Mountune Fiesta ST Radiator Upgrade

[KraZe]

Fair point, but so far it doesn't seem like the Mountune unit would be sufficient for track use.

I very much hope it is (or I'll be PISSED). I have a track day on July 30. Last time I overheated in 2-3 laps, so we'll see how good (or bad) this radiator really is.

 

[Brura22]

I very much hope it is (or I'll be PISSED). I have a track day on July 30. Last time I overheated in 2-3 laps, so we'll see how good (or bad) this radiator really is.

I'm pretty positive it'll be just fine.


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[alexrex20]

Fair point, but so far it doesn't seem like the Mountune unit would be sufficient for track use.

Based on what data? Because there are plenty of people that track their FiST with a stock radiator and do not have overheating problems.

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[DvC]

Based on what data? Because there are plenty of people that track their FiST with a stock radiator and do not have overheating problems.

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Care to post up examples? Haven't seen one

 

[jayrod1980]

On my freeway drive home at 75 mph the temps hovered around 220 oil and 205-207 coolant. The thing I find interesting is that the temps come down a lot quicker then with the stock unit. Both coolant and oil will shoot down in temp vs before where they would slowly come down.

I have a tune by Adam with Tune+, and don't quote me on this, but I believe he does have the fan kick in more agressively. I originally thought the thermostat was a 185F thermostat because when the weather is more temperate my coolant sticks to 185F. Also, I always use auto for climate control.

I'm shooting for a Sunday night install, so I'll have my metrics for you all by Monday night. On my trip out to Havasu, the car did fine. I never went above 214F on the stick radiator, but I had plenty of airflow because of my rate of travel. Once into town the outside temperature was around 110F and temps stayed around 221F and I made it to my destination without sitting in much traffic.

Does anyone know how much having worn plugs or a leaky DV (more wastegate duty etc) effect engine heat? I did my 15K spark plug change with Tune+ gapped plugs (I always buy one step colder plugs from him), as well as installed a DV+ in my car. Maybe it's a placebo but I notice the car operated a bit cooler overall. Normally my car is a dog in this heat and I have to baby the throttle to stay out of 230F+ coolant temps.

Edit: Big shout out to Ron@woosh for ridiculous prices and really fast shipping on the DV+. It was a hard decision to go Mountune over the price he's offering the Mishimoto radiator. In the end I just wanted more clearance in the engine Bay in case I buy an aux fuel kit. I'm sure if this radiator turns out to be comparable to the cooling of the Mishimoto, once the promotional price of the Mountune goes up that we will have decent third party vendors like Ron offer it near what Mountune is selling it currently.

 

[jayrod1980]

In comparison, I drove home at 85 mph for 3 hrs in over 107 degrees with the mishi unit, and my temps didn't go over 195-200

Those are good temps, but the stock unit has the hard time in my experience with stop and go traffic. Without the airflow at highway speed it doesn't shed heat well. I'll drive the same type of conditions you do and be fine, but it can overheat in 95F weather if stuck in heavy traffic for a long time with the A/C on.

 

[jayrod1980]

I very much hope it is (or I'll be PISSED). I have a track day on July 30. Last time I overheated in 2-3 laps, so we'll see how good (or bad) this radiator really is.

Any reason why you didn't go with a 70/30 or 75/25 water to coolant ratio? You should get more heat shedding with that as opposed to 50/50, and PR never gets cold enough to need protection from temps lower than 20F. I used to use Watter Wetter until reading about it gunking up in Dex based radiator coolant, which our coolant is.

 

[koozy]

t was a hard decision to go Mountune over the price he's offering the Mishimoto radiator. In the end I just wanted more clearance in the engine Bay in case I buy an aux fuel kit. I'm sure if this radiator turns out to be comparable to the cooling of the Mishimoto, once the promotional price of the Mountune goes up that we will have decent third party vendors like Ron offer it near what Mountune is selling it currently.

FWIW, Aux Fuel clears the Mishimoto radiator no problem. The only components i'm aware of that may have clearances issues with the Mishi Rad are intake manifold spacers and cold side charge pipes other than Mishi's.

