2016 fiesta st overheating

[Capri to ST]

Mine sits at 4 bars from 120 to 235. Way too much variance for me! Wish it was way more linear!

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Thanks, that tends to confirm what those first few data points indicated. I agree with you, that's a big range from 4 bars to 5.

Edit- This reminds me that the owner's mag tech writer for a previous car said that engineers for modern cars manipulate temperature a lot more than they used to to control things like emissions. They don't make the gauges too exact or linear because the fluctuations would be alarming to owners, and sometimes make them think something was wrong when it wasn't. I understand that, but it would still be nice to have a little more of a hint. Here's a reference to what I remembered in a BMW forum-

I know that Mike Miller (Roundel Tech Talk) has written that the temp gauge on most BMW models newer than the E34 are "buffered," so that they don't reflect every... variation in temp. Apparently some customers were complaining about the temperature fluctuations that are a normal part of driving. So BMW buffered the gauge to only move in discrete steps , in effect making it insensitive to minor variations until they were big enough to matter.

 

[Quisp]

Tbe original 900 Ninja temp gauge read high in normal operation. Leading owners to the complain. The fix was a resistor to lower the needle .

 

[M-Sport fan]

Has anyone with an AP measured what coolant temperature it displays v. how many bars are showing on the dash gauge? @jayrod 1980, I believe earlier on this thread you said it goes to 5 bars at 236 deg and to the max of 8 bars at 250, where it goes into limp mode. It would be great if anyone has this info for all bars, and to know if you're you're stock or modified. I don't have an AP. To start a chart based on this info-

BARS ON GAUGE / TEMP ON ACESSPORT
1-
2-
3-
4-(NORMAL)122? *
5- 236
6-
7-
8- (MAX) 250

* I looked back at a thread on warming up the car, the other side of the coin. Someone reported seeing 4 bars, indicating the car's warmed up, at 122 deg. As you all know, the car shows that it's warmed up very quickly, maybe more quickly that it really is. On a cold start on a warm day, I'll show one bar by 10-15 sec, and 4 bars can show in under a minute.
However, it doesn't make sense to me that 4 bars = 122, and 5 bars = 236, that's a huge jump. Anyway, it would be interesting to see what folks have measured.

IF I remember correctly, I once did this with my Kiwi wi-fi OBD2 device and an old iPod with the Dash Command app, and yes, it showed 4 bars at only ~125*F coolant temp.
VERY disconcerting, as the oil is still COLD at that water temp!

My car has never seen over 205*F coolant temps yet, at least not any time I've monitored the temps with the above setup, so I do not know how many bars are showing at those levels.

I KNOW this model is based on an "economy car" as everyone loves to remind us on here, but, being a supposed performance model, we should have at least had the OPTION for a supplementary gauge package with and accurate; coolant and oil temp, oil pressure, and boost gauge, at the very least.
(But of course the very same could be said of a factory installed limited slip option. )

I for one, would have GLADLY paid extra for THAT (not so much for nav/sunroof/etc.), as the installation of all of those gauges could be a small fortune in the aftermarket, and for the tuner shop labor for someone totally incompetent as far a that installation is concerned.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Thanks, that tends to confirm what those first few data points indicated. I agree with you, that's a big range from 4 bars to 5.

Edit- This reminds me that the owner's mag tech writer for a previous car said that engineers for modern cars manipulate temperature a lot more than they used to to control things like emissions. They don't make the gauges too exact or linear because the fluctuations would be alarming to owners, and sometimes make them think something was wrong when it wasn't. I understand that, but it would still be nice to have a little more of a hint. Here's a reference to what I remembered in a BMW forum-

I know that Mike Miller (Roundel Tech Talk) has written that the temp gauge on most BMW models newer than the E34 are "buffered," so that they don't reflect every... variation in temp. Apparently some customers were complaining about the temperature fluctuations that are a normal part of driving. So BMW buffered the gauge to only move in discrete steps , in effect making it insensitive to minor variations until they were big enough to matter.

THANKS for bringing up this excellent point!

 

[Erbarry]

So got the warning today while sitting at a light. I drove off and it was in limp mode but quickly began to go down. Highest temp was 247 but damn that gauge is useless as it doesn't really move until it hits a certain temperature. I was driving around 230 and never budged. I check the coolant and it's where it needs to be but I will check later once cooled down more. Has anyone found an actual solution? I will check to see what relay I have once it cools down.

 

[Truth in Ruin]

So got the warning today while sitting at a light. I drove off and it was in limp mode but quickly began to go down. Highest temp was 247 but damn that gauge is useless as it doesn't really move until it hits a certain temperature. I was driving around 230 and never budged. I check the coolant and it's where it needs to be but I will check later once cooled down more. Has anyone found an actual solution? I will check to see what relay I have once it cools down.

