What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?

[DieselMech]

No, fair enough, I'm just curious, but I had heard it takes about 2.1L to get to the "1 inch from the top" fill spec anyway...

I had heard that too, but I also read of some people using less than 2qts to reach that fill level. Mine was there at just under two so I stopped.


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[koozy]

so much misinformation, sad....

 

[danbfree]

I had heard that too, but I also read of some people using less than 2qts to reach that fill level. Mine was there at just under two so I stopped.

Whoa, now that IS interesting! I guess where Whoosh says 2 qt (1.88L) is perfect, they aren't kidding!

 

[danbfree]

so much misinformation, sad....

True, for sure, but at least we can all pretty much agree that the 1.5-1.67L most people are draining from factory is not enough... Because I'm modded and didn't have enough of a clunk to get warranty on my trans anyway, it left me on the hook for $40 for the Ravenol just to get mine working as it should have from the factory. I actually test drove a loaded model with Recaro's and sunroof and it shifted better, for sure, over my base model with black wheels I ended up having brought in from another dealer, so it definitely can really vary on what you get when brand new too.

 

[Jerickson88]

Oil change, Liqui Moly Molygen, FL910s filter, and brake flush/exchange ATE Typ 200. Motul 300 on the way

Hulk juice.

 

[danbfree]

Oil change, Liqui Moly Molygen, FL910s filter, and brake flush/exchange ATE Typ 200. Motul 300 on the way

Hulk juice.

Should have changed your original incorrect filter number to FL-400S, just a little more capacity but better filtering too while maintaining pressure better, actually lowers temps a tiny bit too.

 

[Jerickson88]

Should have changed your original incorrect filter number to FL-400S, just a little more capacity but better filtering too while maintaining pressure better, actually lowers temps a tiny bit too.

Probably so. I had crossed into a Wix racing filter (the fl400s dimensional equivalent) but not sure if increasing the flow rate was worth sacrificing the filtration. But I plan to change every 3-4 track/autox or 3k miles anyways.

I'm iffy about the wix racing, so I didn't buy.

 

[danbfree]

Probably so. I had crossed into a Wix racing filter (the fl400s dimensional equivalent) but not sure if increasing the flow rate was worth sacrificing the filtration. But I plan to change every 3-4 track/autox or 3k miles anyways.

Fair enough, I'm always curious about peoples choices... I heard the FL400S actually filters better and that's why tuners recommend it but prob VERY little difference anyway, especially if changing that much and they are cheap, hehe.

 

[Jerickson88]

Fair enough, I'm always curious about peoples choices... I heard the FL400S actually filters better and that's why tuners recommend it but prob VERY little difference anyway, especially if changing that much and they are cheap, hehe.

I am reassigning the cars purpose in my life lol. I am not opposed to the larger filter, and may give it a whirl but I know that the fl910s are efficient too. You should compare the specs for the wix equivalent. They have flow rate and filtration specs. Neat read.

I'll pick one up for the next change

 

[danbfree]

I am reassigning the cars purpose in my life lol. I am not opposed to the larger filter, and may give it a whirl but I know that the fl910s are efficient too. You should compare the specs for the wix equivalent. They have flow rate and filtration specs. Neat read.

I'll pick one up for the next change

I think I did back when I first got my FiST, I went with a Bosch the first time but Motorcraft after that since they are so cheap and have the same specs as the good Wix and whatnot... but I'll have to read more into that again. But when you can get a great filter and oil for $24 total at Wally World, there's no reason to worry too much, I just change every 6k even when almost everyone who has had a Blackstone done says we're good for around 8500 miles as long as you use decent full synthetic.

 

[Jerickson88]

I think I did back when I first got my FiST, I went with a Bosch the first time but Motorcraft after that since they are so cheap and have the same specs as the good Wix and whatnot... but I'll have to read more into that again. But when you can get a great filter and oil for $24 total at Wally World, there's no reason to worry too much, I just change every 6k even when almost everyone who has had a Blackstone done says we're good for around 8500 miles as long as you use decent full synthetic.

Oh I agree. I'm just concerned about spending several hours driving the piss out of the car at a time.

 

[Intuit]

Why "almost" 2 qts? At 1.89L, a full 2 qts is the minimum I'd put in... you say "to each their own" but if the IB5 takes 2.1L I just don't see how an additional gear added with an IB6, assuming same internal capacity, would take it down to only 1.67L as in the manual... only 1.5L came out of mine at 12k, that is ridiculously and dangerously low to me, a new car shouldn't have so much whining and grinding. I actual had minimal "clunk", so that wasn't enough to even bother to try to get warranty for the half shaft TSB, where after repair they are instructed to add 2L. So doing a full 2L of Ravenol (BG Synchro looks great too) REALLY helped a lot and made my trans how it should have been new... I know if I kept driving it with the only 1.5L I would have certainly damaged the trans over time... Anyway, I think you should be fine, just wanted to add my experience in using 2L and how Ford uses that much after a warranty repair too...

