2016 fiesta st overheating

[Intuit]

For whatever reason, the recall notice on the relay disappeared from https://owner.ford.com/tools/account/maintenance/recalls/results.html . It was there before.

Folks, the difference between the relays are larger contacts and presumably additional load capacity. Putting too much load through the relay contacts simply means that they get too hot. If you pulled the original relay and observed no damage, then it is highly unlikely that replacing it will have any impact on engine operating temperatures unless the original relay was bad/defective. But the recall wasn't issued for a bad/defective relay, it was issued for the the wrong one having been installed. Regardless, you don't want to (slowly) damage the female contacts in your fuse box; and it's a good idea to replace it sooner, rather than later.

In >16k for my 2016, my coolant levels have been fine (when reading it with the car level) and haven't experienced any cooling issues. Never the less, I am curious about verifying high speed fan operation. For my old EEC-IV vehicle it was as simple as initiating a self-test with the engine off; aside from a failed head gasket and cracked head it's cooling system never had any issues. I'll need to do a little research to find out about any equivalent test for this one.

I'm also curious to know whether the coolant reservoir level can potentially meet the hose line when the car is climbing a steep grade. But that's something they likely engineered for and would doubt it. Still curious to confirm though.

 

[Truth in Ruin]

Just got off the phone with the service manager at the dealership where my car has been for a week and a half. He said they figured out that the coolant wasn't cycling properly in the radiator, but it's not the thermostat and it's not a clog. He told me it looked like a manufacturing defect in the radiator. And that was somewhat backed up when he also told me he called their main Ford service parts place to get a new radiator and it has a different part number than the one on my 2016, which to him suggests there IS a larger problem with the radiators that Ford is aware of and they have changed something in the radiator build, resulting in a new part number and hopefully a fix to what has taken them nearly two weeks to figure out.

Now, some of you on here may know more insider information and details and can say if that's bullshit and he's covering something else up. But if what he said is true, then there potentially is a bigger problem with some of these stock radiators.

Just as I expected.

 

[Alanbolt]

My rad was useless once I started putting it to track applications, and Im not even talking hard track applications. I would get about a lap and a half of a 2.4 mile track (80F and partly cloudy) before mine went into crawl mode. Since replacing it with the Mishimoto Rad (and Oil Cooler for shits) Ive had absolutely no problems with overheating. Coolant temps rarely go above 200-210 on track, and Im pushing it significantly harder. It seems like for every one person I meet thats had overheating problems on the track I meet two that dont. Not sure why some cooling systems perform better than others, but it is what it is.

This would be evidence of the failed engineering of the cooling capacity of the stock FORD radiator, would it not?

 

[jayrod1980]

Can you please get the part number of the new radiator?

 

[M-Sport fan]

Just got off the phone with the service manager at the dealership where my car has been for a week and a half. He said they figured out that the coolant wasn't cycling properly in the radiator, but it's not the thermostat and it's not a clog. He told me it looked like a manufacturing defect in the radiator. And that was somewhat backed up when he also told me he called their main Ford service parts place to get a new radiator and it has a different part number than the one on my 2016, which to him suggests there IS a larger problem with the radiators that Ford is aware of and they have changed something in the radiator build, resulting in a new part number and hopefully a fix to what has taken them nearly two weeks to figure out.

Now, some of you on here may know more insider information and details and can say if that's bullshit and he's covering something else up. But if what he said is true, then there potentially is a bigger problem with some of these stock radiators.

What is your car's build date?

 

[Alanbolt]

Mine is still in the shop. One week. So far. Radio silence from dealership except to make me come in and exchange a rental car. Over 100 degrees is normal summer weather here.
My car is not even a year old.
If it was a thermostat, relay, radiator, hose, fan, or sending unit pretty sure they would have given me my car back. It will stay pretty much at 100 or above during the days for the next 90 days at least.
I have YEARS of payments left on a car that is, quite frankly losing my confidence.
If someone wants to sponsor me a MIshimoto radiator and a mountune I/C Id be stoked.
Thought I saw a post about fitment with anything other than stock with the Mishi is not allowed.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Can you please get the part number of the new radiator?

+1, but, IF I am going to go through the pain of changing out a radiator on these cars, it is going to be a much higher capacity aftermarket one, NOT a stock replacement.

At this point, I don't even know if I trust any of the local dealerships to do this job properly under warranty/recall/TSB.

 

[ThaiFiesta]

Just sucks an OEM radiator is only about $145 (not that it fits but the Focus ST radiator is only $128!) and these aftermarket ones are a min $470. I guess that's the price you pay to mod your car for more performance.

The R5 rally Fiestas use a Taurus radiator as it's the biggest OEM radiator they could get to fit. Not sure how much modification is required for that though.

