Group Buy: cp-e intake Ram Air Box GROUP BUY with custom color options

[kivnul]

Eagerly anticipating your results Ron!

 

[MisSTrouble]

in the name of testing and while my cp-e intake is being custom powder coated I picked up a Mountune induction hose to test the TuxBlack15 and MisSTrouble
fix for myself
see pics
I used a quick connect with vac cap and clamp on the charge pipe
plus a Boomba check valve (3/8") on the evap line
I used clamps at the check valve since it seemed like a loose fit as compared to the T fitting at the evap line and the quick connector at the induction tube

let me know your thoughts

Looks good to me! I almost bought that Boomba check valve. Now we wait and see if you throw a P144C code. Hopefully, like me, you won't.

 

[DangerMouse]

Sorry I'm lagging guys. I'm in, will put deposit down soon - but I want the custom white color! I'll pay more, Ron. Same deposit? Let me know. Need that white on white...

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

I want the piping to be custom color with a black box. I'll most likely get the piping done locally, doesn't cost that much and only a couple extra days wait to install.

 

[2Hemis]

I'm confused - I thought the CPE intake is plug and play for the 16s now. Are we going to have to buy that check valve separately and plumb the system as depicted in those photos to make it work? Thanks!

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

 

[M-Sport fan]

I'm confused - I thought the CPE intake is plug and play for the 16s now. Are we going to have to buy that check valve separately and plumb the system as depicted in those photos to make it work? Thanks!

It IS 'plug and play', but with a surcharge for the extra pieces needed.

Ron was just testing to see if a less costly DIY adapter could be made, without throwing ANY codes, for those who only want to pay the '14-'15 intake price, instead of the higher '16 intake price (due to said needed extra adapter for the '16s from cp-e).

One thing I EVER heard an answer/explanation to was what is the rationale/reason Ford went to the '16 plumbing setup over the '14-'15 ones??
Less emissions? Smoother idle?

 

[ron@whoosh]

It IS 'plug and play', but with a surcharge for the extra pieces needed.

Ron was just testing to see if a less costly DIY adapter could be made, without throwing ANY codes, for those who only want to pay the '14-'15 intake price, instead of the higher '16 intake price (due to said needed extra adapter for the '16s from cp-e).

yes and no
the Boomba check valve alone is like $40 shipped so this route isn't the cheapest really
just hang in there for results everyone

 

[DangerMouse]

Might not be cheaper but it sure looks better.

 

[M-Sport fan]

yes and no
the Boomba check valve alone is like $40 shipped so this route isn't the cheapest really
just hang in there for results everyone

Which check valve is MisSTrouble above using, and how much is that one?

 

[Manta Ray]

yes and no
the Boomba check valve alone is like $40 shipped so this route isn't the cheapest really
just hang in there for results everyone

correct me if i am wrong, this diy can be done without line cut?

if so id spend that 40+ on that over the cut solutions. lol

 

[ron@whoosh]

correct me if i am wrong, this diy can be done without line cut?

if so id spend that 40+ on that over the cut solutions. lol

I don't know about cut line solutions???
all the factory parts were removed and can be reinstalled from what you see with this set up

 

[M-Sport fan]

I don't know about cut line solutions???
all the factory parts were removed and can be reinstalled from what you see with this set up

I believe he was asking if/inferring that the cp-e supplied solution requires cutting into factory lines, and therefore would rather go the DIY route than cutting lines if that were the case.

 

[2Hemis]

Ah, now I see. Thanks guys. Deposit confirmed for my 2016, in custom White Pearl (or whatever the paint code is) tube & box!!

 

[molten16st]

Deposit down on black 2016 with dry filter

 

[MisSTrouble]

Which check valve is MisSTrouble above using, and how much is that one?

Mine is a UPR check valve I bought off of eBay for like $10. I had the MAP adapter when I bought their '16 intake kit (which threw a code, btw) and I didnt like the quality of their check valve (kept sticking closed), so I bought the UPR one.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Mine is a UPR check valve I bought off of eBay for like $10. I had the MAP adapter when I bought their '16 intake kit (which threw a code, btw) and I didnt like the quality of their check valve (kept sticking closed), so I bought the UPR one.

THANKS!

 

[Manta Ray]

I believe he was asking if/inferring that the cp-e supplied solution requires cutting into factory lines, and therefore would rather go the DIY route than cutting lines if that were the case.

that is exactly whAt i mean

 

[ron@whoosh]

I believe he was asking if/inferring that the cp-e supplied solution requires cutting into factory lines, and therefore would rather go the DIY route than cutting lines if that were the case.

that is exactly whAt i mean

my apologies gents
both the DIY (which I will offer in kit form with a check valve like MisSTrouble's) or the cp-e PNP is plug and play
the only step of the process that comes close to cutting anything is removing the plastic line that runs from the "T" fitting of the evap line. From the factory this line is hard plastic that is heated then slid on to the barbed T fitting to seal. You have to heat this plastic line with a heat gun to remove it without cutting no matter what harness you buy. Be it the MAP, cp-e, DIY, etc etc etc.

Even "if" you have to cut a teeny tiny little slit in the plastic to get the hard plastic off the T fitting, there is enough line length that you can cleanly cut off that slit evenly so when reverting back to stock you can use a heat gun to slide the plastic OEM line on the T fitting.
It's not bad at all everyone.
I can make a quick video if need be.

 

[ron@whoosh]

I believe he was asking if/inferring that the cp-e supplied solution requires cutting into factory lines, and therefore would rather go the DIY route than cutting lines if that were the case.

that is exactly whAt i mean

my apologies gents
referring to both the DIY (which I will offer in kit form with a check valve like MisSTrouble's) or the cp-e PNP is plug and play
the only step of the process that comes close to cutting anything is removing the plastic line that runs from the "T" fitting of the evap line. From the factory this line is hard plastic that is heated then slid on to the barbed T fitting to seal. You have to heat this plastic line with a heat gun to remove it without cutting no matter what harness you buy. Be it the MAP, cp-e, DIY, etc etc etc.

Even "if" you have to cut a teeny tiny little slit in the plastic to get the hard plastic off the T fitting, there is enough line length that you can cleanly cut off that slit evenly so when reverting back to stock you can use a heat gun to slide the plastic OEM line on the T fitting.
It's not bad at all everyone.
I can make a quick video if need be.

 

[DangerMouse]

I thought for sure there was cutting involved with the cpe adapter, thanks for the clarification.

I still am curious why Ford changed the design for 2016.

 

[MisSTrouble]

I thought for sure there was cutting involved with the cpe adapter, thanks for the clarification.

I still am curious why Ford changed the design for 2016.

I can't remember where I read it, but I believe Ford changed the design and consolidated the lines simply to save a little money.