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NEW Bilstein B8 Performance Plus Dampers w/Mountune Sport Springs

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Peoria
I'm still waiting for someone - ANYONE - to review the B6's vs. OEMs on stock springs...
 


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183
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San Francisco Bay Area
So has anyone actually installed Swift springs on either of these struts? I understand Swift spring rates are designed to match the stock dampening so would the B6 be a better choice since it is closer to stock?
 


OffTheWall503

1000 Post Club
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So has anyone actually installed Swift springs on either of these struts? I understand Swift spring rates are designed to match the stock dampening so would the B6 be a better choice since it is closer to stock?
I'll be using the Swift springs with the B8's. I'll post impressions in a few weeks.
 


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San Francisco Bay Area
I reached out to Swift to get their opinion on B6 v B8 for their lowering springs and they recommend B6's.


Info <info@swiftsprings.com>

Hi Kyle,

There are many people that run the B8, but we always recommend the B6?s. Both will work, but we like the fact that the shocks uses the oem dimensions on the B6?s.

I hope that helps.

Thank you!

Best Regards,

The Swift Team
Tel: (909)393-8623
Fax: (909)393-3710

Swift Springs
15330 Fairfield Ranch Rd.
Unit I
Chino Hills, CA 91709
www.SwiftSprings.com
 


OP
Khill007
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Location
Dallas
Thread Starter #168
I'll be using the Swift springs with the B8's. I'll post impressions in a few weeks.
I look forward to your review. I am the OP of this thread and used Mountunes. I love the way it turned out but I just have a funny feeling the linear Swift spring may perform even better.
 


neeqness

1000 Post Club
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LA
I look forward to your review. I am the OP of this thread and used Mountunes. I love the way it turned out but I just have a funny feeling the linear Swift spring may perform even better.
Me too.

Since I have Eibachs on-hand (which are probably the closest to the Mountunes), I'll likely try them out with those first but if I decide to keep it lowered, the Swifts are top on my list for replacing it.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
 


neeqness

1000 Post Club
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Doesn't sound right to me either?!?

[dunno]
I've actually had both the base Fiesta hatch as well as the ST and can vouch for the fact that the ST is slightly lower.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
 


OP
Khill007
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Dallas
Thread Starter #172
This thread has gone dead?!? Did any of you try the B8's with Swift springs????
 


KKaWing

Active member
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Somewhere
So just a heads up, I measured the stock dampers now that they are swapped out with my B6's. The fronts are essentially the same (B6 vs stock). The rears... are a bit less straight forward. The shaft is the same length, but when fully compressed (gently), the stocks have about an inch extra travel vs the B6's. Either way, the bump stops should stop them both well before bottoming out but if you plan on lowering the car via springs I would definitely consider the B8's instead.

Note: measurements are with a tape measure so take this more of an estimate than exact science.
 


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Location
San Diego
Just did B8s and mountune springs today. Car is all kinds of messed up. I'm getting major clunking going on in the front end but can find anything loose and nor could a shop. The guy tried to tell me it's because the bilsteins are low pressure and the stocks are high. I also have a squeak from hell in the rear. Couldn't figure it out but my rear springs look like this which I thought weird considering I have maybe 50 lbs of stuff in the car tops.



 


KKaWing

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Squeak can be kinda cured by silicone lube on the top nut (they're bigger than stock) for the rear until you can center it properly. They're held in by 2 10mm bolts so they could shift. I have the same squeak for my rear right corner but the silicone lube made it quite enough that only when the radio is off do I hear a small peep. Good enough until I can get it back up on a lift. Clunks from the front can be many things... could be improperly fastened nuts or sway bar endlink would be my first guesses.

The B6 on OE springs is amazing. You still feel the road but everything is rounded off and smoothed over. No longer do my man boobs jiggle over seemingly smooth but slightly wavy tarmac.
 


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Location
San Diego
Squeak can be kinda cured by silicone lube on the top nut (they're bigger than stock) for the rear until you can center it properly. They're held in by 2 10mm bolts so they could shift. I have the same squeak for my rear right corner but the silicone lube made it quite enough that only when the radio is off do I hear a small peep. Good enough until I can get it back up on a lift. Clunks from the front can be many things... could be improperly fastened nuts or sway bar endlink would be my first guess.



Going to put it back up in the air tomorrow and I'll put some silicone grease on it but man the squeaking is LOUD! Like can't hear the radio loud. I feel like it's a little crazy that the rear springs have 7 coils touching at rest. I thought the front was a sway bar link at first but they are tight. I was also told I'd need cam bolts for the front to do an alignment, can anyone confirm this? Sorry to kind of hi jack.
 


KKaWing

Active member
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Somewhere
Going to put it back up in the air tomorrow and I'll put some silicone grease on it but man the squeaking is LOUD! Like can't hear the radio loud. I feel like it's a little crazy that the rear springs have 7 coils touching at rest. I thought the front was a sway bar link at first but they are tight. I was also told I'd need cam bolts for the front to do an alignment, can anyone confirm this? Sorry to kind of hi jack.
Ahhh... the squeak comes from the larger nut rubbing against the really small "shock tower" hole. You won't be able to reach it from the bottom. Peel back the rear liner to get to that spot.

The coils touching is fine, they're there so when the suspension comes to full droop the springs won't fall out.

The FiST has 2 adjustments for alignment that can actually be adjusted... they are the front left and right toe lol. The rest you'll need to work with whatever manufacturing tolerances there is. Camber bolts in the front will give you camber adjustment and there's also Powerflex's front lower control arm rear bushing for caster (don't need that usually). The rears are a lost cause unless you're Raamaudio and reweld the rear hubs :p So... yeah camber bolts are a good idea.
 


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