Transmission fluid change

[Intuit]

Yeah, we DID get a bit sidetracked.

That almost never happens...

 

[M-Sport fan]

That almost never happens...

Yeah, and I will admit that I am one of the guilty 'culprits' more often than not, as far as that 'crime' is concerned.

 

[stascom]

Just changed to MTF-2. Drained 2.5L of factory fluid And I only have 2 bottles... 2L better be enough.

 

[ron@whoosh]

Just changed to MTF-2. Drained 2.5L of factory fluid And I only have 2 bottles... 2L better be enough.

I've been adding 2 liters with every change and all seems just fine
when draining the fluid I also raise the car a bit on the pass side to make sure I get as much out of the transaxle as possible

 

[M-Sport fan]

Just changed to MTF-2. Drained 2.5L of factory fluid And I only have 2 bottles... 2L better be enough.

WOW!

The factory is now over-filling by THAT MUCH?!?

I guess that TSB/dealer alert to overfill the IB6 to stave off gear whine, or whatever else (?), was REAL!!

I will stick with 2 full liters on my changes.

 

[Volumetrik]

Here is a quick run-down of my fluid change :

2L of Ravenol MTF-3

Fished the fill tube

Beware, the fluid will spill onto the suspension bushing

Color of the fluid (YEESH)

Some people here had no trouble putting in 2L of fluid from the fill port, but for me, there is a bit that over spilled. (The car was level) The tube was in a good 2 inches.

Not that much though.

Here is the amount of fluid I had in my transmission. A hair above 1.5L Just besides it is an identical bottle filled with 2L of water. You can see the difference. The wood block is there as a flat level indicator.

Quite shocking honestly.

I am VERY glad I changed the oil. The drain plug was super dirty on the inside and the fluid looked dead.

As far as shift quality and weight, I would say that it's 40% heavier and 25% smoother. I thought I would see a more drastic difference considering the comments of people in this thread, but I'm still happy I changed it.

 

[M-Sport fan]

The MTF-3 is a bit lighter/less viscous than the MTF-2 fluid, but BOTH are lighter than the Motul Gear 300, and slightly heavier than the factory (or other) DCT fluids.

IF I lived up in the North Country/northern tier states or provinces, I would probably opt for the Ravenol MTF-3 as well.

 

[Sprinkle_Star]

Does the service manual mention anything about torque specs for the fill and drain plugs?

 

[cxwrench]

No need to spill during the entire process. Crack the fill plug enough that it moves. Loosen the drain plug a bit, just enough that it starts to drain, then loosen/remove the fill plug. It will start to drain slowly but smoothly because the hole is still partially plugged. If you remove the drain plug completely you'll end up getting some on the suspension. Once the flow slows down you can remove the plug and let it drain completely.

 

[Volumetrik]

The MTF-3 is a bit lighter/less viscous than the MTF-2 fluid, but BOTH are lighter than the Motul Gear 300, and slightly heavier than the factory (or other) DCT fluids.

IF I lived up in the North Country/northern tier states or provinces, I would probably opt for the Ravenol MTF-3 as well.

Yes exactly ! After the discussion we had in the other transmission fluid thread, I settled on the MTF-3. I am looking forward to seeing the difference in the winter.

 

[Volumetrik]

No need to spill during the entire process. Crack the fill plug enough that it moves. Loosen the drain plug a bit, just enough that it starts to drain, then loosen/remove the fill plug. It will start to drain slowly but smoothly because the hole is still partially plugged. If you remove the drain plug completely you'll end up getting some on the suspension. Once the flow slows down you can remove the plug and let it drain completely.

Yes that's entirely right. I had the fill plug completely removed and when I removed the drain plug, it poured out like a jet !


As far as torque specs, when I cracked mine open, they were super tight, I had to put a 10 in or so cheater bar on my Allen key to crack them open.

When I put them back, I torqued them as much as I could by hand with the allen key without a cheater bar.

In any case, I am not even sure if you can fit a torque wrench on the fill plug.

 

[meatloafman69]

I started using all Royal Purple products after my warranty ran out. Just got two quarts of their Max Gear 75-90 Synthetic Eager to see how it does. I will report back after I get it changed and drive it a few days. Might be a few weeks though, super busy at work

 

[redmoe]

The torque is 40 Nm which is approx 29.5 ftlbs

 

[Sprinkle_Star]

The torque is 40 Nm which is approx 29.5 ftlbs

Many thanks!

 

[TyphoonFiST]

It's not like it's a wheel lug nuts...hub bearings or a cylinder head people. Screw it into the threads....get it tight and 1/2 turn it. As much time as some people spend Torqing shit and looking for specs. you could be enjoying it....IMO.

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Sprinkle_Star]

It's not like it's a wheel lug nuts...hub bearings or a cylinder head people. Screw it into the threads....get it tight and 1/2 turn it. As much time as some people spend Torqing shit and looking for specs. you could be enjoying it....IMO.

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk

Haha, I already got what I was looking for.

 

[dmb]

is it npt?

 

[danbfree]

It's not like it's a wheel lug nuts...hub bearings or a cylinder head people. Screw it into the threads....get it tight and 1/2 turn it. As much time as some people spend Torqing shit and looking for specs. you could be enjoying it....IMO.

It's not exactly time consuming to find out the proper torque spec so at least you know that you are close... When I did my RMM I made sure to torque to 50 ft/lbs as I didn't want any creaks, groans or slop in it, many times it's for good reason although a drain plug I can see not sweating the details either... About a 1/2 turn and knowing it's about 30 ft/lbs translates to a one UGGHA torque level for something that doesn't really need to be exact or even able to fit a torque wrench into very easily.

 

[danbfree]

Here is a quick run-down of my fluid change :

2L of Ravenol MTF-3

(complete process)

I am VERY glad I changed the oil. The drain plug was super dirty on the inside and the fluid looked dead.

As far as shift quality and weight, I would say that it's 40% heavier and 25% smoother. I thought I would see a more drastic difference considering the comments of people in this thread, but I'm still happy I changed it.

Thank you for the complete process in pics! I'm gonna try MTF-2 first as it's what meets spec and see what happens!

 

[danbfree]

The MTF-3 is a bit lighter/less viscous than the MTF-2 fluid, but BOTH are lighter than the Motul Gear 300, and slightly heavier than the factory (or other) DCT fluids.

IF I lived up in the North Country/northern tier states or provinces, I would probably opt for the Ravenol MTF-3 as well.

No need to spill during the entire process. Crack the fill plug enough that it moves. Loosen the drain plug a bit, just enough that it starts to drain, then loosen/remove the fill plug. It will start to drain slowly but smoothly because the hole is still partially plugged. If you remove the drain plug completely you'll end up getting some on the suspension. Once the flow slows down you can remove the plug and let it drain completely.

Thanks for this good info to go along with the full process posted, I now have the nerve to go ahead and do this myself... At only 8000 miles even with a short shift plate I'm having some issues and don't want to deal with the dealer and possibly having to take out my short shift plate for no good reason.