WHEEL GROUP BUY Interest Poll - 949 Racing 6UL 4x108 Bolt Pattern

[M-Sport fan]

14.8 pounds!! http://949racing.com/17x8-6UL-4Lug.aspx

^^^About the ONLY thing that would pull me away from the TD Pros in ANY diameter, as long as they offer an 8" wide version in black gloss, or charcoal.

 

[BronxBomber]

^^^About the ONLY thing that would pull me away from the RD Pros in ANY diameter, as long as they offer an 8" wide version in black gloss, or charcoal.

This is what I want.

 

[LT Berzerker]

Very interested... In the little development... Wish I had the time to figure out how to make a 15x9 fit like raamaudio did, but running 200tw tires for autox/NASA TT & hdpe

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[jeffreylyon]

Wish I had the time to figure out how to make a 15x9 fit like raamaudio did, but running 200tw tires for autox/NASA TT & hdpe

I'm betting that I'm going to be able to make a 17x9 ET45 fit in the rear with a little fender massaging and in the front with a 15mm spacer - @RAMMAudio fit a 15x9 ET36 in the rear with a camber change and in the front after rolling the fenders and a 5mm spacer.

 

[LT Berzerker]

I'm betting that I'm going to be able to make a 17x9 ET45 fit in the rear with a little fender massaging and in the front with a 15mm spacer - @RAMMAudio fit a 15x9 ET36 in the rear with a camber change and in the front after rolling the fenders and a 5mm spacer.

Are you actually going to attempt this?

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[jeffreylyon]

Are you actually going to attempt this?

Yup - I'm going to pickup a set of 6UL 17x8 for the street and measure to make sure I can find the additional 1/2" on either side. If so, 17x9 for A/C.

 

[LT Berzerker]

Yup - I'm going to pickup a set of 6UL 17x8 for the street and measure to make sure I can find the additional 1/2" on either side. If so, 17x9 for A/C.

I can measure tonight on my car since I'm running 17x8 +38 td pr wheels, outside is easy dependent on the choice of tire (15x8 size), inside front....tight...

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[jeffreylyon]

I can measure tonight on my car since I'm running 17x8 +38 td pr wheels[/QUOTE]

I think that the problem spot for 17x9 ET45 is the inside front. I'm running coilovers so that will give me a tad more breathing room over stock struts but @RAMMAudio said he has to run a spacer to clear his coilovers with ET36 6ULs. I am interested in your fender clearance with ET38's - it looks like there's room, esp. after a roll, for x9 ET45.

 

[LT Berzerker]

Never touched a fender, and that's on Cobb springs touched the 215/40 falkens sidewall on the lip of the fender liner autoxing only (going from infield onto the oval banking at the Milwaukee Mile)... Coilovers you should clear inside... Outside will need a pull + you'll be limited on tire width choice to 215 most likely...

Ideally, a 6ul 15x9 running a 225/45r15 would be perfect.... But need coils first

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[RAAMaudio]

A bit off the topic but info some might need to consider as may not of seen it elsewhere posted.

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Notes on 15x9 +35mm(16 and 17x9 would be similar) fitment.

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Front, positive camber at the strut to knuckle plus 2mm spacer to clear the wheel and tire from hitting strut, -2.5 camber achieved at top of strut by drilling new holes in tower and slotting center opening.

A 17x9+45mm may put the wheel a bit closer to the strut, where you set camber will come into play, etc...sometimes things become a tradeoff, total wheel offset versus where to set the camber(strut to knuckle is better than top of strut when you can do it)

I had 1 and 5mm spacers on hand when I did the install, 1mm rubbed the wheel on the strut just lightly when hard cornering, wheels should be considered to have approx. 2mm of flex and the coilovers did not have a camber top hat available at the time but those require shorter springs longer is better)

I did the fronts first and could fit 225 R6 Hoosiers which are a super wide 225, more like a 240 or so, I had to loosen and pull the fenders a bit besides just roll them. The 225 RA1 only needed 1mm spacers, the 225 Rival S has a rim protector on both sides of the tire, why on the inside I have no clue, so I had to go to 2mm to clear the struts. With the Hoosiers I may of had the 5mm spacers on, I do not recall as it was 2.5 years ago, many mods since.

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Rear, Camber changed to -1.9 to clear the wheels but also because I wanted to match the front and rear specs better, just changing the fronts would loosen the rear of the car already designed to oversteer a bit and I was concerned with very high speed corners on race tracks having the rear step around is not a good thing in that situation to say the least.

I did this the hard way but a very solid way, cut and rewelded the axle flanges, getting it just right took three tries, many hours, on the last try I figured out a simpler method but this still requires some very good welding skills, a good camber and a good toe gauge setiup to get it right. I had to roll and pull the fenders to the point of a bit of distortion shows but nobody seems to notice it unless I point it out and I had to trim of the sealant on the inner to outer fender mating point, the 225 Hoosiers would not fit unless serious metal work was done.

(Note to those contemplating fender flares and wider or low offset wheels, etc...you will have to do the metal work, cutting out some of the fender inner and outer material, making a filler, welding it in, sealing properly, etc....)

Good news is no issues with wheel stud, hub to flange bolt or ABS sensor alignment and no added weight or cost except some welding gas and wire and a bit of electrical power.

Two methods remain, one is to use shims but you would have to have shims on both sides of the flange to prevent misaligned and stressed bolts that could fail, the shims have to be made to very high standards, very thin as to not push the wheels out if running +35 or +36mm, etc....even with +45mm which will fit on the rear side easily one might still have to roll and pull the fenders.

