Brake job mistake

[boombots]

I'll try and get a video of the pedal. Ive never had a pedal far so deep to make a car stop.
It just feels softer than it should but I'm beginning to wonder if I'm crazy and it feels fine and the issue is only stopping power but I'm skeptical...

I will try pads to rule it out and hopefully that is it...

These aren't race pads, they are the hp Street pads. I tried hard to get them hot. I tried to make 70 to zero stops back to back to back but no luck producing any better performance. Plus the stopping distance was absurd.

As far as ABS. It is really hard to get any tire lock up. Straight line no chance to do it. I got it to squeal at 15-20 diving into a turn but not sure if it was abs braking squeal and the turning squeal...

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[CanadianGuy]

Try wet pavement or gravel for abs. On gravel it will be hard to feel but the pedal should kick back.

 

[haste]

70-0 stops back to back on a street pad is not a good idea. your pads and rotors may be fubar.

 

[D1JL]

To test the ABS, you should:

On a smooth paved surface, from about 40-50 mph.
Step hard and constantly on the brake pedal.

You should feel a pulsing of the brake pedal.
You should/may hear the tires skid in very short bursts, this is because as soon as the ABS detects a wheel lock up it releases pressure to that wheel.
The faster you go, the more pronounced these reactions will be however I would NOT want you to be unsafe especially if you are unsure of the braking system.



Dave

 

[D1JL]

Try wet pavement or gravel for abs. On gravel it will be hard to feel but the pedal should kick back.

I live in Los Angeles, not too many gravel roads in the city any more.
We also don't have much wet any more either.
I have always used the rear empty parking lot of a shopping center near by (before they open).




Dave

 

[boombots]

I never got to zero on those stops. It was more like a 70-40 but the stopping power was just like a normal slow down. The brakes never even smelled hot.

I don't think you realize guys... It wont bite hard enough to even think about making the abs go. I tried my hardest on the drive home. Nothing. I live in the city so no gravel for me either.

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[boombots]

With that said, I've been eying up trucks (I have a boat to tow) as my old truck as been getting pretty tired. I love this car but I seriously doubt it's long term reliability for me. My transmission makes an awful whine and several dealers said it's normal. It's gotten worse recently too. I may see if a dealer will take it as a trade and not notice any brake issues, or even think it's normal as im told.

I wouldn't go ford though... I've had issues with this, my focus, and my gfs escape. Ive grown up a ford guy but recently I feel their reliability has sunk.

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[D1JL]

When troubleshooting a problem that didn't occur before you started it is always best to reverse the steps you did.
In this case you still have too many variables.
I would first go back to OEM pads.
Although it is hard to believe that pads could do this, you should eliminate the possibility.
If the rotors are clean of any oils, they should not be part of the problem.

Based on your original description of the way you did the brake job and the inability to bleed the brakes with just the master, I still believe the problem is in your ABS/HCU module.

I know the dealer bled the brakes using a pressure bleeder but I am curious if you can bleed the brakes just pumping the master now?


Good luck with trading it in if that is what you want to do.
I am glad I am not the unsuspecting person getting in it to drive.
It is like handing someone a gun and saying it is NOT loaded.
I know, I would not be able to sleep.

Also I am upset as that I may never hear how this was resolved.


Anyway, just tried to help.
Good Luck,
Dave

 

[westcoaST]

I had a similar problem when I changed to a Wilwood big brake kit. I ended up having to go to the dealer and having them cycle the ABS module while bleeding the brakes. Air got trapped in the ABS module and no amount of motive or gravity bleeding on my part would get it out.

 

[jeffreylyon]

I had a similar problem when I changed to a Wilwood big brake kit. I ended up having to go to the dealer and having them cycle the ABS module while bleeding the brakes. Air got trapped in the ABS module and no amount of motive or gravity bleeding on my part would get it out.

That sounds exactly like what I have. You went back to a dead-stiff pedal afterwards?

 

[westcoaST]

That sounds exactly like what I have. You went back to a dead-stiff pedal afterwards?

Yes, no problem afterward. It took a long time to bleed. When the Wilwoods are working well, you barely have to apply pressure. When they're not pedal sinks and car barely stops.

