Has anyone installed a front sway bar in their driveway? Would you do it again or get it installed?

[MS67]

We just disconnected the 3 steering rack bolts from the subframe, and we re used the subframe bolts w blue loctite.

 

[D1JL]

I have had my front sway bar changed twice now.
Both times it was done on a lift.
Neither the down pipe or rack were unbolted or even loosened.
The two front sub frame bolts were loosened and the rear two sub frame bolts were removed.

Each time it cost me $100.00.



Dave

 

[martinw89]

I can definitely see how with a careful touch you could manage to swap the FSB without unbolting the rack, the downpipe-midpipe, or even removing the subframe. But for us we just wanted to minimize effort and getting the new sway bar in was really easy once everything was unbolted. We probably could have angled it just right to get it in with the subframe partially fastened down but I'm happy we went the easy route.


Earlier in the thread I said I was going to bring my camera and try to improve on the installation information available. I have totally failed the internet here because 1) I forgot my camera and 2) the super awesome and very skilled Matt (MS67) did most of the work for me. HUGE shoutout to Matt because I had a blast in his shop and his skill made this take about a 1/4 of the time it would have taken me alone in my driveway.

But here are some unorganized thoughts after swapping out the front bar:

• I started out the thread asking if it was possible to do this alone in your driveway. After helping Matt install the new bar using his lift, I would be hesitant to recommend a solo driveway install. I feel like this is a situation where if you have to ask then you're probably going to have a bad time. It's possible but make sure you have everything you need and you know what you're doing. And even if you know your way around a wrench, this is going to be a pretty unfun experience on jack stands.
• You need an E12 Torx socket. There is one E12 Torx bolt on each side of the subframe near the front and directly above the control arm. In fact you can reach the bolt through the arm with a long extension.
• If you're getting the Ford OEM base Fiesta bar (the best option IMO based on the info I could drum up), you need bushing and brackets. The bushings listed with the bar on Ford's part website don't include brackets, and their brackets are criminally overpriced. I got these and they worked out great: http://amzn.com/B000CNB46Y
• As I mentioned above, you can save yourself a ton of time and hassle by having a way to support a completely unbolted subframe. The bar is a weird shape and has limited clearance, so getting it out is difficult, and getting the new one in is a total pain. That is unless you lower the subframe a couple inches, in which case it glides in and out.

This is the best installation info I found before completing the installation:
https://cobbtuning.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/202951760-Tutorial-Fiesta-ST-Anti-Sway-Bar-Install
http://www.fiestast.net/threads/scca-autocross-results-thread.1030/page-12#post-38797

 

[D1JL]

Good write up.
I would still pay the $100.00 for someone else to do it.

BTW, as for the OEM non-ST bar, the bushing ARE different.
However, the OE brackets are the exact same part and number on both cars.
So you do NOT need to replace the brackets.

Also, Powerflex makes bushings in both sizes.

To confirm:
I am using the OE non-ST front sway bar with non-ST Powerflex bushings and the OE FiST brackets.




Dave

 

[martinw89]

I just enjoy being under my car, but otherwise I 100% agree. If you can get someone to install the front bar for $100 it's totally worth the money because it's not a quick & easy mod.

Dave, interesting you say that about the PowerFlex bushings in the OE ST brackets. I read that the OE non-ST bushing do not fit in the ST bracket. Specifically, Impalla SS AutocroSSer @ fiestast.net said he tried hard to cram the OE non-ST bushings into the OE ST bracket and he couldn't get them to fit. I also thought that sounded odd, and saw the bracket is the same part number in either ST or non-ST, but I bought a bushing & bracket set just in case. Good to hear some other folks can avoid my mistake and save a little cash by just buying Powerflex bushings.

I'm doing a Starting Line performance driving school on May 7th, and then our local SCCA region is having a HUGE autocross event at an absolutely monolithic parking lot behind the Daytona International Speedway back straight on May 8th. I'll post some autocross focused front sway bar impressions after that event.

 

[D1JL]

I do understand how you made your mistake.
You read the information on the internet so it must be true.

However, this now causes a conflict because I too have posted this on the internet.
The only thing I can say is that I have actually done it.

The bushings are the same size (outside) they just have different size holes in the center.



Dave

 

[Quisp]

What is the benefit of the standard Fiesta bar? Sorry if it's been gone over before.

 

[martinw89]

What is the benefit of the standard Fiesta bar? Sorry if it's been gone over before.

Compared to other front sway bars? It's not as stiff as the Eibach / Cobb bar, so it's a good mix of reducing body roll but still keeping front end grip and letting the rear get loose. Also, the Eibach / Cobb bar bangs against the subframe unless you install it juuuussst right. Also, it's about $80 brand new straight from Ford, or even cheaper if you choose used or go to a junk yard.

 

[Chuckable]

Also, the Eibach / Cobb bar bangs against the subframe unless you install it juuuussst right.

