Spark Plug Install

[M-Sport fan]

High boost and ethanol are hard on plugs.

Also, at least one member on here (jeff, also on this thread) uses the Race Gas super high octane boosting additive in his fuel, in lieu of the ethanol which he cannot get in his area.

This stuff works great, and IS functional, but it does tend to quickly coat the plugs with brown tinged, yellow/orange deposits on both of the electrodes and insulator, so his tuner suggested he change them out every 4K-7K miles, or every oil change.

Some radical, or 'edgy' tunes for maxxed out hybrids, or BT kits, also tend to wear down the center electrode very quickly as well.

For a basically factory stock turbo, 'bolt-on' modded FiST, with just a flash, or even a 'safe' custom tune, the plugs should last at the very least 25K-30K miles, even with hard, or 'short trip' use.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Why would some of you change the plugs at 4k to 8k miles, or even at 10k miles? If it is because they are accessible and it makes you feel good to do it, I get it. But is there a reason having to do with necessity?

The only reason I am thinking about going for a 10K mile change interval is to preemptively prevent having the threads seize into the head (which is more likely to happen at higher mileage change intervals), which becomes a MUCH MUCH more expensive, and painful situation than paying $35.00 to $50.00 for premium plugs in that time frame.

Also, since our power trains are prone to LSPI events, it is VERY EASY to damage the plugs, especially if one is not always going WOT often during their driving time.
Of course we would know right away with crappy idle/running, and reduced power/elevated misfire counts if one or more plug(s) were severely damaged.

 

[M0LTEN]

Just changed my spark plugs for the first time. Mileage was 55k.
The days before changing them I noticed my idle stumbling at red lights and stop signs almost stalling out. Very similar to the
symptoms i get from fueling up. Acceleration seemed normal with no missing.

The new plugs from tune + fixed the stumbling and the car noticeably runs better all around.

Moral of the story is 50k is the max the plugs seem good for. I would go on to say I will not wait that long the next change out.

Total time to change the plugs out was 15 minutes. I did not encounter any problems with the spark plug socket I had.

 

[apex1]

I just changed my plugs out to one step colder NGKs at 5000 miles to better match my E30 tune. I will note that my 5/8 dedicated plug socket with rubber insert was too thick to reach down into the holes, so I started by using a deep wall socket without the rubber sleeve inside to hold the plugs, used a magnet to retrieve them once loose, used my socket with the sleeve to hold them and lower them in without dropping them and to start them, then finished with a standard deep wall socket. It helps to have an extension that will not allow the socket the pull free until you push the button or slide the sleeve.

I won't say where I bought my plugs but I will say that I paid a bit of a premium to have them "pre-gapped." More than one great vendor here offers that service, and it doesn't matter at all where I bought my plugs. All 4 of the plugs I bought easily allowed an .028 tool to pass, meaning that they all were gapped too large. My tuner, which is Stratified, recommends .026, while some other tuners say .027 or .028. My point is that you should still check the gap of your new plugs, even if you buy them pre-gapped. It only takes a minute.

 

[jtehh]

I just changed my plugs out to one step colder NGKs at 5000 miles to better match my E30 tune. I will note that my 5/8 dedicated plug socket with rubber insert was too thick to reach down into the holes, so I started by using a deep wall socket without the rubber sleeve inside to hold the plugs, used a magnet to retrieve them once loose, used my socket with the sleeve to hold them and lower them in without dropping them and to start them, then finished with a standard deep wall socket. It helps to have an extension that will not allow the socket the pull free until you push the button or slide the sleeve.

I won't say where I bought my plugs but I will say that I paid a bit of a premium to have them "pre-gapped." More than one great vendor here offers that service, and it doesn't matter at all where I bought my plugs. All 4 of the plugs I bought easily allowed an .028 tool to pass, meaning that they all were gapped too large. My tuner, which is Stratified, recommends .026, while some other tuners say .027 or .028. My point is that you should still check the gap of your new plugs, even if you buy them pre-gapped. It only takes a minute.

Ugh - I bought mine pre-gapped as well and didn't check them. Everything is running fine, but I'm getting misfires recorded by my AP. I never looked at misfires on my stock plugs, so not sure if it is just business as usual. It is very variable, but sometimes I'll get up to 8 in a 20 minute drive. I was about to throw my stock plugs back in to check. But I might just buy a gauge and check the new plugs. It wasn't the cost (gap guages cheap), but I didn't want to mess up the plug by trying to gap them myself. Thank you for the warning!

 

[VuDoo]

Ugh - I bought mine pre-gapped as well and didn't check them. Everything is running fine, but I'm getting misfires recorded by my AP. I never looked at misfires on my stock plugs, so not sure if it is just business as usual. It is very variable, but sometimes I'll get up to 8 in a 20 minute drive. I was about to throw my stock plugs back in to check. But I might just buy a gauge and check the new plugs. It wasn't the cost (gap guages cheap), but I didn't want to mess up the plug by trying to gap them myself. Thank you for the warning!

It is business as usual. It is when you get 20 misfires in a minute when you have to worry. I get about 25 misfires in a little over an hour.

 

[apex1]

Ugh - I bought mine pre-gapped as well and didn't check them. Everything is running fine, but I'm getting misfires recorded by my AP. I never looked at misfires on my stock plugs, so not sure if it is just business as usual. It is very variable, but sometimes I'll get up to 8 in a 20 minute drive. I was about to throw my stock plugs back in to check. But I might just buy a gauge and check the new plugs. It wasn't the cost (gap guages cheap), but I didn't want to mess up the plug by trying to gap them myself. Thank you for the warning!

