Mountune Fiesta MRX Turbo

[SneakyPete]

Data for the 21.5psi run

 

[jeff]

Hey folks. Car is indeed 2580lbs, you read it right. Trunk materials and back seat removed (115lbs less), removed washer fluid reservoir (5lbs), OZ Ultraleggera 17x7's w/Eagle F1 Tires (36lbs less total), Tarox 6pot 300mm Two Piece BBK (10lbs less), Braille Lightweight Battery (15lbs less). Puts me at 2539 down from 2720 factory, now add back in 20 lbs for the heavier CPE intercooler and the braces on the car are another 15-20lbs total, so right around 2580. Add the 175lbs for me to the car as done in VDyno and there you go. If I raised the weight it would actually bloat the dyno results higher since I'd be going the same speed with more weight...

Updates on VDynos and logs below. Shooting for 290-295 end point right now at 27psi, right where I was looking to be. I went back and made sure the baro pressure was as close as possible (sea level baro for my area then adjusted for elevation at 940 feet above, using Weather Underground historical data), forgot to do that last time I posted them all (altitude correction). Weather is much colder today so that's helping a bit on the latest run.

- Red line is 11.5psi, wastegate pressure only, 0% WGDC (non-billet WGA)
- Blue line is 15.5psi
- Green line is 21.5psi

View attachment 17315

Good stuff Pete. Put your smoothing at 3, you'll have more accurate estimates. I think the MRX is advertised as around 275 on pump gas so anything past that would be beyond fantastic. Good luck and thanks for posting.

BTW are you getting a real dyno test done when it's all over?

 

[denveryettie]

Hey folks. Car is indeed 2580lbs, you read it right. Trunk materials and back seat removed (115lbs less), removed washer fluid reservoir (5lbs), OZ Ultraleggera 17x7's w/Eagle F1 Tires (36lbs less total), Tarox 6pot 300mm Two Piece BBK (10lbs less), Braille Lightweight Battery (15lbs less). Puts me at 2539 down from 2720 factory, now add back in 20 lbs for the heavier CPE intercooler and the braces on the car are another 15-20lbs total, so right around 2580. Add the 175lbs for me to the car as done in VDyno and there you go. If I raised the weight it would actually bloat the dyno results higher since I'd be going the same speed with more weight...

Updates on VDynos and logs below. Shooting for 290-295 end point right now at 27psi, right where I was looking to be. I went back and made sure the baro pressure was as close as possible (sea level baro for my area then adjusted for elevation at 940 feet above, using Weather Underground historical data), forgot to do that last time I posted them all (altitude correction). Weather is much colder today so that's helping a bit on the latest run.

- Red line is 11.5psi, wastegate pressure only, 0% WGDC (non-billet WGA)
- Blue line is 15.5psi
- Green line is 21.5psi

View attachment 17315

Very cool. So how is the spool with this new thing. I have heard its later, which sounds good I am hoping for just a bit, as stock is so fast that with a tune its spinning on third gear pulls on the dyno. If its at 3500 or so I am game. Really curious on the details of how it drives. Tho I should ask once its all done haha. How was the install???

 

[SneakyPete]

Good stuff Pete. Put your smoothing at 3, you'll have more accurate estimates. I think the MRX is advertised as around 275 on pump gas so anything past that would be beyond fantastic. Good luck and thanks for posting.

BTW are you getting a real dyno test done when it's all over?

Thanks! Honestly I dont worry too much what the actual dyno numbers are as long as they are in the right range for the kit. I dont want to stress out the axles and such nor do I want to do 110+ on a dyno in 4th. VDyno is usually close within 4% so if I'm getting 280-290 on there, I'm a happy camper. I did switch the smoothing and looks pretty similar, just a few hp less per run. Thx for the tip.

 

[TDavis]

Thanks! Honestly I dont worry too much what the actual dyno numbers are as long as they are in the right range for the kit. I dont want to stress out the axles and such nor do I want to do 110+ on a dyno in 4th. VDyno is usually close within 4% so if I'm getting 280-290 on there, I'm a happy camper. I did switch the smoothing and looks pretty similar, just a few hp less per run. Thx for the tip.