I did; a new radiator. Take it to a dealer, and when they say they can't figure-out what's wrong, tell them to use infrared on the radiator.

 

[Alanbolt]

Stopped by the FORD dealer on my way home. They were told by FORD to flush system, look for debris. My SA, told me they were going to order a radiator.
Next week. Maybe.

A lighter exploded in the console. No damage. Its been hot. Been driving 41 years and NEVER seen that.

 

[Intuit]

....... A lighter exploded in the console. No damage. Its been hot. Been driving 41 years and NEVER seen that.

Well, you are in Sun City.
Glad it didn't light your car on fire.
There is some wiring, and a relay center that you'll want to check on.

 

[jayrod1980]

As mentioned before, I planned to flush my coolant now that I know where the drain vent plug is (thumb screw on back of the radiator near the hood latch on the driver's side). I fully drained it, flushed it through with a few gallons of water, and ran it with bottom hose disconnected and coolant expansion tank full of water and heater on to flush the coolant out of the heater. Then I flushed it with another couple gallons of water (bought a bunch of distilled water because I don't trust running ultra-hard Vegas hose water through it). Then I put in a 25/75 coolant/water mix of the orange stuff (concentrate). Flushing it I had the vent plug and expansion tank open which helped it drain faster. Filling it I left the plug open and closed it up once coolant started flowing out of it. After filling, I drove around awhile, let it cool down, and burped it some more as well as filling the expansion tank a little above the top line. Driving around I notice a little bit faster cooling off after acceleration, but it still heats up to about 220F, even when high speed cruising. So far it seems to be running a little cooler.

I didn't think this would solve my issues, but guaranteeing I got all the air pockets out and flushing out the mix I had before with Water Wetter (which I didn't know would gunk up in the radiator) was worth it. It was 117F yesterday and in high speed driving temps went up to 220F and oil temps of 240F. During 70-90MPH driving coolant temps stay under control, but I think the high readings there are due to how hot the oil gets at speed. The radiator is working overtime with such high oil temperatures. The opposite is true with stop and go driving on city streets. Baking at stop lights the radiator doesn't seem to be getting enough airflow. Also, concerning the temp gun readings of the radiator, it makes sense that one side is much hotter than the other. The radiator fan only covers about 65% of the radiator. The other side just has vent flaps on the back side of the shroud.

For those that have either the Mishimoto or the Mountune radiator, I'd be curious to know what average oil temperatures are during high speed highway driving. I have a desolate 28 mile stretch with a total climb of about 1000ft and a 70MPH speed limit on the way to work. I usually set cruise control to 78MPH and even when it's in the 40's in the winter, oil temps sit between 205-218F on the way to work, while coolant stays between 184F-195F. With these 100F+ Vegas summer days, oil temps sit between 220F and 235F, topping out at around 240F.

 

[M-Sport fan]

For those that have either the Mishimoto or the Mountune radiator, I'd be curious to know what average oil temperatures are during high speed highway driving. I have a desolate 28 mile stretch with a total climb of about 1000ft and a 70MPH speed limit on the way to work. I usually set cruise control to 78MPH and even when it's in the 40's in the winter, oil temps sit between 205-218F on the way to work, while coolant stays between 184F-195F. With these 100F+ Vegas summer days, oil temps sit between 220F and 235F, topping out at around 240F.

+1, but of course it would have to be from those who kept the factory oil to coolant heat exchanger, and did not go to a Mishi, or custom air to oil cooler.

It is basically only the RED (pink??) Water Wetter which 'gunks up', mainly in Dex Cool-like formulation chemistries, whereas the Red Line BLUE (diesel formula) WW does not tend to do this, as well as the other products on the market (i.e.; RP's Purple Ice, Motul's MoCool, LubeGard's Cool-It, etc.).

 

[eddietorr]

As mentioned before, I planned to flush my coolant now that I know where the drain vent plug is (thumb screw on back of the radiator near the hood latch on the driver's side). I fully drained it, flushed it through with a few gallons of water, and ran it with bottom hose disconnected and coolant expansion tank full of water and heater on to flush the coolant out of the heater. Then I flushed it with another couple gallons of water (bought a bunch of distilled water because I don't trust running ultra-hard Vegas hose water through it). Then I put in a 25/75 coolant/water mix of the orange stuff (concentrate). Flushing it I had the vent plug and expansion tank open which helped it drain faster. Filling it I left the plug open and closed it up once coolant started flowing out of it. After filling, I drove around awhile, let it cool down, and burped it some more as well as filling the expansion tank a little above the top line. Driving around I notice a little bit faster cooling off after acceleration, but it still heats up to about 220F, even when high speed cruising. So far it seems to be running a little cooler.

