Mountune Fiesta MRX Turbo

[BADWOLF]

These are perfect for the coolant lines. I lost about a tablespoon during the install.

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[GotVic]

These are perfect for the coolant lines. I lost about a tablespoon during the install.

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What am I looking at?

 

[drcoopster]

What am I looking at?

Those are clamps for the rubber coolant lines so that you can disconnect them while minimizing fluid loss.

 

[GotVic]

Those are clamps for the rubber coolant lines so that you can disconnect them while minimizing fluid loss.

Ah, it pinches them closed?

 

[BADWOLF]

Yep

Ah, it pinches them closed?

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[denveryettie]

Is there any concern with tightening it too much since it has that copper washer or crank it as tight as humanly possible?

I'm struggling with this too, I have a little leak from the coolant banjo bolt and it seems like I have to remove that L-shaped oil line with the accordion bend at a minumum (maybe more) just to get enough space to tighten that bolt.

So the coolant banjos have to be really tight so crank on it as much as you can. it wont hurt it. I mean I tightened them with a buddy holding the fitting to make sure that it stayed straight and after a few days I saw a couple drops of coolant. I lifted it up and it was coming from the banjo that connects the coolant line that runs just over the top of the drive line. I tightened it just a tiny bit more and there has not been an issue. That said, not all the fittings are that way. The supplied coolant lines dont have to be that way as they are flared. I wrecked one of mine, that attaches to the same banjo I spoke of previously and had to get a new line made.

As for that oil drain line. That was another nightmare. I broke my first one, had to buy a new one from Ford. Do yourself a favor and leave that line bolted to the block. You just have to manhandle it over the studs while being careful of the gasket. I ended up getting it connected first and then maneuver the turbo to the vband. (likely a reason I had such a hard time getting it mated together) Do yourself another favor, and get the vband seated before installing. That one step took me as much time as most of the install and I broke 2 vband clamps in the process. There isnt a lot of room to work with and Im still haunted by that install.

 

[wraith]

after a few days I saw a couple drops of coolant. I lifted it up and it was coming from the banjo that connects the coolant line that runs just over the top of the drive line.

This is EXACTLY the problem I have now. I bought this wrench for the sole purpose of tightening that particular banjo bolt:



But the wrench isn't working out so well. If I get the ratcheting side on the banjo bolt at all (which is hard to get straight-on, always forces a weird crooked angle) I only got it to move enough for a click in the wrench once. I'm also starting to strip the top corners of the bolt head because it's tough to get the wrench fully on.

Is there a better tool for this? I know the higher end ratcheting wrenches have less play before they click but it's tough finding many at the size of 21mm.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

This is EXACTLY the problem I have now. I bought this wrench for the sole purpose of tightening that particular banjo bolt:

View attachment 18636

But the wrench isn't working out so well. If I get the ratcheting side on the banjo bolt at all (which is hard to get straight-on, always forces a weird crooked angle) I only got it to move enough for a click in the wrench once. I'm also starting to strip the top corners of the bolt head because it's tough to get the wrench fully on.

Is there a better tool for this? I know the higher end ratcheting wrenches have less play before they click but it's tough finding many at the size of 21mm.

Talk to the local Snap on dealer....they make weird angle thin headed wrenches....or modify one for the job. I have some in my Tool box....I'll see if I can find it it wasnt cheap though I remember.

I this is it.... I think they can be bought separately also. Made of gold they are!

https://store.snapon.com/Ratcheting...ation-Wrench-Set-10-ndash-19-mm--P888289.aspx

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[denveryettie]

This is EXACTLY the problem I have now. I bought this wrench for the sole purpose of tightening that particular banjo bolt:

View attachment 18636

But the wrench isn't working out so well. If I get the ratcheting side on the banjo bolt at all (which is hard to get straight-on, always forces a weird crooked angle) I only got it to move enough for a click in the wrench once. I'm also starting to strip the top corners of the bolt head because it's tough to get the wrench fully on.

Is there a better tool for this? I know the higher end ratcheting wrenches have less play before they click but it's tough finding many at the size of 21mm.

I just used a ratchet and socket to get it. There was enough room for me to hit it. Tho I might have used a stubby. Those stubbys have gotten a ton of use from this car.

 

[Willouwc196]

So I’m running a cobb stage 3 and bought this turbo kit. Immediately ran into problems with the charge pipe mountune sent me as its significantly smaller than the one I have now. Do I need mountunes charge pipe or do I need to use the stock pipe? So confused.

 

[Se7eN]

I'm pretty sure it should be the stock pipe.

 

[Se7eN]

The pulls on Youtube are my car, in Mexico of course. No formal dyno and I dont run WOT in 1st to preserve the axles and side bearings in the transmissions, the known weak points for these cars (aside from leaky axle seals even stock). Vdyno from yesterday, SAE, adjusted for temps and barometric pressure incorporating altitude adjustments are shown here. From real world, closest I can tell you is it runs about a half a car length to 3/4 behind my buddy's from 40-110mph and he has a larger turbo and a true dyno of 305whp/290wtq on pump 93, about 350whp on E40, redlines at 7250. My car is a wee bit lighter, about 100lbs but I kept the rev limiter at 6600, so that accounts for some of the variables. We ran with him at 93 octane and myself at my E22 blend. I would say I safely am at 280-285whp which is great for this little beastie. Youtube videos are about the same temps as our runs fyi. I will say that at below temps in the 60's, the car sometimes nips mid-290's to barely 300whp is the highest I have seen. When you get to 85-100 degrees, vdyno's are in the 270-275 range. Very safe as requested of Randy.