View attachment 17321

Only 269 ft lbs? Why does that seem low for an upgraded turbo.

 

[SneakyPete]

Very cool. So how is the spool with this new thing. I have heard its later, which sounds good I am hoping for just a bit, as stock is so fast that with a tune its spinning on third gear pulls on the dyno. If its at 3500 or so I am game. Really curious on the details of how it drives. Tho I should ask once its all done haha. How was the install???

The turbo is honestly the biggest I would ever consider for the car. Spool is just where I would want it, around 3500-4000 which is much easier on the rods and allows you to get moving and try to put the tires down. It spools quite fast too despite being higher in the RPMs, wouldnt want it lower frankly or too much higher. Feels like you have a BMW 4 Liter V8 in the car, nice midrange punch but really opens up 4k+ and just keeps going and going and going. Install took about 8.5hrs to be honest with a lift. Some snafus we ran into below that I sent to Mountune, nothing we couldnt fix but a few

1. The wastegate actuator bracket was touching the back of the engine which made lining up the turbo on the vband essentially impossible. We had to cut the wastegate actuator bracket back a bit for it to fit properly. My friend who installed an ATP GT2554R had the exact same issue. Bracket is now still supported on both sides, just was trimmed a bit.

2. The stock oil drain line was too long to re-use since the vband adapter effectively lowered the turbo a little ways. We ended up cutting the drain and putting in an oil-safe rubber hose there and clamping it up (1/2" diameter opening hose needed). This is a low pressure drain so PVC hose works fine.

3. The fitment of the OEM turbo inlet pipe on the reducer in the silicone elbow is so tight it was extremely difficult to get it on, even with a bit of lube on the elbow side. Not sure if it is a hair too big but we got it on after about 30 min of working it. It didnt work to install it beforehand as the angle of the pipe wasnt right without fitting the turbo inlet pipe after the elbow was on the cold side inlet.

4. We were short the two bolts and two nuts needed for the downpipe to catback flange. I went through everything carefully and they are listed on the instructions but were not in the package fyi. We used some others we had at the shop though.

5. Install would likely be a lot easier with the passenger side axle removed but it was not 100% necessary, if worth noting in the instructions.

6. Be sure to install the inside water line (block side) on the turbo and also attach the wastegate actuator vacuum line BEFORE mounting the turbo or you will change your religion doing it on the backend as someone told me rightly so.

7. Manifold did NOT have to come off, we didnt want to start breaking studs. I would advise you not touch it. The manifold heat shield went back on with some trimming but I just used DEI Titanium Heat Wrap on the downpipe, works great (smokes for a sec then hardens) vs messing with that heat shield.

 

[SneakyPete]

Only 269 ft lbs? Why does that seem low for an upgraded turbo.

Only 21.5 psi at the moment, 5.5-6 more to go. Should be a nice 290-295whp and similar torque. Frankly, it has enough as is at 21.5, any more down low and you're not going anywhere really lol

 

[denveryettie]

The turbo is honestly the biggest I would ever consider for the car. Spool is just where I would want it, around 3500-4000 which is much easier on the rods and allows you to get moving and try to put the tires down. It spools quite fast too despite being higher in the RPMs, wouldnt want it lower frankly or too much higher. Feels like you have a BMW 4 Liter V8 in the car, nice midrange punch but really opens up 4k+ and just keeps going and going and going. Install took about 8.5hrs to be honest with a lift. Some snafus we ran into below that I sent to Mountune, nothing we couldnt fix but a few

1. The wastegate actuator bracket was touching the back of the engine which made lining up the turbo on the vband essentially impossible. We had to cut the wastegate actuator bracket back a bit for it to fit properly. My friend who installed an ATP GT2554R had the exact same issue. Bracket is now still supported on both sides, just was trimmed a bit.

2. The stock oil drain line was too long to re-use since the vband adapter effectively lowered the turbo a little ways. We ended up cutting the drain and putting in an oil-safe rubber hose there and clamping it up (1/2" diameter opening hose needed). This is a low pressure drain so PVC hose works fine.

