2016 fiesta st overheating
- Thread starter duramaxin14
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Hey guys, wanted to post a quick update. I had my radiator replaced a few weeks ago after some overheating issues. The dealership called to follow up and the guy on the line let me know that since bringing mine in, they had 6 more with the same exact issue. He also mentioned that after following up with Ford on the new part number for the radiator, it's something Ford is now investigating and they are definitely aware that it's becoming a common problem.
So for any of you out there frustrated with overheating or worried about it, if you're under warranty have your dealerships service department look in to it. The more that this is reported and known at dealerships, the more likely they are to formally announce a recall and/or proactively do something about this.
So for any of you out there frustrated with overheating or worried about it, if you're under warranty have your dealerships service department look in to it. The more that this is reported and known at dealerships, the more likely they are to formally announce a recall and/or proactively do something about this.
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THANKS!! ![[thumb]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumb.gif "Thumbs Up [thumb]")
I may even hold off on installing my cp-e IC until after they issue a recall or such (and I get the replacement), since I lost the garage needed to be able to do this myself anyway. (LONG story!)
Hopefully, IF it becomes an official recall, it will be done on ALL of the possibly effected builds out there, and NOT just on the individual cars which have already shown/demonstrated actual overheating.
I may even hold off on installing my cp-e IC until after they issue a recall or such (and I get the replacement), since I lost the garage needed to be able to do this myself anyway. (LONG story!)
Hopefully, IF it becomes an official recall, it will be done on ALL of the possibly effected builds out there, and NOT just on the individual cars which have already shown/demonstrated actual overheating.
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- Member ID
- #1979
- Messages
- 776
- Likes
- 189
Okay... this isn't going to help that much because I didn't take a load of pictures, but here's my stab at helping you install the Mountune intercooler.
1. Watch Mishimoto's radiator install a few times to get familiar with the parts and hoses, etc. Drain radiator first with reservoir open and bottom radiator hose pulled.
2. If you aren't going to remove the bumper and install the Mountune the way they do the Mishimoto, then there's some equipment you need:
A. A jack that can do a 20 inch lift.
B. 2 jack stands and chocks for your rear wheels.
3. Regardless of your intent to replace stock radiator hoses, get some worm gear or T-bolt clamps to replace the stock spring clamps. The new radiator connectors have a lip that is VERY hard to wiggle the stock clamps over. If you attempt to do so, have some really high end 45-90 degree been long needle nose pliers or bent needle nose vice grips or you will be cursing yourself.
4. Aftermarket and stock cold side charge intercooler pipe must be removed. This is the pipe to the intercooler directly below the radiator.
5. Remove the air intake at least up to the piece running between the engine cover and the firewall. The air box absolutely must be removed.
6. Remove the lower and upper radiator hoses. Detach the vacuum connector from the engine block to the intake that's connected to the bottom middle of the engine block.
7. Detach the hood latch cable. Feed it out near the headlights away from the fan shroud.
8. Detach the plug from the fan controller. Get a trim popper (looks like the pry end of a hammer but smaller) and pop off all the tree clips securing the plug near the hood latch cable. Don't forget to remove that plug as well. You will probably break some clips. I broke a tab connected to the shroud over the fan guard.
9. Removing the headlights can help get you more room and an easier time seeing the layout. Made sure you pop the two tabs on the bumper cover and remove and keep the rubber tabs (shows in the Mishimoto guide). This exposes the pegs of the radiator on top that secure it to the car. You need to do this or you won't be able to separate the radiator from the condenser. All of this makes more sense if you watch the Mishimoto video.
10. Once everything is disconnected up top and front of the car is lifted at least 18 inches and secured with jack stands, disconnect the top and bottom tabs securing the fan shroud to the radiator. This can be removed from the top or bottom without too much difficulty as long as all the tree clips are popped and no cables are still connected. Once top tabs are disengaged, you should be able to lift it straight up. If you hit a snag, get under and release the bottom tabs.
