Differences between "bars"

[Original J-Pat]

As far as the rear trunk brace are the mishimoto and PM options the only two?

For the front tower strut is that also just mountune and PM?

Thanks in advance! I also know of the eibach kit but seems not many people use it for good reasons I'm assuming. If this info is posted somewhere a link would be much appreciated. (Don't want to beat a dead horse.) I searched for a while and most info seems to be a year old, so with products still coming out I would like to see where everyone stands which looked to be the PM route.

 

[frankiefiesta]

Look up tb motorsports for a more budget friendly option

 

[Original J-Pat]

Look up tb motorsports for a more budget friendly option

Will do.

 

[Manta Ray]

I think someone here also DIY his bars. in the end it's just a metal rod. you can decide which one is prettier and wallet friendly and go with it

 

[jeffreylyon]

FYI: as much as I like my PM 6-Point lower brace and torsion bar, I'm not crazy about the strut tower brace - the fit on the driver's side is a tad sketchy due to the added piece of sheet metal to which the remote brake fluid reservoir attaches.

 

[Original J-Pat]

I think someone here also DIY his bars. in the end it's just a metal rod. you can decide which one is prettier and wallet friendly and go with it

Yea I know who you are talking about can't remember his username. Maybe [MENTION=636]RAAMaudio[/MENTION]. I'm leaning towards mishimoto trunk brace and mountune strut tower brace.

 

[Original J-Pat]

FYI: as much as I like my PM 6-Point lower brace and torsion bar, I'm not crazy about the strut tower brace - the fit on the driver's side is a tad sketchy due to the added piece of sheet metal to which the remote brake fluid reservoir attaches.

I think that's exactly why I may buy the mountune strut tower brace.

 

[GateCityRadio]

I have all of the PM bars. They are all very good quality (great welds and paint) and easy to install. I didn't have a problem with the strut tower brace.

 

[gongos]

I have all of the PM bars. They are all very good quality (great welds and paint) and easy to install. I didn't have a problem with the strut tower brace.

Ditto. Strut bar was fine. You just need small hands.

 

[jeffreylyon]

I think the issue that I had is that the '16 FiST apparently has an additional piece of sheet metal spot welded to the top of the driver's side strut tower that interferes with the PM brace. I think that I'll fix that with a pair of channel locks, a grinding wheel and some white paint...

 

[2Cool]

I think the issue that I had is that the '16 FiST apparently has an additional piece of sheet metal spot welded to the top of the driver's side strut tower that interferes with the PM brace. I think that I'll fix that with a pair of channel locks, a grinding wheel and some white paint...

I didn't have that issue with my '16, it bolted right up.

 

[jeffreylyon]

I didn't have that issue with my '16, it bolted right up.

Can you post a quick picture? I can't figure out why I'm having so much trouble!!

 

[Hellboy's_Fist]

Not sure the car needs a front strut tower brace at all, these things are buried against the firewall anyway. I think the front lower, and rear twist beam brace would give you the most bang for your buck by far.

Mine is a DD street build so I'm going to do the front 4 point, rear beam brace, and the rear "booty brace". I did the front brace on other cars and felt nothing but, the rears and front lowers always seemed to
make the car much more planted against uneven roads.

 

[RAAMaudio]

I believe money is better spent on the lightest wheels and stickiest tires you can buy in 15 or 16" and properly support the width of tire, better dampers or the right coilovers, two point easy to make front brace, and go drive the car at autocross and HPDE events as often as you can go.

Beyond that up I would look into suspension bushings, adjustable sway bar links, etc....

Be careful about adding to much front camber as it can acerbate the already sometimes twitchy rear of the car.

Notice, none of my recommendations are going to add weight or very little and the wheels and tires are going to save a bunch in the most important place possible.

 

[jeffreylyon]

[MENTION=4757]Hellboy's_Fist[/MENTION] - you make a great point about the strut tower bar. I'm pretty sure that I'm going to have to pull mine off when I install the Mishimoto induction hose and it might stay off. Regarding the lower brace - my vote is for the 2-point or the 6-point. I don't think that the 4 give you anything over the 2. I love my 6-point.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Take off the plastic cowl pieces and take a good look at the factory STB, it is hugely stiffer than any aftermarket bar, there would be little gain in adding one with the possible exception of a highly modded for all out grip car with very wide sticky tires, like mine has been done yet I do not run an STB and I have had plenty of them on other cars up to full triangulated, gusseted full race car cage projects I have designed and built.

Unless you have an issue like a couple of members have posted about their subframe slipping around, which should be able to be cured with properly torqued mounting bolts then a 6 point is likely not needed as well, again, I do not run one and my subframe has not moved even jumping over curbs on the track on 225 race slicks.

 

[Original J-Pat]

Take off the plastic cowl pieces and take a good look at the factory STB, it is hugely stiffer than any aftermarket bar, there would be little gain in adding one with the possible exception of a highly modded for all out grip car with very wide sticky tires, like mine has been done yet I do not run an STB and I have had plenty of them on other cars up to full triangulated, gusseted full race car cage projects I have designed and built.

Unless you have an issue like a couple of members have posted about their subframe slipping around, which should be able to be cured with properly torqued mounting bolts then a 6 point is likely not needed as well, again, I do not run one and my subframe has not moved even jumping over curbs on the track on 225 race slicks.

Which dampers do you recommend? I'm pretty set on the mountune springs as it seems they have the best feedback from everyone.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Take off the plastic cowl pieces and take a good look at the factory STB, it is hugely stiffer than any aftermarket bar, there would be little gain in adding one with the possible exception of a highly modded for all out grip car with very wide sticky tires, like mine has been done yet I do not run an STB and I have had plenty of them on other cars up to full triangulated, gusseted full race car cage projects I have designed and built.

Unless you have an issue like a couple of members have posted about their subframe slipping around, which should be able to be cured with properly torqued mounting bolts then a 6 point is likely not needed as well, again, I do not run one and my subframe has not moved even jumping over curbs on the track on 225 race slicks.

A real, fully tied into the unibody/subframe cage is about the only thing that is worth the weight penalty it costs, whether that is because it is required by rules or run groups, a secure feeling of safety, or wanting the ultimate rigidity from the unibody.

 

[Zormecteon]

I have the Mishmoto trunk brace installed and the mountune front tower brace going in next week.