Best intake available - Dyno proven?

[SuperchargedTundra]

Hey guys-

Did a search and didn't find a clear answer. Is there a best performer available regardless of cost?

 

[BronxBomber]

I believe your best options power wise will be 2j racing cold air, CP-e air intake and Cobb. All should be tuned to achieve max results, but you're not gonna get a ton of power from any of them. 2j Racing is mounted by the cowl and is pretty loud.

 

[SuperchargedTundra]

It will be part of the parts collection going to stage 3 so it will be tuned. Just looking for the BEST option. I'm not sure if I would want to hear the 2j one driving everyday...its def on the louder side.

 

[Cesso]

I know MAP and Mishimoto are currently devoloping intakes but they have not been finalized yet. The 2J is going to be the most effective but also the hardest to live with. The CP-E looks the nicest and performs just as good as the Cobb, but the Cobb is more understated and stealthy. The Mountune is probably quite functional as well, but you will pay a premium for it. Any open element one is louder but performs worse than the stock air box.

 

[BronxBomber]

There's a thread on the cp-e intake showing dyno before and after.

 

[SuperchargedTundra]

There's a thread on the cp-e intake showing dyno before and after.

Just got done reading it...looks like that may be the one to go. Anyone have first hand experience with the CP-E?

 

[pelotonracer2]

I know MAP and Mishimoto are currently devoloping intakes but they have not been finalized yet. The 2J is going to be the most effective but also the hardest to live with. The CP-E looks the nicest and performs just as good as the Cobb, but the Cobb is more understated and stealthy. The Mountune is probably quite functional as well, but you will pay a premium for it. Any open element one is louder but performs worse than the stock air box.

Not true, especially with a better intercooler.

 

[GAbOS]

Not true, especially with a better intercooler.

You're just saying that because you own a HAI.

 

[2006ser]

Injen intake with extension for the win

 

[dyn085]

Lol@Injen

 

[mercdank]

Wait for the ram air snorkel from Velossa Tech.

 

[dyn085]

Wait for the ram air snorkel from Velossa Tech.

While I'm curious to see what does/doesn't occur with that, it is pretty clear that they didn't initially realize that the FiST doesn't have the same snorkel setup that the FoST does. What is a simple three-pin setup on the FoST will require modifications and additional parts for the FiST. I would at least anticipate it costing more despite marginal (if any) improvements.

 

[mercdank]

Thanks for the info, I wasn't aware of the differences as much as you are. I volunteered to be the guinea pig for Velossa Tech for this, so we'll see in the near future hopefully how it turns out.

 

[BlueBomber]

After a lot of experimentation the BEST intake is:
>Intake Scoop Mod (FREE)
>Intake Arm/Tube (whatever kind you want, Injen, Cobb, Mountune)
>Stock Upper Airbox
>Modified Lower Airbox or mountune Lower Airbox

I have modified my Injen intake and sawed off the end and used a coupler to mate it directly to the stock upper airbox and just plugged up the original MAF opening. The car has never felt stronger. It's amazing.

The best intake is a combination of things, the intake snorkel/scoop mod being the most important to getting intake air temps down.
The 2J intake is the next best thing but as others have said it's not as easy to live with.

Brand is not as important as design.

Not sure about how the Mishimoto and MAP ones will perform relative but honestly without a proper Magazine style Intake Shootout on the same car it is IMPOSSIBLE to concretely say for sure what is best, and everything I've stated above is simply personal opinion and experience.

 

[mishimoto1]

Hi There!
The testing results from our full intake are up HERE if you would like to check them out for yourself. Let us know if you have any questions on this we would be happy to help.
Thanks!
-Sara

 

[SuperchargedTundra]

After a lot of experimentation the BEST intake is:
>Intake Scoop Mod (FREE)
>Intake Arm/Tube (whatever kind you want, Injen, Cobb, Mountune)
>Stock Upper Airbox
>Modified Lower Airbox or mountune Lower Airbox

I have modified my Injen intake and sawed off the end and used a coupler to mate it directly to the stock upper airbox and just plugged up the original MAF opening. The car has never felt stronger. It's amazing.