All of mine were gapped too wide so the fix is just to tap them gently on a very solid surface and recheck after each small tap until the gap closes up to where you want it. You are not using a tool at all if tightening a gap (as long as you don't too far), and getting nowhere near the delicate tip on these plugs. I use a wire type gauge which I feel is very accurate. It either passes through the gap or it doesn't.

 

[M-Sport fan]

It helps to have an extension that will not allow the socket the pull free until you push the button or slide the sleeve.

You can also duct tape/self-stick silicone tape the socket to the extension, which is how I always changed the plugs on my A2 GTI 16V in the past.
I plan on doing this even with my push lock Craftsman extensions when I change them out on this car.

Does ANYONE market a very thin walled spark plug socket WITH the rubber plug holder inside?

 

[apex1]

Does ANYONE market a very thin walled spark plug socket WITH the rubber plug holder inside?

Yes. There is whole set of them on Amazon for less than $18. While the reviews are mostly positive, some negative reviews talked about the rubber insert staying on the plug. I have had spark plug sockets where this happened and after the glue inevitably fails when I try gluing it in place, the sockets take a flight to the trash can. I am not linking to the set on amazon because I hate cheap tools, but I'm sure you can find a quality thin wall plug socket.

 

[KnockOff]

I have a black husky set I have had for quiet some time. No issues with the spark plug socket. The extension will some times come out of the socket but rarely. Just wiggle wiggle wiggle lol.

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[jeff]

My regular spark plug socket wouldn't fit all the way in, I had to detach it and fit it partly in in order to be able to tighten the plugs in.
[MENTION=759]Hijinx[/MENTION] recommended a Craftsman socket which I ordered since, he said it worked perfectly in our cars no issues. I'll be trying it out when I change my plugs again this summer.

 

[VuDoo]

I have a duralast (AutoZone) 5/8 with an internal magnet that works well.

 

[neeqness]

Nice tips here.

After replacing spark plugs, has anyone noticed a loss of idle stutter after refueling? I have my plugs sitting in the box waiting to be installed...just need to set a time to do it. I already have a 5/8 socket and a magnet on an extension but I may need to verify that the extension will fit for my car.

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[M-Sport fan]

Nice tips here.

After replacing spark plugs, has anyone noticed a loss of idle stutter after refueling? I have my plugs sitting in the box waiting to be installed...just need to set a time to do it. I already have a 5/8 socket and a magnet on an extension but I may need to verify that the extension will fit for my car.

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I have NEVER ONCE noticed this stuttering/almost stalling everyone speaks of after a fuel fill up.

The ONLY time this car is ever even a little bit 'unsteady' for me (but not even hinting at an actual stall) is when it is stone cold, and I keep it in first gear getting out of my uphill street because I do not want to lug it in second, and chance incurring the much dreaded LSPI.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

First of all Plugs should never be put in with a spark plug socket...The socket is for removal and the tightening of the plugs after they have been threaded into their perspective little holes. Spark plugs should be attached to a piece of rubber hose & then lowered into the hole and the hose should be spun until the spark plugs find the threads to go into the head. This avoids the possibility of cross threading the plugs into the head by using a tool that gives you no feed back as the hose will just spin/pull right off the porcelain when the plugs start to enter the threads. Then once threaded the socket and extension should be used. Then following it up with a Torque wrench to correct specs if required. Then again WTF do I know after the numerous times ive to play cleanup from some rattlehead who used an air ratchet or ran it home using a tool and cross threaded it.

 

[KnockOff]

First of all Plugs should never be put in with a spark plug socket...The socket is for removal and the tightening of the plugs after they have been threaded into their perspective little holes. Spark plugs should be attached to a piece of rubber hose & then lowered into the hole and the hose should be spun until the spark plugs find the threads to go into the head. This avoids the possibility of cross threading the plugs into the head by using a tool that gives you no feed back as the hose will just spin/pull right off the porcelain when the plugs start to enter the threads. Then once threaded the socket and extension should be used. Then following it up with a Torque wrench to correct specs if required. Then again WTF do I know after the numerous times ive to play cleanup from some rattlehead who used an air ratchet or ran it home using a tool and cross threaded it.

I start em by hand with the extension and socket then use the ratchet after its finger tight.

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[neeqness]

I start em by hand with the extension and socket then use the ratchet after its finger tight.

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This is exactly what I have done in the past on previous vehicles. Haven't changed my plugs yet on this one.

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[neeqness]

{Deleted Post}

 

[neeqness]

I have NEVER ONCE noticed this stuttering/almost stalling everyone speaks of after a fuel fill up.

The ONLY time this car is ever even a little bit 'unsteady' for me (but not even hinting at an actual stall) is when it is stone cold, and I keep it in first gear getting out of my uphill street because I do not want to lug it in second, and chance incurring the much dreaded LSPI.

I didn't notice anything either until I hit about 50k or so...and then only when idling immediately after a fill up. The stutter dissipates after driving a few miles or so.

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[M0LTEN]

Nice tips here.

After replacing spark plugs, has anyone noticed a loss of idle stutter after refueling? I have my plugs sitting in the box waiting to be installed...just need to set a time to do it. I already have a 5/8 socket and a magnet on an extension but I may need to verify that the extension will fit for my car.

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Unfortunately the stuttering/stalling still occurs after a fill up. The only way for me to avoid the problem is to go inside the station buy a coffee,stand around for awhile
waiting to pay then leave. 5-10 minutes have gone by and then and only then do I not get the stuttering/stalling.

I used a spark plug socket from my craftsman set. I hand tighten them using just the extension and socket being careful not to cross thread then use the ratchet.