Have you thought about turning the rear damper upside down (For the love of everything... don't turn this into a semantics argument about the "I" word again)? Like the top mount screws into the damper body and the top of the shaft is attached to the "eye" near the hub? Much easier damper adjustments and a decent spring bag or heavy duty plastic and zip ties should keep the dirt out and away from the shaft.
I have thought about it, but application wise it could be a problem.
There are one of 2 way, either do a twin tube damper so you can adjust from the base valve, or you do an inverted damper.
Twin Tube damper basically will throw damping response out the window, so not a route i want to go down.
Also, it is very common for the totally expose adjustment dial to seize up or break off, so an issue I wouldn't want.
Inverted damper are limited by room, there aren't much there for me to work with.
You will have to dramatically reduce the piston size to get the damper to fit, so that is performance out the window too.
You have issue like outer ram drying up, and they will start making noise so no one wants that.
So I did think about it, but for the "hassle" of reaching in to adjust the damper.
It isn't worth the potential performance and durability loss from positing the adjustment dial at the bottom of the damper.
It is getting more common now that a lot of manufacturer is going for this "seal" suspension route.
The only other way is to get the damper adjustment on top, and drill a hole through the metal panel and feed an adjustment cable through.
I had a brain storm with a few members... carpet most people can deal with.
As soon as you mention drilling through metal on a new car, everyone backs off that idea.
So this design makes the best out of the chassis limitation that we have to work with.
Jerrick