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What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?
Thanks, Link for the strut brace, these guys have great customer service.
https://j-w-racing.co.uk/section.php/3794/1/s_u_mm_i_t
https://j-w-racing.co.uk/section.php/3794/1/s_u_mm_i_t
I went to go to work and the second section of my cp-e exhaust came undone! Got louder and vibration went through the car. Turned around got in the drive way looked at the exhaust, saw the problem. Jacked it up. Put it back together and I was off in 10 min. That's what I did haha.
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
FINALLY caught a break with the weather yesterday, and was able to power spray the underside, and wheel wells, to wash off the 'salt undercoating', and wash the car and get a coat of Collinite 845 (on top of the Wolfgang 3.0 Sealant already on there) on it before the temps plummet once again. ![[:)]](/images/smilies/smile.png "Smile [:)]")
Also put my MS-RT World Champions sticker (sent to me as part of their supporter/membership package) on the inside of my upper passenger side rear window.![[raceflag]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_race.gif "Race Flag [raceflag]")
Also put my MS-RT World Champions sticker (sent to me as part of their supporter/membership package) on the inside of my upper passenger side rear window.
On Sunday, I started with a symposer delete (whoosh) and then a short-shift adapter (fswerks).
I decided to start with the symposer delete since I figured it would give me a little more space for everything. I spent about 20 minutes trying to get the damn clamp off of the hose. Didn't work with any of my existing tools, so ran out to Lowes to get one of these https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-VISE-GRIP-Bent-Compound-Long-Reach-Pliers/1000084161. Even with that, took a bit of effort. But finally got the symposer off.
Immediately moved onto the short shift adapter. This was much easier. I also have the bushings that go on the shift plate, but just didn't feel like I had the time to take out the battery and battery box in order to get to the plate. That is saved for another day.
Main learning point for me was that damn, there is not much space for hands/tools in that engine bay. I mean, I can look at it and tell things are tight. But until you actually attempt to do something, you just can't appreciate how difficult simple things can be. Impressions on the mods - I like the sound of the car more now that the symposer is gone. It seems that it really only added the obnoxious farting noises at lower RPMs. The car still makes some decent noise up high, so I am quite happy with that. The short shift adapter (set to 25% reduction) is also a must-have in my opinion. I mean, the throws aren't long in a stock FiST. But it really seems more locked in now. Love slamming through the gears.
On Monday I installed a new shift knob I purchased from a fellow forum member. It is a latheworks copolymer sphere and it is magnificent. Love the feel and weight.
Today, I installed an AWR RMM (bought from Whoosh). I purchase the 88a. Installation went fairly well. I had to really push on the engine to get some of the holes lined up and one of the bracket bolts seems to be cross-threaded or something. Everything else fit nicely and the mount looks good (I got the red). Initial impressions - WHAT HAVE I DONE? It felt like my FiST was going to shake itself to pieces. I heard new rattles all over the place. So I calmed myself down and went for a drive. Everything is louder (due to the increased vibrations). But yeah, slamming into second under hard acceleration is tiiieeeght. I drove all around for at least 30 minutes and either I just got used to it, or the mount did just enough breaking in to not completely rattle my teeth. It settled down at idle and really only shakes things under low RPM when just getting rolling in first. From what I have read, the mount could continue to break in for 500-1000 miles. I don't have a commute and my wife refuses to drive the car anyways, so no one will mind.
For anyone on the fence on an AWR mount and whether to go with a 70 or 88, you may want to go with the 70. Again, I don't have a commute and no one else drives my car, so I'm going to stick with the 88. But just know that it can be pretty damned harsh in the beginning. If you want a raw, connected to the car feeling, by all means go with the 88.
Next up will be a big mouth (on order from Whoosh) and an AP with stratified tune. This will be with a stock FMIC. I know, I know. But we don't have too much hot weather here in the mid-atlantic and I really don't do any long drives. If the heat soak becomes a problem, FMIC will be in the cards.
