Factory brake pad and rotor lifespan

[ActiveArchST]

At 20k, took my car into the dealer and was told both front and rear pads are gone at less than 3mm and front rotors need replacing, I do see the bump on the outer edge. Never tracked the car but do drive pretty aggressive and have taken it up and down a long canyon road more than a few times.

Initially thought I would just need some new pads from the dealer and was expecting to pay a couple hundred knowing they're performance pads but dealer quoted me $780 for the two front rotors and pads for front and rear. Am I crazy or does that sound like way too much? Can't really afford that at the moment so am trying to find some alternative options. Not sure if resurfacing the rotors is an option and assume dealer wouldn't do it anyways? $780 for factory pads and front rotors from dealer at only 20k just doesn't sound right to me.


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[Zormecteon]

I'm thinking $179 per axle is the regular price at the dealer. that makes it ~ $720 for all four in Portland Oregon.

 

[eleven]

At 20k, took my car into the dealer and was told...

...doesn't sound right to me.

Have tools and time? Buy this -> https://www.mountuneusa.com/mountune-RS-R-Brake-Pad-Rotor-Package-Fiesta-ST-p/2364-bp1-aa.htm

Don't have tools? Buy what you need, still cheaper than the difference.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I forget who/where it was posted, but some on here have found the Motorcraft factory rotors, and pads, for some VERY low prices.

Even if you cannot do it yourself, you could buy these, and take them to a reputable shop for installation, albeit without whatever (short) warranty the dealer would have given you on their work.

 

[ActiveArchST]

Have tools and time? Buy this -> https://www.mountuneusa.com/mountune-RS-R-Brake-Pad-Rotor-Package-Fiesta-ST-p/2364-bp1-aa.htm

Don't have tools? Buy what you need, still cheaper than the difference.

Thanks guys, ended up buying this just now -> https://www.mountuneusa.com/mountune-RS-R-Complete-Upgrade-Package-Fiesta-ST-p/2364-bp3-aa.html

Payed just a little more than the dealers quote for only front rotors and oem front and rear pads. Now I'll feel confident tracking the car for the first time, hopefully that'll be pretty soon.

Are you guys aware of how easy or difficult it will be to bleed the brakes and install the new hoses? I've never done brakes before but recently went through the full boomba shifter kit install so I've broken in my ability to work on the car, I'm just not sure if it might be smart to get these installed somewhere else if I've never done an install like it before. It'd be nice to do it all myself to learn the process and save the $$$. Appreciate the help..


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[Quisp]

Clean the caliper pistons before pushing them into the calipers. Dawn and toothbrush . You will need tool to retract rear calipers.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I wonder just where in the Hawk lineup these Mountune pads, BOTH the RS-Rs and RS-Ts fall (as far as friction mu, heat needed to work, initial 'bite', and ultimate heat they can handle without fade on their part).

 

[TyphoonFiST]

At 20k, took my car into the dealer and was told both front and rear pads are gone at less than 3mm and front rotors need replacing, I do see the bump on the outer edge. Never tracked the car but do drive pretty aggressive and have taken it up and down a long canyon road more than a few times.

Initially thought I would just need some new pads from the dealer and was expecting to pay a couple hundred knowing they're performance pads but dealer quoted me $780 for the two front rotors and pads for front and rear. Am I crazy or does that sound like way too much? Can't really afford that at the moment so am trying to find some alternative options. Not sure if resurfacing the rotors is an option and assume dealer wouldn't do it anyways? $780 for factory pads and front rotors from dealer at only 20k just doesn't sound right to me.


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Uh....Dont buy or do anything from them.....go buy new rotors of your choice via RockAuto....factory or upgrade the rotors as I did to slotted....or non slotted cryoed rotors in the front....get normal slotted or non slotted in the rear. Get brake pads from carbotech.....mountune or hawk. Call and talk to a rep and tell them what you want ....they will guide you in the right direction. It will save you alot and you'll get quality or factory stuff for cheaper. I think I updated everything in a thread a while back. Check it out.....itll give you some ideas.....good luck and DON'T BE CHEAP and forget to grease the slide pins either....use silaramic grease by CRC....or something that melts off at a high temp.

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[ActiveArchST]

Uh....Dont buy or do anything from them.....go buy new rotors of your choice via RockAuto....factory or upgrade the rotors as I did to slotted....or non slotted cryoed rotors in the front....get normal slotted or non slotted in the rear. Get brake pads from carbotech.....mountune or hawk. Call and talk to a rep and tell them what you want ....they will guide you in the right direction. It will save you alot and you'll get quality or factory stuff for cheaper. I think I updated everything in a thread a while back. Check it out.....itll give you some ideas.....good luck and DON'T BE CHEAP and forget to grease the slide pins either....use silaramic grease by CRC....or something that melts off at a high temp.

