INSTALLED - Meister R Coilovers/ Impressions, Pics, Etc.

[airjor13]

Mine does the same occasionally. But so did the Konis. And so did the oem. So I figured it was econobox-life. Maybe not?

Yep definitely not biggie! I am going to spray some grease or WD40 when I get under the car one day. Shout out to Jerrick for PM'ing me instantly asking if I had any concerns! Just wanted to throw it out there that some noise occasionally is pretty much normal.

 

[MeisterR]

Been a while now, any more new feedback after some miles been put on the car?

Jerrick

 

[Rhinopolis]

Been a while now, any more new feedback after some miles been put on the car?

Jerrick

I'll chime in and I've had these coilovers on my car since May. No regrets, the car is very flat in the corners, feels very stable and well planted, and the ride is nice.

I took a friend who has a 2010 Audi S4 for a ride the other day (his 1st time riding in my car), and we hit a 20 mph left hand switchback at speed with his exact words being, "Whoa.......... I wasn't expecting that at all". Kinda made my day...lol. He talked the rest of the day about my car being on rails

 

[MeisterR]

Good to hear that you are enjoying the coilovers.
Got to love a small nimble car on good suspension, the way they turn in is something that larger cars just cannot replicate.

Our stock of the ZetaCRD coilovers just arrived also, so we should be seeing a few more review from forums members shortly.

Jerrick

 

[D-resonant]

Installed the MeisterR CRD+ in back in May. Lovely (yes, I said it) in appearance and in performance. Previously spirited weekend canyon drives before with the factory suspension, now, must be reined back to keep from being stupid-fast.

Here are a few tips for those waiting to get and install theirs. (If you are still on the fence, don?t be. Get it! Nab one from Jerrick before he sells out his current batch again?)

The camber plates set at zero and using the outside upper slotted knuckle position gave me near factory -1.4 degree camber. Zero camber plate and inner slot position, -2.3. I initially ran -1.4 but switched to -2.3. Which should you choose? Decide for yourself if you want better traction accelerating/breaking, or do you want better traction turning. (For me, Mr. non-race-driver, the turn-in with -2.3 is shockingly telepathic.). I calculated an additional -.2 degree available using the camber plates, but did not test that?yet.

With the slight lowering (3/4? front, ?? rear), corner balanced, and the 5k/3k spring and shock MiesterR setup, I noticed slight understeer. Expect to add more roll resistance in the rear if you like your FiST to rotate. I added a Hotchkis rear roll bar and rear 15mm H&R hub spacers to correct this.

Make sure you set near ZERO front toe. Excessive toe will make my FiST pull during breaking on uneven surface.

I?m running a front lower 2-point brace, upper strut brace, and trunk brace. Tested the -2.3 front camber with, and without the upper strut brace. Yes upper strut brace is perceptible. Better suspension ?fidelity? with upper strut brace! (Unable to save 3.8 lbs )

Have clickers set at 9-out front, 10-out rear. Vary front between 9-out and 10-out. A tad too much high-speed compression at 9-out in certain section of the canyon, and need tad more rebound at 10-out in another section of the canyon.

Overall, pretty awesome really for the $$$. Thank you Jerrick!

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^You had it fully corner-weighted, and adjusted accordingly?

 

[D-resonant]

^^^You had it fully corner-weighted, and adjusted accordingly?

Post #32 method.
Currently: LF 836, RF 807, LR 563, RR 546.

 

[parapraxis24]

Installed these today, and the install is fairly simple except the driver's side shock mount is a bit tricky with the cowl and brake fluid reservoir in the way but we got it done.

I left the height set out of the box, and set the damping at -8 front and -10 rear from full stiff.

Everyone says that the car is on rails at these settings, but for me the back end kicked out much easier than OEM. It was more much easily controlled, but I was not expecting it to happen at such low speeds compared to the OEM setup, I was taking a roundabout in 2nd gear around 30mph and the back drifted out.

I do have the TB performance torsion bar, but I can't imagine that makes that much of a difference to have very different results than what I've read so far.

 

[LilPartyBox]

I've been on mine for about 4,500 miles and still lovin the ride and handling.

I have the PM torsion bar and 2pt, -8/-10 settings like you, and Cobb sways. I've never had the rear step out on me in the way you described. In fact, I'd have to go full hooligan to get the rear to step out. The car just eats corners and stays flat as a pancake with very predictable & mild oversteer. Does it do it to you every time? If not, it may have been some shit on the road or an elevation change in the pavement.

 

[parapraxis24]

I've been on mine for about 4,500 miles and still lovin the ride and handling.

I have the PM torsion bar and 2pt, -8/-10 settings like you, and Cobb sways. I've never had the rear step out on me in the way you described. In fact, I'd have to go full hooligan to get the rear to step out. The car just eats corners and stays flat as a pancake with very predictable & mild oversteer. Does it do it to you every time? If not, it may have been some shit on the road or an elevation change in the pavement.

