Mishimoto Oil Cooler testing at Buttonwillow

[juliog]

A few data points from my first event after installing the Mishimoto Oil Cooler:

There was quite a bit of traffic in the first session of the day, and in the second I could only manage a 2:11.05 due to massive brake fade. If I hadn’t boiled the fluid I’m confident I could have ran under 2:10 later in the day.

Mods

SPC front camber bolts
Mishimoto Oil Cooler
Mishimoto Catch Can
Distilled water + Redline Water Wetter
Cobb OTS Stage 1 map (91 octane)
Everything else stock, including tires, brake pads and brake fluid after 9000 miles


Next: brake fluid, steel brake lines and LSD (looking at Wavetrac and Quaife). Also Boomba brake ducts whenever they are released.

 

[JasonHaven]

Awesome, thanks for the data

 

[koozy]

Sweet, peak temps are close to what I recorded on a 1 hour long Angeles Crest run. I'll add my data below to compile. Hopefully others with the oil cooler can add their data. I don't think I'll be needing a radiator for my needs, the oil cooler has shown to have a significant effect on coolant temps by removing the OE oil cooler setup thus taking the load off of the radiator.

Normal driving conditions with oil cooler on the street and highway temperature range.
OIL: 185 ~ 210 deg F.
COOLANT: 190 ~ 197 deg F.

Peak temps prior to oil cooler:
OIL: 246 deg F.
COOLANT: 229 deg F.

Peak temps after oil cooler installation:
OIL: 225 deg F.
COOLANT: 205 deg F.

Temp reduction:
OIL: -21 deg F.
COOLANT: -24 deg F.

 

[Chuckable]

So do you guys with the oil cooler think that the upgraded radiator is still necessary for track or hard street driving?

 

[koozy]

So do you guys with the oil cooler think that the upgraded radiator is still necessary for track or hard street driving?

I really don't think so with peak coolant temps now hovering around 205-210deg F with the OE coolant mix. I'd recommend the oil cooler first before the radiator. I think many will find that's all they'll need to curb high coolant temps. Just look at juliog who had a -50deg F. reduction in coolant temps alone, that's a significant and noticeable difference. Granted he went from a stock OE tune to a Cobb OTS tune and I was on the same tune for my analysis and saw -24deg F. Still significant. The important thing is the coolant temp is now cooler and in a safer operating range with the air-air oil cooler, without the OE oil cooler still in place.

 

[Siestarider]

Thanks Juliog and Koozy for the comparison data. Sheds real light on the heat exchange question.

I am thinking of testing before and after bonnet vents, but need some pressure differential data first so the vents go in the right places. Seems to me if vents are functional, they would be mostly additive to oil cooler or larger radiator mods.

I have the "before" testing done for an air dam 1" above pavement, test dam mounted and ready to go, but laid up unable to drive for a few days. Will post when data are complete.

 

[Chuckable]

Thanks to all those who are contributing!
Not to throw a wrench into the discussion, but since oil temp is inferred, and given that the Mishimoto oil cooler removes the factory oil cooler, do you all think that the oil temps are still accurate?

 

[koozy]

Thanks to all those who are contributing!
Not to throw a wrench into the discussion, but since oil temp is inferred, and given that the Mishimoto oil cooler removes the factory oil cooler, do you all think that the oil temps are still accurate?

yes the oil temp is inferred and from what I can tell is accurate for what it is, cause the numbers make sense. it'd be nice to have a true oil temp sensor, but I don't care that much to go through the trouble, the reduction in coolant temps which does have a sensor suffices for me.

 

[Chuckable]

yes the oil temp is inferred and from what I can tell is accurate for what it is, cause the numbers make sense. it'd be nice to have a true oil temp sensor, but I don't care that much to go through the trouble, the reduction in coolant temps which does have a sensor suffices for me.

Fair enough. Good to hear real world feedback of Mishimoto's oil cooler. The radiator was on my list, but based on your feedback I may just stay with the oil cooler.

 

[Brick]

Thanks [MENTION=3973]juliog[/MENTION] and [MENTION=235]koozy[/MENTION] for posting up your data!

 

[koozy]

Thanks [MENTION=3973]juliog[/MENTION] and [MENTION=235]koozy[/MENTION] for posting up your data!

No prob, I was motivated after we went on a run through Angeles Crest and Lake Hughes back this past summer with the group. Here's a shot of my peak temps from that day with ambient temps around ~102deg F.

 

[RAAMaudio]

How much power you are making and the track, temp, etc....will determine whether or not you need more radiator even if you have done an oil cooler upgrade. I know this from experience over a year ago, Cyborg making around 220WHP, 50-70 temp air temp during each day, when warmer out I was not overheating but getting very close. warm enough to take note of after the 3rd or 4th session.

I had the first oil cooler mod I know of and a very good Setrab in direct air flow, opened up grill, modified bumper beam for more direct flow and ducting as well as sealing up all I could to maximize air flow through the coolers.