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Thanks [MENTION=3563]TyphoonFiST[/MENTION], I ended up buying the mountune rs-r upgrade package (link in post #45 above) with the stainless lining and full new rotors and pads. They'll be getting installed on Friday and I'm wondering if you guys can tell me if it's necessary to break these in?

Anyone who might be aware or have experience with the mountune brake packages, do I need to do any 45-15 stops or anything like that? Thanks..


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[BRGT350]

just about every pad needs a bedding process. This is what transfer pad material to the rotor face and the heating helps with the binding of the pad material. Some pads are scorched to take care of the binders in the pad, but still need some bedding to transfer material. I bed every pad I have ever installed and the process is similar. The Hawk pads have their own procedure, and I would think the Mountune pads by Hawk are the same. You want to bring them up to temp and then do a few 60-0 panic stops to really get them hot. Allow for cooling and then you are ok. So, a slow gradual rise in temp followed by induction of a great deal of heat and then a gentle cooling. Bedding pads is actually kind of fun, but seems to piss off everyone around you. No matter how empty a road is, there is always somebody who seems to find me when I am bedding pads.

 

[M-Sport fan]

No matter how empty a road is, there is always somebody who seems to find me when I am bedding pads.

Ain't it the truth!

(...or a LEO sitting out in the middle of NOWHERE. )

 

[TyphoonFiST]

It's what I encountered also...did mine at abp it 25k....a little less 30% upfront and I'd say 50% + in the back...but I did them all anyways. Got centric Cryoed front and normal backs but both are slotted with a set of carbotech 1521/bobcat pads. Talk about dust cut back and nice smooth braking...I'm now just cleaning my wheels @33k...pretty good compared to stock pads dusting and cleaning them weekly.

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[DaveG99]

Im at 24k and the pads still have plenty of life left. Id say maybe 50%. I drive mostly highway miles though so the brakes dont get much work. I do go into the mountains twice a year on the north texas ST cruise and that is where i work the car pretty hard. But its only twice a year.

How much did that set up cost [MENTION=3563]TyphoonFiST[/MENTION] ?

 

[TyphoonFiST]

I think it was around $450 for front and rear Carbotech 1521/bobcat pads....front rotors are centric Cryo frozen slotted rotors and rears were normal slotted centric rotors from Rockauto....they were the cheapest with shipping for the rotors ANYWHERE. Virtually NO DUST....equivalent or better stopping power also.

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[DaveG99]

39k miles and I ordered new pads today. Not sure if I need rotors though. Are you guys replacing rotors with pads at the first brake service? Maybe cutting them will be enough. Would save me about $180 if I didnt get rotors but I dont want to not do them then need them in 10k miles.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

39k miles and I ordered new pads today. Not sure if I need rotors though. Are you guys replacing rotors with pads at the first brake service? Maybe cutting them will be enough. Would save me about $180 if I didnt get rotors but I dont want to not do them then need them in 10k miles.

You will have to find what the discard thickness ....most rotors these days are a one time use and cant be machined due to being to thin. Remember when you machine a rotor ....you are taking away material that dissipates the heat from the pads contacting them. If they are to thin...they become out of round when overheated or fracture apart...which rarely happens...but I have seen it and it's not pretty when it all let's go. So I always buy rotors and pads to avoid any of this ....Dont Skimp on pads and rotors either.... get good quality stuff NOT parts store $15-25 pads and $25-40 rotors. Brakes and Tires are some of the most important parts of safety in a vehicle. So dont get cheap or wanna be frugal in the this Dept.

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[DaveG99]

You will have to find what the discard thickness ....most rotors these days are a one time use and cant be machined due to being to thin. Remember when you machine a rotor ....you are taking away material that dissipates the heat from the pads contacting them. If they are to thin...they become out of round when overheated or fracture apart...which rarely happens...but I have seen it and it's not pretty when it all let's go. So I always buy rotors and pads to avoid any of this ....Dont Skimp on pads and rotors either.... get good quality stuff NOT parts store $15-25 pads and $25-40 rotors. Brakes and Tires are some of the most important parts of safety in a vehicle. So dont get cheap or wanna be frugal in the this Dept.

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I ordered motorcraft OEM parts. I like the stock brakes and they work plenty well enough for me.

 

[Zombie]

30k for me.

I replaced pads and rotors all around with OEM.

 

[Quisp]

35 k my rotors we're done. You don't want to put new rotors on pads you bedded in on old rotors.

 

[alexrex20]

I feel like deja vu. Anyway, I replaced my front rotors with the front pads at 25k. The rotors were in good shape and above minimum thickness, but if they wore at the same rate they would be well under minimum thickness by the time the new pads wore again. OEM rotors are only $50/ea so it only makes sense to replace them.

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