Mountune Fiesta ST Radiator Upgrade

[thePete]

thanks for confirming this

Actually, I stand corrected. Every other model goes out the bottom (fusion, focus, transit, transit connect, etc)

I just looked at the actual wsm, and it says remove the shroud and pull it out the top. Looking at my own car, there's tons of space for it. I don't see why people are pulling off the whole bumper skin. There are literally 5 steps in the wsm rad removal procedure. Warranty time is only 1.2hrs. So no, removing the bumper skin is in no way required.


Thinking about it a bit more, I think they probably drop it out the bottom because; A: They have a hoist, so they can. B: Doing it that way allows you to drop the entire unit, with the fan shroud and rad as one piece, so transferring and reinstalling as a complete unit might be a little more straight forward. Ford wants you to pull the rad shroud out the top, then pull the rad out after it.

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[KraZe]

If there's a way to install this without removing the crash bar I want to know. Mountune said there's no instructions manual because "it installs just like the factory one" as if I'm supposed to know how to do that. Hell I still don't know how to remove the oem bleed screw without breaking it.

 

[thePete]

I just outlined how.

Workshop manual says pull the shroud then pull the rad out the top. Between the engine and the upper support. Eta: I'm a dealership tech. I looked it up this morning to be sure after I made my initial reply about dropping it out the bottom.

Mountune likely does it out the bottom so they can take the rad and shroud out as an assembly.

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[lemons6245]

So I performed the install tonight. I don't see how they get it out from the top. I took the shroud off first then the rad. Kinda a pain in the add to get out but only took about an hour and a half to maybe 2 hours.

From the bottom to get enough room I have to remove the lower intercooler hose and intake box. Only thing I haven't done is put coolant back in. The factory bleeder screw came out of the stock unit easy. I used a pick and patients and it popped out. It does spin on the mountune unit. To loosed screw you will need to hold the base.

Only thing at the moment i see might be an issue is the a/c condenser. Rattles on the mountune unit. Will update after I put a few miles on it.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Does Ford sell the bleeder screw separately, without having to buy a whole new factory radiator to get one??

 

[lemons6245]

Yes they do. I ordered one just in case it was $7 from ford

 

[CanadianGuy]

Yes they do. I ordered one just in case it was $7 from ford

Part number?

 

[M-Sport fan]

Yes they do. I ordered one just in case it was $7 from ford

THANK YOU!

 

[lemons6245]

C1bz-8c362-a

 

[CanadianGuy]

C1bz-8c362-a

Thank you sir!

 

[jayrod1980]

So I performed the install tonight. I don't see how they get it out from the top. I took the shroud off first then the rad. Kinda a pain in the add to get out but only took about an hour and a half to maybe 2 hours.

From the bottom to get enough room I have to remove the lower intercooler hose and intake box. Only thing I haven't done is put coolant back in. The factory bleeder screw came out of the stock unit easy. I used a pick and patients and it popped out. It does spin on the mountune unit. To loosed screw you will need to hold the base.

Only thing at the moment i see might be an issue is the a/c condenser. Rattles on the mountune unit. Will update after I put a few miles on it.

A couple questions for you... how far did you lift the car to get it out the bottom? This is without taking off the bumper? Also, have you figured what is causing the rattle? I'm wondering if some foam on the edges would prevent the condenser/radiator rattle. What is the difference in temps? Is the radiator any larger than stock, and how much more coolant does it hold?

Also, for the member who is a service tech... does the manual have you remove anything other than the intake box and headlights to get the radiator out of the top? It seems like the shroud clips in and out pretty easily from my time under the car, but I don't want to break any lines or mess up the condenser getting it out. The safe choice seems taking off the bumper but I'd also like to save myself 5 hours of work.

I purchased the radiator on Friday, and sourced a new bleeder screw from Tasca just in case.

 

[lemons6245]

A couple questions for you... how far did you lift the car to get it out the bottom? This is without taking off the bumper? Also, have you figured what is causing the rattle? I'm wondering if some foam on the edges would prevent the condenser/radiator rattle. What is the difference in temps? Is the radiator any larger than stock, and how much more coolant does it hold?

Also, for the member who is a service tech... does the manual have you remove anything other than the intake box and headlights to get the radiator out of the top? It seems like the shroud clips in and out pretty easily from my time under the car, but I don't want to break any lines or mess up the condenser getting it out. The safe choice seems taking off the bumper but I'd also like to save myself 5 hours of work.

I purchased the radiator on Friday, and sourced a new bleeder screw from Tasca just in case.

I would say a couple feet off the ground and yes he bumper stayed on the entire time. While the vehicle is sitting and you touch the top of the condenser where the sitting is to evac freon you can hear a rattle. The space inbetween the "fingers" that hold the condenser to the radiator are a little loose. While you are driving you dont hear anything.

