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Blow Off Valve how to

masonsturbos

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Location
saint louis
#1

Do you guys have your favorite blowoff valve? Have one sitting on the shelf but haven't installed on because you're not big turbo or have upgraded charge pipes? Well here's my easy solution to all of that.
1: pick your BOV- I choose a Knockoff Tial BOV for $45 on eBay with a 10psi Spring
2: gather these parts- BOV, 1.5"-2" pipe-I used a pvc adapter-, 4" of 2" tubing- I used mine from the pipe on the end of the resonator on the charge pipe from the turbo-, 1.5" hose clamp, 2-2" hose clamps, vacuum line, 1 zip tie- long enough for your mounting-, *if you have a Boomba throttle body spacer, get a 1/8 npt to 1/4 nipple, or get a vacuum source plate http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...tp&Product_Code=ATP-FIE-005&Category_Code=FIE from atp*
3: remove your sound symposer and/or your delete kit
4: leave the 1.5" pipe from the charge pipe and add your 1.5-2 adapter to the 1.5" tube
5: get your BOV- mine had a weld-on piece with a VBand that I got in the 2" pipe and put a 1 of your 2" hose clamps on then assembled the vband to the BOV

6: attach the 2" piping to the 2" side of your adapter

7: keep hose clamps loose and use the bends in the factory symposer piping to adjust the mounting location.




8: remove the plug in your Boomba throttle body spacer and install the nipple- or add your vacuum block

9: route your vacuum hose from your vacuum source to your BOV

10: jack the passenger side of the car high enough to crawl under, place a jack under the car and make sure the ebrake is on and the car is in gear.
11: crawl under and search for the factory recirculating valve and the plug that goes to it- grey plug-

12: lower car and then wrap a zip tie around the mounting of the BOV and wrap it around a wire bundle with a mount on the manifold

Now if you have a tuner- ask them to disable P0035- it's a recirc code for not being plugged in, if you aren't tuned, no worries either. Ran mine for a day without any problems before my tuner could get me that tune revision.


And there you go. Things you'll notice, my boost curve was smoother on Vdyno- how accurate that really is you tell me but the curve was smoother. Recirc noise at part throttle is gone!! You'll still hear intake noise, but the constant whirling is gone and so much better to listen to. Now my knock off tial doesn't produce the greatest sound, it holds 26.51psi and works the way it should. Good luck and videos will be posted shortly.
 


OP
masonsturbos

masonsturbos

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Location
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Thread Starter #4
Little add on- the "10psi" spring with the knock off was by no means right, put the light spring that it came with, and while the valve is open at idle, my tuner and the car agree that it won't cause any harm. Now the valve is articulating properly and is not even close to being as loud as it was
 


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Location
Gainesville
#5
I like this except for losing the sound symposer, I'm a fan of it personally.

I have tossed around the idea of relocating the recirc valve to some location after the intercooler, which is essentially what you did. I just like it when someone else does it first so I have a guide to work from.

This was a popular mod with the B5 1.8T crowd, the belief was that since the recirc valve is now after the intercooler, it should stay pressurized between shifts and boost should come back on quicker. The butt dyno agreed but it could have been in my head.

Just a warning, after some time it's very likely those plastic PVC adapters will melt and warp. I used a PVC T pipe and barbed coupler, both of which warped over time and wouldn't hold boost at all. Luckily metal versions are available.
 


OP
masonsturbos

masonsturbos

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Location
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Thread Starter #6
I used pvc as it is rated to crazy pressures this part won't see, and the heat is not crazy. The heat is at most 130* flowing to it and that's sitting idle for long periods of time, I see no problems right now yet I do plan on getting a metal one
 


Messages
346
Likes
61
Location
Gainesville
#7
I used pvc as it is rated to crazy pressures this part won't see, and the heat is not crazy. The heat is at most 130* flowing to it and that's sitting idle for long periods of time, I see no problems right now yet I do plan on getting a metal one
It won't melt right away, I think it took 3-4 years for mine to finally give out.
 


OffTheWall503

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Memphis, TN
#8
Does it make any difference if the stock diverter valve is still in the turbo? You just simply need to unplug the connector going to it and it de-activates it? [MENTION=1579]masonsturbos[/MENTION]
 


OffTheWall503

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Location
Memphis, TN
#10
I used this guide to help when installing an external blow off valve off an ATP charge pipe, but am finding the routing and location of the blow off valve less than ideal. I will be installing a new BOV into the symposer hose like you did, using this Turbosmart blow off valve which also uses a 38mm flange so no hose adapters needed.

https://www.amazon.com/Turbosmart-TS-0205-1131-Black-Blow-off-Valve/dp/B005ZXKYQ2/
 




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