Red (3rd gear) and blue (4th gear) are two days ago runs, as you can see very consistent with a good log. Green is with temps at about 44 degrees a few months ago. The torque is overestimated due to a bit of wheel slip at peak torque for the cold run, but its easily 10hp over what it is right now when you factor out that hump. E22 blend for all the runs, about 94.5 octane, but no additional timing over 93 maps explaining why they arent higher. I just wanted the safety net for knock/etc, fueling is adjusted accordingly. This is on the non-billet WGA fyi. Regarding the weight (asked previously), back seat is out, spare is out, lightweight wheels and brakes, lightweight battery, washer reservoir removed, but intercooler is a bit heavier. Weighed in at 2580 without me in it. I am 175lbs.

View attachment 18153

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lf3RDxGcBiI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yd2hmPfoOB0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOfj5196CRo

I kinda miss these updates about the turbo and how everything is working. As I'm starting the 2nd part of my tuning with E40 to be able to add some good timing to my turbo.

 

[misdeismo]

Hey guys, I own sneakypete's FiST now. Picked it up from a Ford dealership about 3 months ago literally a day or two after he traded it in. Had a GT 350 before that but traded it in on the FiST because I was putting serious mileage on it as it was a DD.

Anyway, he did a masterful job modding the car and I am very happy with it at the moment. I have some lofty plans for the car which I already have set in motion but I am in the research phase right now. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get his AP with the car purchase so I haven't been logging performance but I will get one soon once I get my first major mod completed which will require a retune.

I'm taking things slown overall because the car runs really well and I don't want to make significant changes without having all the pieces in place.

Stay tuned!!!

 

[CSM]

Hey guys, I own sneakypete's FiST now. Picked it up from a Ford dealership about 3 months ago literally a day or two after he traded it in. Had a GT 350 before that but traded it in on the FiST because I was putting serious mileage on it as it was a DD.

Anyway, he did a masterful job modding the car and I am very happy with it at the moment. I have some lofty plans for the car which I already have set in motion but I am in the research phase right now. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get his AP with the car purchase so I haven't been logging performance but I will get one soon once I get my first major mod completed which will require a retune.

I'm taking things slown overall because the car runs really well and I don't want to make significant changes without having all the pieces in place.

Stay tuned!!!

Awesome! meetings from Atlanta!

make sureyou join the ATL rs/st page on FB

 

[Se7eN]

So at the local dyno, my car ran a 265whp and 270wtq, on "93oct" basically was running into a fueling issue. Once it was fixed I never really went back with a little added boost, maybe would've been around 270-275?, anyways went back to the dyno a week ago with a E40 Mix fuel more boost and a heck of alot more timing in the car.

Final numbers where 306whp and 307wtq, 85* ambient temp and nearly 27psi boost at peak, but actually runs down to about 25psi at high rpms. I didn't want to push the car past 6,500RPM so most of the runs where done up to 6,400rpm. Also I'm pretty sure if I would've gone to 7,000 it would've kept making power because it was not dropping at all.

Very happy with it, did what I wanted it to do. Tq does come in kinda late, but if you're roll racing or running a highway pull from 2nd it doesn't really matter at all. Plus it's already pulling upwards of 250wtq at around 3,500rpm. Probably gonna go to the track in January when it opens up again and see what it can do. Really feels great

 

[KnockOff]

So at the local dyno, my car ran a 265whp and 270wtq, on "93oct" basically was running into a fueling issue. Once it was fixed I never really went back with a little added boost, maybe would've been around 270-275?, anyways went back to the dyno a week ago with a E40 Mix fuel more boost and a heck of alot more timing in the car.

Final numbers where 306whp and 307wtq, 85* ambient temp and nearly 27psi boost at peak, but actually runs down to about 25psi at high rpms. I didn't want to push the car past 6,500RPM so most of the runs where done up to 6,400rpm. Also I'm pretty sure if I would've gone to 7,000 it would've kept making power because it was not dropping at all.

Very happy with it, did what I wanted it to do. Tq does come in kinda late, but if you're roll racing or running a highway pull from 2nd it doesn't really matter at all. Plus it's already pulling upwards of 250wtq at around 3,500rpm. Probably gonna go to the track in January when it opens up again and see what it can do. Really feels great

Good to hear you like it. Some have said it drives completely different with that turbo but not necessarily in a bad way. Just have to get used to it.

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[Se7eN]

yes, drivability changes a bit. Basically instead of driving around in low revs like in stock turbo, you need to hang in the 3,000rpms range but fuel efficiency is about the same and the feel is about the same. I do actually like it better. It's more progressive and not just a massive surge of torque and wheel spin and then little power up top. The thing just keeps pulling and pulling.

I currently have stock manifold and 2.5 exhaust, I'm sure spool would improve with a ported or tubular manifold.

 

[KnockOff]

Yea that way you get going where it's harder to spin and actually take off. I bet it feels like it grips better because of that lack of dokey kick of torque that breaks the tires loose.

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[Se7eN]

Yea it grips a bit better in the "93oct" tune, but the E40 tune is something else. Even using boost by gear and all that 2nd gear the tires want to break loose.

 

[denveryettie]

Yea it grips a bit better in the "93oct" tune, but the E40 tune is something else. Even using boost by gear and all that 2nd gear the tires want to break loose.

I am planning on moving to E30 this spring since I dont need aux for it. But my dyno time showed my WTQ was only like 225 with 265 WHP. This is on 91 octane. The AP says its closer to 260-270tq. I think I will hit another dyno, but I am curious, are you being tuned by Randy or another party?