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What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?
![[twothumb]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_twothumbs.gif "Two Thumbs [twothumb]"){kind=icon}
I started at 6:30 AM to beat a bit of the 117 degree heat today, it was over 80 when I started, I just finished about an hour ago, 12 hours in a hot garage, it was a bit rough but I am fine, having ice cold Sierra Nevada IPA now to revived a bit
Today's projects completed.
Installed DIY Waste Gate water cooling.
Final test, drain, fill with 50/50 WM, WMI system.
Insulate WMI, WG water lines, fuel lines, brake lines, etc in the area of the WG, DP, manifold.
Made temp rotor side brake cooling, hooked up cooling hose that is fed from center of splitter area.
Pulled passenger side rear 4 piston rear brake off, newest DIY designed billet caliper mount to move the calipers in a bit to clear the new Fastbrakes, rear parking brake cable mounts, a bit to close to the rotor so mic'd and shimmed the caliper out .047"
Added 1/4-20 SS threaded rod from DHM bumper beam to center of splitter to help support it.
Tried to shim the front lower control arm urethane bushings as when fully tight the sleeve they come with allows the bushings to be compressed a bit and less linear. Not able to get a shim installed as did not have the right tools on hand, most of mine are in storage in NV, I did load the suspension and tighten in that position just like stock bushings should always be done to eliminate preload. Even though it binds a little it is still far more linear than stock fixed rubber bushings that tighten as they flex which changes the compliance as they compress or unload.
Packed tool bag and misc stuff for the shake down drive in 117 degree temp, bought a bunch of water and when to trader joes to restock on organics.
I got on it a bit here and there, hit 23.4 PSI once, cruising at 75-80 on the Interstate highest oil temp reading on the AP was 211 degrees. water temp on the dash display right in the middle, A/C cranked up and nice and comfy inside
Having a bigger radiator, oil cooler, even big IC, all air ducted in via opened up grill, 40% of oil cooler air flows to engine bay below hood vents instead of into the radiator. IC lowered, 20% or more flows below radiator.
Warmed it up, leak test, all clear, drive test, all clear, cruise test, passed 100%, all in all a very good day
Today's projects completed.
Installed DIY Waste Gate water cooling.
Final test, drain, fill with 50/50 WM, WMI system.
Insulate WMI, WG water lines, fuel lines, brake lines, etc in the area of the WG, DP, manifold.
Made temp rotor side brake cooling, hooked up cooling hose that is fed from center of splitter area.
Pulled passenger side rear 4 piston rear brake off, newest DIY designed billet caliper mount to move the calipers in a bit to clear the new Fastbrakes, rear parking brake cable mounts, a bit to close to the rotor so mic'd and shimmed the caliper out .047"
Added 1/4-20 SS threaded rod from DHM bumper beam to center of splitter to help support it.
Tried to shim the front lower control arm urethane bushings as when fully tight the sleeve they come with allows the bushings to be compressed a bit and less linear. Not able to get a shim installed as did not have the right tools on hand, most of mine are in storage in NV, I did load the suspension and tighten in that position just like stock bushings should always be done to eliminate preload. Even though it binds a little it is still far more linear than stock fixed rubber bushings that tighten as they flex which changes the compliance as they compress or unload.
Packed tool bag and misc stuff for the shake down drive in 117 degree temp, bought a bunch of water and when to trader joes to restock on organics.
I got on it a bit here and there, hit 23.4 PSI once, cruising at 75-80 on the Interstate highest oil temp reading on the AP was 211 degrees. water temp on the dash display right in the middle, A/C cranked up and nice and comfy inside
Having a bigger radiator, oil cooler, even big IC, all air ducted in via opened up grill, 40% of oil cooler air flows to engine bay below hood vents instead of into the radiator. IC lowered, 20% or more flows below radiator.
Warmed it up, leak test, all clear, drive test, all clear, cruise test, passed 100%, all in all a very good day
The Axe wheels look great, I am a big fan of 15x8 on this car, 205/50/15 is a great size tire, as long as the actual specs are good and these are with 7.5 tread width, 8.4 section width, 23.1 diameter, 19lbs so nice and low weight, wheels are a decent weight.
The combined weight is quite good, right about where my 15x9 with 225/45/15 RA1 shaved race tires are at as well as my same wheels with 225/45/15 Rival S tires. My 15x8 6ul with 205/50/15 NeoGens are 31lbs which is super lite so 33.8 is dang good for your setup.
The +30 offset is pushing the limits on the geometry but you gain back some of the hit with the effect on the body weight leverage reduced and very sticky tires, you should be really enjoying the overall performance gain as considerable and looks great as well
Depending on how worn the stock tires were the diameter difference of 23.1 to 23.4 will make the speedo off a bit thus mileage numbers not exactly accurate but I bet pretty close. The weight savings of close to 40 lbs of rotational mass takes less fuel to get them moving and less brakes to stop. The ride from the sidewall gain and weight reduction should be much better that the stock wheels and ties, handling over bumps will be improved, less wear on the chassis...
The combined weight is quite good, right about where my 15x9 with 225/45/15 RA1 shaved race tires are at as well as my same wheels with 225/45/15 Rival S tires. My 15x8 6ul with 205/50/15 NeoGens are 31lbs which is super lite so 33.8 is dang good for your setup.
The +30 offset is pushing the limits on the geometry but you gain back some of the hit with the effect on the body weight leverage reduced and very sticky tires, you should be really enjoying the overall performance gain as considerable and looks great as well
Depending on how worn the stock tires were the diameter difference of 23.1 to 23.4 will make the speedo off a bit thus mileage numbers not exactly accurate but I bet pretty close. The weight savings of close to 40 lbs of rotational mass takes less fuel to get them moving and less brakes to stop. The ride from the sidewall gain and weight reduction should be much better that the stock wheels and ties, handling over bumps will be improved, less wear on the chassis...
