ST XTA install tips

[Chuckable]

ST XTA install tips with a few pics

Not sure where this post should go, so mods please move it if necessary.

Here's an image I stole from the Lethal Performance Website:

I had the chance to install the ST XTA suspension over the weekend which I bought used from a member here. I've attached the Setup Manual that ST emailed to me: View attachment ST Setup Manual.pdf I also have the Installation Instructions, but they are apparently too large a file to attach, so if anyone needs it just message me.

Anyway, if anyone is going to tackle this project, here are a few things I learned along the way:

1) Remove the wiper cowl; just do it. I thought I'd save time by not removing it, but getting to the nut at the back of the strut towers, especially on the driver's side is just a pain unless you remove the cowl. It's less of a problem on the passenger side. Nevertheless, the time you take you remove the cowl will likely end up saving you time in the long run.
2) If you're going to want to do camber adjustment at the camber plate, then you're going to have to drill a hole in the strut tower. I just couldn't bear to cut my car up like that, so I didn't. But, there is also camber adjustment at the knuckle via slotted mounting.
3) Set up the height adjustment off the car as best as you can. It's more difficult to adjust the height with the suspension installed.
4) When adjusting the rear ride height, remove the height adjuster from the car rather than trying to adjust it while installed. You only need to remove the lower shock bolts and the rear springs will pop right out.
5) Where the shock mount bolts to the chassis and pokes through to the interior, you'll likely need to file the area down a bit or slightly enlarge it with a drill. Otherwise the nut may squeak due to tight clearance.
6) Take your time when removing the rear interior trim panels. There are many clips and you want to make sure that they don't get bent or improperly reinstalled or else you may introduce new squeaks into the cabin.

The coilovers are slightly shorter than stock. Here's my comparison:


And here's the end result with bad lighting:

I have the height set about 5mm from the highest setting. It's still a bit low for my taste.

 

[Ryephile]

That stance looks absolutely perfect.

I'd love to hear your feedback on how the car handles and rides now. Transitions for quick lane changes, taut and not floppy? Small high frequency ripples in the road well absorbed, large bumps too?

 

[thaiphoon]

That looks amazing. I think a tad bit lower than stock is all this car needs. Springs that I've seen are too low for my tastes.

And very similar to a picture I took of my car a while back. Guess it could be a good reference for stock height.

 

[Chuckable]

That stance looks absolutely perfect.

I'd love to hear your feedback on how the car handles and rides now. Transitions for quick lane changes, taut and not floppy? Small high frequency ripples in the road well absorbed, large bumps too?

Glad you like it! I'm taking it in to a local shop for corner balancing and an alignment in a few days, and after that's complete I'll be able to give you a better idea of the ride and handling. Initial impressions are that the ride is actually a little softer than stock. Quick lane changes feel about the same, not floppy but still get some body roll. High frequency ripples like expansion joints on an overpass send a good jolt through the car with each impact that wasn't there before. Large bumps are absorbed and damped well. This is all with 9 clicks on the rebound damping front and rear.

 

[Chuckable]

That looks amazing. I think a tad bit lower than stock is all this car needs. Springs that I've seen are too low for my tastes.

And very similar to a picture I took of my car a while back. Guess it could be a good reference for stock height.

That's almost the exact same pic, thanks! Yes, I agree with you - a little lower than stock is all it needs.

 

[15pbfist]

i have these and you only get +/- .6* of adjustment on the top camber plates from 0 setting from the digital camber gauge i had bought i cut the top strut tower used a small hole saw as a guide and attached it to the bigger one to cut the actual hole

 

[Chuckable]

i have these and you only get +/- .6* of adjustment on the top camber plates from 0 setting from the digital camber gauge i had bought i cut the top strut tower used a small hole saw as a guide and attached it to the bigger one to cut the actual hole

Nice shot of the adjuster! And thanks for the response What size saw(s) did you end up using?

Such a pain to adjust them, though, isn't it? Have to remove the cowl each time, at least for the driver side.

 

[15pbfist]

Don't remember the hole size and yes you have to take cowl off but that takes 5 min also once adjusted to your -2* or whatever you run how much are you really going to adjust

 

[Chuckable]

I'm at -1.5 camber and that extra -0.6 would be nice for autocrossing or track days, especially since it won't require a realignment afterward.

 

[15pbfist]

Then I would take the cowl off the day of event and leave it off till you get back home to put the camber back to the 1.5 I hate taking the headlights in and out for the cowl if we didn't have to do that it would be so much better

 

[LilPartyBox]

Nice stance.

Did you find a shop manual for all of the torque specs?

 

[Chuckable]

Then I would take the cowl off the day of event and leave it off till you get back home to put the camber back to the 1.5 I hate taking the headlights in and out for the cowl if we didn't have to do that it would be so much better

Good idea about just leaving the cowl off. I don't mind taking the headlights out as much I dislike removing the wiper arms and all the clips for the cowl

 

[Chuckable]

Nice stance.

Did you find a shop manual for all of the torque specs?

The instructions from Suspension Techniques provide some of the torque specs. For the others I just used an educated guess.

 

[LilPartyBox]

Yeaaa that's not gonna be enough for me. Not with suspension. Time to dig up the factory shop manual. Thx

 

[Hwy9FiST]

If anyone reading this hasn't installed them yet...

You certainly don't need to cut a hole in the top of the strut tower. Just max out the camber (which is 0.6?) and let your alignment shop add or take away camber. I get my front done every month... and every other time its free. Make friends with your alignment shop

And you don't need to remove the cowl to install. I ordered an install tool... got tired of waiting for the one day shipping to arrive and installed them anyway. You will need a 13mm ratcheting wrench... it will make it a lot easier. Also you need to wear gloves because it is a tight space.

Reading all the different opinions on the forums messed with me... So I thought it was impossible (without a wiper arm puller) until I tried it.

IMO its not worth cutting those holes if you need to take off the cowl to adjust them on the fly.

 

[Jason3d]

Thanks for posting this! I just installed the XTA's yesterday and had the squeaking in the rear. Sure enough it is the nut going through the upper mount rubbing the clearance hole in the chassis. I lubed it for now and will use a dremel to enlarge the hole for a permanent fix. Other than that, these coilovers are amazing! I set them a couple of clicks softer than the 9 recommended in the instructions and the ride is the best I have ever had from a coilover. Still flat and sporty too.