Stratified Flash Tune Review

[Based]

I've been out of the loop lately... can I update the firmware on my Accessport now? I remember when the new firmware came out (letting you change launch control) that stratified said the tunes weren't compatible or something...

 

[me32]

Mine seems good. Way better than Cobb stage 2/3 and Randys stage 2.

My car is an asshole though and I have a leak at ~23 PSI so still havent really been able to take full advantage. But in town the driveability is amazing now, and I really like the 1st,2nd power available. If i ever find my leak, I'll how she really pulls.

Your DV might be your leak

 

[Based]

I have a question for you all.

I just have an OTS map. Well today I was messing with the map switching via the cruise control buttons and it did something weird. I pressed the CAN/RES button, then the tachometer jumped to 2k rpm. I assume this means I'm in slot 2? And as I pressed the up button, launch control got higher and higher until the tachometer was on 5k rpm (as in map 5 I assume) and then I revved it higher and higher and eventually it didn't do the normal launch control sound, it did a poppy sound like anti-lag or 2-step. Does anyone else's do this?

My 5th map slot is a low boost map with a 3k rpm launch control. But when it made the pop sounds it was revved way higher than 3k. I'm not gonna do it anymore because idk if it's harmful.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bigPelo]

I have read the whole 107 pages of this thread...

Questions for Stratified:

1. I currently run your stage 2 flash tune (COBB intake, RMM and intercooler). If I add the GFB DV+ and Velossa Tech big mouth, will I need a tune revision?

2. On your web site about the crackle and pop, why is it recommended to be use with an aftermarket turbo-back exhaust? I see many people here running the stock exhaust.

3. Other than going with a bigger turbo, what is/are the best mods to increase top end power? TBE?

Thank you!

 

[tsunami105]

I have read the whole 107 pages of this thread...

Questions for Stratified:

1. I currently run your stage 2 flash tune (COBB intake, RMM and intercooler). If I add the GFB DV+ and Velossa Tech big mouth, will I need a tune revision?

2. On your web site about the crackle and pop, why is it recommended to be use with an aftermarket turbo-back exhaust? I see many people here running the stock exhaust.

3. Other than going with a bigger turbo, what is/are the best mods to increase top end power? TBE?

Thank you!

1) no. gfb DV+ won't need a reflash since its basically just upgrading the stock diverter valve. Big mouth wouldn't really do much as your tuned for how much air your turbo can suck in. Any more then your stock turbo becomes a heat pump.

2)Turbo back means from Turbo exhaust housing and back. Recommended cause typically people run non catted downpipes or high flow downpipes. running crackle may or may not damage your stock catalytic.

3) WMI or aux kit (wouldn't really see much top end anyways on stock tubo) but by then you might as well go big turbo. x47(~300hp on e30) or gen 2 2860r ( ~320 on 91 octane) from them.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I would speculate (just going by the actual conditions necessary to achieve these events from a tune) that eventually, a crackle and pop tune (depending on it's severity) WILL damage/destroy the coated ceramic matrix factory catcon, and most likely even an aftermarket 200 cell metal matrix catcon as well.

 

[Clint Beastwood]

I have read the whole 107 pages of this thread...

Questions for Stratified:

1. I currently run your stage 2 flash tune (COBB intake, RMM and intercooler). If I add the GFB DV+ and Velossa Tech big mouth, will I need a tune revision?
Thank you!

The GFB doesn't "add" anything so much as it "prevents loss" - it wouldn't make a substantive difference for tuning purposes. The velossa tech big mouth isn't changing anything other than the air source, you couldn't go fast enough to have that thing generating positive pressure at the turbo inlet when boosting.

 

[Clint Beastwood]

I have read the whole 107 pages of this thread...

Questions for Stratified:

1. I currently run your stage 2 flash tune (COBB intake, RMM and intercooler). If I add the GFB DV+ and Velossa Tech big mouth, will I need a tune revision?
Thank you!

The GFB doesn't "add" anything so much as it "prevents loss" - it wouldn't make a substantive difference for tuning purposes. The velossa tech big mouth isn't changing anything other than the air source, you couldn't go fast enough to have that thing generating positive pressure at the turbo inlet when boosting.

 

[Alex@Stratified]

I have read the whole 107 pages of this thread...

Questions for Stratified:

1. I currently run your stage 2 flash tune (COBB intake, RMM and intercooler). If I add the GFB DV+ and Velossa Tech big mouth, will I need a tune revision?

2. On your web site about the crackle and pop, why is it recommended to be use with an aftermarket turbo-back exhaust? I see many people here running the stock exhaust.

3. Other than going with a bigger turbo, what is/are the best mods to increase top end power? TBE?

Thank you!

Hi,

1. Those two changes should not affect the tune such that it needs an update. Keep an ear on how the new BPV releases pressure. It should do so with no to minimal surge. Boost response should be similar but if you feel oscillations in boost at onset after the BPV install we may need to make some changes to boost control. I don't expect this to be the case but it's a remote possibility.

2. Our development car is actually on the stock downpipe for well over a year running the crackles and we haven't seen an issue in terms of a cracked catalyst. However we want to make sure that you are aware that the sound pressure waves from the crackles MAY adversely affect the OEM catalyst.

3. Fuel - E85 blending or WMI. Bolt-ons do add performance but the OEM turbo is going to be a limiting factor. Of course once you upgrade the turbo the other flow modifications have a larger impact as more air and exhaust will be flowing through the system.