3. The fitment of the OEM turbo inlet pipe on the reducer in the silicone elbow is so tight it was extremely difficult to get it on, even with a bit of lube on the elbow side. Not sure if it is a hair too big but we got it on after about 30 min of working it. It didnt work to install it beforehand as the angle of the pipe wasnt right without fitting the turbo inlet pipe after the elbow was on the cold side inlet.

4. We were short the two bolts and two nuts needed for the downpipe to catback flange. I went through everything carefully and they are listed on the instructions but were not in the package fyi. We used some others we had at the shop though.

5. Install would likely be a lot easier with the passenger side axle removed but it was not 100% necessary, if worth noting in the instructions.

6. Be sure to install the inside water line (block side) on the turbo and also attach the wastegate actuator vacuum line BEFORE mounting the turbo or you will change your religion doing it on the backend as someone told me rightly so.

7. Manifold did NOT have to come off, we didnt want to start breaking studs. I would advise you not touch it. The manifold heat shield went back on with some trimming but I just used DEI Titanium Heat Wrap on the downpipe, works great (smokes for a sec then hardens) vs messing with that heat shield.

Great info. Thanks for the tips. This will surely come in handy when it comes time to do the job, whether it be this turbo or not. I want as close to 300whp as I can but on something reliable and not 5k bucks. This is right in the wheel house, and Mountune makes good parts. Plus I have already tuned with Randy on the stocker. Just kind of makes sense. The real issue is our 91 fuel is the best we can get and its absolute trash. Might as well be 89. That and elevation. Im at 2800 ft. Nothing terrible but not doing me favors either haha. Since all of this matters its leaving me trying to figure out exactly what I want to do.

 

[SneakyPete]

Great info. Thanks for the tips. This will surely come in handy when it comes time to do the job, whether it be this turbo or not. I want as close to 300whp as I can but on something reliable and not 5k bucks. This is right in the wheel house, and Mountune makes good parts. Plus I have already tuned with Randy on the stocker. Just kind of makes sense. The real issue is our 91 fuel is the best we can get and its absolute trash. Might as well be 89. That and elevation. Im at 2800 ft. Nothing terrible but not doing me favors either haha. Since all of this matters its leaving me trying to figure out exactly what I want to do.

Find a station with some E85 and use a ethanol content calculator to blend to E15-E16. It will get you a bit more octane. 0.75 gallons of 104 octane E85 and 7.5 gallons of 91 octane should come to around 92.2, about E17 in content. Randy can tune for it, or hell just blend to E30 and tune for it.

http://www.georgebelton.com/E85Calculator.php

 

[denveryettie]

Find a station with some E85 and use a ethanol content calculator to blend to E15-E16. It will get you a bit more octane. 0.75 gallons of 104 octane E85 and 7.5 gallons of 91 octane should come to around 92.2, about E17 in content. Randy can tune for it, or hell just blend to E30 and tune for it.

http://www.georgebelton.com/E85Calculator.php

Its funny that you say that because I am actually about to start E30 because I want more juice before I make the move to big turbo. Due to time needed to save, I need something to tie me over. And lucky me we have a lone E85 pump here in Boise.

 

[blurred]

Only 21.5 psi at the moment, 5.5-6 more to go. Should be a nice 290-295whp and similar torque. Frankly, it has enough as is at 21.5, any more down low and you're not going anywhere really lol

Leave it at 21psi down low and ramp it up to 27 which will keep your torque flatter and aid acceleration, traction, and wot cornering

 

[Xaendeau]

Spool really kicks in at 3.2k, so everything before that is fuel economy. Max torque at 3.6k (~295-300 torque). Peak boost is ~24.5-25 psi around 4.4k-6.6k. Max hp is usually at 6.8k-6.9k (~280-285 wheels).
We are keeping the boost limited to no more than 25 psi, so the boost curve is nice and flat from 4k to 7k, with a little bit of taper at the end (~24-ish psi).