 

[jeffreylyon]

Yes, no problem afterward. It took a long time to bleed. When the Wilwoods are working well, you barely have to apply pressure. When they're not pedal sinks and car barely stops.

Oh, I don't have that problem - the car STOPS. But the pedal slowly bleeds down, not nearly so much as to bottom during a stop or so badly that it bleeds when I'm holding the car at a light, but it definitely bleeds.

Does anyone know if there's a way to fire the ABS module over the OBD-II interface so I can do this myself?

 

[D1JL]

In the OP's case, this raises the question as to if the dealer cycled the ABS/HCU with a diagnostic tool or just pressure bled the system?
For liability reasons any actions involving the ABS module should have noted on an invoice, yet no information of this has been given.

Operation and testing of the ABS system via the OBD-II /ALDL connector can only be done with a professional type ABS capable scan tool.




Dave

 

[jeffreylyon]

I took a quick drive during lunch and fired the ABS - 90% of my pedal bleed is gone. The pedal still needs to be pumped to get really firm and there is some spongy-ness that has take place of the bleed down so I'll do a nice, long thorough this weekend.

Thanks [MENTION=879]D1JL[/MENTION]!!

 

[boombots]

Btw car is still sitting in my garage. I moved it outside today as I'm going to take it when I go to a dealer to look at a truck. Noticed when you push the pedal down (you can push it to the floor) I can hear a popping, maybe bubbling sound coming from behind the dash, aka master or booster.

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[Ceecab705]

I took a quick drive during lunch and fired the ABS - 90% of my pedal bleed is gone. The pedal still needs to be pumped to get really firm and there is some spongy-ness that has take place of the bleed down so I'll do a nice, long thorough this weekend.

Thanks [MENTION=879]D1JL[/MENTION]!!

If you read posts 66 and 69 I suggested you activate the ABS.

 

[mouse]

Check the pads, they are directional kind of. I was having this same issue and it just kept bothering me and I finally found a picture of the oem pads. The outer pads in the front have these two little nubs on them while the inner pads are flat. I had installed them wrong on my car and didn't notice the difference between the two and there really is no mention of this in the DIYs. If you install the nubbed side on the piston side of the caliper, the piston hits those nubs first causing uneven pressure on the pad to rotor contact. Anyways, I was able to stop the car but at the same time able to push the brake pedal 3/4 of the way down in order to stop. It was mushy. Just check the pads, I made the change yesterday and now they feel just as good as the oem pads.

I installed the Hawk Performance 5.0 pads without bleeding the brakes.
The picture below is from another forum member. The pad on the top in the picture is the outer pad while the one on the bottom is the inner pad...Notice the location of the nubs.

 

[JDG]

Did this ever get resolved? I just did my front brakes and am having the same issue. When I compressed the piston in each of the front calipers, I forgot to remove the reservoir cap. Now each caliper is weeping brake fluid. I am hoping these are the only seals I blew out and replacing each caliper will solve the issue. After reading through this thread, I am pretty worried that I did more damage elsewhere (ABS module or master cylinder)..

 

[boombots]

I couldn't get it fixed myself and both local Ford dealership basically refused to work on it unless I put ford pads and rotors on. I limped it to a GMC dealer and traded it in as is on a truck. My next plan was brake booster. I wasn't loosing fluid from the calipers though...

Did this ever get resolved? I just did my front brakes and am having the same issue. When I compressed the piston in each of the front calipers, I forgot to remove the reservoir cap. Now each caliper is weeping brake fluid. I am hoping these are the only seals I blew out and replacing each caliper will solve the issue. After reading through this thread, I am pretty worried that I did more damage elsewhere (ABS module or master cylinder)..

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[JDG]

I couldn't get it fixed myself and both local Ford dealership basically refused to work on it unless I put ford pads and rotors on. I limped it to a GMC dealer and traded it in as is on a truck. My next plan was brake booster. I wasn't loosing fluid from the calipers though...

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That's a real bummer to hear. I just ordered new calipers this morning and should have them tomorrow.