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Running open downpipe sucks

Based

Senior Member
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Nope
#1
Ok so I was installing my Borla catback yesterday and I cut the stock exhaust in half, dropped the muffler side of it, and I was loosening the two nuts that hold it to the downpipe. They were ON THERE boy. One came undone, but one was so tight, the stud actually broke in half as I was trying to loosen the nut. So one half the stud is stuck in the downpipe and one half is stuck in the nut lol. So until next Saturday I gotta run open downpipe.

It fucking sucks. Drone is unbearable and the car is actually slower. Like stupid slow.

The crackles from my crackle tune feel like hammers to my skull.

So I'm just saying don't ever run open DP it sucks.
 


OP
B

Based

Senior Member
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Thread Starter #3
Why waiting a whole week? Just smash the stud out with a hammer and put a bolt in its place.
Oh you can do that? I never really thought about it I just thought it was some shop sorcery.

I'm just going to wait for next Saturday though. I'm gonna bring my car and my exhaust and intercooler and pay the guy to put those things on and maybe change my oil.
 


grnmachine02

Active member
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#4
Yeah my downpipe to catback bolts were mangled and cross threaded from the factory. I had to get medieval on those studs.
 


OP
B

Based

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Thread Starter #5
Yeah my downpipe to catback bolts were mangled and cross threaded from the factory. I had to get medieval on those studs.
Damn maybe that's why mine were so tight! Like dude no shit I've never had to pull so hard on a wrench before in my life and I've pulled an engine and transmission before and have been working on cars for like 5 years now.

https://youtu.be/8Osiw9KAc0A


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OP
B

Based

Senior Member
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Thread Starter #7
I think it was my drivers side stud? It was bad. The passenger side came off no problem.

Open downpipe because race car
Yeah mine was drivers side too!


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OP
B

Based

Senior Member
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Thread Starter #9
Same here. I tried to beat it out and it wouldn't come. Had shop get it out.
Damn I'm glad I'm not the only one!


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Messages
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Location
Charles Town
#11
If you do a lot of DIY stuff on your car you should consider investing in a torch. I can't even tell you the countless times mine has saved a bad situation from turning into a complete headache!
 


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Weymouth
#12
I've done trannies on vehicles with less then 10K and exhaust studs are already frozen. Sometimes you luck out and most times you don't especially if the vehicle has seen even 1 winter.

Anytime I do exhaust work I like to soak the hell out of things the night before a few times with PB blaster. If they don't break free then grab the heat and get them cherry and try again. An impact gun also helps to break things loose opposed to a ratchet or wrench. If you don't use heat on exhaust studs, the chances of studs breaking go up dramatically.

Same principle goes for removing studs as well, like stated before an air hammer usually pops them out easily. A hammer sometimes doesn't give it the shock needed to break free. Working on smaller stuff you may be able to get by but for an air hammer to be effective you usually need a good one like a Snap-on PH3050. Otherwise they can just deform metal but studs are pretty safe, they just won't come out.
 


OP
B

Based

Senior Member
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Thread Starter #14
slower... i doubt this
Lol bro you don't have to doubt I'm telling you it is. It is absolutely slower and I get worse mpg


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grnmachine02

Active member
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Fredericksburg
#16
i though on turbo cars zero restriction was the best
Yes, the best exhaust for a turbo is no exhaust. However, you may shift the power band around. I would assume what he is feeling is that some of the low end grunt has been moved to the mid range.
 


OP
B

Based

Senior Member
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Thread Starter #17
Yes, the best exhaust for a turbo is no exhaust. However, you may shift the power band around. I would assume what he is feeling is that some of the low end grunt has been moved to the mid range.
Yeah maybe so


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