11. Set the shroud aside and get under the car and disengage the clips of the radiator from the a/c condenser (looks like a skinny radiator, faces the front of the car) from the radiator. Jimmy the top portion away now and pull the radiator down through the bottom to get out. Don't manhandle the condenser because it's still connected to hard lines. Condenser stays in place. You only ever remove the old radiator and the shroud.
12. I highly suggest you buy a new bleed plug, which I took a picture of in this thread a few posts back. Put the rubber discs from the bottom of the old radiator and put those on the new. Install the new radiator from underneath the car. Before securing you need to ensure the claw from the condenser at the top interlocks with the top rim of the intercooler. Make sure to loosen the retention tabs top and bottom before attempting this step. This had to be one of the hardest parts because the top area is hard to get to interlock working from the bottom. It's easy to bend some fins.
13. Once the condenser is connected to the top of the radiator you can insert the feet pegs (with rubber discs on them from the old into the holes. Press that assembly toward the grill of the car and tighten with a ratchet on the 8mm bolts the tabs/feet securing the condenser to the AC.
14. Now reinstall the shroud. The shroud isn't very rigid and you need to be careful a corner doesn't rub on the radiator and bend fins, especially on the right side near the the oil filter. You will notice that the whole assembly now is a bit thicker than it was. It might make reinstalling the cold side intercooler pipe a challenge. Mine touches the shroud now.
15. Reconnect all the hoses, air box, plugs, etc. Fill the reservoir (I use 75% distilled water and 25% dex concentrate). Make sure you either transplanted the bleeder from your old radiator or bought a new one. Keep the bleed screw open while filling. I took my time, let it settle, never filling more than an inch above the "max" line. Takes a long time but no overfill and no bubbles. Once the level stays a bit over the max line, close the bleed screw and replace the reservoir cap.
16. Go drive it! Let it warm up, observe any changes and let the car cool down. Once cool, reopen the reservoir cap and open the bleeder screw until coolant comes out. Then tighten the screw again and fill the reservoir with coolant a bit above the max line if it settled down from the drive. Now you should be totally bled and done!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1. Watch Mishimoto's radiator install a few times to get familiar with the parts and hoses, etc. Drain radiator first with reservoir open and bottom radiator hose pulled.
2. If you aren't going to remove the bumper and install the Mountune the way they do the Mishimoto, then there's some equipment you need:
A. A jack that can do a 20 inch lift.
B. 2 jack stands and chocks for your rear wheels.
3. Regardless of your intent to replace stock radiator hoses, get some worm gear or T-bolt clamps to replace the stock spring clamps. The new radiator connectors have a lip that is VERY hard to wiggle the stock clamps over. If you attempt to do so, have some really high end 45-90 degree been long needle nose pliers or bent needle nose vice grips or you will be cursing yourself.
4. Aftermarket and stock cold side charge intercooler pipe must be removed. This is the pipe to the intercooler directly below the radiator.
5. Remove the air intake at least up to the piece running between the engine cover and the firewall. The air box absolutely must be removed.
6. Remove the lower and upper radiator hoses. Detach the vacuum connector from the engine block to the intake that's connected to the bottom middle of the engine block.
7. Detach the hood latch cable. Feed it out near the headlights away from the fan shroud.
8. Detach the plug from the fan controller. Get a trim popper (looks like the pry end of a hammer but smaller) and pop off all the tree clips securing the plug near the hood latch cable. Don't forget to remove that plug as well. You will probably break some clips. I broke a tab connected to the shroud over the fan guard.
9. Removing the headlights can help get you more room and an easier time seeing the layout. Made sure you pop the two tabs on the bumper cover and remove and keep the rubber tabs (shows in the Mishimoto guide). This exposes the pegs of the radiator on top that secure it to the car. You need to do this or you won't be able to separate the radiator from the condenser. All of this makes more sense if you watch the Mishimoto video.
