Don't Let Oil Temps Stop The Fiesta! Mishimoto Oil Cooler R&D!

[dyn085]

Thanks for the input guys. I will be the first to admit I don't know a whole lot about exactly how well this would work, but I was just trying to think of a way to try to help the maintain normal coolant temperatures when using the Mishimoto oil cooler since it blocks some airflow to the radiator. It is likely that coolant temperature increases with the Mishi oil cooler will be greater when running a stock tune as compared to a stage 1+ tune that has adjustments to the duty cycle. I don't expect coolant temperatures to rise dramatically with the Mishi oil cooler, and it would be even nicer to know that any changes in the rate at which the coolant temperature increases can be compensated for by adjusting duty cycle and temperature activation programming.

In other words, I am trying to ascertain: Do you think that the decrease in airflow to the radiator can be offset by reprogramming of the cooling fan settings?
My goal isn't so much to increase performance, as it is to maintain efficiency, which I am hoping we can accomplish.

While there is a relationship between coolant and oil temperatures, oil is generally more affected by water as opposed to the opposite due to how much more quickly the water can shed heat. Not that an oil cooler won't help, I just see it as a hardware change to follow coolant hardware changes that didn't do the job. Basically, this is the upgrade path that I would choose, in order of severity/need-

-Coolant changed to full-water plus Water Wetter
-Radiator changed
-Oil Cooler added

At some point in time your cooling capability will meet your needs and you should stop upgrades because too much cooling leads to a separate set of issues. You should datalog some before/after driving and post your results in the future because we don't have much information in the community yet.

 

[RAAMaudio]

One more thing to consider about a thermostat for the oil cooler, it will heat up the oil faster which is always important even in a hot climate. The only gain not using the thermostat would give is if it allowed a bit more flow. I always used one no matter where I have lived.

I also installed an oil cooler before I upgraded the radiator as no radiator was available at the time but I also notched the bumper beam and opened up the grill as well as molded ABS sheet to seal air flow to all the coolers and opened up the radiator support behind the IC which is pretty easy and effective as well.

With my mods including the Cyborg turbo I ran at the time I had zero heating issues going all out on two track days in a row but the air temps were in the 70's and low humidity, I knew I was still going to need a radiator, especially when I decided to go bigger turbo and more power.

Note: The Octane FiST's are running stock cooling systems and get by with it even in the UT hot summer but just not going to be enough for many of us.

-------------

For those wanting to keep the stock bumper beam you could use a hole saw and drill round holes, slid in some thin wall tubing, perimeter weld, a row of those would flow a lot of air and still keep the beam strong, likely even stronger than stock. Better yet, angle grinder, make square or rectangular holes and use such tubing to flow even more air.

 

[mishimoto1]

Just ordered mine. Black, non-thermostatic. Living in Miami, I see 95+ degrees daily, with 99% humidity, for the entire year. Many would consider this a "very hot climate" so that's why I chose the non-thermostatic option.
And just an FYI, stock cooing fan programming is inadequate for performance use, whereas a stage 3 tune incorporates adjustments to duty cycle percentage and activation temperature. It seems likely that any decrease in radiator cooling efficiency from blocked airflow can be compensated for by adjusting these values, i.e. running a stage 3 tune.

Thanks for the order Merc! Assuming temperatures remain warm in the winter, you should be okay running the non-thermostatic setup. The oil will certainly warm-up a bit slower, so take it easy on the car for the first few miles.

Interesting information regarding the fan duty cycle!

Adjusting the cooling tables won't make that much of a difference in performance conditions. It does help a little, but I wouldn't consider it anything more than marginal and a temporary band-aid for someone that actually tries to push their vehicle even slightly over 'normal driving'.

Indeed...However, I would think bringing on duty cycle much earlier would help somewhat but its certainly not a fix particularly for those with track intentions!

Definitely nothing major. For the guy stuck in stop-and-go traffic or drag-step racing it's great, but that's about it.

Agreed! At-speed, this is going to make a minimal impact on actual cooling. The true fix for issues related to fluid temperature for the FIST involve a more efficient radiator, an auxiliary oil cooler, and improved airflow. Each of these items will improve temperatures and a combination of some (or all) should in theory solve all problems related to high track temperatures.

