What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?

[Sam4]

I just did the cutout to give me 90% of the minor temp drop they provide without spending $150 for the looks
BUT... my cut is ghetto AF, I'll have to clean it up when I do an IC upgrade. hehe..

Looks?? I'm banking on a 20% bump in HP!! (Maybe the only bump is to my brain...)

 

[danbfree]

YES, getting the engine oil good and hot, for an extended period of time, is the ONLY thing that burns off acid producing moisture, and the fuel dilution our DI systems (on the factory tune at least) are sooo prone to dumping into our sumps through blow-by, and wash down , especially for colder climate short tripping and excessive idling.

I would even chance extending my OCIs out by 3000+ miles more (over the ~4K miles I do currently) IF I used this thing out on the highway every day for a couple of hours.

That makes sense, but at least the DI oil dilution is better on our engines that most other, especially earlier designed, DI engines. And this is the first time I've heard tune being mentioned regarding oil dilution, can you explain more how a tune matters? I also don't think all the guys getting Blackstone results back saying 8500 mile OCI were driving an hour on the freeway minimum every day either though... Also, another divisive opinion I have is that I think catch cans are borderline worthless on our cars, after screwing with the factory PCV system pressure that facilitates decently effective twin internal oil baffling, you catch mostly water and very thin oil that who knows, might be caught under full sealed PCV pressures anyway, not to mention adding maintenance and points of failure. The only thing they help with for sure is keeping oil out of your charge pipes but htat's not really an issue to worry about anyway...

Anyway, I'm just genuinely curious and you're really knowledgeable, although we don't always agree 100% on everything, it would be scary if we did... heh.

 

[Business6]

Oh man, maybe because I did it at only like 1200 miles but those RMM bolts are a cinch without doing anything with the engine. I assume you are using a breaker bar? They are like $9 at Harbor Freight, but when I did mine close to when the car was new I didn't even need that... haven't done my IC yet, so I'm going to reading and watching vids a ton before tackling that...

Not a whole lot of room to get any leverage with a breaker bar under there when on the stands. Again, it has as much to do with the 44k miles and such on the car as my shoulder injury.

 

[Jerickson88]

Not a whole lot of room to get any leverage with a breaker bar under there when on the stands. Again, it has as much to do with the 44k miles and such on the car as my shoulder injury.

I know all about those all too well. I did two trans services today on vehicles I had to squeeze under and didn't have the means to jack 14k lbs and put on stands. I wrecked a bike 10 years ago and dislocated both shoulders, so extensive overhead kills me.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^TRUE, and AGREED that our EcoBoosts are much better at lower fuel dilution, less chance of LSPI, AND somewhat lower intake valve deposits than many/most other boosted direct injection systems! (But they still suffer from all three above problems to some degree.)

I am just speculating on the tune thing, but since the factory fuel trim calibrations seem to be skewed towards safety/longevity, my thought is that the Ford power train engineers tune our ECMs a bit rich, as compared to aftermarket tuners who might push things a bit further, and lean fuel trims out for more power (while all requiring colder plugs to help counteract any negatives for doing this).

I am just going by how badly my car's used (even < 3K mile interval) oil reeks of fuel, and just how sooty the inside of the exhaust's turn down tip gets.

I will not even get into the whole catch can shitstorm thing, as that has been beaten to death, brought back to life a thousand times, and then beaten to death once again, over on bitog.

(I do have a Damond on this car though, I will admit.)

 

[danbfree]

Not a whole lot of room to get any leverage with a breaker bar under there when on the stands. Again, it has as much to do with the 44k miles and such on the car as my shoulder injury.

I know all about those all too well. I did two trans services today on vehicles I had to squeeze under and didn't have the means to jack 14k lbs and put on stands. I wrecked a bike 10 years ago and dislocated both shoulders, so extensive overhead kills me.

What about using ramps? I rarely use jack stands as they are a bitch to even fit into the proper place around the jack. For more clearance I just skip the creeper and lay right on the garage floor (sometimes use cardboard if it's cold, LOL) and I'm a 5'10" 220lb guy with a 38 waist and still fit just fine, just a little tight. Did this for my DV and inlet upgrade too.

 

[Jerickson88]

What about using ramps? I rarely use jack stands as they are a bitch to even fit into the proper place around the jack. For more clearance I just skip the creeper and lay right on the garage floor (sometimes use cardboard if it's cold, LOL) and I'm a 5'10" 220lb guy with a 38 waist and still fit just fine, just a little tight. Did this for my DV and inlet upgrade too.

Same build lol. I was working on ground support equipment at a local airport. Eagle Tug and Tug Conveyor. One with a Yanmar 4cyl, the other a ford 3.8L would have loved to use ramps, but the tail and nose is very low and all welded 3/8" steel body. It is what is it.

 

[DieselMech]

Cleanest it’s gonna look in the spring with all this pollen. Permanent tags come tomorrow

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[danbfree]

^^TRUE, and AGREED that our EcoBoosts are much better at lower fuel dilution, less chance of LSPI, AND somewhat lower intake valve deposits than many/most other boosted direct injection systems! (But they still suffer from all three above problems to some degree.)