The best intake is a combination of things, the intake snorkel/scoop mod being the most important to getting intake air temps down.
The 2J intake is the next best thing but as others have said it's not as easy to live with.

Brand is not as important as design.

Not sure about how the Mishimoto and MAP ones will perform relative but honestly without a proper Magazine style Intake Shootout on the same car it is IMPOSSIBLE to concretely say for sure what is best, and everything I've stated above is simply personal opinion and experience.

Lots of info! Thanks for taking the time to post.

 

[pelotonracer2]

You're just saying that because you own a HAI.

Heh. No, I say that because I understand how increasing intercooler effiency (over stock) reduces charge temps on a forced induction vehicle, even if that air is sourced from under the hood, opposed to the anemic effect of adding additional piping (ie: length) to make an intake a true CAI. Sure you can maybe reduce intake air temps slightly, but any gain you might get will most likely be offset by box materials and the added length of piping. That's why no intake to date TESTED INDEPENDENTLY, has shown any real world gains but adding a more efficient intercooler can and does. I can see how the 2j intake could make a bit more power (because it is MUCH shorter, more of a RAI than a CAI, working on cowl induction principles). The biggest factor is that an engine is just an air pump and in the FiST's case, restricted by it's small-ish turbo. How to make more power = getting more air in (intake side), processed (combustion) and getting that spent air and gasses out (exhaust side). If the exhaust side is a restriction, little to no gains can or will be made on the intake side (and vise versa).

With that said, my intake charge temps are 3-5 degrees warmer than ambient on a 75 degree day. Air intake temp is 83-85 degrees moving. Even at full boost running through several gears, I never see more than 3-5 degree difference as long as I am moving. That ain't exactly "hot" LMAO.

Yes, there's a bit more heatsoak on hot days, but that lasts approximately 3-4 seconds after I start moving and temps come down VERY quickly (compared to the stock IC).

 

[GAbOS]

Heh. No, I say that because I understand how increasing intercooler effiency (over stock) reduces charge temps on a forced induction vehicle, even if that air is sourced from under the hood, opposed to the anemic effect of adding additional piping (ie: length) to make an intake a true CAI. Sure you can maybe reduce intake air temps slightly, but any gain you might get will most likely be offset by box materials and the added length of piping. That's why no intake to date TESTED INDEPENDENTLY, has shown any real world gains but adding a more efficient intercooler can and does. I can see how the 2j intake could make a bit more power (because it is MUCH shorter, more of a RAI than a CAI, working on cowl induction principles). The biggest factor is that an engine is just an air pump and in the FiST's case, restricted by it's small-ish turbo. How to make more power = getting more air in (intake side), processed (combustion) and getting that spent air and gasses out (exhaust side). If the exhaust side is a restriction, little to no gains can or will be made on the intake side (and vise versa).

With that said, my intake charge temps are 3-5 degrees warmer than ambient on a 75 degree day. Air intake temp is 83-85 degrees moving. Even at full boost running through several gears, I never see more than 3-5 degree difference as long as I am moving. That ain't exactly "hot" LMAO.

Yes, there's a bit more heatsoak on hot days, but that lasts approximately 3-4 seconds after I start moving and temps come down VERY quickly (compared to the stock IC).

My point is very simple.

Think of it like a power:weight ratio number. The cooler the air going in,the cooler air coming out. Any combo you use!

Your worst scenarios air-air is.. Listen closely.

1. The ability of the IC to convert ambient temps to lower temps.

If you increase the temps to the IC, the range of it's cooling ability is decreased. It's basic heat transfer. The blow page works as a primer in most applications, even out side of the automotive industry (Overclocking CPU's w/o water).

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_transfer#Radiation

 

[yackyz]

Back to OP, I installed this about 5 days ago, system is very comparable to stock i.e fitment, stock fresh air duct. The cheapest system out there, great sound, guaranteed HP (k&n claim), and I noticed some seat of pants gain. I paid 200$ so I couldn't pass it up.

 

[Etyrnus]

Back to OP, I installed this about 5 days ago, system is very comparable to stock i.e fitment, stock fresh air duct. The cheapest system out there, great sound, guaranteed HP (k&n claim), and I noticed some seat of pants gain. I paid 200$ so I couldn't pass it up.

Curious why they did it in 2nd.