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What did you do to your Fiesta ST today ?
Do you think old Biffo did the work himself?. Its not the type of job to knock over on a hot Sunday afternoon, lol.
Risk is correct, the front crash bar is different. Don't be jealous but it bolts on. I think it may sit closer to the AC condenser just from looking at Joes 2JR IC where I get a good view of the US Fiesta crash bar. I was thinking of modify it for more air flow to the Rad but it bolts to the chassis rails and supports the Rad, AC core and all the stuff that goes with it, maybe later it I get really keen.
That huge Airtec IC is about $1000 bucks plus freight for me, totally out of the question.
The Mishimoto is a good fit and value for money, some good reviews about to so I'm happy with it.
Cheers.
Risk is correct, the front crash bar is different. Don't be jealous but it bolts on. I think it may sit closer to the AC condenser just from looking at Joes 2JR IC where I get a good view of the US Fiesta crash bar. I was thinking of modify it for more air flow to the Rad but it bolts to the chassis rails and supports the Rad, AC core and all the stuff that goes with it, maybe later it I get really keen.
That huge Airtec IC is about $1000 bucks plus freight for me, totally out of the question.
The Mishimoto is a good fit and value for money, some good reviews about to so I'm happy with it.
Cheers.
Bargain price envyist.
As for installation of the IC it turned out to be a good fit for me. Bear in mind that my Euro ST runs a different front crash bar.
In regards to installation advice, preparation is the key for a smooth job so have all the extra bits you need. Nothing worse than running to the Auto shop 3 time in one day.
Have a plan on how you will mount the IC itself. Brackets, bolts, welding?.
Before I began disassemble I took some measurements.
Inner edges of the front bumper to the face of the OEM intercooler. The bumper is curved so there is less clearance at the outer edges.
I had the vehicle sitting on stands when I did the job. Before I remove the bumper I measure from the lowest position on the bumper to ground. This gave me a Idea of where the Mishi IC was sitting in relation to the bumper lower edge when deciding on its height position.
Before removing the OEM IC I measured how far it was sitting forward of the front face of the cash bar. When I mount the Mishi IC, I knew how far I could position it forward before it would touch the bumper.
The only other bit really was the 90 degree piping, cutting it to length once the Mishi IC was mounted and getting beads rolled on the edges so the hoses don't blow off.
The other thing need addressing is the short front undertray that cannot be refitted. Its in two parts. The front horizontal section and the rear curved vertical strap that hangs down under the engine. Once you remove the front section, this vertical strap still bolts to the inner guards but now has no support in the centre and flops about.
Going to have a look today on sorting this out, shouldn't be to difficult to make a support of some kind.
Cheers
As for installation of the IC it turned out to be a good fit for me. Bear in mind that my Euro ST runs a different front crash bar.
In regards to installation advice, preparation is the key for a smooth job so have all the extra bits you need. Nothing worse than running to the Auto shop 3 time in one day.
Have a plan on how you will mount the IC itself. Brackets, bolts, welding?.
Before I began disassemble I took some measurements.
Inner edges of the front bumper to the face of the OEM intercooler. The bumper is curved so there is less clearance at the outer edges.
I had the vehicle sitting on stands when I did the job. Before I remove the bumper I measure from the lowest position on the bumper to ground. This gave me a Idea of where the Mishi IC was sitting in relation to the bumper lower edge when deciding on its height position.
Before removing the OEM IC I measured how far it was sitting forward of the front face of the cash bar. When I mount the Mishi IC, I knew how far I could position it forward before it would touch the bumper.
The only other bit really was the 90 degree piping, cutting it to length once the Mishi IC was mounted and getting beads rolled on the edges so the hoses don't blow off.
The other thing need addressing is the short front undertray that cannot be refitted. Its in two parts. The front horizontal section and the rear curved vertical strap that hangs down under the engine. Once you remove the front section, this vertical strap still bolts to the inner guards but now has no support in the centre and flops about.
Going to have a look today on sorting this out, shouldn't be to difficult to make a support of some kind.
Cheers
I am probably going to build a new undertray but make it go way back under the engine and then bolt the stock air dam to it.
The Mishimoto is the value radiator for those of us wanting to DIY and not worried about cutting things to fit, fab work, etc...for others it is not the right choice.
I had a different IC that was a pretty easy fit but decided to go bigger so sold it then saw the Mishimoto when another guy had posted pics installed, I had missed it on their site after a ton of searching so decided to get one and just make it work. I had other ideas on a bigger one but know they make great radiators so had to make great IC's. I have put their radiators on $100k builds and always worked perfect and lasted.
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What I did today, doing actually...installing PowerFlex suspension bushings, using them everywhere...and then will start setting up the BC race spec coilovers by drilling new strut tower holes to add more camber. I am adding castor with the PF rear front control arm bushings as well.
Tomorrow I will probably drop the transaxle to start the LSD install.
