TUNE+ Upgraded Wastegate Actuator (Surge Cure)

[jayrod1980]

Never mind my stupidity. I felt around and the bolt hole is lower than the hole I was trying to line up. It just took muscling down the driver side of the heat shield. Bolt is in finally but I notice it's not completely snugged against the manifold. At least it's now under the "ledge" of the engine. Should do its job better now right?

 

[OCDFist]

I stripped the upper/driver's side bolt hole, tapped it to the next size (M10x1.5 I think), and put a different bolt in there than stock. If you had the shield out, I'd cut a little off the passenger side so it fit better. I made the shield touch or almost touch the manifold so as much heat would stay down below it. I skipped the lower right side bolt, too many curse words involved.

 

[Rejeme]

It should sit fairly flush right above the exhaust manifold. The weird grommets that are on the heat shield have a lot of movement in them. Best advice I can give is to attach whatever bolts you can very loosely and really shift the shield around, especially side to side, lining the bolts and holes up. It's difficult the first few times you do it, I have the scars to prove it.

 

[Ext569]

Like [MENTION=1195]Rejeme[/MENTION] said, it should fit snug atop the manifold. And its also good advice to attach the bolts one at a time without tightening down so the shield is loose and has play. This will help in aligning any other bolts. Then tightening down all.

I was only able to get 3 out of the 4; the top 2 and the bottom one by the DP.

So far the outcome of the [MENTION=3805]Tune+[/MENTION] tuning outweighs the trouble of getting the actuator installed. There is 0 surge and the power delivery is extremely linear and smooth.

 

[kjohn09e]

I curse the day I ever touched this heat shield. I bought a new one because I couldn't get the drivers side bolt in. Well can't with the new one either. Not only was a nightmare trying to get on and off, but it seems somehow I have stripped the thread on the bolt hole! With that side not on, the bolt doesn't grab at all. What to do now? I notice that even with that bolt in the shield doesn't hold airtight to the manifold anyway.

For those of you that have done this mod or screwed with the heat shield, does it sit flush against the manifold? I'm really concerned about heat venting up into the rubber and wires at the top of the engine and the intake since its plastic at that point.

Nothing like wasting an entire night trying to fix something and it turning out to be something else.

I just took one of the coolant lines off the turbo and saved myself a ton of frustration, easier to replace a pint of coolant lol.

 

[westcoaST]

That's what I plan on doing. I even brought a replacement coolant line with the copper crush washers for $17.00, just in case. I also bent the heck out of the heat shield when I installed my Catted down pipe, so I ordered a replacement.

 

[WeTheNorth]

When's the next run?

 

[Kip2MyLou]

When's the next run?

Selling mine. PM incoming

 

[jayrod1980]

Let me give anyone doing this mod a bit of advice from a noob-idiot. I'm a total novice at this mechanical stuff. Follow the advice of smarter minds here and finagle the heat shield to do the install rather than take it off. It will never go back on right again.

I advise you take off the 10mm bolt holding the coolant line on the passenger side, and pry it back a couple inches (it can take it!). Then undo the 8mm bolt below it, the bolt below that and toward the passenger sheet metal side, and the top passenger side 8mm bolt. Jack up your car and get under that bad boy and take off the two 10mm bolts securing the O2 sensor lines on the downpipe heat shield. That will let you get the lowest heat shield bolt (right under the downpipe heat shield. Use one of those 8mm racheting double sided crescent wrenches from Home Depot. Remember I'm a noob, but it's the one with the black ratcheting closed end and an open crescent on the other. It's like 8 bucks.

This will allow you to pry back the top sides of the heat shield to get to the waste gate. Take the advice of others that did it this way and do one side at a time. Doing this allows you mangle the heat shield less and gives you more hope of lining up the bolt holes again and less chance of stripping the threads inside the manifold. I've attempted to reattach mine perfectly after mangling it, and even purchased a new heat shield, and in the end I got 3 bolts installed again in the original shield. My new one just sits at the moment and I have lots of scars and over 18 hours of time devoted to trying to get my heat shield back on to the condition it was. Learn from idiots like me. Don't go at it without reading through this thread and learn from the mistakes people like me have made. The mod is definitely worth it by the way! Surge is gone... But the spring is stiffer so you have to be a little more deliberate with the gas pedal to get your boost.

 

[westcoaST]

Or you can remove the water coolant line and pull the heat shield off in a few minutes.

 

[Joszer]

Did everyone use the wastegate pre-load nut retainer clip? The nuts supplied with the tune+ wastegate aren't as wide as the stock nuts so the clip doesn't hold them in place.

I reused the stock nuts and clip

 

[staceyq]

TUNE+ IWG for sale - brand new in box.

SORRY SOLD.

Folks - I purchased one of these units from Adam @ Tune+ and have since changed gears [no pun intended] wrt my mods etc. I am selling for the same cost + shipping from Canada. Assume $145US for the unit and approx. $40US for shipping. Let me know if you are interested through this thread / forum or via email @ squartermaine@gmail.com. Payment can be made through Paypal and once received, I will ship within 1-2 days and provide the courier tracking number. Thanks for your interest.

 

[wrongwheeldrive]

Never mind my stupidity. I felt around and the bolt hole is lower than the hole I was trying to line up. It just took muscling down the driver side of the heat shield. Bolt is in finally but I notice it's not completely snugged against the manifold. At least it's now under the "ledge" of the engine. Should do its job better now right?

I did the same thing! It took me until the second day to figure it out lol!

 

[jayrod1980]

I did the same thing! It took me until the second day to figure it out lol!

Since I figured out about the ledge, I'm tempted to try to reinstall the new one I purchased, but don't want to waste another few hours squirming under and over the car just to get the shield sealed tight. No amount of maneuvering will get the bolts to snug, even if the new one will line up tight along the top edges of the shield. That's my only issue now... From bending the shield the top lip doesn't seal up to the manifold, though the gap is really really small (both top screws are in).

I'm really OCD so I sit and think how much my intake is soaking up, but while on boost, the volume of air that's passing through my DHM race IC cools charge temps to damn near ambient. I don't think I should worry too much about a couple degrees of heat while the engine is running vacuum.

 

[Aerofusical]

Got me one of these from frankiefiesta, currently running full Pumaspeed X-37 Hybrid setup and the difference this actuator made is phenomenal, unreal how much it has changed the car!! Know they sold out for now but would very highly recommend, and urge you to pre-order as soon as there is available!!

 

[TurboTinCan]

EDIT: Nevermind, I found one.....can't wait to install and get a re-tune!

If anyone who owns one of these doesn't want to tackle the installation or whatever, PM me if you want to sell yours!

 

[myfiSTurface]

is this something you can install and not need a tune? I have cobb OTS software.

 

[SuperchargedTundra]

needs a tune

 

[boombots]

needs a tune

I'd like to hear Adam chime in. It seems a tune helps, but may not be required? I have bad boost surge on shifts.

 

[Aerofusical]

Would also like to understand why tune is required/diff it makes. Running hybrid and didn't need to change map when I put the new actuator in. Car is EU spec though so not sure if it's cause of different ecu?