 

[codestp202]

Any reason why you didn't go with a 70/30 or 75/25 water to coolant ratio? You should get more heat shedding with that as opposed to 50/50, and PR never gets cold enough to need protection from temps lower than 20F. I used to use Watter Wetter until reading about it gunking up in Dex based radiator coolant, which our coolant is.

I'm running like 75/25 with Royal Purple's "purple Ice". It hasn't gunked up at all and worked really well. I think it's an easy mod for people with stock rads to at least reduce the coolant mixture.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I'm running like 75/25 with Royal Purple's "purple Ice". It hasn't gunked up at all and worked really well. I think it's an easy mod for people with stock rads to at least reduce the coolant mixture.

The Red Line product seems to be the only one which does this in a Dex Cool chemistry, and even then, it is only their red/pink version, not their diesel blue version.

The rest (RP Purple Ice, Motul MoCool, LubeGard Cool-It, etc.) have been fine in my testing/experience with Dex Cool mixes in my LS1 Z28.

 

[M-Sport fan]

FWIW, Aux Fuel clears the Mishimoto radiator no problem. The only components i'm aware of that may have clearances issues with the Mishi Rad are intake manifold spacers and cold side charge pipes other than Mishi's.

I believe that jayrod was referring to the coming, in development 4 port injector systems, which like the manifold spacers you cite above, will take up more room than your single TB injector aux fuel system.

Again, I am NOT knocking the Mishi radiator at all, as it has been proven to work, and contrary to my previous concerns/worries, seems to be holding up quality/longevity wise as well.

 

[jayrod1980]

FWIW, Aux Fuel clears the Mishimoto radiator no problem. The only components i'm aware of that may have clearances issues with the Mishi Rad are intake manifold spacers and cold side charge pipes other than Mishi's.

Thanks for the info! In my case, I'd be in a pickle, I have the MAP cold pipe.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I'm sure if this radiator turns out to be comparable to the cooling of the Mishimoto, once the promotional price of the Mountune goes up that we will have decent third party vendors like Ron offer it near what Mountune is selling it currently.

Sadly, Mountune gives vendors like Ron very little (IF even any at all) margin room on selling their products, to the point that Ron himself will tell you (to his magnanimous credit! ) to just buy what you need from them directly during one of their holiday sales events, IF you must have Mountune.

I know this because he told me that when I spoke to him directly on the phone about purchasing their boost/charge hose kit from Whoosh.

 

[codestp202]

Sadly, Mountune gives vendors like Ron very little (IF even any at all) margin room on selling their products, to the point that Ron himself will tell you (to his magnanimous credit! ) to just buy what you need from them directly during one of their holiday sales events, IF you must have Mountune.

I know this because he told me that when I spoke to him directly on the phone about purchasing their boost/charge hose kit from Whoosh.

Ron is the MVP

 

[Genya]

This thread needs more product pictures? ^_^ I already have a radiator but curious.

 

[KraZe]

Any reason why you didn't go with a 70/30 or 75/25 water to coolant ratio? You should get more heat shedding with that as opposed to 50/50, and PR never gets cold enough to need protection from temps lower than 20F. I used to use Watter Wetter until reading about it gunking up in Dex based radiator coolant, which our coolant is.

Does it really gunk up inside? I've heard mixed reviews but almost everyone here in PR who tracks their car uses it so I took their word for it. And yes it's the Red/Pink version I used. Please tell me I didn't potentially fuck up my cooling system.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Does it really gunk up inside? I've heard mixed reviews but almost everyone here in PR who tracks their car uses it so I took their word for it. And yes it's the Red/Pink version I used. Please tell me I didn't potentially fuck up my cooling system.

Mainly with 30% or higher concentrations of Dex Cool chemistry coolants.

In 100% water, it is fine.

If you are worried, dump that mixture, flush the system (yeah, I know it's a pain with the bleeding and all ) and install a 25/75, or 30/70 mixture, and use one of the other brand additives if you feel the need.

 

[Brura22]

Wrong post lol delete plz

 

[jayrod1980]

Alright... after about 8 hours of BS I got my Mountune radiator installed. I had the intent of making a good guide but had so many issues and it took hours more time that I would have thought.