10. Once everything is disconnected up top and front of the car is lifted at least 18 inches and secured with jack stands, disconnect the top and bottom tabs securing the fan shroud to the radiator. This can be removed from the top or bottom without too much difficulty as long as all the tree clips are popped and no cables are still connected. Once top tabs are disengaged, you should be able to lift it straight up. If you hit a snag, get under and release the bottom tabs.
11. Set the shroud aside and get under the car and disengage the clips of the radiator from the a/c condenser (looks like a skinny radiator, faces the front of the car) from the radiator. Jimmy the top portion away now and pull the radiator down through the bottom to get out. Don't manhandle the condenser because it's still connected to hard lines. Condenser stays in place. You only ever remove the old radiator and the shroud.
12. I highly suggest you buy a new bleed plug, which I took a picture of in this thread a few posts back. Put the rubber discs from the bottom of the old radiator and put those on the new. Install the new radiator from underneath the car. Before securing you need to ensure the claw from the condenser at the top interlocks with the top rim of the intercooler. Make sure to loosen the retention tabs top and bottom before attempting this step. This had to be one of the hardest parts because the top area is hard to get to interlock working from the bottom. It's easy to bend some fins.
13. Once the condenser is connected to the top of the radiator you can insert the feet pegs (with rubber discs on them from the old into the holes. Press that assembly toward the grill of the car and tighten with a ratchet on the 8mm bolts the tabs/feet securing the condenser to the AC.
14. Now reinstall the shroud. The shroud isn't very rigid and you need to be careful a corner doesn't rub on the radiator and bend fins, especially on the right side near the the oil filter. You will notice that the whole assembly now is a bit thicker than it was. It might make reinstalling the cold side intercooler pipe a challenge. Mine touches the shroud now.
15. Reconnect all the hoses, air box, plugs, etc. Fill the reservoir (I use 75% distilled water and 25% dex concentrate). Make sure you either transplanted the bleeder from your old radiator or bought a new one. Keep the bleed screw open while filling. I took my time, let it settle, never filling more than an inch above the "max" line. Takes a long time but no overfill and no bubbles. Once the level stays a bit over the max line, close the bleed screw and replace the reservoir cap.
16. Go drive it! Let it warm up, observe any changes and let the car cool down. Once cool, reopen the reservoir cap and open the bleeder screw until coolant comes out. Then tighten the screw again and fill the reservoir with coolant a bit above the max line if it settled down from the drive. Now you should be totally bled and done!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yay! I got my car back on Aug 6th! The dealer replaced the radiator, fan relay and a joint.
Car seems ok. Went over 210 in 80 degree weather when I hit some traffic, but I attributed this to the previous 50 plus miles at 70 mph. It did cool down to 188-194 range.
If you dont have an accessport for accurate temp readings invest in the bluetooth OBD reader and whatever app you need to support it.
The little row of blue lights is worthless. 188 to over 200 and no change in the display.
Anyway, it was different driving the '17 Fusion Hybrid. A constant moaning sound unless youre on electric, then LOOK OUT 4 PEDESTRIANS!
People staring at their phones walk right in front of you.
Loud pipes save lives!!!!!
Car seems ok. Went over 210 in 80 degree weather when I hit some traffic, but I attributed this to the previous 50 plus miles at 70 mph. It did cool down to 188-194 range.
If you dont have an accessport for accurate temp readings invest in the bluetooth OBD reader and whatever app you need to support it.
The little row of blue lights is worthless. 188 to over 200 and no change in the display.
Anyway, it was different driving the '17 Fusion Hybrid. A constant moaning sound unless youre on electric, then LOOK OUT 4 PEDESTRIANS!
People staring at their phones walk right in front of you.
Loud pipes save lives!!!!!
I took mine in today. All they did was check the cooling system and told me "Well it all looks good" Yah no shit its sitting in the shop not being driven in heat and up hills and no ac on. Had to raise my voice a little as everything they wrote down when I explained how I can get it to over heat fell on def hears even though its right there on the service ticket. Gonna see if I can somehow mount my camera and record me driving up a hill and the temps go till it limps.
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