Don't do this... Poor brake pads

[Sourskittle]

Waited just a couple seconds too long to change my pads

Needed to make time to do the entire setup ( stainless lines, porterfield pads, new oem rotors, motul 600 fluid ), and just waited too long...

 

[ijustworkhere]

jaaayzus, nice job, haha.

at least you have a fresh new setup! Have you used Porterfield pads before? How are they with brake dust?

 

[Sourskittle]

This is my first set of aftermarket pads. So far... Seem less bitey than stock pads. But I'm going to bleed the brakes again soon. I replaced the lines, then flushed the entire system and even back flushed the calipers with the bleeders open to get any air ( and burnt fluid out of them ). And my pedal still doesn't feel any different. I expected a vast improvement in pedal stiffness. Siestarider's car felt much better than mine when I drove his a few weeks ago.

 

[twolf]

This is my first set of aftermarket pads. So far... Seem less bitey than stock pads. But I'm going to bleed the brakes again soon. I replaced the lines, then flushed the entire system and even back flushed the calipers with the bleeders open to get any air ( and burnt fluid out of them ). And my pedal still doesn't feel any different. I expected a vast improvement in pedal stiffness. Siestarider's car felt much better than mine when I drove his a few weeks ago.

I have the same feeling, I did mine yesterday. :/ they stop fine but they don't have the "if you accidentally jab the brakes your passenger is going to hit their head on the dashboard" feeling to them that the stock pads did.

 

[Joker328]

I have the same feeling, I did mine yesterday. :/ they stop fine but they don't have the "if you accidentally jab the brakes your passenger is going to hit their head on the dashboard" feeling to them that the stock pads did.

LOL, accurate description. I've had a couple passengers be like "WTF was that about?" after routine stops at a traffic light. And I'm just like, "sometimes the car decides it wants to stop quicker than I want it to." The line between 'firm but smooth deceleration' and 'Oh god I think I have whiplash' is a fine one with stock brakes.

 

[Sam4]

I have the same feeling, I did mine yesterday. :/ they stop fine but they don't have the "if you accidentally jab the brakes your passenger is going to hit their head on the dashboard" feeling to them that the stock pads did.

Thank God, I thought it was just me......

 

[westcoaST]

I suggest using a Motive power bleeder. Also, if you allow your brake line to drain out so that your ABS module gets air in it, you will have a devil of a time getting a firm pedal. I had to go to Ford so they could cycle the module and release trapped air. I allowed air into the ABS module when I installed my BBK. Passenger side is the culprit as it is the Shortest path to the ABS control module. Cost, including fluid from Ford was $50.00. Then I changed out the fluid to Motul 600 using the Motive bleeder and the correct cap, and still had a firm pedal.

 

[SPDinNY]

This is my first set of aftermarket pads. So far... Seem less bitey than stock pads. But I'm going to bleed the brakes again soon. I replaced the lines, then flushed the entire system and even back flushed the calipers with the bleeders open to get any air ( and burnt fluid out of them ). And my pedal still doesn't feel any different. I expected a vast improvement in pedal stiffness. Siestarider's car felt much better than mine when I drove his a few weeks ago.

what pads did you go with?

 

[Sourskittle]

I went with porterfield

 

[Joszer]

This is my first set of aftermarket pads. So far... Seem less bitey than stock pads. But I'm going to bleed the brakes again soon. I replaced the lines, then flushed the entire system and even back flushed the calipers with the bleeders open to get any air ( and burnt fluid out of them ). And my pedal still doesn't feel any different. I expected a vast improvement in pedal stiffness. Siestarider's car felt much better than mine when I drove his a few weeks ago.

Raise you one!

 

[GAbOS]

Porterfield is a great pad but they only offer it in the stout RS-4. That's a tall order for daily.

 

[westcoaST]

Raise you one!

Were those pads the BP20s?

 

[Joszer]

Were those pads the BP20s?

@weatcoaST Yeah, NEVER run them at the track if you're considering pushing your car 10/10. Go with some Hawk DTC60's or Polymatrix E compunds for really aggressive track driving.

 

[westcoaST]

I have the polymatrix pads on my BBK, ordered that way from 2JR a year ago with no problems. Thanks for the info.

 

[MauiRoads]

I suggest using a Motive power bleeder. Also, if you allow your brake line to drain out so that your ABS module gets air in it, you will have a devil of a time getting a firm pedal. I had to go to Ford so they could cycle the module and release trapped air. I allowed air into the ABS module when I installed my BBK. Passenger side is the culprit as it is the Shortest path to the ABS control module. Cost, including fluid from Ford was $50.00. Then I changed out the fluid to Motul 600 using the Motive bleeder and the correct cap, and still had a firm pedal.