In hindsight I would have just taken the bumper off and installed it... didn't save me much time. If you have a lift, dropping the stocker out the bottom is a good option. In fact, I didn't have a tall enough jack but still tilted both radiators and ended up installing from the bottom.

Before I got started I managed to over shoot my rhino ramps, sucking them under my car and denting my side skirts. Hoping a heat gun later will relax it to its original shape.

After recovering from the ramp disaster I proceeded to drain the radiator and start taking out the headlights, the cold side charge pipe, the intake, etc. Had lots of roaches to keep me company under the car.

Trying to remove anything other than the shroud through the top is going to result in bending fins and getting caught on parts. Having to remove first the shroud, then the radiator, while leaving the condenser in its place is slow going with the bumper on.

Do yourself a big freaking favor! Buy some worm clamps for those radiator lines before you tackle this project. Between the rim of the new radiator connectors and one hose that runs into the engine, I don't know how long I spent trying to compress the original spring clamps to get the hoses back on. After two hours of trying on one of them, I miraculously found a small t-clamp to use in the spring clamp's place for the moment.

Again, installing with just the slit between the engine and the condenser is difficult. Make sure you loosen up the feet on the radiator. Condenser and shroud tabs are a nightmare without pre-loosening the feet/tabs.

The radiator is thicker than stock and it was extremely tight with my MAP cold side charge pipe. The pipe actually touches the fan shroud, but it doesn't impede operation, and it's not likely to melt the shroud being that it's pulling the intercooled air into the engine.

I wasn't able to install it without bending a few fins unfortunately with such a tiny space to work in. The way I tried to do this was harder and took longer to install than my DHM Intercooler and crashpipe. Just install it with a lift or like the Mishimoto video and you will save yourself some frustration.

Too early to really know how much better the Mountune cools, but at least nothing is leaking and the vehicle seems to cool down quicker.

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[Turbo65]

Alright... after about 8 hours of BS I got my Mountune radiator installed. I had the intent of making a good guide but had so many issues and it took hours more time that I would have thought.

In hindsight I would have just taken the bumper off and installed it... didn't save me much time. If you have a lift, dropping the stocker out the bottom is a good option. In fact, I didn't have a tall enough jack but still tilted both radiators and ended up installing from the bottom.

Before I got started I managed to over shoot my rhino ramps, sucking them under my car and denting my side skirts. Hoping a heat gun later will relax it to its original shape.

After recovering from the ramp disaster I proceeded to drain the radiator and start taking out the headlights, the cold side charge pipe, the intake, etc. Had lots of roaches to keep me company under the car.

Trying to remove anything other than the shroud through the top is going to result in bending fins and getting caught on parts. Having to remove first the shroud, then the radiator, while leaving the condenser in its place is slow going with the bumper on.

Do yourself a big freaking favor! Buy some worm clamps for those radiator lines before you tackle this project. Between the rim of the new radiator connectors and one hose that runs into the engine, I don't know how long I spent trying to compress the original spring clamps to get the hoses back on. After two hours of trying on one of them, I miraculously found a small t-clamp to use in the spring clamp's place for the moment.

Again, installing with just the slit between the engine and the condenser is difficult. Make sure you loosen up the feet on the radiator. Condenser and shroud tabs are a nightmare without pre-loosening the feet/tabs.

The radiator is thicker than stock and it was extremely tight with my MAP cold side charge pipe. The pipe actually touches the fan shroud, but it doesn't impede operation, and it's not likely to melt the shroud being that it's pulling the intercooled air into the engine.

I wasn't able to install it without bending a few fins unfortunately with such a tiny space to work in. The way I tried to do this was harder and took longer to install than my DHM Intercooler and crashpipe. Just install it with a lift or like the Mishimoto video and you will save yourself some frustration.

Too early to really know how much better the Mountune cools, but at least nothing is leaking and the vehicle seems to cool down quicker.

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Looking forward to you your thoughts on it's cooling capabilities. I'm sitting on the fence on this one still