Now you've got me worried! I installed the Eibach front sway bar in my garage 2 weeks ago and have had no interference problems. It's a close fitment near where the bar curves to mate up with the endlink, but there's still about 1/2" or more of clearance, and plus the arc of the sway bar should keep it from any contact. Can you provide some additional information?

 

[D1JL]

[MENTION=1533]Chuckable[/MENTION], is your car lowered?



Dave

 

[Chuckable]

[MENTION=1533]Chuckable[/MENTION], is your car lowered?



Dave

It's on ST XTAs, but they are set at about their highest position.

 

[D1JL]

It's on ST XTAs, but they are set at about their highest position.

If lowered, you could run into problems.
The best correction would be to use adjustable end links.



Dave

 

[Chuckable]

I've had no problems so far, but will keep a look out. Thanks.

 

[Quisp]

Compared to other front sway bars? It's not as stiff as the Eibach / Cobb bar, so it's a good mix of reducing body roll but still keeping front end grip and letting the rear get loose. Also, the Eibach / Cobb bar bangs against the subframe unless you install it juuuussst right. Also, it's about $80 brand new straight from Ford, or even cheaper if you choose used or go to a junk yard.

So it doesn't have a front bar from the factory?

 

[martinw89]

So it doesn't have a front bar from the factory?

The ST has a solid 19 mm front bar. The non-ST Fiesta has a solid 22 mm front bar.

For the ST, Ford stiffened the rear twist beam and loosened the front sway bar to add the fun, balanced characteristic that the car is known for (as opposed to lots of understeer with the base Fiesta).

 

[mouse]

I went under the car this weekend to attempt the front sway bar on jack stands and I just don't feel comfortable lowering the sub-frame(out of fear of being crushed). I've done most of the other things on this car but this is the one thing I'd rather just pay someone else to do. Or if someone has access to a lift?
I have the Non-ST front sway and a 2-point pierce front chassis bar.

 

[LilPartyBox]

So it's been a few weeks. Any of you that have installed the front sway experiencing any front end knock or other noises? I'm debating whether I'll need to get adjustable end links dial out any preload as that could potentially cause groans and creaks over bumps.
[MENTION=2320]mouse[/MENTION] subframes are very light. No way you'll be crushed by it

 

[mouse]

So it's been a few weeks. Any of you that have installed the front sway experiencing any front end knock or other noises? I'm debating whether I'll need to get adjustable end links dial out any preload as that could potentially cause groans and creaks over bumps.
[MENTION=2320]mouse[/MENTION] subframes are very light. No way you'll be crushed by it

Dumb question... Does the sub-frame support anything above it? That's where my fear comes into play. If I don't take it out completely do I need to support it with something underneath it?
I've only installed sway bars on miatas and those are a piece of cake.

 

[LilPartyBox]

In my experience, subframes usually hold the steering rack, sway bar, control arms and rear motor mount. Nothing that will crush you. For this install i won't be dropping the sub completely. Just enough to replace the steering rack bushings and snake the sway bar in. I will also have a jack with a wood plank in place for supporting the engine since this will likely require removing the RMM.

Here's a shot of a subframe i pulled from a 2005 Jetta i was building. It weighed maybe 80 lbs or something. I imagine the sub on the FiST will be much lighter.

Just to give you some idea, here's a shot of my jack supporting the engine

 

[martinw89]

So it's been a few weeks. Any of you that have installed the front sway experiencing any front end knock or other noises? I'm debating whether I'll need to get adjustable end links dial out any preload as that could potentially cause groans and creaks over bumps.

At first I thought I was getting knocking from my new front sway bar, but then it became an intermittent noise, and now I don't hear it at all. So I can't be sure it was the sway bar. I installed Koni Yellows at the same time, and I noticed that one of the springs has worked its way off the rubber grommet on the spring perch. Maybe the noises were coming from when this was adjusting itself.

One way to avoid noises is to (using two people) pull the sway bar towards the rear of the car while tightening the bushings. This gets it in the position with the most clearance. I'm using the SE Fiesta sway bar which I heard had plenty of clearance, but in retrospect I wish I had used the little extra effort to make sure it had as much clearance as possible.

As an update, I'm LOVING the SE Fiesta front sway bar matched with Koni Yellows and no rear-end sway resistance changes. This car hooks up! You can induce rotation effortlessly and then keep a constant slip angle throughout the whole corner. Don't be worried that a slightly stiffer front sway bar will remove the rotation these cars are known to achieve.

In fact, I attended a Starting Line school recently, where the instructors are all previous SCCA Nationals champs and/or race car drivers. One of the instructors who drove my car said it was the best prepped HS Fiesta ST he's ever driven and offered to co-drive with me at nationals. So I 100% recommend the combo. I'm not the fastest guy around, so the pre-baked setup I put together from lots of forum searching is SE front sway bar, front Koni Yellow shocks at 1/2 turn from full-soft, rear Koni Yellow shocks at 1/2 turn from full stiff.