I've observed this before with some other members and there seems to be some confusion about the role that the transmission fluid plays with the axle shafts. The axle shafts are not affected by the fluid level and/or quality. No part of the axle shafts are lubricated by the transaxle fluid. (splines included) The wear item on an axle shaft, is the constant velocity joints. (Murphy aside.)

Generic cutaways of transaxle final drive assemblies...

 

[danbfree]

Oh I agree. I'm just concerned about spending several hours driving the piss out of the car at a time.

Full synthetic hold it's full protective properties until at least 260 degrees and getting oil nice and hot for a long time actually burns off impurities too, short trips where the oil doesn't get to get hot and with no send are the worst for our cars, you'll be fine!

 

[danbfree]

I've observed this before with some other members and there seems to be some confusion about the role that the transmission fluid plays with the axle shafts. The axle shafts are not affected by the fluid level and/or quality. No part of the axle shafts are lubricated by the transaxle fluid. (splines included) The wear item on an axle shaft, is the constant velocity joints. (Murphy aside.)

Generic cutaways of transaxle final drive assemblies...

I've always wondered what the relationship was, thanks for clarifying! So interesting Ford advises service techs to use 2L after a half shaft repair, shows that there are other good reasons then I'd say!

 

[M-Sport fan]

Full synthetic hold it's full protective properties until at least 260 degrees and getting oil nice and hot for a long time actually burns off impurities too, short trips where the oil doesn't get to get hot and with no send are the worst for our cars, you'll be fine!

YES, getting the engine oil good and hot, for an extended period of time, is the ONLY thing that burns off acid producing moisture, and the fuel dilution our DI systems (on the factory tune at least) are sooo prone to dumping into our sumps through blow-by, and wash down , especially for colder climate short tripping and excessive idling.

I would even chance extending my OCIs out by 3000+ miles more (over the ~4K miles I do currently) IF I used this thing out on the highway every day for a couple of hours.

 

[Jerickson88]

YES, getting the engine oil good and hot, for an extended period of time, is the ONLY thing that burns off acid producing moisture, and the fuel dilution our DI systems (on the factory tune at least) are sooo prone to dumping into our sumps through blow-by, and wash down , especially for colder climate short tripping and excessive idling.

I would even chance extending my OCIs out by 3000+ miles more (over the ~4K miles I do currently) IF I used this thing out on the highway every day for a couple of hours.

Lol, so long highway trips at 7t are good on a 3k interval, but what about 3-4 track days of HARD use?

 

[Business6]

Tried install the AWR rmm and could not remove the lower bolts or even make them budge. I'm guessing it's because the weight of the engine was resting on them with the car on stands but I was too concerned to put my floor jack under the engine to support it a bit.

Then I tried removing the bumper to finally install a levels front mount. Nope. Those fucking 8mm side bolts are awful to get at. I managed to get the top and bottom eventually but even with a u-joint I couldn't get torque on the middle one.

Had to give up anyways as my shoulder injury began to flare up. Oh well, I tried

 

[Sam4]

Installed the Velossa Tech Big Mouth. Challenging to say the least! The nut (either using the tools, or securing the scoop) was a nylock and there was no way any wrench was going back in there, so a finger tight, regular 6mm nut instead. I think Velossa Tech could have supplied a template for the cut out too.

 

[danbfree]

Tried install the AWR rmm and could not remove the lower bolts or even make them budge. I'm guessing it's because the weight of the engine was resting on them with the car on stands but I was too concerned to put my floor jack under the engine to support it a bit.

Then I tried removing the bumper to finally install a levels front mount. Nope. Those fucking 8mm side bolts are awful to get at. I managed to get the top and bottom eventually but even with a u-joint I couldn't get torque on the middle one.

Had to give up anyways as my shoulder injury began to flare up. Oh well, I tried

Oh man, maybe because I did it at only like 1200 miles but those RMM bolts are a cinch without doing anything with the engine. I assume you are using a breaker bar? They are like $9 at Harbor Freight, but when I did mine close to when the car was new I didn't even need that... haven't done my IC yet, so I'm going to reading and watching vids a ton before tackling that...

 

[danbfree]

Installed the Velossa Tech Big Mouth. Challenging to say the least! The nut (either using the tools, or securing the scoop) was a nylock and there was no way any wrench was going back in there, so a finger tight, regular 6mm nut instead. I think Velossa Tech could have supplied a template for the cut out too.

I just did the cutout to give me 90% of the minor temp drop they provide without spending $150 for the looks
BUT... my cut is ghetto AF, I'll have to clean it up when I do an IC upgrade. hehe..