Once we have our radiator data collection complete, we should have a better idea of how this impacts overall cooling. It should also provide insight regarding the necessity for additional cooling modifications.

Thanks for the input guys. I will be the first to admit I don't know a whole lot about exactly how well this would work, but I was just trying to think of a way to try to help the maintain normal coolant temperatures when using the Mishimoto oil cooler since it blocks some airflow to the radiator. It is likely that coolant temperature increases with the Mishi oil cooler will be greater when running a stock tune as compared to a stage 1+ tune that has adjustments to the duty cycle. I don't expect coolant temperatures to rise dramatically with the Mishi oil cooler, and it would be even nicer to know that any changes in the rate at which the coolant temperature increases can be compensated for by adjusting duty cycle and temperature activation programming.
In other words, I am trying to ascertain: Do you think that the decrease in airflow to the radiator can be offset by reprogramming of the cooling fan settings?
My goal isn't so much to increase performance, as it is to maintain efficiency, which I am hoping we can accomplish.

Brainstorming is always a great way to solve a problem! Yes, our oil cooler is placed in the path of airflow and may have a minor impact on coolant temperatures. We have yet to conduct a comparison test of before/after in regards to coolant temperatures. This may be something we tackle during our radiator development which is currently underway.

One more thing to consider about a thermostat for the oil cooler, it will heat up the oil faster which is always important even in a hot climate. The only gain not using the thermostat would give is if it allowed a bit more flow. I always used one no matter where I have lived.
I also installed an oil cooler before I upgraded the radiator as no radiator was available at the time but I also notched the bumper beam and opened up the grill as well as molded ABS sheet to seal air flow to all the coolers and opened up the radiator support behind the IC which is pretty easy and effective as well.
With my mods including the Cyborg turbo I ran at the time I had zero heating issues going all out on two track days in a row but the air temps were in the 70's and low humidity, I knew I was still going to need a radiator, especially when I decided to go bigger turbo and more power.
Note: The Octane FiST's are running stock cooling systems and get by with it even in the UT hot summer but just not going to be enough for many of us.
-------------
For those wanting to keep the stock bumper beam you could use a hole saw and drill round holes, slid in some thin wall tubing, perimeter weld, a row of those would flow a lot of air and still keep the beam strong, likely even stronger than stock. Better yet, angle grinder, make square or rectangular holes and use such tubing to flow even more air.

Yes, the factory crash mean provides a massive surface area blocking airflow to the heat exchanger stack. Modifying this piece or replacing it with a smaller tube-style beam can make a big impact on heat transfer.

-John

 

[koozy]

intro video

[video=youtube_share;_U2rt_O_YyM]http://youtu.be/_U2rt_O_YyM[/video]

install video

[video=youtube_share;pSvEwQugFdA]http://youtu.be/pSvEwQugFdA[/video]

 

[BlueBomber]

Nice work team Mishi.

This, the Radiator and the Catch Can are ranked very high on my "to do" list for my car.

 

[mishimoto1]

intro video

install video

Thanks for linking our videos Koozy! Our pre-sale orders shipped out last week, everyone who joined should have tracking information at this time. We are really looking forward to your feedback once the kits arrive!

Thanks for all of the orders, we greatly appreciate it.

We will post up official release information soon!

Nice work team Mishi.

This, the Radiator and the Catch Can are ranked very high on my "to do" list for my car.

Thanks BlueBomber!

-John

 

[Jking]

Is there any way the thermostatic plate could fail to open?

 

[koozy]

I got call from Mishimoto last Friday afternoon that the oil cooler was shipping out and was surprised to receive it on Monday. Apparently they have a distribution location in Ontario, CA making it a quick delivery to Los Angeles instead of coming from Delaware.

The packaging is first rate, super thick box, everything neatly packaged and protected. Impressed with the amount of protection that went into oil cooler, incased in super thick dense foam and in it's own box. The thermostat sandwich adapter in it's own protective jewelry like packaging as well.

Components of the kit. The brackets are quality and sturdy with fine attention to details.

 

[mishimoto1]

Is there any way the thermostatic plate could fail to open?