I am just speculating on the tune thing, but since the factory fuel trim calibrations seem to be skewed towards safety/longevity, my thought is that the Ford power train engineers tune our ECMs a bit rich, as compared to aftermarket tuners who might push things a bit further, and lean fuel trims out for more power (while all requiring colder plugs to help counteract any negatives for doing this).

I am just going by how badly my car's used (even < 3K mile interval) oil reeks of fuel, and just how sooty the inside of the exhaust's turn down tip gets.

I will not even get into the whole catch can shitstorm thing, as that has been beaten to death, brought back to life a thousand times, and then beaten to death once again, over on bitog.

(I do have a Damond on this car though, I will admit.)

Great stuff man, always happy to hear your thoughts... I'll skip the catch can debate with you, I'm not the type to bash someone for doing them, I just like to explain my thought process on why I decided to skip them, that's all. One of those things where a good argument can be made either way... Anyway, you bring up a good point about leaning out, as it's a delicate balance between going too lean/heat to make power and too rich for more carbon/less power but cooler temps/reliability. I had a Kia 1.6T before this and holy rich factory tune Batman, black smoke at WOT even with full factory exhaust, some guys were even getting pulled over for it! I suppose thats what happens when the bean counters tell the engineers to make the engine last 100k for warranty and you then don't even get 30 on the freeway. So that with the inability to tune easily/cheaply, crappy steering and shit IRS I didn't want to mess with had me trade it in for my FiST. That Kia was reliable and well made but not a drivers car at all, no surprise there right? LOL At least the Fist has amazing steering and about the best possible torsion beam rear suspension you can get in a small car...

Anyway, I'm assuming that the step colder plugs simply help prevent pre-ignition under lean conditions, so it's always a good idea if tuned? Was just chatting with a buddy today and he was asking why exactly he should go step colder and only thing I could tell him was that at a step colder you'll avoid pre-ignition and will have less negative corrections and consistently make the most power possible, especially in the upper RPM's where certain excellent tuners do make our car pull a little better than stock anyway, at over 5000RPM. So I guess I wasn't far off and you've now helped me fill in the details...

 

[DieselMech]

Great stuff man, always happy to hear your thoughts... I'll skip the catch can debate with you, I'm not the type to bash someone for doing them, I just like to explain my thought process on why I decided to skip them, that's all. One of those things where a good argument can be made either way... Anyway, you bring up a good point about leaning out, as it's a delicate balance between going too lean/heat to make power and too rich for more carbon/less power but cooler temps/reliability. I had a Kia 1.6T before this and holy rich factory tune Batman, black smoke even with full factory exhaust, some guys were even getting pulled over for it! I suppose thats what happens when the bean counters tell the engineers to make the engine last 100k for warranty and you then don't even get 30 on the freeway. So that with the inability to tune easily/cheaply, crappy steering and shit IRS I didn't want to mess with had me trade it in for my FiST. That Kia was reliable and well made but not a drivers car at all, no surprise there right? LOL At least the Fist has amazing steering and about the best possible torsion beam rear suspension you can get in a small car...

Anyway, I'm assuming that the step colder plugs simply help prevent pre-ignition under lean conditions, so it's always a good idea if tuned? Was just chatting with a buddy today and he was asking why exactly he should go step colder and only thing I could tell him was that at a step colder you'll avoid pre-ignition and will have less negative corrections and consistently make the most power possible, especially in the upper RPM's where certain excellent tuners do make our car pull a little better than stock anyway, at over 5000RPM. So I guess I wasn't far off and you've now helped me fill in the details...

Spot on answer you gave him [emoji108]


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[SeaTaco]

More like what i stuffed on my FiST...[emoji16]

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[KnockOff]

Advice to anyone doing the rmm, the scissor Jack that came with the car is small and can push the engine up just a bit to help.[emoji106]

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[koozy]

5 minutes into the video you can see trans fluid pouring out when the drive shaft comes out.

https://youtu.be/QlSHF5y8ZaI

 

[Ford ST]

5 minutes into the video you can see trans fluid pouring out when the drive shaft comes out.

https://youtu.be/QlSHF5y8ZaI

Of course I've never pulled out a CV axle in my life that didn't have fluid pour out behind it, unless I previously drained the fluid.

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[koozy]

Same here, but glad this guy didn't so that people can see how much fluid is behind the driveshafts.

 

[Jerickson88]

 

[brbauer2]

Just been using the FiST as transport for parts and tools to fix up the Jeep.

Worked on the rear suspension today.

Parts were a little worn...

Front end will be over this weekend.

Hopefully get my Whoosh crossover and boost hose kit on next weekend and start prepping for the autocross season to begin in May.

 

[JDG]

This just showed up...

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[M-Sport fan]

^^^

Even the kittehs approve!

Who's gonna install it?

 

[JDG]

^^^

Even the kittehs approve!

Who's gonna install it?

This guy! Gonna replace the clutch, space cylinder, and flywheel while I’m in there too.


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