The Mishimoto is the value radiator for those of us wanting to DIY and not worried about cutting things to fit, fab work, etc...for others it is not the right choice.
I had a different IC that was a pretty easy fit but decided to go bigger so sold it then saw the Mishimoto when another guy had posted pics installed, I had missed it on their site after a ton of searching so decided to get one and just make it work. I had other ideas on a bigger one but know they make great radiators so had to make great IC's. I have put their radiators on $100k builds and always worked perfect and lasted.
----------
What I did today, doing actually...installing PowerFlex suspension bushings, using them everywhere...and then will start setting up the BC race spec coilovers by drilling new strut tower holes to add more camber. I am adding castor with the PF rear front control arm bushings as well.
Tomorrow I will probably drop the transaxle to start the LSD install.
Added my rear bumper cargo area protector, and spent quite some time examining the factory air box.
After having removed it from the car which in itself was surprisingly easy, just unclip the maf, loosen the single clamp at the maf elbow with a flat head screw driver, unclip the factory air duct on top of the radiator with a flat screw driver.
Move things around and pull up then rotate to the right a little to gain clearance and out comes the whole shebang.
Shocking to me how deep the box extends into the engine bay. For those interested in a little more air I would seriously just nip/cut off the bottom and run any of the hi flow drop in filters. As the bottom is almost flush with the cold side ic outlet. And since hot air rises it should be an easy way to free up some hp, from a fairly cold intake source.
After lots of measuring estimating and hours searching on eBay and at my local AutoZone store. I have decided to attempt to piece together my own custom cai. With a few parts lying around it should be under $120 total investment.
It will feature 3" flat black piping, retain the factory maf&vacuum attachments, sealed conical filter feed by the stock air inlet, factory style bracket to keep any movement down. And best of all will be easily reversible to back to stock within 20-30mins.
I'll probably start a build thread shortly to document everything I have done and plan to do. Since the mishimoto j-line black intercooler is already enroute as well as some of the cai parts.
After having removed it from the car which in itself was surprisingly easy, just unclip the maf, loosen the single clamp at the maf elbow with a flat head screw driver, unclip the factory air duct on top of the radiator with a flat screw driver.
Move things around and pull up then rotate to the right a little to gain clearance and out comes the whole shebang.
Shocking to me how deep the box extends into the engine bay. For those interested in a little more air I would seriously just nip/cut off the bottom and run any of the hi flow drop in filters. As the bottom is almost flush with the cold side ic outlet. And since hot air rises it should be an easy way to free up some hp, from a fairly cold intake source.
After lots of measuring estimating and hours searching on eBay and at my local AutoZone store. I have decided to attempt to piece together my own custom cai. With a few parts lying around it should be under $120 total investment.
It will feature 3" flat black piping, retain the factory maf&vacuum attachments, sealed conical filter feed by the stock air inlet, factory style bracket to keep any movement down. And best of all will be easily reversible to back to stock within 20-30mins.
I'll probably start a build thread shortly to document everything I have done and plan to do. Since the mishimoto j-line black intercooler is already enroute as well as some of the cai parts.
Were you talking about my wheels?
These are the exact ones I ordered: http://www.amazon.com/Motegi-17x7-5...?ie=UTF8&qid=1404993743&sr=8-3&keywords=MR125
4.25" is the bolt circle size which is the same as 108mm. The 4.5" ones won't fit our cars.
I was even able to get real aluminum hubcentric rings (not plastic so they won't melt) from Amazon as well:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KSKOGVQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These are the exact ones I ordered: http://www.amazon.com/Motegi-17x7-5...?ie=UTF8&qid=1404993743&sr=8-3&keywords=MR125
4.25" is the bolt circle size which is the same as 108mm. The 4.5" ones won't fit our cars.
I was even able to get real aluminum hubcentric rings (not plastic so they won't melt) from Amazon as well:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KSKOGVQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Coming from a Motegi MR119 owner do yourself a favor and apply a coat or two of good carnuba wax to the wheels before you put them on the vehicle. The rims are darn near impossible to keep clean and the grime sticks to the matte finish like crazy. I'm paying for it now. I've been lazy but one weekend I'll have to scrub the rims like crazy and do the same. In the mean time I'm about to apply the ArmorAll Wheel Protectant.
I also picked picked up the cargo area protector today and I can honestly say to skip it. The quality isn't near as good as the all weather ST floor mats that Ford sells. If you decide to get one look at Weather Tech.
Not in my case. Same brand, same finish and the brake dust turns the wheels brown. I thought the brake dust would subside but it hasn't slowed up. Been an uphill battle to keep mine clean.
I also picked picked up the cargo area protector today and I can honestly say to skip it. The quality isn't near as good as the all weather ST floor mats that Ford sells. If you decide to get one look at Weather Tech.
Not in my case. Same brand, same finish and the brake dust turns the wheels brown. I thought the brake dust would subside but it hasn't slowed up. Been an uphill battle to keep mine clean.
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