After that weekend I spent considerable time and effort doing a DIY fit of a bigger radiator for good reason, I knew I would have a problem when it got hotter or adding more power, either one would of demanded more cooling.

My advice, many decades of building street/track and some full race cars, hold off as long as you can but have the budget and plan to install a bigger radiator as soon as one that fits your budget, i.e. Mishimoto or see if 2-JR can get you one sooner.

Nothing to promote but my experience and wanting to help when I can

Rick

 

[mishimoto1]

Thanks to all those who are contributing!
Not to throw a wrench into the discussion, but since oil temp is inferred, and given that the Mishimoto oil cooler removes the factory oil cooler, do you all think that the oil temps are still accurate?

Thanks [MENTION=3973]juliog[/MENTION] and [MENTION=235]koozy[/MENTION] for posting up your data!

+1 thank you guys for providing data and feedback with our oil cooler setup. Great to hear it is providing an effective drop in temperature.

Chuck: Correct, the factory liquid-to-liquid heat exchanger is removed when installing our oil cooler. For install instructions, check out this link: https://youtu.be/pSvEwQugFdA

How much power you are making and the track, temp, etc....will determine whether or not you need more radiator even if you have done an oil cooler upgrade. I know this from experience over a year ago, Cyborg making around 220WHP, 50-70 temp air temp during each day, when warmer out I was not overheating but getting very close. warm enough to take note of after the 3rd or 4th session.

I had the first oil cooler mod I know of and a very good Setrab in direct air flow, opened up grill, modified bumper beam for more direct flow and ducting as well as sealing up all I could to maximize air flow through the coolers.

After that weekend I spent considerable time and effort doing a DIY fit of a bigger radiator for good reason, I knew I would have a problem when it got hotter or adding more power, either one would of demanded more cooling.

My advice, many decades of building street/track and some full race cars, hold off as long as you can but have the budget and plan to install a bigger radiator as soon as one that fits your budget, i.e. Mishimoto or see if 2-JR can get you one sooner.

Nothing to promote but my experience and wanting to help when I can

Rick

Good point! Most will find that the oil cooler is very effective in reducing temperatures. That being said, some folks are still seeing high coolant temperatures, necessitating an option for a more efficient radiator. Our existing prototype radiator is quite massive and should support vehicles pushing greater power and hitting the track on a frequent basis.

Thanks again guys!
-John

 

[RAAMaudio]

The oil cooler is a great upgrade for sure and absolutely needed if one is keeping the tiny stock radiator as it takes the load off of it which helps a great deal. I agree than some, perhaps many, will only need the oil cooler, some on the other hand may want to just get the radiator instead which may suite their needs just fine, time will tell

 

[juliog]

After changing oil and observing old oil was a couple quarts short, I realized I had an oil leak somewhere.

Got under the car, saw oil over the area around sandwich plate. ,Retorqued all fittings, cleaned the area, drove a bit, and now it's clear that the sandwich plate is leaking from the bottom, between block and plate.

I will remove and reinstall sandwich plate tomorrow -_- .

 

[Perfblue15]

After changing oil and observing old oil was a couple quarts short, I realized I had an oil leak somewhere.

Got under the car, saw oil over the area around sandwich plate. ,Retorqued all fittings, cleaned the area, drove a bit, and now it's clear that the sandwich plate is leaking from the bottom.

I will remove and reinstall sandwich plate tomorrow -_- .

Haha, I'm so paranoid of my oil cooler leaking. I check the lines and sandwich plate weekly. My biggest fear is one of the lines coming loose and pumping all my oil out.

 

[Sirsinclair]

After changing oil and observing old oil was a couple quarts short, I realized I had an oil leak somewhere.

Got under the car, saw oil over the area around sandwich plate. ,Retorqued all fittings, cleaned the area, drove a bit, and now it's clear that the sandwich plate is leaking from the bottom, between block and plate.

I will remove and reinstall sandwich plate tomorrow -_- .

I've read numerous different car forums all talking about how poorly made their sandwich plates are.

I was going to order one of their kits before I came across these issues. Not worth blowing a motor.

 

[Chuckable]

[MENTION=1848]mishimoto[/MENTION], care to comment on the sandwich plate construction?

 

[Chuckable]

When we installed the oil cooler we changed the oil the next week just as a precaution, and found the center bolt to be slightly loose even though it was properly torqued at installation. Probably a good idea to double check it at every oil change.

 

[juliog]

Removed oil filter, sandwich plate and AN fittings, put everything back together making sure it was all tight. After 60 seconds of idling, oil started leaking again from between plate and engine block:

I'll contact Mishimito for advice next week. Bummed I won't be able to track the car tomorrow, was looking forward to testing a bunch of new stuff (LSD, new pads, rotors, Boomba deflectors...) . Guess I'll bring out the S2000