Had a full-sized hydraulic jack, car parts, and all my tools in the car...so take the tq/hp numbers with a grain of salt. Cobb's numbers were shown to be a few percent lower than most people's VDYNO. Stock intake, Mountune Cat'd Downpipe, FSWERKS 2.5" exhaust, upgraded wastegate, all on 93 octane. Mishimoto J-Line FMIC and their radiator for cooling purposes.

Fuel actually economy went up about than 10% on the highway (30 mpg to 33 mpg), since I am around 70-80 mph on the interstate. I get better fuel efficiency in the city too, but that is hard to measure. When doing economy driving, I shift at 2.5k-3.0k in first and 2.0k-2.5k in every other gear. Great for daily commutes, but oh boy does the fuel economy drop when you step on it and let it rev out. It is hard to resist.

Also, I don't spool up to 3-5 psi going up a slight incline with cruse control on. I would imagine that is where some of the fuel economy gains are coming from...still stays at a small vacuum at engine load. I see lots of timing being added under load without boost below 3k (4+ deg sometimes), but without the boost. I think that is pretty nifty, no knock either. I imagine some of the economy gain are attributed to that as well.

Honestly, I've data logged autocrosses on the stock turbo. I rarely dropped below 4k, and never drop below 3.4k. You just do the whole course in 2nd gear...might have to shift into 3rd on those airport runway courses with this new turbo. Turbo spools up perfectly fine for my needs.

 

[Vanilla2]

Reading the past few pages really get me excited about getting mine installed...

I had been wavering on the worth of this mod as I been looking at S3’s for the little lady.

Congrats on the nice looking #’s

 

[SneakyPete]

Updated MRX Vdyno, smoothing 3, corrected for actual barometric pressure. 22.2psi vs 23.96psi peak in the charts. Only 57% Wastegate Duty Cycle on the non-billet WGA currently.

DataZap Log

 

[JimRN]

After a lot of assessment of different turbo kits and comparison to the hybrid kits, how is the MRX / Garrett on the bottom end? The info says that it's present through the entire RPM band.

 

[felopr]

Updated MRX Vdyno, smoothing 3, corrected for actual barometric pressure. 22.2psi vs 23.96psi peak in the charts. Only 57% Wastegate Duty Cycle on the non-billet WGA currently.

DataZap Log

View attachment 17330

need to configure that vdyno so it shows boost and afr at the bottom also

 

[drcoopster]

After a lot of assessment of different turbo kits and comparison to the hybrid kits, how is the MRX / Garrett on the bottom end? The info says that it's present through the entire RPM band.

You lose some grunt below 3000 RPM compared to the stock turbo.

 

[SneakyPete]

Mountune MRX Turbo, 3rd gear pull, ATP 3" Downpipe, Mountune Catback and Intake, CP-e Intercooler, Turbosmart BOV. Vdyno posted here too from same day, same gear. Testing in Mexico.

Vid: https://youtu.be/lf3RDxGcBiI

 

[denveryettie]

Mountune MRX Turbo, 3rd gear pull, ATP 3" Downpipe, Mountune Catback and Intake, CP-e Intercooler, Turbosmart BOV. Vdyno posted here too from same day, same gear. Testing in Mexico.

Vid: https://youtu.be/lf3RDxGcBiI

View attachment 17360

Glad to finally see a video of an MRX on youtube!! So looking at the vdyno, it looks like its definitely got a later spool. In your video when did you actually go WOT? I like the look of this for fuel mileage in the around town driviing, and I feel like 4th gear pulls will get let this snail shine. I make the most power on dyno here in Boise in 4th gear. Id be curious to see a 4th gear pull just because haha. If you can and want to that is

 

[SneakyPete]

The log I took for the VDyno in 3rd was a pull from 2500 for tuning purposes which bogs it a bit. If you make a pull from 3000rpms or so, it tends to spool around 4k, which is great for traction. In the video though I hit it at like 3800 or more so that was just for sound and needle sweep capture Fuel mileage is better than stock, averaging 35mpg if I keep my foot out of it. Here is the brief 4th gear pull I did on a Mexican hwy, for comparison. Definitely makes more in 4th. Not to redline due to not wanting to enter orbit.