I know this is an old thread, but what was the "correct cap" for the Motive Bleeder? My ST is a 2017, but it looks like Ford has the same part number for all years of STs.
Motive recently told me they don't make a cap for the ST, but I could risk it on their 1108 (for some GM cars). They misquoted me the diameter of their cap as 1.8" (like the OEM cap) but theirs is actually 1.9". To get it to work at all, I had to use the very thick washer they provided, which required an excessive amount of pressure to engage the three tabs, and the cap does not "click" into place like the OEM, when the tabs are full engaged. I don't know if its related to the bad fit, but even at 10 lbs. of pressure, it started leaking from where the tube joins the cap.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[dhminer]

I know this is an old thread, but what was the "correct cap" for the Motive Bleeder? My ST is a 2017, but it looks like Ford has the same part number for all years of STs.
Motive recently told me they don't make a cap for the ST, but I could risk it on their 1108 (for some GM cars). They misquoted me the diameter of their cap as 1.8" (like the OEM cap) but theirs is actually 1.9". To get it to work at all, I had to use the very thick washer they provided, which required an excessive amount of pressure to engage the three tabs, and the cap does not "click" into place like the OEM, when the tabs are full engaged. I don't know if its related to the bad fit, but even at 10 lbs. of pressure, it started leaking from where the tube joins the cap.

Any help would be appreciated.

1108 is the correct one for our car

 

[MauiRoads]

Thanks, dhminer. Sorry to bother you for more input, but...

What pressure do you use?
Does your 1108 cap "click in" to the small detents in the cap grooves at the end of the grooves?
Did you have any other fitment issues?

My 1108 cap is so tight going on, I'm concerned about damaging the reservoir neck. I put a spacer/block between the bottom of the reservoir and the reservoir mount, so that I wasn't bending the reservoir downward when pressing the cap on. I also put a little clean brake fluid on the rubber seal and on the top of the reservoir neck, so the cap would rotate easier going on.

Maybe my 1108 cap leaked at the tubing/cap fitting because the clamp was not installed tightly enough. I'll crimp it a little more and see if that takes care of the leaking.

 

[dhminer]

Thanks, dhminer. Sorry to bother you for more input, but...

What pressure do you use?
Does your 1108 cap "click in" to the small detents in the cap grooves at the end of the grooves?
Did you have any other fitment issues?

My 1108 cap is so tight going on, I'm concerned about damaging the reservoir neck. I put a spacer/block between the bottom of the reservoir and the reservoir mount, so that I wasn't bending the reservoir downward when pressing the cap on. I also put a little clean brake fluid on the rubber seal and on the top of the reservoir neck, so the cap would rotate easier going on.

Maybe my 1108 cap leaked at the tubing/cap fitting because the clamp was not installed tightly enough. I'll crimp it a little more and see if that takes care of the leaking.

Truthfully, I have no idea. I bought the bleeder a few weeks ago but have yet to use it. @TyphoonFiST is well versed in this thing though. Maybe homie can chime in

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Thanks, dhminer. Sorry to bother you for more input, but...

What pressure do you use?
Does your 1108 cap "click in" to the small detents in the cap grooves at the end of the grooves?
Did you have any other fitment issues?

My 1108 cap is so tight going on, I'm concerned about damaging the reservoir neck. I put a spacer/block between the bottom of the reservoir and the reservoir mount, so that I wasn't bending the reservoir downward when pressing the cap on. I also put a little clean brake fluid on the rubber seal and on the top of the reservoir neck, so the cap would rotate easier going on.

Maybe my 1108 cap leaked at the tubing/cap fitting because the clamp was not installed tightly enough. I'll crimp it a little more and see if that takes care of the leaking.

The Bleeder cap doesnt "click"all i did was when i utilized mine was find the gasket that was the one that made it seal. which was the thicker of the two included in the kit. I then made sure it would seal by doing a dry run to make sure it would seal and let it sit for 10-15 min @ 15-20psi and watched the gauge to ensure it wasnt bleeding/losing pressure. I then released the dry run test pressure by just opening the top slowly. Then i filled it with 1 1/2 large can/ container of brake fluid. Its better to have to much then run out while in the middle of bleeding the system.

 

[FiestaSTdude]

The Bleeder cap doesnt "click"all i did was when i utilized mine was find the gasket that was the one that made it seal. which was the thicker of the two included in the kit. I then made sure it would seal by doing a dry run to make sure it would seal and let it sit for 10-15 min @ 15-20psi and watched the gauge to ensure it wasnt bleeding/losing pressure. I then released the dry run test pressure by just opening the top slowly. Then i filled it with 1 1/2 large can/ container of brake fluid. Its better to have to much then run out while in the middle of bleeding the system.

@dhminer I have a thread from when I did it.

https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/clutch-bleeding-procedure.29184/page-2#post-487107