Fiesta ST subwoofer wiring project

[MKVIIST]

I love how the bass tubes are so efficient..You don't need much power, maybe 50watts of clean power for the 8" and 75 for the 10" to have good sound, but you can also make them slam with a good amount of power. I had a pair of 8" tubes a few years back, then upgraded to a Collins 12". It was OMG kinda loud.

I appreciate the detail you put into your thread installs.

You're welcome and you're right any bass tube will sound good with some sufficient power, especially on a hatch.

 

[bduane]

Also you generally don't want to run low level audio signals parallel to high voltage power wires.

I followed these directions mostly when installing my subs, and had to tap the remote wire into the fuse box. The yellow/brown wire in the drivers side harness looks to be (from the wiring diagrams) a speaker wire? Otherwise very helpful!

I am preparing for a sub install... but based on this I am now uncertain where to connect the remote wire. I like the idea of simply tapping into the existing wire instead of going back to the fuse box... any idea where this discrepancy comes from? You are both in the US so it shouldn't be an EU/US difference.

 

[lessard.dcj]

I ran all wires up the same side with no issues. Although i did use high end audio cable with shielding from outside sources. But i only used it because it was what i had laying around. I would have used a 10 dollar cable.

 

[bduane]

I used a small drill bit to put a small hole through the rubber grommet. Will be filling that up with a bit of silicone.

I'm a little confused by this, the video you posted shows an automatic Fiesta, and where our clutch assembly would connect on the manual there is a grommet that you can easily use. On the manual ST, this area seems to be replaced by the clutch assembly. Where is the grommet that you drilled through? I am having trouble finding it. I have taken a picture that shows where the grommet would be in the video you posted, but I am having a hard time finding where the wire can come through in our manual ST:

 

[MKVIIST]

I am preparing for a sub install... but based on this I am now uncertain where to connect the remote wire. I like the idea of simply tapping into the existing wire instead of going back to the fuse box... any idea where this discrepancy comes from? You are both in the US so it shouldn't be an EU/US difference.

You can do either, I have a friend who got the wiring schematics from Direct Electronics which notes that you can tap into the blue wire I posted. However you can go back to the fuse box which is right behind the glove box. You just run the wire down the passenger side instead of the driver side.

I'm a little confused by this, the video you posted shows an automatic Fiesta, and where our clutch assembly would connect on the manual there is a grommet that you can easily use. On the manual ST, this area seems to be replaced by the clutch assembly. Where is the grommet that you drilled through? I am having trouble finding it. I have taken a picture that shows where the grommet would be in the video you posted, but I am having a hard time finding where the wire can come through in our manual ST:

View attachment 1245

The video I posted was so that you can reference how to run the wire to the back of the car. If you make an incision to the grommet I posted, it feeds in further up top.

 

[mongoose221]

I had no issues running speaker wire on both sides. Rca lines on pass, power on driver's.
Sounds great.
Also what fuse are people tapping into out of curiosity

 

[MKVIIST]

F1 is the ignition switch.

 

[bduane]

Awesome, thanks for answering my newb questions!

Regarding the LOC. My understanding is that some amps accept low and high level inputs, in which case you don't need one? But if Crutchfield lists my amp (P3001) as "Speaker Level Inputs: No", this means I need a LOC, is that correct?

I also understand that the PAC SNI-35 is adjustable, did you have to adjust yours? How would you know if it needed to be adjusted/tuned?

Edit: I found others suggesting to turn the gain all the way up on the LOC, and then start with the gain all the way down on the amp, and only then if the AC output voltage is too high on the AMP, reduce the gain on the LOC. Does this sound about right?

 

[stuntdoogie]

Anyone experiencing engine static noise with your sub/amp installation? Just curious.

 

[mongoose221]

I have none

 

[lessard.dcj]

None here

 

[lessard.dcj]

I ran the power for my loc from the main power of the amp. If you want to adjust the loc i would use a multi meter and read the output voltage as you turn up the volume. Then you can adjust from the results .

 

[bduane]

Alright, found the grommet you were talking about and was able to poke a hole through it with a small pick. Then I used the tool that is included in a tire plug kit to feed a small (maybe 18 guage) wi)re through. Taped that to a larger 12 guage wire, then finally the 8 guage power cable and was able to pull it all through. I then used an old metal wire coat hanger as a hook to help feed the cable through the B-Pillar. I removed my rear seat bottom, and didn't do it so gracefully one one side. There is a small level under the seat on each side that you must move to release the seat. I thought it was more like a snap that just needed some pressure to pop off, and ended up pulling the whole piece out. Luckily it didn't seem damaged and it popped right back in.

I now have a power cable in the trunk. Next is the remote wire , I am going to take the advice of using a fuse tap, it was fairly easy to route the cables under the weather stripping to the trunk once I got through the firewall and cleared it of the moving parts (like the clutch pedal).

 

[bduane]

Also, are you partial to the PAC LOC? Or was it just what is available? I can find other brands of LOC's locally, but I'd have to order the PAC in, wasn't sure if the PAC was more highly regarded or anything?

 

[MKVIIST]

Not partial to PAC, but they make good products so I just stick with them.

 

[MKVIIST]

Anyone experiencing engine static noise with your sub/amp installation? Just curious.

No issues here buddy. Did you get your system installed yet?

 

[stuntdoogie]

No issues here buddy. Did you get your system installed yet?

No not yet. Need tires and COBB intake & Exhaust first

 

[mongoose221]

Priorities bro.

 

[bduane]

F1 is the ignition switch.

I'm 90% done, but my amp is always on... as soon as I tap into F1, the amp turns on, regardless of whether i have the key on me or the car is on or off.

I also tried tapping into F3 for the instrument cluster and 10 for Audio System / SYNC... all 3 seem to be always on... don't understand it, any ideas? I guess I will keep trying different fuses until I find one that is not on when the car is not "on". Is it because our car is a little weird in the sense that it is "on" even without a key in it?

 

[Phinnegan]

On when the car is running.