I like the new version of the Dynapro caliper, much cleaner with the bolts and bleed screws on the back, I am pretty sure a bit more clearance from wheel spokes and possible the hump in the barrel near the spokes which where an issue that took quite a bit of time to sort out on my DIY BBK.
Also the bridge above the pads will make them much stiffer so more consistent wear and likely more linear response but will make changing pads more time consuming as have to unbolt the caliper.
Also the bridge above the pads will make them much stiffer so more consistent wear and likely more linear response but will make changing pads more time consuming as have to unbolt the caliper.
The Axe wheels look great, I am a big fan of 15x8 on this car, 205/50/15 is a great size tire, as long as the actual specs are good and these are with 7.5 tread width, 8.4 section width, 23.1 diameter, 19lbs so nice and low weight, wheels are a decent weight.
The combined weight is quite good, right about where my 15x9 with 225/45/15 RA1 shaved race tires are at as well as my same wheels with 225/45/15 Rival S tires. My 15x8 6ul with 205/50/15 NeoGens are 31lbs which is super lite so 33.8 is dang good for your setup.
The +30 offset is pushing the limits on the geometry but you gain back some of the hit with the effect on the body weight leverage reduced and very sticky tires, you should be really enjoying the overall performance gain as considerable and looks great as well
Depending on how worn the stock tires were the diameter difference of 23.1 to 23.4 will make the speedo off a bit thus mileage numbers not exactly accurate but I bet pretty close. The weight savings of close to 40 lbs of rotational mass takes less fuel to get them moving and less brakes to stop. The ride from the sidewall gain and weight reduction should be much better that the stock wheels and ties, handling over bumps will be improved, less wear on the chassis...
The combined weight is quite good, right about where my 15x9 with 225/45/15 RA1 shaved race tires are at as well as my same wheels with 225/45/15 Rival S tires. My 15x8 6ul with 205/50/15 NeoGens are 31lbs which is super lite so 33.8 is dang good for your setup.
The +30 offset is pushing the limits on the geometry but you gain back some of the hit with the effect on the body weight leverage reduced and very sticky tires, you should be really enjoying the overall performance gain as considerable and looks great as well
Depending on how worn the stock tires were the diameter difference of 23.1 to 23.4 will make the speedo off a bit thus mileage numbers not exactly accurate but I bet pretty close. The weight savings of close to 40 lbs of rotational mass takes less fuel to get them moving and less brakes to stop. The ride from the sidewall gain and weight reduction should be much better that the stock wheels and ties, handling over bumps will be improved, less wear on the chassis...
I am running what I could get that fit over a decent BBK I designed from Wilwood parts and wanted the 9" wide wheels for two reasons, the tires would work a bit better and the challenge of getting them under stock fenders which was a lot of work on the rear, I guess a third reason, just to be different as I have always been a bit off the wall or whatever term is appropriate
I started with the regular Fiesta kit but ordered with 11.75 GT rotors, custom caliper mounts....then I had to redo the mounts again when I got the 6ul wheels, I have a lot of time and pretty serious money into the brakes, front and rear as running 4 pistons out back as well.
I have had quite a few BBK's but this was the first time I worked it out on my own but now realize I would of been better off up front using a different caliper with thicker pads and a close call but may of gotten 12.19x 1.1" rotors to fit.
The 15x9 are +35 but need a 1mm spacer to clear the struts so more offset would of resulted in thicker spacers, +35 on a 9+ wheel is not optimal but worth it in other aspects. The 15x8 6ul is +36mm offset, I would of preferred +40 or so.
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Just to make sure this is clear, 2" drop on this car is far too much for the suspension geometry as it would put nearly all the weight on the outside tires when cornering resulting is pretty much having a 2 wheeled car. It is kind of nice to not overly drop a car and optimize the suspension angles while doing so, stock is quite good, I am lowered perhaps an inch, I did not measure it, I go by the ball joint to inner pickup point height, the inner needs to be just a tad taller than the ball joint or things go wonky really fast. I did a test I prepared well for and was 2.5 seconds faster on 45 second course with 1/4" raise in the ride height, I knew it would be better but it was shocking and not just the time, it was how the car felt and even rode.
I started with the regular Fiesta kit but ordered with 11.75 GT rotors, custom caliper mounts....then I had to redo the mounts again when I got the 6ul wheels, I have a lot of time and pretty serious money into the brakes, front and rear as running 4 pistons out back as well.
I have had quite a few BBK's but this was the first time I worked it out on my own but now realize I would of been better off up front using a different caliper with thicker pads and a close call but may of gotten 12.19x 1.1" rotors to fit.
The 15x9 are +35 but need a 1mm spacer to clear the struts so more offset would of resulted in thicker spacers, +35 on a 9+ wheel is not optimal but worth it in other aspects. The 15x8 6ul is +36mm offset, I would of preferred +40 or so.
----------
Just to make sure this is clear, 2" drop on this car is far too much for the suspension geometry as it would put nearly all the weight on the outside tires when cornering resulting is pretty much having a 2 wheeled car. It is kind of nice to not overly drop a car and optimize the suspension angles while doing so, stock is quite good, I am lowered perhaps an inch, I did not measure it, I go by the ball joint to inner pickup point height, the inner needs to be just a tad taller than the ball joint or things go wonky really fast. I did a test I prepared well for and was 2.5 seconds faster on 45 second course with 1/4" raise in the ride height, I knew it would be better but it was shocking and not just the time, it was how the car felt and even rode.
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