So far the temps while street driving normal speed are between 199-204 degrees. The highest so far on the freeway I have seen is somwhere around 220 I want to say. I would say it is a little better then what I remember the temps when stock. The bigger thing is with the oil. When the vehicle is up to temp the oil doesnt skyrocket when im in the city or on the freeway. in the city the temp is around 200ish and on the freeway around 219 where as before city would have been around 220 and freeway 235. This is all on the accessport and I dont believe those are true accurate numbers. I bled the systen but I am not sure if there are any air pockets in the system still.

I know it holds more coolant. I put 3/4 of a bottle of premixed ford coolant and a full 1 gallon of distilled water.

To be honest it seems more scary then it is. I didnt see any possible way to get it out fron the top. If you take your time and have a buddy help you from the top it wont be that bad. You dont have to take the headlights out. I didnt. When I put the radiator in I kept the blue plastic shielding on it when putting it up so that I wouldn't damage any of the fins. I had my buddy hold it while I removed the shielding then fitted everything into place.

 

[jayrod1980]

I would say a couple feet off the ground and yes he bumper stayed on the entire time. While the vehicle is sitting and you touch the top of the condenser where the sitting is to evac freon you can hear a rattle. The space inbetween the "fingers" that hold the condenser to the radiator are a little loose. While you are driving you dont hear anything.

So far the temps while street driving normal speed are between 199-204 degrees. The highest so far on the freeway I have seen is somwhere around 220 I want to say. I would say it is a little better then what I remember the temps when stock. The bigger thing is with the oil. When the vehicle is up to temp the oil doesnt skyrocket when im in the city or on the freeway. in the city the temp is around 200ish and on the freeway around 219 where as before city would have been around 220 and freeway 235. This is all on the accessport and I dont believe those are true accurate numbers. I bled the systen but I am not sure if there are any air pockets in the system still.

I know it holds more coolant. I put 3/4 of a bottle of premixed ford coolant and a full 1 gallon of distilled water.

To be honest it seems more scary then it is. I didnt see any possible way to get it out fron the top. If you take your time and have a buddy help you from the top it wont be that bad. You dont have to take the headlights out. I didnt. When I put the radiator in I kept the blue plastic shielding on it when putting it up so that I wouldn't damage any of the fins. I had my buddy hold it while I removed the shielding then fitted everything into place.

Thank you much for the answers. My Mountune radiator is on the way... I'm a little bummed that it still gets up to 220F. I think the Mishimoto radiator might work better, the leaky bleed screw issue notwithstanding.

I guess I'll have to see when I put it in on Wednesday.


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[codestp202]

220 on the freeway is insane. I have the Mishi unit and an oil cooler that I built. It was 107 (edit:degrees outside...) at thunderhill the other weekend, I was 7 hotlaps in and my coolant never went over 225, oil around 235-240.

 

[Brura22]

220 on the freeway is insane. I have the Mishi unit and an oil cooler that I built. It was 107 at thunderhill the other weekend, I was 7 hotlaps in and my coolant never went over 225, oil around 235-240.

107? That's a joke.
I'd actually be afraid that my oil was too cold at 107 to be properly lubricating

Just cause he's at 220 doesn't mean he would go above 220 on a track... might just be what the thermostat is keeping the coolant at during a long highway trip.



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[codestp202]

107? That's a joke.
I'd actually be afraid that my oil was too cold at 107 to be properly lubricating

Just cause he's at 220 doesn't mean he would go above 220 on a track... might just be what the thermostat is keeping the coolant at during a long highway trip.



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The temperature outside homie. I said the oil was 235-240.

220 is super hot on the highway, the stock thermostat would not keep it that hot on purpose.

 

[Brura22]

I meant the temperature outside homie

Oh well then yeah that makes perfect sense.
220ish is where it's supposed to be at.
The thermostat will bring it up to there and keep it there.
A freeway drive should reach thermostat temp, not below it.


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[jayrod1980]

Sorry Brura22, that's incorrect. The thermostat is a 185F for stock. If the temps are reaching 220F on the free way, then that's worse than stock for me at anything under 80MPH and 115F outside.

I'll be another guinea pig for this radiator and let you all know in a day or two what temps I observe. Mine will be at my doorstep by 8pm tomorrow night.

 

[Brura22]

Sorry Brura22, that's incorrect. The thermostat is a 185F for stock. If the temps are reaching 220F on the free way, then that's worse than stock for me at anything under 80MPH and 115F outside.

I'll be another guinea pig for this radiator and let you all know in a day or two what temps I observe. Mine will be at my doorstep by 8pm tomorrow night.

Yeah you're also wrong. The factory ford USDM thermostat is 208 according to the service manual.

The Mishi low temp thermostat is 165 though [emoji6]

And clearly temps won't stay at exactly 208. Or your thermostat would be popping open and shut constantly. It's gonna hover around it. 12 degrees above thermostat sounds about right


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[koozy]

from ford service manual