I decided to start with the symposer delete since I figured it would give me a little more space for everything. I spent about 20 minutes trying to get the damn clamp off of the hose. Didn't work with any of my existing tools, so ran out to Lowes to get one of these https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-VISE-GRIP-Bent-Compound-Long-Reach-Pliers/1000084161. Even with that, took a bit of effort. But finally got the symposer off.
Immediately moved onto the short shift adapter. This was much easier. I also have the bushings that go on the shift plate, but just didn't feel like I had the time to take out the battery and battery box in order to get to the plate. That is saved for another day.
Main learning point for me was that damn, there is not much space for hands/tools in that engine bay. I mean, I can look at it and tell things are tight. But until you actually attempt to do something, you just can't appreciate how difficult simple things can be. Impressions on the mods - I like the sound of the car more now that the symposer is gone. It seems that it really only added the obnoxious farting noises at lower RPMs. The car still makes some decent noise up high, so I am quite happy with that. The short shift adapter (set to 25% reduction) is also a must-have in my opinion. I mean, the throws aren't long in a stock FiST. But it really seems more locked in now. Love slamming through the gears.
On Monday I installed a new shift knob I purchased from a fellow forum member. It is a latheworks copolymer sphere and it is magnificent. Love the feel and weight.
Today, I installed an AWR RMM (bought from Whoosh). I purchase the 88a. Installation went fairly well. I had to really push on the engine to get some of the holes lined up and one of the bracket bolts seems to be cross-threaded or something. Everything else fit nicely and the mount looks good (I got the red). Initial impressions - WHAT HAVE I DONE? It felt like my FiST was going to shake itself to pieces. I heard new rattles all over the place. So I calmed myself down and went for a drive. Everything is louder (due to the increased vibrations). But yeah, slamming into second under hard acceleration is tiiieeeght. I drove all around for at least 30 minutes and either I just got used to it, or the mount did just enough breaking in to not completely rattle my teeth. It settled down at idle and really only shakes things under low RPM when just getting rolling in first. From what I have read, the mount could continue to break in for 500-1000 miles. I don't have a commute and my wife refuses to drive the car anyways, so no one will mind.
For anyone on the fence on an AWR mount and whether to go with a 70 or 88, you may want to go with the 70. Again, I don't have a commute and no one else drives my car, so I'm going to stick with the 88. But just know that it can be pretty damned harsh in the beginning. If you want a raw, connected to the car feeling, by all means go with the 88.
Next up will be a big mouth (on order from Whoosh) and an AP with stratified tune. This will be with a stock FMIC. I know, I know. But we don't have too much hot weather here in the mid-atlantic and I really don't do any long drives. If the heat soak becomes a problem, FMIC will be in the cards.
^^^A tip for when you get around to doing the underhood shift cable plate bushings; use something tacky to hold them into the plate when installing them, as I did not, and it took me at least 4x as long to do this mod as it took others who DID use silicone RTV or such to hold them into the plate.
I also did not disconnect the cable from the plate, so that probably contributed to the futility of trying to keep the bushings in place during the installation.
(They kept dropping out before I could get the bolts into the threads, and getting lost around the top of the RMM area, necessitating a jacking up of the car each of the MANY times this happened in order to 'search out', and retrieve them!![[mad]](/images/smilies/mad.png "Mad [mad]")
)
I hear ya on the impossibility of the under hood access on this car!
The only thing harder for me was trying to change the plugs 'blind' (by feel ONLY) on my LS1 Z28 (at least THAT job will take 1/50th the time and effort on this car!).
I also did not disconnect the cable from the plate, so that probably contributed to the futility of trying to keep the bushings in place during the installation.
(They kept dropping out before I could get the bolts into the threads, and getting lost around the top of the RMM area, necessitating a jacking up of the car each of the MANY times this happened in order to 'search out', and retrieve them!
)I hear ya on the impossibility of the under hood access on this car!
The only thing harder for me was trying to change the plugs 'blind' (by feel ONLY) on my LS1 Z28 (at least THAT job will take 1/50th the time and effort on this car!
).
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