I really only pushed it around the roundabout (Florida roads suck). I asked my friend, who was with me, and said he'd call it more "rotation" than full on stepping out.

It's really controllable, I wasn't expecting it though. It might not help that I have less than 1/8th of a tank of gas right now either.

 

[MeisterR]

If you feel the rear is stepping out on you too much, soften the rear damping.
By softening the rear, it will allow the rear tire to get a bit more traction.
This will help reduce the over steer feeling that you may have.

Another thing to check is tire pressure and alignment.
If the tire pressure is low, or the rear toe is pointing out, you may have the described feeling also.

Have a look can check things over.
The suspension works together with the tires and alignment, so every part do play a role in how the car behave.
The adjustment in the suspension just allow you to have control over what you like, but you have to make sure everything else is working together also.

Any questions, just let us know.
That is why we are here.

Jerrick

 

[parapraxis24]

If you feel the rear is stepping out on you too much, soften the rear damping.
By softening the rear, it will allow the rear tire to get a bit more traction.
This will help reduce the over steer feeling that you may have.

Another thing to check is tire pressure and alignment.
If the tire pressure is low, or the rear toe is pointing out, you may have the described feeling also.

Have a look can check things over.
The suspension works together with the tires and alignment, so every part do play a role in how the car behave.
The adjustment in the suspension just allow you to have control over what you like, but you have to make sure everything else is working together also.

Any questions, just let us know.
That is why we are here.

Jerrick

Thanks for the response. I'm going to let it settle in a bit, retighten everything, then get an alignment and post an update.

 

[MeisterR]

Thanks for the response. I'm going to let it settle in a bit, retighten everything, then get an alignment and post an update.

Just checking in to see if everything have went well.

Jerrick

 

[parapraxis24]

Haven't had a chance to check everything, but hopefully this weekend. I am getting a bit of clunking when going over speed bumps, but only at an angle. Thoughts?

 

[MeisterR]

Haven't had a chance to check everything, but hopefully this weekend. I am getting a bit of clunking when going over speed bumps, but only at an angle. Thoughts?

Check it over, if you get a clunk over speed bump (low speed), that normally mean there are play somewhere.
Be a bush, drop links, ball joint, etc.

Difficult to chase that as anything that move could make a noise, will really need it on a ramp to see.

Jerrick

 

[parapraxis24]

Check it over, if you get a clunk over speed bump (low speed), that normally mean there are play somewhere.
Be a bush, drop links, ball joint, etc.

Difficult to chase that as anything that move could make a noise, will really need it on a ramp to see.

Jerrick

I've never done suspension work so I'm not certain what the correct procedure is. But now that it's installed, would it make sense to loosen everything in the chance that it isn't seated correctly, and then retighten or should I just tighten everything where it is now?

 

[MeisterR]

I've never done suspension work so I'm not certain what the correct procedure is. But now that it's installed, would it make sense to loosen everything in the chance that it isn't seated correctly, and then retighten or should I just tighten everything where it is now?

One thing with suspension on car is "sometime" some car like to have things tighten at the static position.
What that mean is you tighten all the bush when the car is at static ride height (so you need a 4 post ramp).
Because if the wheel is in the air and the bolt was tighten then, the bush will be "pre-tension" once the car is on the ground as it is now sitting in a different position than when it was tighten.

I don't think it is bush tension, a clunk normally is more like anti-roll bar type of noise.
It might need some grease somewhere, a lot of different possibility.
Just double check everything first and go on from there, any questions just let me know.

Jerrick

 

[parapraxis24]

One thing with suspension on car is "sometime" some car like to have things tighten at the static position.
What that mean is you tighten all the bush when the car is at static ride height (so you need a 4 post ramp).
Because if the wheel is in the air and the bolt was tighten then, the bush will be "pre-tension" once the car is on the ground as it is now sitting in a different position than when it was tighten.

I don't think it is bush tension, a clunk normally is more like anti-roll bar type of noise.
It might need some grease somewhere, a lot of different possibility.
Just double check everything first and go on from there, any questions just let me know.

Jerrick

Yeah, downside to not having a proper ramp I suppose. I'm leaning towards it being the sway links, because it only happens when going over bumps at an angle, but straight on it's fine. Probably should have jacked up the steering knuckle closer to ride height rather than tightening them at full droop. I'm hoping that's what it is.

Thanks for your help so far, and I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

[LilPartyBox]

agreed. end links are the likely culprit. also, did you torque the top mounts with the car on the ground? I tightened them with wheels up and then another half turn or so when on the ground

mine only make noise over high frequency stuff, rare, or when I'm too fast over a speed bump.

 

[parapraxis24]

Well we stupidly did them wheels up, but it was making awful noises so we loosened them up rolled the car around a bit then retorqued them on the ground. Of course I haven't tightened those again since doing it so that might be contributing to the noises.