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Turbosmart dual port kompact BOV - known issues?h
- Thread starter Kidders
- Start date
Thread Starter
#3
It certainly looks that way. My friend runs the same valve and his O ring doesn't look the same, it's like the pressure has been pushing under the O ring and with numerous heat cycles has started to degrade. I always felt the O ring didn't protrude enough from the body compared to the OEM valve and the profile now its been fitted is quite square.
Thread Starter
#8
The picture is the whole unit in my hand, it's the base that bolts onto the compressor housing. The O ring is not part of the moving assembly, it's meant to seal the body against the housing. All other o rings are in perfect condition. The valve was also torqued up correctly too.
Thread Starter
#10
The o ring under the piston is perfect, there is another sealing ring on the screw on cap ,again good condition. I've never seen an o ring do that before, and the best explanation I can think of is pressure blowing between the body of the valve past the o ring , enough to cause a small leakage of boost under sustained load/pressure, I always felt the o ring didn't protroude enough compared to the oem electronic valve.
Thread Starter
#12
I would say the plumb back is a good option, it's easier to set up (i.e it doesnt need any setting up at all!) and the recirc noise through the induction sounds just as good IMO.
I've checked over the valve again, and it has been fitted for 6 months, mileage is not mentioned by TS when it comes to servicing the valve. In that time, I have covered 6000 miles.
The piston has been removed, it is of brass construction and one assumes that its machined to match the internal bore of the housing, which is black anodised throughout. This tight interference fit allows it to seal. Spring length has been checked and meets the correct 72mm.
There is plenty of scuffing to the piston wall all around the circumference, which is cause for concern, and another area that could be preventing it from holding boost. Because it also vents to atmosphere, any 'blow by' of pressure around the valve will go straight out the port, and its feasible we have been losing pressure here, as well as the main O- ring on the body.
I will say what Turbosmart have to say about it. I've been more than happy with the valve noise and performance but over time, wear and tear does seem to have taken it's toll.
I've checked over the valve again, and it has been fitted for 6 months, mileage is not mentioned by TS when it comes to servicing the valve. In that time, I have covered 6000 miles.
The piston has been removed, it is of brass construction and one assumes that its machined to match the internal bore of the housing, which is black anodised throughout. This tight interference fit allows it to seal. Spring length has been checked and meets the correct 72mm.
There is plenty of scuffing to the piston wall all around the circumference, which is cause for concern, and another area that could be preventing it from holding boost. Because it also vents to atmosphere, any 'blow by' of pressure around the valve will go straight out the port, and its feasible we have been losing pressure here, as well as the main O- ring on the body.
I will say what Turbosmart have to say about it. I've been more than happy with the valve noise and performance but over time, wear and tear does seem to have taken it's toll.
Thread Starter
#13
I did some more testing this afternoon, just a simple pressure test, this was on the vacuum side of the valve so blowing compressed air up to 25psi through the take off, low and behold it starts leaking from around the piston from around 18psi, which is why my car wouldn't hold boost properly under load...Worth looking out for.
Look at the Maintenance section.......
http://www.turbosmart.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/TS-0203-1061-KT-DP-SHORTIE.pdf
The Plumb-Back doesn't appear to be serviceable, but it could have the same issues. I just ordered a Plumb-Back this week, so I guess I'll find out next summer if it wears out.
http://www.turbosmart.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/TS-0203-1061-KT-DP-SHORTIE.pdf
The Plumb-Back doesn't appear to be serviceable, but it could have the same issues. I just ordered a Plumb-Back this week, so I guess I'll find out next summer if it wears out.
Thread Starter
#15
Plumb back should be fine, the piston wont be exposed like it is on the dual port, open to the elements. Personally I don't think its practical to remove the valve every couple of months, strip it down, lubricate it , fit new o rings and refit. Plumb back should be fit and forget, hold higher boost and respond quicker than the stock item.
I have the dual port and servicing it every 6 months is no issue for me as I'll do it every other oil change. I have a couple extra sets of o rings for it as well as the recommended lube to service it. I'm the type who likes to tinker so it's right up my alley, I guess, lol. Adjusting it after each service should be fine as well as I will mark it and fine tune it from there. Fortunately for mine, the best setting for it is almost the loosest setting for it.
Thread Starter
#17
Pleased its all ok for you. I'm gutted it ended up being the cause of my boost issue as I loved the sound and when it was first fitted, its definitely held the boost better top end compared to the OEM.
Our UK cars are much more sensitive to the spring tension as we run MAF as well as MAP. I had to set the spring to its hardest setting to prevent it going into limp mode.
Our UK cars are much more sensitive to the spring tension as we run MAF as well as MAP. I had to set the spring to its hardest setting to prevent it going into limp mode.
Yes I know that the UK cars run a MAF setup and are more sensitive. I've been around for quite a while ;-). I was simply sharing my experience....also even on the US vehicles, the dual port isn't everyone's cup of tea. If I was running a UK FiST, I personally wouldn't even bother with any vent to atmosphere and just simply run a full recirculating valve.
Thread Starter
#19
I wasn't being condescending 
Just expanding on why the valve was harder to set up. I liked this noise tbh, it went well with the changed harmonics of the hybrid and gave it some character. Now i'm back to OEM valve its a lot quieter on boost, it doesn't have a high pitched howl to it.
Just expanding on why the valve was harder to set up. I liked this noise tbh, it went well with the changed harmonics of the hybrid and gave it some character. Now i'm back to OEM valve its a lot quieter on boost, it doesn't have a high pitched howl to it.Similar threads
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