This car has as stiff bushings with short sidewall tires and is a hatch so it will be tough to make it real quiet but some work is indeed worth doing.
If not done so read the HOW TO Guide and Vehicle Fitment guide on raamaudio dot com as that is based on nearly 20 years and tens of thousands of installs from the most basic to world championships being won and will give the best overall results the closer followed. This is not an ad, this is to help you do the best for the least time and cost, use whatever you wish but their is no other guides like the ones I posted as most selling deadening do not even know how to use it right, just sell all the can.
Mat, any good brand and use sparingly, more is not often better unless building an all out higher end audio system, competition, etc....
Foam, Ensolite is the only game in town, peal and stick takes 1/4th the effort, cost about the same as adhesive not needed.
Acoustical foam, Ebay is best bet these days, it is gray, looks like egg crate, can be found in larger sheets for low price.
This particular car need work in the hatch area the most, qtr panels are small and hard to get to, I mostly used 2" thick acoustical foam that is cheap to get now on Ebay, do allow for air flow so the vents work properly but make the air pass over and around the foam before exiting the car.
Just enough mat to seal up some areas, lots of ensolite foam as it costs less and weight is super low for most of the work.
Seal up under the hatch trim, add a bit of mat to it, cover the holes in the hatch with mat and then foam.
Tire well, a bit of mat, then line with the foam.
rear floor, a little mat, tap and listen/feel, as per the guide, then all with the foam.
Doors are a bit tough to get into, just mat and foam behind the speakers, some mat on the plastic cover over the big door access hole, foam over it all.
Door panels, a bit of mat on any resonate prone area, foam over that and a bit more of the panels.
Kick panels, seal holes up with mat and foam.
Under dash, a bit of mat on any resonate areas, foam on all you can get it on, stuff some acoustical foam inside the dash but leave room for air flow, especially around the intake and outlets of the HVAC system.
Laying a sheet of the acoustical foam under the seats can help quite a bit.
---------------
The above gives the best results for time and not a great deal of cost or added weight.
For the next level up doing the floor is best.
Floor, a bit of mat on any resonate areas, foam on the rest of it, if any really soft, flexible, boomy areas then mat, foam, mat foam on those specifically.
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Roof, nearly always the least gain and the most work, adding weight up high is not something I prefer to do so I if doing one on a performance car I usually line the roof and back of headliner if not factory covered with felt or foam.
If I add mat it is only in the middle of larger resonate prone areas on the roof the cover all with the foam.
(if a high db sub install is planned I add a layer of mat to the whole roof then add a second layer coveringn half of more in the middle of the larger areas then add the foam and if room add a layer of acoustical foam as well)
---------------
I could say hope this helps but that is not true, I know it will help so I will say follow this advice if you want the best results for the time and money you put into it at the level you wish to acheive
Most sincerely,
Rick
If not done so read the HOW TO Guide and Vehicle Fitment guide on raamaudio dot com as that is based on nearly 20 years and tens of thousands of installs from the most basic to world championships being won and will give the best overall results the closer followed. This is not an ad, this is to help you do the best for the least time and cost, use whatever you wish but their is no other guides like the ones I posted as most selling deadening do not even know how to use it right, just sell all the can.
Mat, any good brand and use sparingly, more is not often better unless building an all out higher end audio system, competition, etc....
Foam, Ensolite is the only game in town, peal and stick takes 1/4th the effort, cost about the same as adhesive not needed.
Acoustical foam, Ebay is best bet these days, it is gray, looks like egg crate, can be found in larger sheets for low price.
This particular car need work in the hatch area the most, qtr panels are small and hard to get to, I mostly used 2" thick acoustical foam that is cheap to get now on Ebay, do allow for air flow so the vents work properly but make the air pass over and around the foam before exiting the car.
Just enough mat to seal up some areas, lots of ensolite foam as it costs less and weight is super low for most of the work.
Seal up under the hatch trim, add a bit of mat to it, cover the holes in the hatch with mat and then foam.
Tire well, a bit of mat, then line with the foam.
rear floor, a little mat, tap and listen/feel, as per the guide, then all with the foam.
Doors are a bit tough to get into, just mat and foam behind the speakers, some mat on the plastic cover over the big door access hole, foam over it all.
Door panels, a bit of mat on any resonate prone area, foam over that and a bit more of the panels.
Kick panels, seal holes up with mat and foam.
Under dash, a bit of mat on any resonate areas, foam on all you can get it on, stuff some acoustical foam inside the dash but leave room for air flow, especially around the intake and outlets of the HVAC system.
Laying a sheet of the acoustical foam under the seats can help quite a bit.
---------------
The above gives the best results for time and not a great deal of cost or added weight.
For the next level up doing the floor is best.
Floor, a bit of mat on any resonate areas, foam on the rest of it, if any really soft, flexible, boomy areas then mat, foam, mat foam on those specifically.
----------
Roof, nearly always the least gain and the most work, adding weight up high is not something I prefer to do so I if doing one on a performance car I usually line the roof and back of headliner if not factory covered with felt or foam.
If I add mat it is only in the middle of larger resonate prone areas on the roof the cover all with the foam.
(if a high db sub install is planned I add a layer of mat to the whole roof then add a second layer coveringn half of more in the middle of the larger areas then add the foam and if room add a layer of acoustical foam as well)
---------------
I could say hope this helps but that is not true, I know it will help so I will say follow this advice if you want the best results for the time and money you put into it at the level you wish to acheive
Most sincerely,
Rick
![[limphand]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_limphand.gif "Limp Hand [limphand]"){kind=icon}
simply because its a much quieter chill experience. Im old I guess (29 lol). I love my FiST driving around town and windows down sunroof open ripping around doing errands or visiting friends or back and forth locally to work. But even a jump to the next town to the mall (~20 mins) I'd rather take her car now. ![[driving]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_driving.gif "Driving [driving]"){kind=icon}