 

[bigPelo]

Thanks everyone for your answers!

 

[Truth in Ruin]

Purchased. 91, 93, and E30.

 

[apex1]

Purchased. 91, 93, and E30.

Did you also purchase eco versions of 2 of your tunes in your 2 remaining slots? The reason I ask is because I am seeing over 26 psi of peak boost on my Stratified tunes, and I would worry about that much boost until the the oil temp comes up after a cold start. Coolant and oil temps are 2 of the things I have set in in the AP gauges. By using the eco tune slots, I have boost limited to 15 psi and I switch to the regular performance slots once oil temp gets above 160, which does not take very long.

 

[jeff]

Purchased. 91, 93, and E30.

Did you also purchase eco versions of 2 of your tunes in your 2 remaining slots? The reason I ask is because I am seeing over 26 psi of peak boost on my Stratified tunes, and I would worry about that much boost until the the oil temp comes up after a cold start. Coolant and oil temps are 2 of the things I have set in in the AP gauges. By using the eco tune slots, I have boost limited to 15 psi and I switch to the regular performance slots once oil temp gets above 160, which does not take very long.

Or he can just wait a few minutes before flooring it and not have to fool with changing slots every time he starts the car.

 

[apex1]

Or he can just wait a few minutes before flooring it and not have to fool with changing slots every time he starts the car.

Perhaps so. My Stratified E30 tune will build 26+ psi of boost very quickly and with nowhere near flooring it. Tipping into the gas even moderately hard will have it making big boost numbers, higher than I am comfortable with on a cold engine. Switching to an eco slot helps me protect myself from myself If it takes someone 3 seconds to switch slots while they are driving, they are doing something wrong. But yes, being judicious with your right foot until the engine warms up is a good idea. It's cool with the AP to monitor up to 6 parameters at once, and to have such an extensive list to choose from.

 

[jeff]

Perhaps so. My Stratified E30 tune will build 26+ psi of boost very quickly and with nowhere near flooring it. Tipping into the gas even moderately hard will have it making big boost numbers, higher than I am comfortable with on a cold engine. Switching to an eco slot helps me protect myself from myself If it takes someone 3 seconds to switch slots while they are driving, they are doing something wrong. But yes, being judicious with your right foot until the engine warms up is a good idea. It's cool with the AP to monitor up to 6 parameters at once, and to have such an extensive list to choose from.

I’ve been driving for a number of years and I have always made it a habit to let my whatever car warm up a few minutes via normal driving before getting on it. Just a basic driving practice whether or not the car is turbo’d.

 

[Truth in Ruin]

Did you also purchase eco versions of 2 of your tunes in your 2 remaining slots? The reason I ask is because I am seeing over 26 psi of peak boost on my Stratified tunes, and I would worry about that much boost until the the oil temp comes up after a cold start. Coolant and oil temps are 2 of the things I have set in in the AP gauges. By using the eco tune slots, I have boost limited to 15 psi and I switch to the regular performance slots once oil temp gets above 160, which does not take very long.

I did not, but I appreciate the info.

 

[eric tee]

Did anybody get the Enable/Disable Throttle/Brake Safety Switch (Brake Boost) option?
Does this let the driver left foot brake as well?

 

[danbfree]

OK, so anyone notice big differences in throttle response/daily driving between 91 and 93? I originally just defaulted to 93 and was planning on using 91 for my trips to Cali, but 93 seemed so super aggressive throttle with a loss of very low end power, so I switched to 91 for my commute this morning and it seems 91 is much better for daily driving... still great power but very low end like 2nd gear very low speed rolling through a stop has a bit more grunt to not bog down. Like the email said, with 93 I do spike to almost 26.5, that is normal and with 91, on top of the better driveability, did spike about 1-1.5 psi less... It's almost like 91 octane for daily driving, and 93 for all-out performance including ultra-sensitive throttle response that makes driving in traffic require more attention to detail to drive smoothly... Any way you cut it, even if I didn't expect this, I like this option, so bravo Alex and Stratified!

 

[LILIKE16ST]

I’ve been driving for a number of years and I have always made it a habit to let my whatever car warm up a few minutes via normal driving before getting on it. Just a basic driving practice whether or not the car is turbo’d.

I agree with you always let the car warm up before getting into the throttle hard turbo or not. I been running their e30 flash for months now and while it may not take wot to achieve middle 20s on psi you definately have to get into it a decent amount...I don't find it hard at all to stay out of boost...I can easily stay in the negatives on the boost gauge until the car warms up it isn't that hard just basic driving know how and understanding your car and how it drives.

 

[danbfree]

I agree with you always let the car warm up before getting into the throttle hard turbo or not. I been running their e30 flash for months now and while it may not take wot to achieve middle 20s on psi you definately have to get into it a decent amount...I don't find it hard at all to stay out of boost...I can easily stay in the negatives on the boost gauge until the car warms up it isn't that hard just basic driving know how and understanding your car and how it drives.

Yeah, it's especially easy to just stay out of high boost but Stratified used to offer a 15 psi max slot for free so it's super easy to toggle between them too... now they charge $5 for that 15 psi slot so might as well do a custom limit for same price and maybe order it for 10 psi max, for those who are interested in a "warm up" slot.