We have had great success with our thermostatic sandwich plate, with no issues reported in terms of the actual internal thermostat failing. In the case that it does, this could result in a few different situations. If the spring fails, the thermostat is likely to remain open. This essentially means the sandwich plate will not close when fluid temperatures are cold. Performance will be similar as if a non-thermostatic plate was in place.

If the internal wax unit were to fail, the thermostat may fail in the closed position, meaning fluid would not reach the cooler. In this case, the engine would see temperatures similar (if not identical) to that of a vehicle not equipped with a cooler. In either case, oil pressure is retained and no ill effects should be a result. Like I noted previously, we have not encountered any failures with this particular component. If you do notice either of the concerns above, our customer service team would be more than happy to assist in allocating a replacement internal thermostat.

Thanks!
-John

I got call from Mishimoto last Friday afternoon that the oil cooler was shipping out and was surprised to receive it on Monday. Apparently they have a distribution location in Ontario, CA making it a quick delivery to Los Angeles instead of coming from Delaware.

The packaging is first rate, super thick box, everything neatly packaged and protected. Impressed with the amount of protection that went into oil cooler, incased in super thick dense foam and in it's own box. The thermostat sandwich adapter in it's own protective jewelry like packaging as well.

Components of the kit. The brackets are quality and sturdy with fine attention to details.

Great to hear the kit arrived already! Thank you for the initial review. Although our HQ is in DE, our primary warehouse is in CA. Looking forward to your feedback once the kit is installed!

Thanks for the order!
-John

 

[mishimoto1]

Thanks for all the pre-orders guys! Check out our official release information below!

Ford Fiesta ST Oil Cooler Kit, 2014+

Product Specs

• Direct-fit for the 2014+ Ford Fiesta ST
• Reduces oil temperatures by 35°F (19.5°C)
• Minimal pressure drop
• Application-specific mounting brackets
• Oil cooler location does not interfere with aftermarket air intakes
• Works with stock and most aftermarket intercooler kits
• Pre-made stainless steel braided oil lines with durable -AN fittings
• Billet aluminum oil sandwich plate
• Designed to easily bypass the stock liquid-to-liquid oil cooler
• 19-row stacked-plate oil cooler for optimal fluid temperature reduction
• Thermostatic and Non-thermostatic options available
• Cooler available in either Sleek Silver or Stealth Black
• Increases oil capacity by 0.65qt
• Mishimoto Lifetime Warranty

Features & Benefits Video
[video=youtube;_U2rt_O_YyM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_U2rt_O_YyM[/video]

Installation Video
[video=youtube;pSvEwQugFdA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSvEwQugFdA[/video]

Final Images

Feel free to follow up with any questions! We look forward to everyone's installed images and feedback!

Thanks
-John

 

[OEFvet11]

Got mine last night. Watched my UPS guy walking up my street and could spot the box a mile away. Packaging is a step above any other part I have ever bought. Loved the sand which getting its own luxury style watch box with clear top. Almost didn't feel like a car part. Installing this weekend. Great job on top notch packaging and protecting the parts form damage.

 

[mishimoto1]

Got mine last night. Watched my UPS guy walking up my street and could spot the box a mile away. Packaging is a step above any other part I have ever bought. Loved the sand which getting its own luxury style watch box with clear top. Almost didn't feel like a car part. Installing this weekend. Great job on top notch packaging and protecting the parts form damage.

Awesome, great to hear you were pleased with our packaging/presentation. We take great care in providing a little more of a purchasing experience compared to your typical auto part packaging. In addition, it allows us to spend time ensuring our components will not be damaged during shipment, we know how hard the transport process can be on packages.

I wonder what it's like being the UPS delivery driver stalked by Fiesta owners awaiting our new components.

Thanks!
-John

 

[koozy]

Hey John, a minor thing... but I was comparing the parts and hardware kit with the photos you have on your website because the kit doesn't have an item list. I thought I was missing a 6mm bolt and nut, but it appears your photo has 8 sets, when there should only be 7 sets. So the photo may not be an accurate description. Also the lock washer in that goes with the bracket (according to the photo) doesn't fit the 8mm bolts, they fit the 6mm bolts. Not sure where I'd have to use them on the 6mm bolts though since there's only 2 lock washers.