I didn't think this would solve my issues, but guaranteeing I got all the air pockets out and flushing out the mix I had before with Water Wetter (which I didn't know would gunk up in the radiator) was worth it. It was 117F yesterday and in high speed driving temps went up to 220F and oil temps of 240F. During 70-90MPH driving coolant temps stay under control, but I think the high readings there are due to how hot the oil gets at speed. The radiator is working overtime with such high oil temperatures. The opposite is true with stop and go driving on city streets. Baking at stop lights the radiator doesn't seem to be getting enough airflow. Also, concerning the temp gun readings of the radiator, it makes sense that one side is much hotter than the other. The radiator fan only covers about 65% of the radiator. The other side just has vent flaps on the back side of the shroud.

For those that have either the Mishimoto or the Mountune radiator, I'd be curious to know what average oil temperatures are during high speed highway driving. I have a desolate 28 mile stretch with a total climb of about 1000ft and a 70MPH speed limit on the way to work. I usually set cruise control to 78MPH and even when it's in the 40's in the winter, oil temps sit between 205-218F on the way to work, while coolant stays between 184F-195F. With these 100F+ Vegas summer days, oil temps sit between 220F and 235F, topping out at around 240F.

I have a mountune radiator with or oil cooler. 15 minute drive with highway and streets in 104 degree weather oil temp peaked at 209 and coolant temps maintained 200. Off the fwy the oil temp went down around 190. I'll keep an eye on it more too/from work.

 

[Nightcrew13]

I have a mountune radiator with or oil cooler. 15 minute drive with highway and streets in 104 degree weather oil temp peaked at 209 and coolant temps maintained 200. Off the fwy the oil temp went down around 190. I'll keep an eye on it more too/from work.

Never monitored my temps before I installed BigMouth and Oil cooler and I get the same temps as you.

 

[jayrod1980]

Hmm... but does the blue stuff actually help? I used wetter before because it was reported to help cooling by 5-10%. I'm this close to just pulling the trigger on an aftermarket radiator.

I'd totally go the oil cooler route too but the DHM bar (when I got it) doesn't support the Mishimoto without some custom brackets, and I don't want the lines to rub.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Well, now that we have more than one larger, aftermarket radiator to choose from, maybe there will be some competition for Mishi with another oil cooler kit coming onto the market? (HOPEFULLY!)

 

[eddietorr]

Never monitored my temps before I installed BigMouth and Oil cooler and I get the same temps as you.

So far I am very happy with my mountune radiator. I was mainly concerned with my coolant temps, but I'm going to keep an eye on oil temps now as well.

 

[jayrod1980]

How are your coolant temps in stop and go traffic? I'm just tired of seeing 225-230F on the street. Zooming around on the freeway, the airflow seems to be good enough.

 

[Flaco]

For those that have either the Mishimoto or the Mountune radiator, I'd be curious to know what average oil temperatures are during high speed highway driving. I have a desolate 28 mile stretch with a total climb of about 1000ft and a 70MPH speed limit on the way to work. I usually set cruise control to 78MPH and even when it's in the 40's in the winter, oil temps sit between 205-218F on the way to work, while coolant stays between 184F-195F. With these 100F+ Vegas summer days, oil temps sit between 220F and 235F, topping out at around 240F.

I have a 40 mile highway commute and usually drive 75-80mph. I have installed the Mishimoto Rad about 3 months ago. Have not noticed the oil temp going much above 200 degrees. Water temps stay below 195 degrees for me. We have had several 95 degree days here in North Ga. After reading this thread, I'm glad I got the Mishimoto Rad. I however was not having any problems with the radiator or temps. But always felt the OEM radiator was not sufficient for temps here in the southern and western states.

 

[Erbarry]

So has anyone been to the dealer and has actually had this problem fixed? Friday going home in stop and go traffic the temps got up to 240 and yesterday it reached 239 with constant moving on the highway and the gauge didn't move at all. This is frustrating with a brand new car.

 

[Truth in Ruin]

So has anyone been to the dealer and has actually had this problem fixed? Friday going home in stop and go traffic the temps got up to 240 and yesterday it reached 239 with constant moving on the highway and the gauge didn't move at all. This is frustrating with a brand new car.

I have. They replaced my radiator; I haven't had a problem since. I think someone else has had a radiator replacement as well.

 

[Erbarry]

I have. They replaced my radiator; I haven't had a problem since. I think someone else has had a radiator replacement as well.

You don't happen to have the part number the swapped it out with?