The other is what I learned from Team O'Neil, they use the none ST rear axle, I believe it is -1.5 degrees so it might take a bit more effort to setup +35 but less for +45. The axle is not as stiff as the ST so a rear sway bar, torsion bar, etc might be needed.

I rebuilt, at great cost in time, a Ground Control rear race 5-way sway bar to fit the car, fabed up and welded mounts to the shock mount area, holes in the beam, etc....to test but found I do not need it but my car is not the same as any other so not applicable to others unless changing camber perhaps.

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Rear toe, I would loved to have adjustable toe to have been able to test it but just not a viable situation in this case so I picked the neutral ground of zero rear toe and happy with it.

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BACK ON TOPIC

I still feel the 16x8 or for those wanting wider a 16x9 will be out eventually, is a better alternative for a couple of reasons over a 17" wheel even if the weight is equal the 17" will still move more weight to the outer area of the rotational mass, tires are limited to both wheel sizes but in 17" most wider tires are just to tall.

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If this 16x8 deal does not work out the RPF1 in 16x8 will fit with a 4x100 conversion and looks great on the car.

One issue is the standard 12.19" WW BBK will not quite clear these particular wheels but there will be a 11.75" setup coming out that will or one can have new caliper mounts made to pull the calipers in probably 2-3 mm. This would keep the pads on the rotor surface area just fine, rotors clear the calipers, etc...and run 12.19" rotors but there is not a significant improvement in the diameter in overall braking ability. The GT Rotors in 11.75 has a much thermal mass as the none GT in 12.19" as well.

Edited: There is at least one company if not two working on a 12.19 rotor BBK to fit under the 15x8 6UL with a different caliper than the ones being sold now, I think that is going to be a tough one to make happen but one company has the info needed to do the 11.75" rotor setup as I have given them my data on it. It should be easy to make it fit under 16x8.

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All that said, I really hope the 16x8 6UL works out, overall it would be the best for most everyone

 

[M-Sport fan]

Never touched a fender, and that's on Cobb springs touched the 215/40 falkens sidewall on the lip of the fender liner autoxing only

Any wider a tire than this, and that 17x8 TD set up would be a total no go, correct (without MAJOR BFH work, cutting, spacers, and fender rolling)??

I LOVE the way that set up looks, but I know a 15x8 with 225s on them would be much better performance wise.

 

[LT Berzerker]

If I had coils and increased front camber, rolled, pulled, and raised the car 1/4 to 3/16" I could make a 225/45r17 fit (PSS, or Falken, not direzza runs way to wide). However, for performance....11th overall & 1st in tire limited ain't bad for springs & a stg 1 tune lol

Anyways, I'm still considering jumping on the gb, but ideally would eventually run a 15x9...pipedreams... Lol

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[M-Sport fan]

^^^NO, NOT too shabby AT ALL, but I'm guessing you would be 5-6 places higher up overall on that list with the 15x9s you want, and a stickier tire than the 615Ks.

Is your username what your troops call you, or am I interpreting that the wrong way? (My younger son is a Marine PFC.)

 

[LT Berzerker]

^^^NO, NOT too shabby AT ALL, but I'm guessing you would be 5-6 places higher up overall on that list with the 15x9s you want, and a stickier tire than the 615Ks.

Is your username what your troops call you, or am I interpreting that the wrong way? (My younger son is a Marine PFC.)

Was a 1lt, resigned my commission to spend more time with my son, start racing (autox & soon NASA TT), and couldn't deal with toxic leadership combined with a new generation of troops with entitlement issues... Now I help by working for the VA ... Note: fiesta is now listed in csp, not dsp - factor is much better for us

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[M-Sport fan]

Was a 1lt, resigned my commission to spend more time with my son, start racing (autox & soon NASA TT), and couldn't deal with toxic leadership combined with a new generation of troops with entitlement issues... Now I help by working for the VA ... Note: fiesta is now listed in csp, not dsp - factor is much better for us

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^^^Understood completely, and it goes without saying, but I will say it anyway, THANK YOU for your service to this country, AND it's citizens in uniform!

BTW; just how big can you go on the wheel/tire package for our cars and still be in Street Prepared, and NOT be bumped up to Prepared class (or do wheels/tires never make a difference)??

 

[LT Berzerker]

^^^Understood completely, and it goes without saying, but I will say it anyway, THANK YOU for your service to this country, AND it's citizens in uniform!

BTW; just how big can you go on the wheel/tire package for our cars and still be in Street Prepared, and NOT be bumped up to Prepared class (or do wheels/tires never make a difference)??

No limit...a lot of the miata guys run 8&9" width with 225 or greater tires...r-compound allowed...now, street touring (stx) is fwd 9" & 265 tires...

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[M-Sport fan]

The only thing I do not like about these wheels is the double valve deal.

I KNOW the benefits it provides, but I just can't get past the aesthetics.

 

[eleven]

The only thing I do not like about these wheels is the double valve deal.

I KNOW the benefits it provides, but I just can't get past the aesthetics.

Honestly, you never see it/realize it in passing.

 

[RAAMaudio]

I have them in black on black wheels, never even notice one let alone two of them.

If they were my race wheels the stems would be in a contrasting color like blue, red, etc......

The 949 stems are very well made and very reasonable in cost.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I have them in black on black wheels, never even notice one let alone two of them.

If they were my race wheels the stems would be in a contrasting color like blue, red, etc......

The 949 stems are very well made and very reasonable in cost.

So they're black anodized?

Knowing you, they MUST BE fairly light, while being very strong!