 

[mishimoto1]

Hey John, a minor thing... but I was comparing the parts and hardware kit with the photos you have on your website because the kit doesn't have an item list. I thought I was missing a 6mm bolt and nut, but it appears your photo has 8 sets, when there should only be 7 sets. So the photo may not be an accurate description. Also the lock washer in that goes with the bracket (according to the photo) doesn't fit the 8mm bolts, they fit the 6mm bolts. Not sure where I'd have to use them on the 6mm bolts though since there's only 2 lock washers.

Thanks for the feedback Koozy! Looks like you spotted a couple issues.

You are correct in regards to the image discrepancy. The kit includes seven 6mm bolts and two 8mm bolts. Looks like we accidentally threw an extra 6mm bolt into the image during photography. You've also pointed out that we've included the incorrect size lock washers with the kit. Our intention was to include two 8mm lock washers, however two 6mm lock washers were placed in the package. Not to worry, we are working to correct this and we are allocating the correct 8mm lock washers at the moment. For those who purchased a kit through our pre-sale, you have two options.

1. We can send over a pair of 8mm lock washers. Shoot us a PM with your order number and we will get them out ASAP.

2. Allocate 8mm lock washers at a local hardware store, any coated washer will do. If you would like to install our kit this weekend, a trip to the hardware store should be all that is needed to grab the correct washer, and the cost should be relatively low (less than .75)

We do apologize for the inconvenience. Feel free to shoot us a PM!

Looking forward to everyone's feedback!

-John

 

[Joszer]

Thanks for the feedback Koozy! Looks like you spotted a couple issues.

You are correct in regards to the image discrepancy. The kit includes seven 6mm bolts and two 8mm bolts. Looks like we accidentally through an extra 6mm bolt into the image during photography. You've also pointed out that we've included the incorrect size lock washers with the kit. Our intention was to include two 8mm lock washers, however two 6mm lock washers were placed in the package. Not to worry, we are working to correct this and we are allocating the correct 8mm lock washers at the moment. For those who purchased a kit through our pre-sale, you have two options.

1. We can send over a pair of 8mm lock washers. Shoot us a PM with your order number and we will get them out ASAP.

2. Allocate 8mm lock washers at a local hardware store, any coated washer will do. If you would like to install our kit this weekend, a trip to the hardware store should be all that is needed to grab the correct washer, and the cost should be relatively low (less than .75)

We do apologize for the inconvenience. Feel free to shoot us a PM!

Looking forward to everyone's feedback!

-John

I installed mine over the weekend and have had a few days of driving with one extreme sessions up in the canyons. I have observed about a 5-10 degree drop in oil temperatures at WOT. The hottest my oil got in the canyons while it was 70 degrees ambient was around 214 degrees. I remember seeing roughly about 225ish before the cooler was installed if I remember correctly. What I can say though is that the temperatures QUICKLY come down at idle. My coolant temperatures are also a lot cooler as well, this may be because the coolant is rerouted away from the stock oil cooler. Normally I would see that my coolant is consistently hotter than my oil, but now my oil runs a little hotter. I'll put this cooler to test next time I am at the track to really put it through its paces. I'll post another update on my 100 mile one way commute this weekend. If i remember right cruising at 75 mph I would see oil temps around 210ish before the cooler, I'll report my findings this weekend to see if they were improvement. [MENTION=1536]LeonardSkeonard[/MENTION] saw no improvements after the oil cooler install while commuting today as well, he posted oil temps of 210 and coolant of 193 going 72 mpg with cruise control on. Ambient temp was in the high 70's.

The install was straight forward, although I would recommend that the oil fittings be installed FIRST before bolting up the cooler to the brackets. Twisting the oil lines behind the crash bar was a huge PITA for me. I found it much easier to install the lines on the cooler while it was out of the car, then guiding the whole unit back in.

