Up for my first oil change should I take it to the dealer or do it myself ?

[jahaziel]

Should I take it to a ford dealer or do it myself ? And any recommended oil and filter ?

 

[BobMaxed]

I just did my first ST oil change this weekend. The hardest part is that its a bit difficult if you don't raise it up. I have ramps. I've heard that often the filter on cars fresh from the factory are very tight. My car was used and had one oil change so that wasn't an issue. The drain plug is 13MM. If you regularly do your own oil changes the oil change on the ST will be easy.

 

[Joker328]

My most recent experience for your reference: http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/...-on-a-stock-2016-Focus-RS?p=165864#post165864

To add to that, they also did not top off my coolant.

 

[Intuit]

First oil change last week Saturday. Factory installed filter is indeed too tight to take off by hand.

I avoid using ramps because in a manual shift especially, it's too easy to drive off the end of them.

For comparison...

On a scale of 1-10 my old vehicle was a 8 on the oil change.
+ Can easily R&R the filter from the top.
+ Could remove and replace the drain pan bolt without getting underneath the vehicle. (just a reach with left arm)
+ Solid framing for jacking was easy to get to.
- Needed a low-profile oil pan (or street curb) if wanted to avoid using a jack.
+ Easy refill port without using funnel
+ Easy too check level
+ Overfill by 1qt inconsequential (did that once as used a 5qt bottle thinking it was a 4qt)



Fiesta by comparison...
There is barely enough room to get a strap wrench in there.
Had to use a really tiny floor jack to get to the front subframe and get enough clearance for my oil drain container.
A low-profile oil pan not likely to fit under it without a jack. (uncomfirmed)
Have get head under vehicle to reach drain pan bolt as it is in the center of the pan.

I shouldn't have to use a strap wrench with the next oil change. So if not for the placement of the drain pan bolt, it being too low for a low-profile drain pan, and having a tougher time jacking it up from a solid frame point, it would be as easy as the old vehicle.

 

[Manta Ray]

spend a few dollars for oil filter wrench... (I never owned one until this car and I worked as a tech for a while now)...

i change my oil when its burning hot so the wrench can be useful to undo the filter without touching anything hot at all. i did 2 oil changes already on ramps.

 

[JTP]

Just do it yourself it will be one of the easiest oil changes you ever do. Go to Walmart and snag a bottle of Motorcraft 5w-20 and a filter for 20 bucks.

 

[miguel.in.az]

As others have said that factory filter is a PITA to remove, you'll need a strap wrench or filter pliers to get it off.

You could ask 100 people about oil and get 100 different answers. My advice is as long as its the correct viscosity and has the right API rating for the FiST run whatever you think would be appropraite.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

If you have a deal for oil changes through the dealer....just have them do it.....I would....I'm getting to old and work way to much to change the oil. My time is spent driving the Fist and sleeping.

 

[Spaceman_Spiff]

I did my first oil change at 700 miles, getting ready to do the next at 6k. I plan to have the dealer do the 10k service, etc., in case I need the carfax report to help with price later down the road. (Also because I have the extended warranty). In the end, it's up to you. If you like to get your hands dirty and don't need a paper trail, go for it.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

 

[Quisp]

Get a filter socket . There's no room for hands or strap wrenches.

 

[LilPartyBox]

Do it yourself. Dealers are a gamble...

Link to a how-to

https://howtune.com/articles/180-change-the-oil-on-a-2014-ford-fiesta-st


I'll be buying one of these soon. Guys are afraid of leaks but i've searched tons of forums and people running them for 10s of thousands of miles without issue.
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/fumoto-valve-drain-kit-f106s-with-plug-size-14mm-1-5.html

 

[McSwine]

I usually let the dealer do the first oil change since in my experience, the filter is stuck on there so hard you need a couple of gorillas and a 10' cheater bar to get it off.

 

[richtor]

In ca it's tough to get rid of the oil. I have a local trusted shop do it for 20 cash. Saves time and headache of finding someplace to recycle oil.

I changed my oil out at 2k to conventional oil. Then at 6k I went full synthetic Redline 5/20, I like motul and amsoil too.

 

[Ronbo]

In ca it's tough to get rid of the oil.

Any local Pep Boys will take your used motor oil.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[M-Sport fan]

Get a filter socket . There's no room for hands or strap wrenches.

Do these work on the factory and Motorcraft filters??

The bottom of the filter can CANNOT be smooth, and not 'fluted'/scalloped for these to work (i.e.; Fram Ultras will work with them, Amsoil EaOs will NOT).

 

[M-Sport fan]

Do it yourself. Dealers are a gamble...

Link to a how-to

https://howtune.com/articles/180-change-the-oil-on-a-2014-ford-fiesta-st


I'll be buying one of these soon. Guys are afraid of leaks but i've searched tons of forums and people running them for 10s of thousands of miles without issue.
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/fumoto-valve-drain-kit-f106s-with-plug-size-14mm-1-5.html

I was always paranoid about those NOT because of fear of leaking, or even of them breaking off, but because it makes it VERY easy for ANYONE who has a grudge against you, or who wants to 'ruin your day' for ANY reason to sabotage your pride and joy.

Of course, they first must know you have one installed, or crawl under the car to know this in the first place.

 

[LilPartyBox]

That's some serious paranoia. Crazy girlfriends much? Lol

 

[M-Sport fan]

That's some serious paranoia. Crazy girlfriends much? Lol

Nope, just some bad experiences with a VERY crazy/criminal brother who does know I do my own oil changes.

 

[M-Sport fan]

In ca it's tough to get rid of the oil. I have a local trusted shop do it for 20 cash. Saves time and headache of finding someplace to recycle oil.

I changed my oil out at 2k to conventional oil. Then at 6k I went full synthetic Redline 5/20, I like motul and amsoil too.

I am also tempted to use those non-certified, high end 'boutique' oils in this car after initial break-in, warranty be damned, but, I would do a little more research on the fact that direct injected engines, ESPECIALLY boosted ones, do NOT 'like' high calcium and high SAPS oils, which includes all of the above.

I will probably do the first change at ~1500 miles, using Wal Mart bought Motorcraft blend, and a Motorcraft filter, and then at 5K miles change over to either; Motorcraft FULL synthetic (IF I can find it for less than ~$8.00/qt.), or Castrol or Mobil 1 EP full synthetics to retain the engine warranty (at least until I do MAJOR mods/turbo upgrades) with a Fram ULTRA filter. (YES, I have been spending WAY TOO MUCH time over on bobistheoilguy.com!!)

Or, IF I discover that the Motul 300V, or Red Line I WANT TO USE are completely harmless, and will NOT cause intake valve problems on a DI engine, I will enthusiastically use those premium brews.

 

[richtor]

I'm not sure why it would void engine warranty. Good thread from SVTPerformance: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1069354-What-s-the-deal-with-Red-Line-Oil

Those that speak seem very knowledgable with UOA results to back up there conclusions.