You should also regularly check your expansion tanks for microcracks due to the heat cycling they endure. Mine (2014) was recently replaced under warranty

 

[jayrod1980]

Hah, MSport, amen to that. I can't even trust them to not scratch and ding my cars. There's exactly one dealer who's done anything decent, and they are 300 miles from my house. In the last 10 years of owning fords, the worst part about it is their service departments. I do all my own maintenance and installation on the Fiesta, and whatever I'm able to reasonably do on my wife's Flex Ecoboost. The engine Bay of that car is a pain in the butt with half of the cylinders seemingly inaccessible and cords and hoses zip ties all over the engine.

 

[M-Sport fan]

The R5 rally Fiestas use a Taurus radiator as it's the biggest OEM radiator they could get to fit.

The FIA R5 rules (vs. the works WRC class rules) require an 'off the shelf'/parts bin corporate factory radiator, or do those teams use them because they are easily accessible?

 

[Danzofist]

Got my car back from dealer today. The replacement radiator came in earlier than expected so they installed and tested it today.

I double checked their work real quick and it looks good. No stripped screws, loose bolts or hose clamps. Unfortunately the techs were all gone for the day by the time I got in so I didn't get to ask but I can upload the full report if there's interest.

Apparently the thermostat was broken and stuck open, despite the tech telling me on the phone that the thermostat wasn't an issue at all. They also report that the coolant temp sensor was reading 22 degrees hotter than when they tested with a laser temp gun. Then they used the gun to test the radiator itself and found it was 190 on the upper side, 100 on lower side, and 130 in the middle. Replaced radiator and everything was fine.

On the drive home, I had Torque Pro running and temps never went over 194 in the 110 degree heat. Usually it would easily be reading over 220 coolant temps on that same drive, weather, and time of day.

The FP number for the new radiator is C1BZ-8005-A.

Fingers crossed that the issue is fixed!

 

[Truth in Ruin]

Got my car back from dealer today. The replacement radiator came in earlier than expected so they installed and tested it today.

I double checked their work real quick and it looks good. No stripped screws, loose bolts or hose clamps. Unfortunately the techs were all gone for the day by the time I got in so I didn't get to ask but I can upload the full report if there's interest.

Apparently the thermostat was broken and stuck open, despite the tech telling me on the phone that the thermostat wasn't an issue at all. They also report that the coolant temp sensor was reading 22 degrees hotter than when they tested with a laser temp gun. Then they used the gun to test the radiator itself and found it was 190 on the upper side, 100 on lower side, and 130 in the middle. Replaced radiator and everything was fine.

On the drive home, I had Torque Pro running and temps never went over 194 in the 110 degree heat. Usually it would easily be reading over 220 coolant temps on that same drive, weather, and time of day.

The FP number for the new radiator is C1BZ-8005-A.

Fingers crossed that the issue is fixed!

Good deal! My fingers are crossed, too. I remember the dealer saying it was on the left side of the radiator. Whatever the case, this does NOT seem like a fluke. Many more will have the same experience.

 

[GAbOS]

Air in the system will cause similar issues as posted here.

 

[ThaiFiesta]

Not sure if it is a series rule or a requirement to keep the budget as low as possible and therefore use OEM Ford parts, albeit from different models. The interview was on the M-Sport website.

 

[flaxseedoil1000]

In >16k for my 2016, my coolant levels have been fine (when reading it with the car level) and haven't experienced any cooling issues.

Ha, same here, 2016, 16k

Was about 107 here in So Cal, sitting in traffic, temp never budged.

 

[jayrod1980]

Well thanks for the picture, but unless you have an accessport or similar plugged into your OBD2 port, that water gauge is useless. It won't report anything until you hit 236F.

 

[jmrtsus]

Well thanks for the picture, but unless you have an accessport or similar plugged into your OBD2 port, that water gauge is useless. It won't report anything until you hit 236F.

So you are saying the first bar is 236F degrees? Really? I find that doubtful.

 

[jayrod1980]

Yes that's exactly what I've saying. The bars don't move from the middle until you are 15 degrees from going into limp mode. Under 235 it will remain like the picture.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Yes that's exactly what I've saying. The bars don't move from the middle until you are 15 degrees from going into limp mode. Under 235 it will remain like the picture.

WHEN this happens, and it is 15*F away from shutting everything down, does it just fill in the other two bars in the middle 'bracket' (in other words; 6 bars TOTAL), or does it fill in those, and actually go outside of the bracket, and fill in the next two bars to the right towards H?

 

[jayrod1980]

I recall the next two bars filled at 236 or so. Once you hit 250F it's totally filled and you go into limp mode