 

[mishimoto1]

I installed mine over the weekend and have had a few days of driving with one extreme sessions up in the canyons. I have observed about a 5-10 degree drop in oil temperatures at WOT. The hottest my oil got in the canyons while it was 70 degrees ambient was around 214 degrees. I remember seeing roughly about 225ish before the cooler was installed if I remember correctly. What I can say though is that the temperatures QUICKLY come down at idle. My coolant temperatures are also a lot cooler as well, this may be because the coolant is rerouted away from the stock oil cooler. Normally I would see that my coolant is consistently hotter than my oil, but now my oil runs a little hotter. I'll put this cooler to test next time I am at the track to really put it through its paces. I'll post another update on my 100 mile one way commute this weekend. If i remember right cruising at 75 mph I would see oil temps around 210ish before the cooler, I'll report my findings this weekend to see if they were improvement. [MENTION=1536]LeonardSkeonard[/MENTION] saw no improvements after the oil cooler install while commuting today as well, he posted oil temps of 210 and coolant of 193 going 72 mpg with cruise control on. Ambient temp was in the high 70's.

The install was straight forward, although I would recommend that the oil fittings be installed FIRST before bolting up the cooler to the brackets. Twisting the oil lines behind the crash bar was a huge PITA for me. I found it much easier to install the lines on the cooler while it was out of the car, then guiding the whole unit back in.

Awesome feedback Joszer, thank you very much for the detailed response. Great to hear your temperature results are positive, definitely looking forward to your track data.

We appreciate the note regarding the tip on fitting installation and line route as well. We may want to take another look at our guide to specify this particular method if it eases the process.

-John

 

[OEFvet11]

Installed mine today. I have a cut up crash beam which makes accessing the area easier but def can see people have trouble in that tight frontal area of a car getting the oil lines tighten onto the cooler. Also for people that have level's intercoolers, u can not used the supplied bolts with the kit or levels kit and must fit ones that allow the install properly. Lucky we have a bolt kit on hand but just a heads up that maybe having a removable but would make it easier than having the thread part some how a nut or removable so it's easier for people who not have a bolt kit on hand. So far car is def running cooler during very hard driving. Everythin fit like a glove so great job mishimoto.

 

[mishimoto1]

Installed mine today. I have a cut up crash beam which makes accessing the area easier but def can see people have trouble in that tight frontal area of a car getting the oil lines tighten onto the cooler. Also for people that have level's intercoolers, u can not used the supplied bolts with the kit or levels kit and must fit ones that allow the install properly. Lucky we have a bolt kit on hand but just a heads up that maybe having a removable but would make it easier than having the thread part some how a nut or removable so it's easier for people who not have a bolt kit on hand. So far car is def running cooler during very hard driving. Everythin fit like a glove so great job mishimoto.

Great to hear! Thanks for the feedback and tips for other users.

Enjoy the cooler.

-John

 

[koozy]

Finally got around to getting the oil cooler on. A couple of photos and notes.

- A nice kit and everything fit together well. The oil cooler mounted with the Mishimoto brackets looks like OE.

- Those without a front license plate can install this by only removing the passenger side headlamp, without having to remove the front bumper by only removing the front grill to gain access to mount the oil cooler and push the oil lines through.

- I installed the lines on to the oil cooler first, which negated the need to remove the lower diversion panel to allow tightening the lines on the cooler later. The lines are going towards the passenger side anyways whether they're locked down now or later.

- I spent most of my time trying to get the hoses in correct alignment and squeeze them through the hole behind the crash beam. It's a tight fit, especially for 2 hoses and their fittings.

- I trimmed the upper diversion panel to accommodate the hoses that now occupy some of it's space. There was no mention of this by Mishimoto. I'd rather have it on the car, than in a left over parts box so I trimmed it.

- Coolant temps are roughly ~10 deg F. cooler than oil temps now during casual drives with both oil and coolant hovering around 190deg F. at times on a 80deg F. day. Definitely notice the impact on coolant temps not getting as hot.

- I am reminded how much I hate working with coolant, especially while on your back and it becomes a slippery mess.

- I haven't had the chance to wring it out yet to test how much the cooler will affect temps when pushed especially in hot temps, but hopeful since oil cooling load is now taken away from the coolant.

Oil cooler mounted in place.

Oil lines behind the crash beam.

Oil lines routed behind the crash beam into the engine compartment and secured them to a hole on the crash beam.

Lines routed behind the AC line and wired tied to a hole on the radiator support.

Another angle of the hole on the radiator support looking straight up next to the right front wheel.

Oil cooler lines taking up some space where the upper diversion panel used to be.

Upper diversion panel trimmed to accommodate oil lines.

Everything buttoned up.

 

[mercdank]

Which sandwich plate are you using?