clint Beastwood]

View attachment 20416
I guess the large rear street insert, at least without the smaller inserts that leave the voids like I was doing, isn’t great long term.

Does that mean you only installed part of the mount?

 

[ron@whoosh]

View attachment 20416

I’ve had this installed for about 2500mi. I did a track day on a kart track (briefly getting into 3rd gear) and started getting a thumping noise after it. Found it I guess! I’ve been running Dizzy’s e40a tune. I guess the large rear street insert, at least without the smaller inserts that leave the voids like I was doing, isn’t great long term.

Powerflex will replace that bushing, please fill out the form and send it in
https://www.powerflexusa.com/lifetime-warranty

 

[bhmax]

Does that mean you only installed part of the mount?

Correct. Actually, I ran it both ways that the Powerflex directions say you can have it, but mostly without the inserts. There are two smaller inserts that fill those 4 slots around the center which in effect can make it a solid mount.