I have been doing this kind of crap to cars for a long time as I have a long history of driving/tracking/modifying older German cars, had several 944 turbo's and a bunch of 95-99 M3's, one of those with an AA turbo kit. And I always like to enjoy the car as stock a little while and make incremental changes before big power adders. This is just my advice and what I will do with the FiST over the coming months and by no means an indictment of people that drop $3k on parts in the first 48 hours of ownership, that's cool as well.
Being that this is first and foremost an "economy" platform you have to know that even though its a Ford Performance division baby it still has roots in cheaper car lines. Keeping that in mind I like to look for low hanging fruit for my first upgrades to compensate for cost saving decisions on larger items. Basically the motor is an air pump, so anything you can do to assist in it getting more of what it wants in and out easier you are rewarded with a more efficient, happy, and longer lasting motor.
First up is a higher flowing exhaust, mandrel bends, nothing crazy, from the cat-back. Must be larger than stock and flow exhaust gasses easier. I went with an Aluminized MBRP strictly based on cost, serves its purpose well and was under $400 if I remember right.
Second was on the induction side, I kept it simple with a Green drop in filter, but I also looked at the induction track to and from the airbox. The induction tube from the airbox being replaced by a higher capacity unit with less internal turbulence should help a bunch. Also possibly one of those snorkels for the airbox, I'll buy the one on the upcoming ST200 and maybe a Mishimoto induction tube for my '16.
Third for me is to examine the spark plug situation, they are pretty cheap plugs and a few of the tuners on here sell high quality replacements, pre-gapped, and one step colder range. This will help the engine deal with the more air in/out and be more resistant to knock/pre-detonation that will cause the ECU to pull timing, lose power.
Fourth I'm going to likely upgrade the factory bypass valve and possibly the wastegate actuator. These are ALWAYS a shortchanged stock part on turbo cars from the factory. The ones that came on my Audi 1.8t were a joke and that was not a cheap car. I don't know what way I will go but a blow-off valve is not exactly "age-appropriate" for me on a daily drive, I'm old and have kids. Back in the day I can remember strapping a duck call to one on a friend's Supra, hilarious.
Finally, lets talk fluids, use the highest octane gas you can get, only buy from newer gas stations, and stick to a name brand. The rule my dad use to tell me was "if they don't sponsor some form of racing than don't buy it". I am lucky to get 93 octane where I live, your car may take a tank full to adjust to the higher octane but you really aren't spending allot more than what you pay for the cheap crap. Use synthetic oil, period. Doesn't matter if its a cracked hydrocarbon blend, yadda, yadda, yadda, just make sure its a name brand synthetic and in the correct viscosity for your car. The only fluids I typically spend a premium on are for the diff and tranny fluids, I buy nice shit, it'll be in there for a long time, and you only need like 2 bottles for most cars.
That's pretty much it. With the exception of the exhaust these are all pretty cheap upgrades that will really set you up right before you throw a Cobb AP on the car. These are tried and true old car guy things, nothing earth shattering, but if you did them all at the same time you'd really feel a difference in your drive without ever flashing the computer. Its really a win/win as you'll see better gas mileage, quicker throttle response from a start and when you punch it while cruising. There really is no downside and your motor will thank you later when you go stage 1 or 2.
Being that this is first and foremost an "economy" platform you have to know that even though its a Ford Performance division baby it still has roots in cheaper car lines. Keeping that in mind I like to look for low hanging fruit for my first upgrades to compensate for cost saving decisions on larger items. Basically the motor is an air pump, so anything you can do to assist in it getting more of what it wants in and out easier you are rewarded with a more efficient, happy, and longer lasting motor.
First up is a higher flowing exhaust, mandrel bends, nothing crazy, from the cat-back. Must be larger than stock and flow exhaust gasses easier. I went with an Aluminized MBRP strictly based on cost, serves its purpose well and was under $400 if I remember right.
Second was on the induction side, I kept it simple with a Green drop in filter, but I also looked at the induction track to and from the airbox. The induction tube from the airbox being replaced by a higher capacity unit with less internal turbulence should help a bunch. Also possibly one of those snorkels for the airbox, I'll buy the one on the upcoming ST200 and maybe a Mishimoto induction tube for my '16.
Third for me is to examine the spark plug situation, they are pretty cheap plugs and a few of the tuners on here sell high quality replacements, pre-gapped, and one step colder range. This will help the engine deal with the more air in/out and be more resistant to knock/pre-detonation that will cause the ECU to pull timing, lose power.
Fourth I'm going to likely upgrade the factory bypass valve and possibly the wastegate actuator. These are ALWAYS a shortchanged stock part on turbo cars from the factory. The ones that came on my Audi 1.8t were a joke and that was not a cheap car. I don't know what way I will go but a blow-off valve is not exactly "age-appropriate" for me on a daily drive, I'm old and have kids. Back in the day I can remember strapping a duck call to one on a friend's Supra, hilarious.
Finally, lets talk fluids, use the highest octane gas you can get, only buy from newer gas stations, and stick to a name brand. The rule my dad use to tell me was "if they don't sponsor some form of racing than don't buy it". I am lucky to get 93 octane where I live, your car may take a tank full to adjust to the higher octane but you really aren't spending allot more than what you pay for the cheap crap. Use synthetic oil, period. Doesn't matter if its a cracked hydrocarbon blend, yadda, yadda, yadda, just make sure its a name brand synthetic and in the correct viscosity for your car. The only fluids I typically spend a premium on are for the diff and tranny fluids, I buy nice shit, it'll be in there for a long time, and you only need like 2 bottles for most cars.
That's pretty much it. With the exception of the exhaust these are all pretty cheap upgrades that will really set you up right before you throw a Cobb AP on the car. These are tried and true old car guy things, nothing earth shattering, but if you did them all at the same time you'd really feel a difference in your drive without ever flashing the computer. Its really a win/win as you'll see better gas mileage, quicker throttle response from a start and when you punch it while cruising. There really is no downside and your motor will thank you later when you go stage 1 or 2.
![[histerical]](/images/smilies/histerical.gif "Histerical [histerical]")
that I would not be able to drive!
